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Table of contents

1. Gibraltar and Corin Road 322 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.929818, -35.489085


The Corin Road area is home to Gibraltar Peak, a Granite Tor that stands proud above the Tidbinbilla valley to its north west and and the narrow Gibraltar Creek valley to its south, and several worthwhile smaller crags. Snake Rock (great for a winter day or late summer afternoon), Bandito Wall (probably the easiest access crag - great for a summer morning). Several more crags are scattered along the Corin Road and in Tidbinbilla valley and its flanks.

Where To Stay:

Woods Reserve on Corin Road offers camping in pleasant surrounds by a creek.

1.1. Gibraltar Peak 122 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.947761, -35.458601


Varied climbing on a prominent collection of boulders. Lots of slabs, a few great aretes and some stellar crack climbs make for a good day out. Most climbs get the sun, making Gibraltar a good winter destination, although there are some good shady climbs as well. Gibraltar is in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and is a popular day walk destination, so you can gawk at the tourists having lunch as you do your climb.


The first option is from the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve. Take the main Tidbinbilla Reserve Road and park at the first dirt carpark on the right. Walk up a (steep) 45 minute track towards the peak - clearly signposted. GPS reference for the carpark is -35.448714,148.926694. Note you will have to pay entry costs - $10 per car or $20 per year in 2013.

The second option is from the other side, preferably with a 4WD vehicle. Turn off from Corin Road onto the track at GPS coordinates -35.458573,148.94753, take a left and follow the track around until it does a 180 and you meet a gate. Park and keep trekking up the path for a steep 10 minute walk until you get to the peak.

The peak itself can be found at GPS coords -35.467329,148.95489.

1.1.1. Trackside 13 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 148.946688, -35.459017


This area is the first you come to, stretching to the left and right of the walking track where you first see a small cliffline. 'Another Roadside Attraction' is the prominent corner with a small roof, just right of the walking track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following four climbs are to the left of the walking track.

1 Open Project

There is a photo of this fine route up an orange open-book corner on the inside cover of the ACT Granite Guide. The first two thirds are about grade 23 and nice climbing. The last few metres will be 27 or 28 and are tenuous and thin. The start is left and around the corner from Poultry in Motion.

Sport Project
2 Poultry in Motion

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. Belay on shrubs and gear. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

20Mixed 10m, 3
3 Legless

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

20Trad 15m
4 * Armless

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick McGregor, 1977

21Trad 20m
5 Blue Stumps

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

FA: Anne Hastings, Caron Avis, 1987

12Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Blue Lights

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, 1982

18Trad 15m
7 Lengthways Chinaman

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Margaret Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

10Trad 15m
8 Dubious Tactics

Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, Will Steffen, 1982

14Trad 15m
9 * Another Roadside Attraction

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

FA: Phill Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

20Trad 15m
10 Kate's Bush

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1988

16Trad 10m
11 Bad Luck Sir

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1988

23Mixed 12m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Crack of Ionic Finger Strength

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Bill Coddington, 1988

13Trad 10m
13 Plasticine People

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

FA: Tony Barten, Gordon Poultney, 1987

19Sport 7m

1.1.2. Shady side 5 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947648, -35.459493


To the right of the Trackside sector are a few boulders and slabs that stay in the shade much of the time. There is one excellent climb past the moss.


From Another Roadside Attraction, walk right (passing under 'Bad Luck Sir') and slightly downhill away from the boulders until you break through the bushes into more open ground. Follow a vague track along the contour, sticking below any boulders that look big enough to climb on. 'Arse Bandit' and nearby climbs can be reached by going up a short gully between boulders after 50m or so. To get to 'Rimmon Crack' keep following the contour for another 30m to a squashed-looking boulder with a horizontal crack on the downhill side. 60m further along the contour is another group of boulders, with 'Overnight Sensation' on the downhill side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Arse Bandit

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

FA: Peter Fisk, Mike Peck, 1984

21Sport 20m, 2
2 Rock and Birds

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

19Trad 12m
3 Barry the Radish

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

20Trad 20m
4 Rimmon Crack

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, Armando Corvini, Graham Reilly, 1985

20Trad 10m
5 ** Overnight Sensation

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 150 metres right from 'Another Roadside Attraction'.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, 1978

