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Description

This is the fairly extensive outcrop seen from Canberra (but not Booroomba), on the hillside north of 'Booroomba Rocks', on the opposite side of Blue Gum Creek. The access is epic, so the area is very rarely visited. Turn right at Tharwa and then left at the fork to get to the private Booroomba Homestead - ask permission before proceeding. Note that permission is not always given.

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Approach

Walk up Blue Gum Creek along a fire trail until almost directly below the cliffs, then bushbash uphill for an hour or so... (the alternative access, via Mt Tennent and the Bushfold Flats is even worse!)

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 * Ghost Who Walks Trad 40m

Recommended, if you've got this far. Start 6 metres left of L.W.F, below two parallel cracks. Climb up to, then up these to the top.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

2
11 Lest We Forget Trad 55m

Horrible, vegetated, dirty and usually wet - a sandbag at the grade. The obvious corner on the steep wall at the left end of the cliff.

  1. 15 metres - Up the corner to belay in the cave.

  2. 30 metres - Continue up until it is possible to escape left.

  3. 10 metres - Traverse left to slabs.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

3
19 M0 XMO Aid 15m

The short steep crack above the cave on 'Lest We Forget'. Two rests due to incompetence.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

4
18 High Spirits Trad 60m

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

  1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

  2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Collins (alt.), Adam Blizzard, 1989

5
16 Flying Phantom Trad 40m

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

6
16 Blue Gum Trad 60m

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo)

7
18 Only The Lonely Trad 80m

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

  1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

  2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Damien Jones (alt.), 1975

Open trips

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