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Description

Further upstream about 30m is a wall that runs Northsouth (i.e. perpendicular to the river). This is The Private Sector. Routes are from left to right.

©

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs) This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right until it comes to a turning circle/parking area at the beginning of the walking track. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the second car park referred to in the rest of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. This is the old ‘Car Park’. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the first car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 Pluck a Duck Sport 7m, 3

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

FA: A. Stephens,B. Christian, 1994

2
16 Pluck a Duck Direct Sport 7m, 3

Directly up through bulge left of bush.

FA: G. Low, 1995

3
18 Trajectory Sport 10m

Route no longer exists. See Trajectory direct.

FA: Jack Latanzio, 1982

4
23 * Trajectory Direct Mixed 10m, 2

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

5
24 ** Yoda Sport 10m, 3

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

FA: A. Stephens, 1994

6
3 Elevator Trad 7m

Start 5m right of Trajectory.

Up staircase blocks to top.

FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982

7
14 Wild Dog Trad 10m

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

FA: A. Stephens, M. Peck, 1982

8
22 Ninja Mixed 10m, 1

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past break (wires) past one BR to top.

FA: B. Christian, 1994

9
22 Slackers and Robbers Mixed 10m, 2

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two BR’s plus wires.

Straight up thin crack, then past two BR’s and up to belay block. Belay #2 and #3 Friends.

FA: P. Bayne (self belay), 1982

10
26 The Hot Pearl Snatch Sport 10m, 1

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers. One BR is the only protection. The hardest climb at Gara Boulders to date.

Clip the bolt, then up to the easier corner above, then easier to top.

FA: G. Robertson,SUTF, 1986

11

Start: As for Private Sector (slightly left).

Up past 3 BR’s to top.

FA: B. Christian, 1994

12
22 The Private Sector Mixed 12m, 1

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One BR is the only protection. #2 and #3 Friend belay.

Up wall to BR, then right and up to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, 1982

13
15 * Mental Reggresion Trad 8m

Start: Block wedged down right from Private Sector.

Up wall above water into thin seam to top. Small TCVs and RPs for PR9. Friend belay.

FA: G.Low,P.Hill,T.Hill, 1994

14
20 Mositened Bint Mixed 7m, 3

Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can only be done when river is down - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood.

Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay.

FA: B. Cork, 1996