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Description

This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.

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Approach

Initial approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m to Juvenilles and Geriatrics (the black slab on your right). From here you have two options. The traditional access (and OK for No Glove) is to scramble down the steep gully just past Juveniles, with the No Glove boulder on your left as you go down. Alternatively, scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt to DBB and rap in. This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. For No Glove, rap and tension left to clip into the leftmost line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable (and required for the other routes). For When Only The Best Will Do and all routes to its right, extend the anchor with a long sling and rap down WOTBWD - a 60m rope just reaches.

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Descent notes

Rap 5m off the back of the boulder to near the start of Juveniles.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Craig Kentwell & Adam Blizzard, 1987

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

FA: John Carlson & Mike Peck, 1984

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer & John Finnigan, 1982

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2015

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

  1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.

  2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

  3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

FA: John Finnigan, 1976

The following climbs are on the Oddball boulder, which forms the right-hand side of Blagdon's first pitch. Watch out for loose flakes. Belay a the No Glove anchor.

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

An attempt to create more easy slabs turned into a misguided use of bolts and effort by people who should know better.

Start down and right of 'Rite of Passage', as for 'No Easy Street'. Step onto the boulder and follow the easiest path up and left past bolts until you're on the horizontal weakness of 'Rite of Passage'. Traverse right to gain the crack. Follow the crack and dyke up and left, then easy slabbing to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott & Damian Javanovic, 2015

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

FA: John Carlson & Peter Fisk, 1983

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell & Mike Peck, 1987

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Rob Topfer, 1982

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Paul Daniel, 1982

The following climb is on its own boulder just right of Oddball, but might be best approached via Frenchies area by walking past French Connections and McCoys Arete.

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Adrienne Smith, 1987

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