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Table of contents

1. Central climbing areas 96 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.803969, -30.598818

Description:

A cluster of climbing cliffs within a few hundred meters of the car park.

Access Issues: inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs) This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right until it comes to a turning circle/parking area at the beginning of the walking track. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the second car park referred to in the rest of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. This is the old ‘Car Park’. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the first car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).

Approach:

Most of the central climbing areas are best approached from the south side. From the second car park walk east along the ridge, either along the single track or along the old faint dual track for about 500m until you get to a big turning circle. Then follow the main track norh east down into the gorge. From here you can drop down into 'Hope Buttress' and 'Savage Amusement Buttress' on your left, or get to the top of 'Road block' further down, or hike down the steep track to get to most of the other cliffs like 'Shooting Star Buttress'.

Ethic: inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

1.1. Car Park Boulder 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.804520, -30.599614

Approach:

Approximately 40 m from the old car park, just to the right of the main walking track is a large boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spare Parts

Start: As for Pink Freud. Looks harder than 16 and probably is!

Up as for Pink Freud, left across wall using crack, step up and climb slabby arête.

FA: M. Peck, M. Larkin, 1982

16Trad 10m
2 Pink Freud

Start: 2m left of Fugue State

Up crack.

FA: B. Birchall (solo), 1976

8Trad 10m
3 Fugue State

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, E. Sharpe, G. Pritchard, 1981

17Trad 10m
4 The Golden Legion of Cleaning Women

Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud.

FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982

10Trad 15m

1.2. Hope Buttress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.803352, -30.599204

Approach:

This is the first cliff you see as you approach the gorge (north from the car-park). The buttress is split by two sharp, clean cracks. The following climbs are described from right to left as you face the cliff.

Descent Notes:©

Walk off to the left (facing the cliff) and down some big steps, right next to where "Fury" starts.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fury

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Ball and party, the fine crack, 1986

FA: T. Gynther, A. Stephens, the roof, 1988

22Trad 8m
2 Nirvana on Tap

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

FA: E. Sharpe, B. Birchall, 1980

10Trad 7m
3 Yuppie

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, 1988

17Mixed 18m, 2
4 Reunion

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

FA: B. Birchall, P. Prior, 1976

14Trad 18m
5 Reunion Alternate Finish

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

FA: P. Bayne, J. Lattanzio, 1982

16Trad 20m
6 Anticipation

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, A. Legler, 1980

18Trad 20m
7 * Hope

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

FA: R. Dixon, B. Birchall, 1975

16Trad 25m
8 Expiry Date

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

FA: G. Pritchard, J. Lattanzio, P. Butler, 1982

12Trad 10m
9 * Charity

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

FA: R. Dixon, B. Birchall, 1975

14Trad 20m
10 Faith

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, 1988

21Mixed 20m, 2

1.3. Wired World of Sport Buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.803495, -30.599271

Approach:

Opposite Hope Buttress is an obscure buttress next to a large dead tree. You pass the buttress as you walk in to Hope Buttress. It is on your left hand side facing Hope Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wired World of Sport

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the bolt, then move up (crux) to the next BR. Mantle over the bulge, then up final crack to the top. 2 BR belay.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, 1988

21Mixed 10m, 2

1.4. Y's Move Boulder 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.803401, -30.599060

Approach:

In the gully behind Hope Buttress is a large boulder split by an obvious crack. This is Y’s Move.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Y's Move

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, G. Pritchard, 1980

13Trad 8m

1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.804052, -30.598845

Approach:

Downstream from Hope Buttress and Y’s Move is a higher, overhanging cliff. This is the Savage Amusement Buttress. The climbs are described in this section from upstream to downstream. One route exists on the back of this buttress. It is Poetic Justice.

Descent Notes:

From the top of 'Savage Amusement' walk over the back to an easy descent gully just next to 'Poetic Justice'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Poetic Justice

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

FFA: M. Colyvan, A. Stephens

21Mixed 10m, 1
2 Bootleg

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

FA: Colyvan, Sharpe

20Trad 15m
3 ** Savage Amusement

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux. From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux).

FA: B. Birchall, J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, P. Bayne

22Trad 15m
4 Picnic at Hanging Rock

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles. Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish.

FA: G. Stewart

FFA: A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, 1989

25Mixed 10m, 3
5 Unknown / project?

