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Summary

Mainly sport crag located above Bungleboori Creek in Newnes State forest Smattering of trad routes amongst them as well as the obvious Bungleboori crack (gr 21) easily see across creek from Green wall

Description

Multiple cliffs ranging from 15-50m in height, plenty of potential for lots of other routes for the keen.

NB: New crag, so be careful with rock coming off easily.

Access issues

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues.

Approach

Turn off bell line of road at ZigZag railway, and follow old bells line of road until about 1.5km past big left hand bend, turn right onto track with a tree marked with 1 red cord marker. (NOT trees with pink spray paint, keep driving. If you hit old sand mine you have gone about 1km to far.)

Road mostly 2wd friendly, last section needs a AWD or 4wd just for the clearance as it is a bit rocky and uneven... For walls A, B and C: higher 4WD's are recommended, as the road is uneven with inconsistent rock and large amount of undergrowth between tyres. Having only a 2WD drive will mean a 1km walk along mostly flat fire trail to car park. Small cars not recommended, and no place to turn around once past the "Y" in the road heading down to walls A. B and C.

Two car parks depending on which crags you want to visit, see location map below.

For walls A. B and C, once at the bottom of the 4WD track, head to the end and right of the remaining road, you will find a fixed rope down to crag.

Where to stay

Bush camping available at the western car park with several flat spots. You will need to take own water or face a big walk down the hill to the creek that is usually running.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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