21Trad 18m

1.1.3. Frenchies 8 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947121, -35.458690


A little tricky to find the first time. As you are walking up the tourist approach track, you will pass through a gap between boulders about 1m wide, which will make you want to lean to the left as you go through it. 10m beyond the gap turn left (North) off the tourist track. (If you miss the turn you will go through another not-quite-as-narrow gap 5m later). Wind your way through the bushes for 15m, then turn right down a gully under a wedged boulder. Where you emerge from the gully, on your right is the start of Heckmondwike Twist. Straight ahead a boulder juts out with Porcupine Pie and the bolted offwidth roof. To the left is the French Connections boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheesecake

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

FA: Peter Cocker, John Finnigan, 1975

12Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 ** Moth

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

FA: B.Aikman, 2014

24Trad 15m
3 * Porcupine Pie

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

FA: Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

20Sport 10m, 2
4 * Heckmondwike Twist

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

FA: John Finnigan, Peter Cocker, 1975

17Trad 20m
5 ** French Connections

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

26Sport 13m, 4
6 Defined by the First Contraction

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

FA: Richard Watts, Matthew Rogerson, 1990

24Mixed 15m, 1
7 Jihad Chimney

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

16Trad 14m
8 * Jihad

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

FA: Matthew Rogerson, Richard Watts, 1990

23Sport 14m, 3

1.1.4. Juveniles area 5 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947255, -35.458462


Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 JAM (Just Another Megaroute)

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

14Trad 15m
2 Fun Climb

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

FA: 2010

15Mixed 20m, 3
3 * Juveniles and Geriatrics / Juveniles

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

  1. 15m (15, cux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

  2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Rebolted 2005 (Approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Anne Hastings (alt), 1987

15Mixed 30m, 5
4 Blagdon P2

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

13Trad 15m
5 * Labor Pains

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low. In 2014 part of the tree had fallen onto the slab, meaning it might need trimming. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

17Sport 15m, 3

1.1.5. Black wall 7 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.946945, -35.458496


Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

Descent Notes:©

'Le Muir Noir' through to 'Fast Living' all require you to belay from the top (wrap the rope around a boulder). To descend, there is a rap anchor on the uphill side, opposite Jihad.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Aubergine Dream

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Oliver Story, 2010

24Sport 15m, 6
2 * Le Muir Noir

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Blagdon' P1, 'Oddball' etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

FA: Tony Barten, 1989

25Sport 12m, 5
3 Back on Black

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1990

24Sport 15m
4 ** Antipodean Atrocities

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

25Sport 20m, 4
5 * McCoys Arete

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, 1987

22Sport 10m, 4
6 Fast Living

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

24Mixed 13m, 3
7 Atom Ant

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete', about level with 'Fast Living'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

22Trad 13m

1.1.6. No Glove 11 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947025, -35.458343


This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.


Initial approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m to Juvenilles and Geriatrics (the black slab on your right). From here you have two options. The traditional access (and OK for No Glove) is to scramble down the steep gully just past Juveniles, with the No Glove boulder on your left as you go down. Alternatively, scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt to DBB and rap in. This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. For No Glove, rap and tension left to clip into the leftmost line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable (and required for the other routes). For When Only The Best Will Do and all routes to its right, extend the anchor with a long sling and rap down WOTBWD - a 60m rope just reaches.

Descent Notes:©

Rap 5m off the back of the boulder to near the start of Juveniles.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** No Glove No Love / No Glove

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start. Rebolted in 2006 (approx).

FA: Gordon Poultney, Craig Kentwell, Adam Blizzard, 1987

18Mixed 25m, 3
2 * On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1984

19Sport 30m, 2
3 On the Beach Direct Start

Very runout slabbing ... should be at Booroomba

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

18Sport 30m, 1
4 ** When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if your not solid.

Rebolted 2008.

FA: Mike Law-Smith,Rob Topfer, John Finnigan, 1982

20Sport 32m, 4
5 Blagdon / Blagdon Amateur Rapist

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

  1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.

  2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

  3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

FA: John Finnigan, 1976

15Trad 80m

The following climbs are on the Oddball boulder, which forms the right-hand side of Blagdon's first pitch. Watch out for loose flakes. Belay a the No Glove anchor.

6 Rite of Passage

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

16Trad 30m
7 No Easy Street

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Peter Fisk, 1983

15Trad 30m
8 Haircare Make-up Drugs

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

19Sport 25m, 2
9 * Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer, 1982

19Sport 25m, 2
10 Going Troppo

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1982

22Sport 30m, 4

The following climb is on its own boulder just right of Oddball, but might be best approached via Frenchies area by walking past French Connections and McCoys Arete.

