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Past the Triangle boulder about 30m on your right when heading down river.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:


Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.


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Grade Route
V3 *** Bus Driver Boulder 3m

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

V6 to V7 ** Bus driver traverse Boulder

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

V1 Middle Boulder

Start on slopers then top out right and mantle

V0 Right Boulder

Easy crimp wall beside bus driver boulder

V0- Back wall Boulder

A thin slab on the wall just uphill a couple meters from the bus driver boulder.

V1 Back of the bus Boulder

Typical shitty bruce slab with a bum start, up the back of the bus driver boulder.


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