A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. South-Western Boulders 36 routes in Sector

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.797606, -30.602505

Description:

The cluster of boulders on the western ridge

Access Issues: inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs) This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right until it comes to a turning circle/parking area at the beginning of the walking track. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the second car park referred to in the rest of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. This is the old ‘Car Park’. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the first car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).

Ethic: inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

1.1. Tank Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797917, -30.600923

Description:

Only 15m from the second car park, next to a green water tank that feeds the picnic area taps. It is a large boulder split in two.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Suzeranity

Tall mans start up rail, then hard long move left to link into other rail.

V9Boulder 5m
2 ** Hard arete

Arete to left of crack

V4Boulder 5m
3 *** Project

The arete on the right of the crack

Boulder Project 3m
4 * Easy peasy

Try it with no hands!

V0Boulder 2m
5 Arete

Thinner and crimpier

V3Boulder 2m
6 * Tank face

Thin and crimpy

V2Boulder 2m
7 * Layback

Sweet layback problem

V0Boulder 2m
8 * Just the arete

Good but contrived

V2Boulder 2m
9 * Tank Chimney

Walk/squeeze into the Tank crack and chimney out top from the middle.

V0Boulder 4m

1.2. Crack Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797551, -30.601388

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Old school

Layback the crack

V2Boulder
2 *** The crack

Sit down start, sweet moves using only the right side of the crack and stay on the face at the top.

V3Boulder 4m
3 *** Ikarus / Icarus

I know this thing goes at V11, and i'm pretty sure fred nicole did it when he was over here. I know the holds at the top are very small... Confirmation of these details would be great.

FA: Fred Nicole, 2000

V11Boulder 5m

1.3. Hilltop Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797807, -30.601661

Description:

At the top of the hill, just south of the crack boulder you will find this boulder with a few short crimpy problems on the south face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1

Crimps up the left side of boulder.

V0Boulder 3m
2 2

Up the centre line of crimps.

V1Boulder 3m
3 3

Up the right line of crimps.

V1Boulder 3m
4 Mantel as Anything

Sit start both hands on jug and mantel up onto it, then to top.

V1Boulder 3m

1.4. Sloper Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797615, -30.602195

Description:

Near the top of the hill, just south of the Crack Boulder you will find this low boulder with a sweet sloper traverse along the north side of boulder. Open handed goodness!!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Sloper traverse

Start far left practically lying on the ground and slap all the way around the the juggy mantle

V2Boulder 1m
2 Directly V1Boulder 2m

1.5. Flake Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.798052, -30.601944

Description:

On the uphill side of the boulder and on top is a large scar where a very large thin flake has been removed and is now sitting on the ground. Below the flake scar is some thin right facing sidepulls and lower and to the left are some small edges and thin feet.

Approach:

Located mid slope between the Sloper Boulder and the Quickdraw Boulder.

History:

More than likely some problems have been done on this prior to 2005, or someone just wanted to pull the loose flakes off this boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Unknown

Sit start low on uphill side of boulder on the good edge for right hand. Pull up with right hand (or try matching) to good edge, then up to sloper on arete, to the nice crimp facing the wrong way, up to the bottom of the flake scar and mantel to top out.

FA: Alan Ezzy

V6Boulder 4m
2 Project Boulder Project

1.6. Quickdraw Area 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.798021, -30.602343

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Quickdraw roof

Start low on left, heel hook your way up and right under roof, the up and mantle.

V4Boulder 3m
2 *** Quickdraw roof extension

As for the other problem but instead of going up over lip, continue right in crack, then up to top past the lip.

Not sure if it has been done.

V6Boulder 3m
3 Quickdraw Low Traverse

As for the regular traverse, but instead of going to high slopes above start holds, go further left onto small crimps, then drop down onto good edge further left and stay a bit lower than the regular traverse.

Note: noticed on 10-Nov-2010 that one of the small crimps has broken off, so it could be a lot harder now (Ben V*t to blame?)

V4Boulder 2m
4 *** Quickdraw traverse

SDS the traverse left and top out. Various finishes, the longer the harder

V2Boulder 3m
5 Quickdraw direct

SDS and straight up

V0Boulder 1m
6 thing

Sit start with both hands on on the right jug of Quickdraw Direct, pull up and slap, then slap again to sloper and mantel. Hint: get your right foot high and right.

