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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs) This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right until it comes to a turning circle/parking area at the beginning of the walking track. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the second car park referred to in the rest of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. This is the old ‘Car Park’. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the first car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).


Downstream from Savage Amusement Buttress and past Psychosomatic is the Illusion Buttress, a concentrated crag situated near the juction of the main watercourse and a side stream/ gully that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from upstream to downstream.

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.



Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
21 Leaving on your Mind Mixed 20m, 4

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

FA: M. Colyvan, Anita Gordon & Tony Pople, 1989

21 Don't Get Cute Mixed 18m, 1

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

FA: M. Colyvan & G. Bradbury

14 Layabout Variant Trad 25m

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

FA: E. Sharpe & G. Croft

17 ** Layabout Trad 25m

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

FA: B. Birchall


Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.

19 Going Steady Mixed 15m, 1

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio & B. Birchall

13 Illusion Trad 15m

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

FA: B. Birchall & P. Prior

15 And So It Goes Trad 20m

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

FA: M. Colyvan & B. Birchall

19 * Heavy Metal Sport 18m, 4

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

FA: A. Stephens & E. Sharpe


Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

FA: A. Stephens