Topo #10880

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Area Type
? Savage Amusement Buttress

Downstream from Hope Buttress and Y’s Move is a higher, overhanging cliff. This is the Savage Amusement Buttress. The climbs are described in this section from upstream to downstream. One route exists on the back of this buttress. It is Poetic Justice.

Cliff Unlink area
? Psychosomatic Wall

Further downstream from Inertia, approximately 50 m, is a short, steep wall with a Casuarina tree at the right hand end. The thin crack up this wall is 'Psychosomatic'.

Cliff Unlink area
? Illusion Buttress

Downstream from Savage Amusement Buttress and past Psychosomatic is the Illusion Buttress, a concentrated crag situated near the juction of the main watercourse and a side stream/ gully that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from upstream to downstream.

Cliff Unlink area
? Shooting Star Block

Across the river from the Illusion buttress and slightly downstream is an overhanging wall of smooth compact rock with a veritable matrix of routes on it. The wall faces south and is an excellent place to hang out on hot summer days. Routes are described from left to right.

Cliff Unlink area
? Black Dog Wall

20m upstream from Mad Womans Breakfast is a North-facing orange wall with one route to date. This is Black Dog.

Cliff Unlink area

Topo #2031

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Tongue Tied & Twisted

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!) Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

23 Mixed 15m, 2 Unlink route
2 ** Psychosomatic

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

23 Trad 15m Unlink route

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