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20m upstream from Mad Womans Breakfast is a North-facing orange wall with one route to date. This is Black Dog.


Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:


Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Grade Route
25 Black Dog Sport 10m, 4

Painfully thin and technical. Use double ropes, as the third bolt could be an ankle-breaker. Up trending right past four bolts to chain.

FA: B. Christian, 1995

V1 * TBA Boulder 3m

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall. Start on the rounded arete on the far left of boulder, and traverse up and right on nice features to a mantle top out.

V7 Unknown Boulder Project 3m

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.


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