Little slopers, could also be a direct start to 'Picnic at Hanging Rock'

V2 to V5Boulder
6 *** Broke Back Bottle / No Name yet

At the end of SA Buttress and just before Inertia is a cave made by a boulder stacked on two other boulders. To get to inertia, you must scramble down into the entrance to the little cave these boulders create.

Sit start under the cave on a large slopey pinch and head directly out the cave on sharp crimps to a slopey mantel top out.

FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

V5Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Inertia

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio

22Sport 10m

1.6. Psychosomatic Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.804270, -30.598700

Approach:

Further downstream from Inertia, approximately 50 m, is a short, steep wall with a Casuarina tree at the right hand end. The thin crack up this wall is 'Psychosomatic'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tongue Tied & Twisted

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

FA: A. Stephens

23Mixed 15m, 2
2 ** Psychosomatic

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, A. Stephens

23Trad 15m

1.7. Illusion Buttress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.804479, -30.598653

Approach:

Downstream from Savage Amusement Buttress and past Psychosomatic is the Illusion Buttress, a concentrated crag situated near the juction of the main watercourse and a side stream/ gully that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from upstream to downstream.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leaving on your Mind

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

FA: M. Colyvan, Anita Gordon, Tony Pople, 1989

21Mixed 20m, 4
2 Don't Get Cute

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, G. Bradbury

21Mixed 18m, 1
3 Layabout Variant

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

FA: E. Sharpe, G. Croft

14Trad 25m
4 ** Layabout

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

FA: B. Birchall

17Trad 25m
5 *** Layabout/Going Steady Connection

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.

18Mixed 18m, 1
6 Going Steady

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, B. Birchall,

19Mixed 15m, 1
7 Illusion

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

FA: B. Birchall, P. Prior

13Trad 15m
8 And So It Goes

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall

15Trad 20m
9 * Heavy Metal

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

FA: A. Stephens, E. Sharpe

19Sport 18m, 4
10 Heavy Metal - Direct Start

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

FA: A. Stephens

20Sport 18m, 4

1.8. Roadblock Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.804565, -30.599213

Description:©

Just behind Mad Woman’s Breakfast, near the end of the descent track is a dry water course. The prominent feature of this area is the wasp wall. Just to the right of the wasp wall, upstream from the wall, is the first route in this area, Roadblock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roadblock

Start: A short overhanging wall that eases to a slab. One BR.

Strenuously through the little overhang, then a rising rightward traverse past a BR to belay. Walk off. Protection is difficult to place on the traverse.

FA: P. Bayne, A. Stephens, G. Croft, 1982

20Mixed 15m, 1
2 Another One Bites the Dust

Start: Approximately 6m right of Roadblock.

A wall/corner with an off-width finish. Not a good route.

Up over horizontal jam cracks, then diagonally right to ledge. Either belay or continue up offwidth on right to top. Take a large tube or better still, don’t do it.

FA: J. Friend, G. Croft, 1982

20Trad 26m
3 Jail Bait

Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust.

Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack.

FA: J. Lattanzio, G. Pritchard, 1981

14Trad 30m
4 All the Young Punks

Start: The arête right of Jail Bait.

Up arête, finish as for Jail Bait.

FA: E. Sharpe, M. Peck, T. Balla, 1982

15Trad 25m
5 project

hasnt been freed yet, matt rizzuto was bloody close

FA: Gordon Low

27Unknown Project 12m

1.9. Roadblock - Upper Tier 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.804570, -30.599298

Description:©

Just after the descent track turns into what could be better described as a gravel slippery-dip, veer left and traverse to the large blocks .Walk through the tunnel to get to the start of the routes. You are now directly above Roadblock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Piglet

Start: The edge of the Chimney/Passageway.

Layback the chimney and on up to top.

FA: B. Cork (solo), 1994

8Trad 10m
2 Hardly Worth the Swine

Start: The diagonal seam to the right of the passageway as you walk out.

Follow the seam out to the arête, then up the arête to the top.

FA: C. Colmer, B. Cork, F. Hagan & T. Hill, 1994

9Trad 10m
3 Swinebeater

Start: the first route on the wall as you come out of the passage.

Up the wall passing a bolt then up cracks to top.

FA: B. Cork, C. Colmer & K. Mc Alpin, 1994

15Mixed 10m, 1
4 Bovine

Start: The arête left of S.B.

Up arête/wall past two bolts and some natural protection to the top. Belay off tree further back.

