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Description:

ACCESS: From the rain cave, bush bash down the overgrown and loose gully for several hundred metres (following a vague trail) until at the same height as an impressively large orange face on the right side of the gully ("When the Axe Falls (19)" is the thin-crack at the back a square-cut recess at the left side of this orange wall), at which point either head LEFT up the ironstone slab (trending down the gully) to gain P2 and P3, or continue a bit further down the gully to the next obvious "weakness" on the left, which is the start of Supercrack (directly opposite WtAF).

It's also possible (and easier) to exit Rain Cave from the far side (near The Ethics Police) and parallel the gully staying on the ironstone slabs until you get to Supercrack.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Lucas Trihey & Bruce Cameron

  • First Ascent: Lucas Trihey & Bruce Cameron

Location:  

Located in Main Gully approx:
Lat/Long: -33.290565,150.223947

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 WOLGAN VALLEY Selected Climbing Areas

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 94%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux stoked perfect super awesome intimidating steep roof hands crack

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Check out what is happening on Supercrack (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.