Topo #10880

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Area Type
? Savage Amusement Buttress

Downstream from Hope Buttress and Y’s Move is a higher, overhanging cliff. This is the Savage Amusement Buttress. The climbs are described in this section from upstream to downstream. One route exists on the back of this buttress. It is Poetic Justice.

Cliff Unlink area
? Psychosomatic Wall

Further downstream from Inertia, approximately 50 m, is a short, steep wall with a Casuarina tree at the right hand end. The thin crack up this wall is 'Psychosomatic'.

Cliff Unlink area
? Illusion Buttress

Downstream from Savage Amusement Buttress and past Psychosomatic is the Illusion Buttress, a concentrated crag situated near the juction of the main watercourse and a side stream/ gully that runs past Savage Amusement. The climbs are described from upstream to downstream.

Cliff Unlink area
? Shooting Star Block

Across the river from the Illusion buttress and slightly downstream is an overhanging wall of smooth compact rock with a veritable matrix of routes on it. The wall faces south and is an excellent place to hang out on hot summer days. Routes are described from left to right.

Cliff Unlink area
? Black Dog Wall

20m upstream from Mad Womans Breakfast is a North-facing orange wall with one route to date. This is Black Dog.

Cliff Unlink area

Topo #271

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Leaving on your Mind

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute 4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

21 Mixed 20m, 4 Unlink route
2 Don't Get Cute

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

21 Mixed 18m, 1 Unlink route
3 Layabout Variant

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

14 Trad 25m Unlink route
4 ** Layabout

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

17 Trad 25m Unlink route
5 *** Layabout/Going Steady Connection

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.

18 Mixed 18m, 1 Unlink route
6 Going Steady

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

19 Mixed 15m, 1 Unlink route
7 Illusion

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

13 Trad 15m Unlink route
8 And So It Goes

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

15 Trad 20m Unlink route
9 * Heavy Metal

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

19 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route
10 Heavy Metal - Direct Start

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

20 Sport 18m, 4 Unlink route

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