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Description

Closer to the river from Evan's stone, near a willow is a large roughly cubed shaped rock (use your imagination).

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Approach

Cross the river, then follow the track right (east) for 200m until the track curves away from the river. About 10m after a National Parks information sign titled 'One Scheme Two Flumes' take a little track to the right towards the river for about 50m.

After the grassy area on your left, the first problem you come to is Evan Stone, an obvious problem with a left leaning rail. The rest of the problems are further east parallel to the river.

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 *** Evan Stone Boulder 4m

Delicate start up a rounded rail. It looks scary but gets better and easier and the fall isn't as bad as you think.

2

SS at the L-H end of the slabby wall. Up sharp side pulls to meaty undercling. Delicately up slab to glory rail and top-out.

FA: Ben Vincent & Alan Ezzy, 2016

3
V0 L.A.S Elevator Boulder 4m

Sit start obvious slab crack 3m left of L.A.S

FA: Ben Vincent & Phil, 2016

4
V0 L.A.S Staircase Boulder 4m

Up the corner 1m R of L.A.S Elevator. Stand start on block

FA: Ben Vincent & Phil, 2016

5
* Licorice all sorts BoulderProject 3m

Burly undercling to left fist lock, to right crimp, to ?

6
V0 Warmup Boulder 2m

Start down in the slot. The lower harder start should go too

7
V1 Warmup traverse Boulder 3m

As for Warmup then traverse left for 2m without any arse dabbing

8
V3 * Hock it Boulder 1m

Start matched on corner, throw heel on and up

9
V0 ** Zig zag traverse Boulder 6m

On a large block closer to the water from Evan's stone. A fun long traverse along slopers

10
V0 * Rail Boulder 3m

Stand start on rail, one move. Possibly a very hard lower start

11
V4 * A cult following Boulder 3m

Join our select group! Drink the Kool-Aid! Start on the rail but avoid the flat top out and stretch way out left to the side pull, right heel hook, then match and work your way left up along the lower rail.

FA: Ben Vincent, 2016

12
V7 *** The West Face Boulder 3m

Okish crimps, meh footers, dyno to sloper lip

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2016

13
V0 Rubik's cube Boulder 3m

Face climb on the river side

Activity

Check out what is happening in Evan Stone area.