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As you walk along the track heading east, pseudo is the long cluster of rock on the right, after Little Ayes rock

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs) This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right until it comes to a turning circle/parking area at the beginning of the walking track. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the second car park referred to in the rest of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. This is the old ‘Car Park’. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the first car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Grade Route
V3 ** Teddy Bear's Picnic Boulder 2m

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

V3 Phenylephrine Boulder 5m

As for Pseudo proper, but go left and do a mantle on slopers.

V3 ** Pseudoephedrine Boulder 5m

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

V8 * Body Darma Boulder 4m

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

V1 * Unkown / M3 Boulder 4m

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up into corner. Use pocket in corner then up.

V1 * Unknown Variation Boulder

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up to top of flake. Avoid the corner and use the slight arete to the right of corner.

V0 M5 Boulder 2m

Variety of thin crimps

V0 M6 Boulder 2m

Variety of thin crimps

V1 M6.5 Boulder 3m

Start in crimps, use pocket like feature and crimps to mantel.

V2 * M7 Boulder 3m

Sit start on feature, then up rail to huge edge to mantel on crimp.

V0 M7.5 Boulder 3m

Sit start up blunt arete.