|?||Savage Amusement Buttress
Downstream from Hope Buttress and Y’s Move is a higher, overhanging cliff. This is the Savage Amusement Buttress. The climbs are described in this section from upstream to downstream. One route exists on the back of this buttress. It is Poetic Justice.
Further downstream from Inertia, approximately 50 m, is a short, steep wall with a Casuarina tree at the right hand end. The thin crack up this wall is 'Psychosomatic'.
Downstream from Savage Amusement Buttress and past Psychosomatic is the Illusion Buttress, a concentrated crag situated near the juction of the main watercourse and a side stream/ gully that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from upstream to downstream.
|?||Shooting Star Block
Across the river from the Illusion buttress and slightly downstream is an overhanging wall of smooth compact rock with a veritable matrix of routes on it. The wall faces south and is an excellent place to hang out on hot summer days. Routes are described from left to right.
|?||Black Dog Wall
20m upstream from Mad Womans Breakfast is a North-facing orange wall with one route to date. This is Black Dog.
|1|| Leaving on your Mind
Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute 4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.
|2|| Don't Get Cute
4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.
|3|| Layabout Variant
2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.
The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.
|5|| Layabout/Going Steady Connection
Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.
|6|| Going Steady
The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.
The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.
|8|| And So It Goes
The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.
|9|| Heavy Metal
A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain
|10|| Heavy Metal - Direct Start
Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.
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