Topo #4860

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Area Type
3 Frenchies

A little tricky to find the first time. As you are walking up the tourist approach track, you will pass through a gap between boulders about 1m wide, which will make you want to lean to the left as you go through it. 10m beyond the gap turn left (North) off the tourist track. (If you miss the turn you will go through another not-quite-as-narrow gap 5m later). Wind your way through the bushes for 15m, then turn right down a gully under a wedged boulder. Where you emerge from the gully, on your right is the start of Heckmondwike Twist. Straight ahead a boulder juts out with Porcupine Pie and the bolted offwidth roof. To the left is the French Connections boulder.

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4 Juveniles area

Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

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6 No Glove

This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.

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5 Black wall

Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

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7 Southern Tablelands

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

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8 Knife Edge Boulder

Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.

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10 Summit Boulders

Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

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11 Skippy's Slab area
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9 Nailbiter Spike
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14 Monkey Level

Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly. Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

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15 Non-Descript Boulder

The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.

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16 Safari Bouders

These boulders are easily accessible from the Tidbinbilla walking track. From the saddle, Follow the walking track downhill towards Tidbinbilla. For 'Professor Longhair' leave the track at the 'Granites' sign. 'Mario' is jusy before the lookout platform at the first switchback. For the other routes continue down the track to the third switchback, passing a boulder with a handrail 30m before the switchback. At the switchback turn right and follow a faint foot pad along the contour for 50m.

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1 Trackside

This area is the first you come to, stretching to the left and right of the walking track where you first see a small cliffline. 'Another Roadside Attraction' is the prominent corner with a small roof, just right of the walking track.

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Route Grade Popularity Style
16.1 Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

14 Trad 10m Unlink route
16.2 Mario and the Blue Angels

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

17 Trad 15m Unlink route
16.3 One for the Road

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

17 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #4963 - Overhead new style

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Area Type
1 Trackside

This area is the first you come to, stretching to the left and right of the walking track where you first see a small cliffline. 'Another Roadside Attraction' is the prominent corner with a small roof, just right of the walking track.

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3 Frenchies

A little tricky to find the first time. As you are walking up the tourist approach track, you will pass through a gap between boulders about 1m wide, which will make you want to lean to the left as you go through it. 10m beyond the gap turn left (North) off the tourist track. (If you miss the turn you will go through another not-quite-as-narrow gap 5m later). Wind your way through the bushes for 15m, then turn right down a gully under a wedged boulder. Where you emerge from the gully, on your right is the start of Heckmondwike Twist. Straight ahead a boulder juts out with Porcupine Pie and the bolted offwidth roof. To the left is the French Connections boulder.

Sector Unlink area
4 Juveniles area

Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

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6 No Glove

This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.

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5 Black wall

Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

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7 Southern Tablelands

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

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8 Knife Edge Boulder

Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.

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10 Summit Boulders

Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

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11 Skippy's Slab area
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9 Nailbiter Spike
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14 Monkey Level

Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly. Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

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15 Non-Descript Boulder

The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.

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12 Egg Cave

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down a short gully for 15m. Turn right and skirt under the 'Skippy Slab' boulder, passing Picasso on your right to reach the cave formed by a huge balanced boulder.

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13 Marzipan

Climbs described left to right.

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2 Shady side

To the right of the Trackside sector are a few boulders and slabs that stay in the shade much of the time. There is one excellent climb past the moss.

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Topo #4861

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Area Type
4 Juveniles area

Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

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6 No Glove

This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.

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5 Black wall

Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

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7 Southern Tablelands

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

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8 Knife Edge Boulder

Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.

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11 Skippy's Slab area
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9 Nailbiter Spike
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14 Monkey Level

Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly. Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

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15 Non-Descript Boulder

The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.

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16 Safari Bouders

These boulders are easily accessible from the Tidbinbilla walking track. From the saddle, Follow the walking track downhill towards Tidbinbilla. For 'Professor Longhair' leave the track at the 'Granites' sign. 'Mario' is jusy before the lookout platform at the first switchback. For the other routes continue down the track to the third switchback, passing a boulder with a handrail 30m before the switchback. At the switchback turn right and follow a faint foot pad along the contour for 50m.

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12 Egg Cave

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down a short gully for 15m. Turn right and skirt under the 'Skippy Slab' boulder, passing Picasso on your right to reach the cave formed by a huge balanced boulder.

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13 Marzipan

Climbs described left to right.

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Topo #4889

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Area Type
10 Summit Boulders

Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

Sector Unlink area
11 Skippy's Slab area
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9 Nailbiter Spike
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14 Monkey Level

Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly. Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

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15 Non-Descript Boulder

The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.

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12 Egg Cave

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down a short gully for 15m. Turn right and skirt under the 'Skippy Slab' boulder, passing Picasso on your right to reach the cave formed by a huge balanced boulder.

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13 Marzipan

Climbs described left to right.

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Topo #1334 - Gibraltar Peak (c) ANU Mountaineering Club

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Area Type
? Gibraltar Peak

Varied climbing on a prominent collection of boulders. Lots of slabs, a few great aretes and some stellar crack climbs make for a good day out. Most climbs get the sun, making Gibraltar a good winter destination, although there are some good shady climbs as well. Gibraltar is in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and is a popular day walk destination, so you can gawk at the tourists having lunch as you do your climb.

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? Pox Rox

These miniscule boulders can be found near the road, 60 metres past the gate on the way down to 'The Jism' or 'The Fortress' from 'Gibraltar Peak'. Most of the routes were probably done before the ACT Granite Guide reported them. The main group of boulders is on the left (walking from Gibralter towards The Fortress).

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? The Jism

Further down the track from 'Pox Rox' (or at the top of the hill beyond 'The Fortress') is an impressive spire on the left (over a fence), with one significant climb.

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? The Fortress

A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here. A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.

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? Bandito Wall

This newly found little crag sits just above the creek which formed it and became apparent to Chris Warner who developed most of the climbs, after the 2003 bushfires cleared the landscape. The rock quality here is excellent with some great routes at all grades. Probably the most accessible crag in Canberra. Look for a small fire trail on the right at the end of the left sweeping curve, well before the now accepted turnoff to Gibraltar Peak - keep an eye out for the creek gully and its passage under the road. Park 50m down the road and follow the faint track on the northern side of the creek for 5 minutes. Its hard to find first off.

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? The Hideout

A few gems at this tiny crag! When it is seeping at the sister cliff - Bandido Wall, you may find something drier to climb here. To find it, walk a further three minutes up the valley from Bandido.

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? Snake Rock

The original ACT Granite description: Slumped on the eastern side of the Corin Valley is an unimpressive pile of yellow/brown granite about to slide down into the creek. Close up, it's rather reminiscent of gritstone and has some classic short routes in the range 18-26 (complete with bolts, very unreminiscent of gritstone). A good alternative to 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Fortress' in winter. It is in the sun most of the day. New description: Snake Rock has become a popular little spot for getting out and about, particularly during winter when you can make the most of full sunshine on the granite. With some additional routes having been put up in sport style in addition to the earlier trad routes, the crag is now suitable for a large range of experience and interests. Just watch out if you're doing routes on the upper tier - consider slinging a rope to keep you from dropping off the ledge.

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