The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower offs. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer,

Fouled Up Turkey

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with Lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer,

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the knifeEdge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and lauch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

Flip, Flop, Fly

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

FA: Peter Cocker, John Finnigan, 1975

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

FA: Richard Watts, Matthew Rogerson, 1990

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

FA: Matthew Rogerson, Richard Watts, 1990

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. The 1st bolt is quite high and there is suspect flakes down low. Rebolted 2010. Take some gear for the belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Juveniles and Geriatrics / Juveniles

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 40m downhill from French Connection and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer. 1. 15m (15, cux). Hard start up the flakey black slab past (2 bolts). Gear belay. 2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Rebolted 2005 (Approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Anne Hastings (alt), 1987

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

FA: , 2010

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear underneath Fouled up Turkey etc. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

No Glove No Love / No Glove

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start. Rebolted in 2006 (approx).

FA: Gordon Poultney, Craig Kentwell, Adam Blizzard, 1987

On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1984

Very runout slabbing ... should be at Booroomba

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if your not solid.

Rebolted 2008.

FA: Mike Law-Smith,Rob Topfer, John Finnigan, 1982

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.
2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.
3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

FA: John Finnigan., 1976

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Peter Fisk, 1983

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer, 1982

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1982

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Adrienne Smith, 1987

The arete at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - five metres left of Le Muir Noir, or behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Lower yourself down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts). Scramble up until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Oliver Story, 2010

Le Muir Noir

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Going Troppo', 'Oddball', etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

FA: Tony Barten, 1989

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1990

Antipodean Alrocilies

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing on the impressive black wall above the main slabs. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

McCoy's Arete

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way. To descend, climb down the tree on the left side.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, 1987

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres uphill and left of 'Atom Ant' on the same boulder as 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

This is on a small boulder 30 metres west of 'Changes'. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

Start 20 metres downhill of the previous climb, on a boulder with a flake. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987