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Grade Route
20 * Bart's Mate, Joker Sport 15m, 4

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Tara Sutherland & Richard Watts, 1991

27 M0 Lord Bailey Sport 10m, 4

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1991

24 *** Skylark Mixed 28m, 4

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

19 ** Consumer Item Sport 10m, 3

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter. Rebolted 2009 and a lower bolt added.

FA: Richard Watts & Rob Topfer, 1984

16 ** Nail Biter Trad 10m

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

FA: Ray Lassman & Ian Thomas, 1975

21 * Strong Persuader Sport 10m, 3

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Phil Georgeff & Tony Barton, 1987

20 M2 * Aid Route Aid 25m

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

  1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

  2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

FA: John Finnigan (#1), Damien Jones & Phil Cullen (#2), 1978


Check out what is happening in Nailbiter Spike.