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Description

Large boulder with three obvious cracks in it, that is home to a handful of good easy warm-up problems.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V2 Tree Crack Boulder 5m

Start in the crack on the left side of boulder with the thin little tree growing in it at half height. Climb crack not using the tree.

2
V2 Right of Tree Boulder 5m

Start half a metre right of the crack with the tree in it. Up thin crimps to join the horizontal crack above. It is a elimination variation so try and not to use the crack to your left.

3
V2 Unknown Boulder 5m

Just left of the finger crack is a micro right facing corner. Start there and go to nice edge then mantel and finish as for the finger crack.

4
V0 Finger Crack Boulder 5m

the obvious finger crack that goes up then left across slab to another crack and up. Good fun.

5
V2 Unknown Var. Boulder 4m

Start to the right of the finger crack and without using it, proceed up the very thin slab.