V2Boulder 1m
7 ** Gymnastic

Juggy but awkward

V2Boulder 1m
8 One slap

Easy slap then side mantle and up

V1Boulder 1m
9 Full Traverse

Start as for Gymnastic and traverse left to the start hold of Thing and keep going left low and make long move left to seem then finish up on the big easy slopers. Probably been done before.

FA: Unknown

V7Boulder 2m

1.7. Three Crack Boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797598, -30.602508

Description:

Large boulder with three obvious cracks in it, that is home to a handful of good easy warm-up problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tree Crack

Start in the crack on the left side of boulder with the thin little tree growing in it at half height. Climb crack not using the tree.

V2Boulder 5m
2 Right of Tree

Start half a metre right of the crack with the tree in it. Up thin crimps to join the horizontal crack above. It is a elimination variation so try and not to use the crack to your left.

V2Boulder 5m
3 Unknown

Just left of the finger crack is a micro right facing corner. Start there and go to nice edge then mantel and finish as for the finger crack.

V2Boulder 5m
4 Finger Crack

the obvious finger crack that goes up then left across slab to another crack and up. Good fun.

V0Boulder 5m
5 Unknown Var.

Start to the right of the finger crack and without using it, proceed up the very thin slab.

V2Boulder 4m

1.8. Two Cracks Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.797056, -30.602376

Description:

10m west of Three crack Boulder. When you top out on any of the Three Crack Problems and look straight ahead you will see this boulder just up hill. The large hand crack is obvious.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Hand Crack

Climb the obvious hand crack on the east face of boulder.

V0Boulder 5m
2 Thin Crack

On the north face of the boulder is right leading thin crack. Climb the face starting at the bottom third of crack. Good crimps.

V0Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 * Easy peasy Boulder 2m 1.1. Tank Boulder
* Layback Boulder 2m 1.1. Tank Boulder
* Tank Chimney Boulder 4m 1.1. Tank Boulder
1 Boulder 3m 1.3. Hilltop Boulder
Quickdraw direct Boulder 1m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
Finger Crack Boulder 5m 1.7. Three Crack Boulder
** Hand Crack Boulder 5m 1.8. Two Cracks Boulder
Thin Crack Boulder 4m 1.8. Two Cracks Boulder
V1 2 Boulder 3m 1.3. Hilltop Boulder
3 Boulder 3m 1.3. Hilltop Boulder
Mantel as Anything Boulder 3m 1.3. Hilltop Boulder
Directly Boulder 2m 1.4. Sloper Boulder
One slap Boulder 1m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
V2 * Just the arete Boulder 2m 1.1. Tank Boulder
* Tank face Boulder 2m 1.1. Tank Boulder
* Old school Boulder 1.2. Crack Boulder
*** Sloper traverse Boulder 1m 1.4. Sloper Boulder
** Gymnastic Boulder 1m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
*** Quickdraw traverse Boulder 3m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
thing Boulder 1m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
Right of Tree Boulder 5m 1.7. Three Crack Boulder
Tree Crack Boulder 5m 1.7. Three Crack Boulder
Unknown Boulder 5m 1.7. Three Crack Boulder
Unknown Var. Boulder 4m 1.7. Three Crack Boulder
V3 Arete Boulder 2m 1.1. Tank Boulder
*** The crack Boulder 4m 1.2. Crack Boulder
V4 ** Hard arete Boulder 5m 1.1. Tank Boulder
Quickdraw Low Traverse Boulder 2m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
*** Quickdraw roof Boulder 3m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
V6 ** Unknown Boulder 4m 1.5. Flake Boulder
*** Quickdraw roof extension Boulder 3m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
V7 Full Traverse Boulder 2m 1.6. Quickdraw Area
V9 * Suzeranity Boulder 5m 1.1. Tank Boulder
V11 *** Ikarus Boulder 5m 1.2. Crack Boulder
*** Project Boulder Project 3m 1.1. Tank Boulder
? Project Boulder Project 1.5. Flake Boulder