FA: B. Cork, C. Colmer, 1994

17Mixed 12m, 2

1.10. Shooting Star Block 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.804961, -30.598496

Description:

Across the river from the Illusion buttress and slightly downstream is an overhanging wall of smooth compact rock with a veritable matrix of routes on it. The wall faces south and is an excellent place to hang out on hot summer days. Routes are described from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shooting Star

The juggy wall. A pleasant easy climb. Up wall, trending left to start, then back right to finish. #4 Friend belay.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, B. Birchall,

13Trad 10m
2 Joys of the Flesh

Just right of the small shrub, 3m right of S.S. Up through the bulge and onward to exit up shallow dihedral. Three bolts in total. Double- bolt belay.

22Sport 8m, 3
3 Rodney’s Garibaldi Metwurst

Originally a very dangerous route with the possibility of decking at the crux. Has since been rebolted to satisfy the trembling hordes. An absolute bum-stinger! Start: As for Sweet Surrender. Directly up from first bolt on S.S. then trending left from second bolt to third then up (fourth bolt) to exit up groove. Double-bolt belay.

FA: B. Christian

26Sport 8m, 4
4 *** Sweet surrender

Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. 2 BR belay directly after lip.

FA: Gordon Low, 1995

24Sport 12m, 4
5 Hitman

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

FA: Andreas Audetat

29Sport 10m, 4
6 Trapeze

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

23Sport 15m, 5
7 Max

A power-endurance fest. Start: As for L.A. - clip first bolt from the block. Pump up to the jug on Trapeze then reverse this to the second bolt on R.G.M. Finish as for this route.

FA: Andreas Audetat

28Sport 15m, 2
8 Super-Max

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

FA: Andreas Audetat

29Sport 18m
9 Low flying Angle

An easy tick if you are short. Start: The large flake roof at the extreme right- hand end of the buttress. Lean off the block to clip the first bolt then step back under roof. Swing out to letterbox then flip up onto the slab and continue on past another bolt. Double-bolt belay

FA: S. Clelland, A. Stephens

21Mixed 8m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

If you scramble downstream and uphill slightly, facing downstream, you'll find a small cave area with a couple boulder problems so far. There is scope for a bunch more hard problems here.

10 *** Shooting star cave

Downstream and uphill (north) about 30m away is a small bouldering cave with one wicked hard project.

Hard full stretch gaston through horizontal roof then onto face and up.

Boulder Project
11 *** Delaminate / TBA

Five metres to the right of Shooting Star Cave and downhill is another cave created by boulders stacked on top of each other.

Sit start at the back of cave on obvious roof with a nice arete on the right. A right toe-hook on the arete and a left heel hook under the roof will get you off the ground without using the boulder at the end of the cave. Slap your right hand along the arete and use sidepull and undercling with your left. Follow the roof arete up into the chimney where it ends.

FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012

V7 to V8Boulder 3m

1.11. Thick as Thieves Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.803637, -30.598083

Description:

From Illusion Buttress walk upstream in the main Gara River gully, possible when the river is low. Otherwise from the upstream end of Hope Buttress, walk/scramble straight across, past a small gully, then on the the main water course. The most obvious features are the Private Sector Wall, and the overhanging black corner, “Thick as Thieves”. As you approach from Illusion Buttress the first route you come across is Tipitina on the opposite side of the river to T.A.T

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tipitina

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

FA: M. Peck, A. Stephens

9Trad 15m
2 Fingertip Control

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Peck

19Sport 15m
3 Prana

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

FA: B. Christian

26Mixed 10m, 4
4 Thick as Thieves

An overhanging, black, corner. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, J. Lattanzio

21Trad 15m
5 Smear Tactics

4m downstream from Thick As Thieves, the thin crack near the end of the buttress. Up over bulge to the crack/corner. Up this and step right onto ledge.

FA: P. Bayne, SUTF

19Trad 15m

1.12. Private sector 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.803267, -30.597990

Description:©

Further upstream about 30m is a wall that runs Northsouth (i.e. perpendicular to the river). This is The Private Sector. Routes are from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pluck a Duck

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

FA: A. Stephens,B. Christian, 1994

12Sport 7m, 3
2 Pluck a Duck Direct

Directly up through bulge left of bush.

FA: G. Low, 1995

16Sport 7m, 3
3 Trajectory

Route no longer exists. See Trajectory direct.

FA: Jack Latanzio, 1982

18Sport 10m
4 * Trajectory Direct

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

23Mixed 10m, 2
5 ** Yoda

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

FA: A. Stephens, 1994

24Sport 10m, 3
6 Elevator

Start 5m right of Trajectory.

