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Summary

Mainly sport crag located above Bungleboori Creek in Newnes State forest Smattering of trad routes amongst them as well as the obvious Bungleboori crack (gr 21) easily see across creek from Green wall

Description

Multiple cliffs ranging from 15-50m in height, plenty of potential for lots of other routes for the keen.

NB: New crag, so be careful with rock coming off easily.

Access issues

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues.

Approach

Turn off Bells Line of Road at ZigZag railway, and follow the dirt road /Old Bells Line of Road for 5.8km. There are 2 tracks on the right 50m apart, take the 2nd track (marked with faded tape around tree). If you hit old sand mine you have gone about 1km to far.

Follow track for aprox 1.4 km to Y intersection. The left branch goes 300m to the western carpark, the right branch goes 800m to lookout and parking spot for walls A, B and C. The track to the western carpark is mostly 2wd friendly, last section needs a AWD or 4wd just for the clearance as it is a bit rocky and uneven. For walls A, B and C: higher 4WD's are recommended, as the road is uneven with inconsistent rock and large amount of undergrowth between tyres. Low clearance cars are not recommended, Having only a 2WD drive will mean a 1km walk along mostly flat fire trail to car park. There is no place before the carpark to turn around once past the "Y" in the road heading down to walls A. B and C.

For walls A. B and C, park at the bottom of the 4WD track on a rock shelf. A track on the right hand side of the rock shelf leads to a fixed rope down to the base of the crag.

Where to stay

Bush camping available at the western car park with several flat spots. You will need to take own water or face a big walk down the hill to the creek that is usually running.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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