Hope Buttress Mostly Trad climbing15 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge
Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:
This is the first cliff you see as you approach the gorge (north from the car-park). The buttress is split by two sharp, clean cracks. The following climbs are described from right to left as you face the cliff.
In the gully behind Hope Buttress is a large boulder split by an obvious crack. This is Y’s Move.
Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.
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