Up staircase blocks to top.

FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982

3Trad 7m
7 Wild Dog

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Peck, 1982

14Trad 10m
8 Ninja

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past break (wires) past one BR to top.

FA: B. Christian, 1994

22Mixed 10m, 1
9 Slackers and Robbers

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two BR’s plus wires.

Straight up thin crack, then past two BR’s and up to belay block. Belay #2 and #3 Friends.

FA: P. Bayne (self belay), 1982

22Mixed 10m, 2
10 The Hot Pearl Snatch

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers. One BR is the only protection. The hardest climb at Gara Boulders to date.

Clip the bolt, then up to the easier corner above, then easier to top.

FA: G. Robertson,SUTF, 1986

26Sport 10m, 1
11 Crawling King Snake Blues

Start: As for Private Sector (slightly left).

Up past 3 BR’s to top.

FA: B. Christian, 1994

24Sport 12m, 3
12 The Private Sector

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One BR is the only protection. #2 and #3 Friend belay.

Up wall to BR, then right and up to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, 1982

22Mixed 12m, 1
13 * Mental Reggresion

Start: Block wedged down right from Private Sector.

Up wall above water into thin seam to top. Small TCVs and RPs for PR9. Friend belay.

FA: G.Low,P.Hill,T.Hill, 1994

15Trad 8m
14 Mositened Bint

Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can only be done when river is down - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood.

Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay.

FA: B. Cork, 1996

20Mixed 7m, 3

1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.803551, -30.597766

Description:

Above the Thick as Thieves wall is a large boulder. This is the Schoolgirl Boulder. There are also a few nice squeezes through and under the boulder. Routes described from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Shane's Wall

Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts.

FA: Some Bloke

23Sport 8m
2 Toby's Corner

The corner crack 2m right of SW. Stem and Jamb up the corner. Belay on top of block in cracks.

FA: Toby Waters, Jeff Gracie

19Trad 10m
3 Funky Homo Aretus

The arete right of S.W. Delicately up the left side of the arête past two bolts and a #2 Friend. Friend Belay.

FA: T. Hill, S. Clelland

21Sport 10m
4 Svea

Pleasant and technical for the grade. Start: Right of F.H.A. Up the wall past two bolts and some pro. to belay in breaks at top.

FA: J. Gracie, G. Low

16Trad 10m
5 Good Morning Little School Girl

The wall on the boulder. Up the wall and hand crack to top.

FA: M. Peck, P. Colyvan

17Trad 9m
6 I'll Go Slops

3m right of Good Morning Little School Girl. Supposedly better than it looks. Up staircase to ledge, hand-traverse left to hand-crack to top.

FA: P. Colyvan, M. Peck

17Trad 12m
7 Unknown arete

No details known. Hardish looking arete with one high rusty hanger. Probably needs another bolt. Probably some ancient project.

Sport 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 School girl roof

Walk east, around the contour for 20m there is a small bouldering cave with one project.

Aggressive hand / finger jam through roof. Might need some earth works to finish out onto face.

FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2013

V8Boulder Project 4m

1.14. The Dunderclump Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:©

About 200m upstream from the Schoolgirl Boulder and just off the walking track is a south facing buttress. This is the Dunderclump Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gumblecar and the Asocial Scrotum

Start: Under sickle-shaped under cling in the middle of the wall.

Up under cling, then directly up to hollow flake. Finish straight up.

FA: J. Gracie, H. Fridberg, 1996

17Trad 8m
2 Happy Music

Start: At base of arête 2m left of G.A.S.

Up arête tending right onto slab and gear placements. Directly up groove to top. R.P.’s and small cams.

FA: J. Gracie, H. Fridberg, 1996

18Trad 8m

1.15. Mad Woman's Breakfast Area 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.804966, -30.599014

Description:©

To get to this area from the car park, follow the track down to the gorge edge, then down the steep gravelly track to the gorge floor. Where the track ends, just upstream is an isolated boulder with a wide crack on the upstream side. This is Mad Woman’s Breakfast.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

V8 to V10Boulder 2m
2 Mad Woman's Breakfast

Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top.

Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend.

FA: A. Stephens, SUTF, 1981

20Trad 10m

1.16. Black Dog Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.804937, -30.598957

Description:©

20m upstream from Mad Womans Breakfast is a North-facing orange wall with one route to date. This is Black Dog.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Dog

Painfully thin and technical. Use double ropes, as the third bolt could be an ankle-breaker. Up trending right past four bolts to chain.

