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Summary

Great granite blocs of a size suitable for some real tradding.

Description

Named to coincide with the bouldering area of the same name, holding some old (and possibly destroyed) boulder problems. Home to a climb put up by Chris Warner (but not yet freed) called 'The Riff'. Note: this is really not a summer crag, other than in early morning. It gets full day sun. Also please consider wearing a helmet as there is a lot of friable rock in the area that has not been cleaned up.

Approach

From the parking spot (see map) it is a 20-30 metre walk to the boulders. There is a lot of scrub around so it is quite difficult to see the boulders and to navigate around.

Ethic

There are no bolts in this area. Pierce's Creek is an area that has traditionally been approached with a trad ethic, much like the rest of Canberra. This is not to say that unprotectable lines should/could not be bolted, but please get in contact with the CCA (or discuss with some local climbers) first.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
A2+ ** The Riff Aid 20m

Flaring crack into a seam and then several hook moves to gain the horizontal crack and stepping right and up using the horizontal crack. May go direct as well. Overhangs 4 metres in 15. Would be difficult to free due to the flaring crack, but could be possible at high 20's or over.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

2
US E3 6a *** Flypast Crack Trad 15m

Start at a cruxy corner/chimney move on smears to get going, then up through the ascending corner crack. Due to its orientation the crack does a good job of trying to spit you out. Two definite cruxes, one is turning the corner down low and the last is the offwidth move off stacked hands at the top. A bit of everything all packed into a very short space. Still exfoliating a bit so a helmet for the belayer might be a good idea, and watch your ankles on the first move.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

3
US No Warmup Top rope 6m

A top-rope boulder problem, or X rated boulder problem (if you fall right you're going for a 15 metre tumble), or solo for an idiot. Step from a ledge halfway up the crack and then follow the increasingly shallow rib. Very short, breaking down into around V1, V4 then V7 moves consecutively and roughly V10 for the top-out (nicer to do with your anchor over the edge and climbing to the anchor). May have been climbed before, but exfoliated significantly, presumably because of the fires so no ascents in ten years or more. Grade's a rough guess. First ascent on top rope, go ahead and free(solo) it. Not really possible from the ground.

FA: David Nott, 2013

4
US 18 Lovewidth Trad Project 9m

Climb delicately up, bridging until the 4 metre mark where you can set the first gear. Continue up the proper offwidth either by flailing about or with the grace of a gazelle, depending on your preference. You will need something big, i.e. a #5/6 BD or something similar. The crack is a constant width so bumping one piece is an option, but be aware it exfoliates.

FA: David Nott, 2013

5
US 16 Spider House Traverse Trad 9m

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse right through a thin finger crack section, smearing, and up through a hands/fist crack to finish. Be careful of the exfoliating rock underneath your feet, there's still a lot coming off. Quite pleasant.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

6
Spider House Direttisima Trad Project 9m

A slab start to the offwidth finish of Spider House Traverse. Project, needs cleaning and will be reasonably difficult. Unprotectable for the first 5 metres.

7
US 17 Spider House Extension Trad 15m

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse the full length of the boulder. There's a great rest ledge between the two slabs but it's a little steeper at the end. Careful of the friable foot-and-handholds. Takes good gear.

FA: David Nott, 2013

8
Project 1 Trad Project

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

9

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

10

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

11

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

12
Project 5 Trad 20m

The huge chimney. You may need to be lowered in to climb out (you have been warned). Fire-damaged so there's a lot of soot at the top. There's two big chocks to belay off up the top.

13
4 Access Route Trad 6m

Solo up the back of the block with 'The Riff' and 'Flypast Crack' to a big chock, where you can set up a belay (or further down, depending on what you want to do). Be careful, if you're walking along the crackline it is a bit vegetated where it thins out.

14

Pure guess as to the grade. Will be extremely hard to free - there are no footers in the upper crack after cleaning removed the impact of the fires. Smear and beg. Start higher up and step across or the lower start adds 3 metres and probably a few grades.

FA: David Nott, 6th Apr

15
18 Farewell to Arms Trad 10m

Curved sickle crack which slabs out at the top but the transition is funky. You may want a BD #5 to finish up the offwidth.

FA: David Nott, 12th Apr

16
V0 The Sorry Boulder Boulder 6m

Slightly highball chimney problem. Exit out the back.

FA: David Nott, 12th Apr

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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