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Description

Quite a nice spot to cool down in summer after visiting 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Bank', with a natural sauna at the top of the falls. The actual rock is rather limited.

The area has been visited by every man and his dog over the years, due to the superb sealed access; some rusty machine nuts survive from the dark ages. While various climbs have been soloed, led or top-roped, no details survive and the following names and grades were from a reconnaissance trip before the most recent ACT Granite was printed.

There is a bouldering wall high on the far (eastern) side, slightly above the level of the top of the falls, with a wide range of cracks, chimneys and slab climbs.

For slightly more serious climbing, follow the tourists down to the lookout. The best climbing is on the wall below this; most routes can be top-roped. Abseil in or jump the fence and scramble down the blocky arete at the downstream end. Watch out for interference with belays and flying rocks; the spot is incredibly popular with abseilers. The bottom of the climbs can be wet if the water level is high.

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Approach

Drive along Corin Road and turn left into the well marked car park above Woods Reserve.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs are described from left to right on the western wall

1
20 * Offspring Trad 10m

Doesn't let up; the best of the lot here. Jump start (crux; it is also possible to traverse in from the right) to a horizontal break two metres left of 'Barbary Ape' and up the thin crack to a mantle (second crux). Finish up through the rooflets.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

2
15 Angel Wings Trad 15m

The broken crack system from the ground to the top, finishing up the flared chimney.

FA: Unknown

3
17 Tiny Teds Trad 6m

Start one metre right of 'Angel Wings'. Up the wall to a good undercling, then through the rooflet on good edges. Needs a bolt (climbed with a high runner in the crack).

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

The cliff opposite the lookout is broken, but there is some tolerable climbing at stream level opposite and slightly downstream. Described right to left.

4
14 Cinders Trad 10m

Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack.

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

5
19 Barbary Ape Trad 10m

Further left. Up the corner through a roof to the layback crack. Traverse right to a small tree to finish.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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