FA: B. Christian, 1995

25Sport 10m, 4
2 * TBA

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall. Start on the rounded arete on the far left of boulder, and traverse up and right on nice features to a mantel top out.

V1Boulder 3m
3 Unknown

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.

V7Boulder Project 3m

1.17. Motorhead Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.805420, -30.598892

Description:©

This is a small buttress across from and slightly downstream of Mad Woman’s Breakfast. It is across the water course. The buttress is split by a thin crack with a roof at half height. This crack, due to its obscurity and it’s ability to spit off all comers, had gained quite a reputation until finally dispatched by Matt Rizzuto.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Motorhead Madness

Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack.

Up corner crack to top.

FA: B. Haliburton, N. Crabb, 1988

10Trad 8m
2 Motor Mania

Start: As for Motorhead Madness.

Up corner as for Motorhead Madness, then onto ledge. Up flake, then arête to top.

FA: B. Haliburton, N. Crabb, 1988

14Trad 13m
3 Paper, Scissors, Rock

It’s all over if you can hang in there for the first 7m.

Start: The thin crack.

Through the roof and up the crack on tenuous locks until a tricky move puts you on the ledge. Left, then up the short crack.

FA: M. Rizzuto, G. Low

25Trad 13m

1.18. Swimming Hole Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.805255, -30.599560

Description:©

50m down from the Mad Woman’s Breakfast Boulder is a large swimming hole. The cliff (obviously) is on the right side (facing downstream) of the river. Easiest access from the car-park is straight down the track, down the sandy goat-track, turn right at the bottom and your there. Routes described from right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Welcome to Machine

Start: Details are vague but this route is believed to start in the gully on the upstream side of the buttress.

Up obvious crack to ledge, then up right-trending crack to top.

FA: B. Haliburton, S. Johnson, 1988

15Trad 15m
2 Green Peas

Start: 10m down right from W.t.M.

Up obvious flake to top.

FA: B. Haliburton, S Johnson, 1988

14Trad 5m
3 Careful He Might Hear You

Start: The very obvious horizontal line that traverses the length of the buttress.

Quite a classic, that is undeservedly rarely climbed due to it’s obscurity. Traverse left along obvious horizontal roof crack until a few powerful moves put you on a good ledge. Continue left and down a few moves to belay at water level.

FA: B. Haliburton, K. Shultz, 1988

17Trad 20m
4 Someone's done it before...

Wandering line following path of least resistance to top. Start towards the left end of the cliff. Escape through the tree on the right at the top, going left up the face would be harder but more rewarding.

15Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Elevator Trad 7m 1.12. Private sector
8 Pink Freud Trad 10m 1.1. Car Park Boulder
Piglet Trad 10m 1.9. Roadblock - Upper Tier
9 Hardly Worth the Swine Trad 10m 1.9. Roadblock - Upper Tier
Tipitina Trad 15m 1.11. Thick as Thieves Area
10 The Golden Legion of Cleaning Women Trad 15m 1.1. Car Park Boulder
Nirvana on Tap Trad 7m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Motorhead Madness Trad 8m 1.17. Motorhead Buttress
12 Expiry Date Trad 10m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Pluck a Duck Sport 7m, 3 1.12. Private sector
13 Y's Move Trad 8m 1.4. Y's Move Boulder
Illusion Trad 15m 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Shooting Star Trad 10m 1.10. Shooting Star Block
14 * Charity Trad 20m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Reunion Trad 18m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Layabout Variant Trad 25m 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Jail Bait Trad 30m 1.8. Roadblock Area
Wild Dog Trad 10m 1.12. Private sector
Motor Mania Trad 13m 1.17. Motorhead Buttress
Green Peas Trad 5m 1.18. Swimming Hole Buttress
15 And So It Goes Trad 20m 1.7. Illusion Buttress
All the Young Punks Trad 25m 1.8. Roadblock Area
Swinebeater Mixed 10m, 1 1.9. Roadblock - Upper Tier
* Mental Reggresion Trad 8m 1.12. Private sector
Someone's done it before... Trad 30m 1.18. Swimming Hole Buttress
Welcome to Machine Trad 15m 1.18. Swimming Hole Buttress
16 Spare Parts Trad 10m 1.1. Car Park Boulder
* Hope Trad 25m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Reunion Alternate Finish Trad 20m 1.2. Hope Buttress
Pluck a Duck Direct Sport 7m, 3 1.12. Private sector
Svea Trad 10m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
17 Fugue State Trad 10m 1.1. Car Park Boulder
Yuppie Mixed 18m, 2 1.2. Hope Buttress
** Layabout Trad 25m 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Bovine Mixed 12m, 2 1.9. Roadblock - Upper Tier
Good Morning Little School Girl Trad 9m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
I'll Go Slops Trad 12m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
* Gumblecar and the Asocial Scrotum Trad 8m 1.14. The Dunderclump Buttress
Careful He Might Hear You Trad 20m 1.18. Swimming Hole Buttress
18 Anticipation Trad 20m 1.2. Hope Buttress
*** Layabout/Going Steady Connection Mixed 18m, 1 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Trajectory Sport 10m 1.12. Private sector
Happy Music Trad 8m 1.14. The Dunderclump Buttress
19 Going Steady Mixed 15m, 1 1.7. Illusion Buttress
* Heavy Metal Sport 18m, 4 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Fingertip Control Sport 15m 1.11. Thick as Thieves Area
Smear Tactics Trad 15m 1.11. Thick as Thieves Area
Toby's Corner Trad 10m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
V1 * TBA Boulder 3m 1.16. Black Dog Wall
20 Bootleg Trad 15m 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
Heavy Metal - Direct Start Sport 18m, 4 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Another One Bites the Dust Trad 26m 1.8. Roadblock Area
Roadblock Mixed 15m, 1 1.8. Roadblock Area
Mositened Bint Mixed 7m, 3 1.12. Private sector
Mad Woman's Breakfast Trad 10m 1.15. Mad Woman's Breakfast Area
21 Faith Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. Hope Buttress
Wired World of Sport Mixed 10m, 2 1.3. Wired World of Sport Buttress
Poetic Justice Mixed 10m, 1 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
Don't Get Cute Mixed 18m, 1 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Leaving on your Mind Mixed 20m, 4 1.7. Illusion Buttress
Low flying Angle Mixed 8m, 2 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Thick as Thieves Trad 15m 1.11. Thick as Thieves Area
Funky Homo Aretus Sport 10m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
22 Fury Trad 8m 1.2. Hope Buttress
** Inertia Sport 10m 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
** Savage Amusement Trad 15m 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
Joys of the Flesh Sport 8m, 3 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Ninja Mixed 10m, 1 1.12. Private sector
Slackers and Robbers Mixed 10m, 2 1.12. Private sector
The Private Sector Mixed 12m, 1 1.12. Private sector
23 ** Psychosomatic Trad 15m 1.6. Psychosomatic Wall
Tongue Tied & Twisted Mixed 15m, 2 1.6. Psychosomatic Wall
Trapeze Sport 15m, 5 1.10. Shooting Star Block
* Trajectory Direct Mixed 10m, 2 1.12. Private sector
* Shane's Wall Sport 8m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
24 *** Sweet surrender Sport 12m, 4 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Crawling King Snake Blues Sport 12m, 3 1.12. Private sector
** Yoda Sport 10m, 3 1.12. Private sector
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock Mixed 10m, 3 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
Black Dog Sport 10m, 4 1.16. Black Dog Wall
Paper, Scissors, Rock Trad 13m 1.17. Motorhead Buttress
V2 to V5 Unknown / project? Boulder 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
V5 *** Broke Back Bottle Boulder 2m 1.5. Savage Amusement Buttress
26 Rodney’s Garibaldi Metwurst Sport 8m, 4 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Prana Mixed 10m, 4 1.11. Thick as Thieves Area
The Hot Pearl Snatch Sport 10m, 1 1.12. Private sector
27 project Unknown Project 12m 1.8. Roadblock Area
V7 Unknown Boulder Project 3m 1.16. Black Dog Wall
28 Max Sport 15m, 2 1.10. Shooting Star Block
29 Hitman Sport 10m, 4 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Super-Max Sport 18m 1.10. Shooting Star Block
V7 to V8 *** Delaminate Boulder 3m 1.10. Shooting Star Block
V8 School girl roof Boulder Project 4m 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder
V8 to V10 Project Boulder 2m 1.15. Mad Woman's Breakfast Area
? *** Shooting star cave Boulder Project 1.10. Shooting Star Block
Unknown arete Sport 1 1.13. The Schoolgirl Boulder