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Description

Named to coincide with the bouldering area of the same name, holding some old (and possibly destroyed) boulder problems. Home to a climb put up by Chris Warner (but not yet freed) called 'The Riff'. Note: this is really not a summer crag, other than in early morning. It gets full day sun. Also please consider wearing a helmet as there is a lot of friable rock in the area that has not been cleaned up.

Access issues inherited from Back side

The backside is all state forest, motorised vehicles on formed roads only, but other than that most things are fair game

Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek

A number of problems have been established and reestablished since the fires and to a large extent climb like the original problems.

Some content has been provided under license from: © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 Trust Boulder 6m

A highball, very height dependent. Sit start. Sink a jam (if you can) up high and use a small notch for your left hand to campus up and get your feet set. That's the hard move, the rest is grade 14. For shorties, it's going to be more difficult but there's a reasonable number of holds. You can get off the back of the boulder, if you're careful. Obviously, don't use the tree... (it actually is quite tempting when you're trying to get the side-smear!)

2
V3 Trust LH/stand Boulder 6m

Start with left hand in a quarter pad notch and right hand in the crack, and crank on up laybacking to get your feet started.

3
AID:A2+ ** The Riff Aid 20m

Flaring crack into a seam and then several hook moves to gain the horizontal crack and stepping right and up using the horizontal crack. May go direct as well. Overhangs 4 metres in 15. Would be difficult to free due to the flaring crack, but could be possible at high 20's or over.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

Directions start from below Matricide

I'm fairly certain they lead here, and the lines seem to line up: The track continues gradually rightwards around the broad ridge and the valley on the left closes in. The track soon turns left at a damp gully crossing and descends on the other side of the valley beneath pine forest. A few large boulders once showed in the pines above the road 200 metres along from the damp gully

4

On the right-hand boulder is this climb. Previously world famous as the name of the ACT's Pritkin Climbing Rag. The hand crack with the wide finish.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1981

5

The thin, leaning finger crack on the boulder on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

6
20 Never Again Trad 12m

The obvious crackline on the large boulder (facing Canberra) 15 metres behind 'Good Things Come in Small Packages'. An off-width crux.

FA: Ken Luck, Adam Blizzard & Andrew Bentley, 1988

7
14 Trivia Trad 10m

On a small boulder nearby to 'Never Again'. Up onto the small slab, right across a small wall and onto the main slab to finish a small climb.

FA: John Carlson & Mike Peck, 1980

8

No info exists, though there are a few ascents logged, but all pre '10. The guide they claim to come from doesn't exist either. There are ascents logged, so I'm reluctant to merge. Although the evidence mounts that these were 'some passing cockroaches attempt at glory' - See old/new (who knows?) routing thread on Chocky '13

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