11 Changes

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Adrienne Smith, 1987

20Trad 20m

1.1.7. Southern Tablelands 16 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947648, -35.458658


A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.


From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down towards the Nailbiter spike, keeping the wall on your left. The first route you come to is Boomtown Refugee. If you keep following the wall you will get to the top of a short chimney choked by boulders. Scramble down this and around the corner to the start of Scarborough Fair. From here you can scramble up to the base of the Knife Edge Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boomtown Refugee

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

FA: Craig Kentwell, 1988

22Mixed 10m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Holds Go Begging

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Richard Watts, Dave McGregor, 1985

23Sport 15m, 3
3 Dim Parkio

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

23Sport 15m, 4
4 Tri-State

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Tim Chapman, Geoff Kennett, 1982

21Sport 15m, 2
5 The Groove

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

8Trad 20m
6 Dear Prudence

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Matthew Larkin, 1982

17Trad 25m
7 Revolution

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

19Mixed 8m, 2
8 Tiptoe

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

13Trad 25m
9 * Hey Jude

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, John "Chaz" Wood, 1978

18Trad 25m
10 Cornucopia

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

23Mixed 25m, 1
11 ** Scarborough Fair

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double bolt belay.

FA: Damien Jones, "Chaz" unable to follow, 1978

18Trad 35m
12 *** Scarborough Fair (Roof Variant)

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Unknown

20Trad 35m
13 Trivial Pursuits

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

FA: Dave McGregor, Simon Carter, Dave Sargent, 1985

24Mixed 10m, 2
14 * Parole

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

22Mixed 25m, 2

Happy Piggyland and Simply Salsa are best accessed via the Frenchies area. From Heckmondwike Twist, walk under the knife-edge boulder to the bottom of the wall down in The Pits.

15 * Happy Piggyland

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

FA: John Stone, John Carlson, 1980

FFA: Adam Blizzard, Neil Montgomery, 1987

22Mixed 35m, 1
16 Simply Salsa

Details uncertain. Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up passing chain-link hangers to finish as for Holy Guacamole.

FA: R. Carey, 2003

20Mixed 35m, 4

1.1.8. Knife Edge Boulder 4 routes in Sector

All Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947347, -35.458578


Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.


Scramble around from the start of 'Scarborough Fair'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * V1 Special

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer

22Sport 15m, 3
2 ** Fouled Up Turkey

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer

20Sport 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Holy Guacamole

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

FA: Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, Anne Hastings, Caron Avis, 1987

17Sport 5m, 2
4 * Flip, Flop, Fly

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

Set by Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, Simon Carter, Anthony Budd, Alistair Hunt, 1987

16Sport 5m, 2

1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike 7 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.947836, -35.458479

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bart's Mate, Joker

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Tara Sutherland, Richard Watts, 1991

20Sport 15m, 4
2 Lord Bailey

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1991

27 M0Sport 10m, 4
3 *** Skylark

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

24Mixed 28m, 4
4 * Consumer Item

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter. Rebolted 2009 and a lower bolt added.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

19Sport 10m, 3
5 ** Nail Biter

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

FA: Ray Lassman, Ian Thomas, 1975

16Trad 10m
6 Strong Persuader

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Phil Georgeff, Tony Barton, 1987

21Sport 10m, 3
7 Aid Route

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

  1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

  2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

FA: John Finnigan (#1), Damien Jones, Phil Cullen (#2), 1978

20 M2Aid 25m

1.1.10. Summit Boulders 12 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.948063, -35.459067


Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

Descent Notes:©

All boulders have rap chains or lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Spiders

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

21Sport 20m, 2
2 At the Stillpoint of Destruction

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts, now back in its natural state of none.

FA: Tony Barten, George Poultney, 1987

22Trad 12m
3 * Fat and Healthy

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

24Sport 13m, 3
4 Open project

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Sport Project 14m, 2
5 * Sound as a Trout

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station. Bolts replaced 2007 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

21Mixed 13m, 3
6 White Rabbit

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Anne Hastings, Mike Peck, Tony Barton, Caron Avis, 1987

16Sport 10m, 2
7 Get Your Motors Running

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness. Rebolted in 2007 (approx).

FA: Phil Cullen, Mark Lithgow, 1978

12Mixed 20m, 2
8 Piltdown Man

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

15Trad 15m
9 ** Roxley R.I.P.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1992

22Sport 15m, 6
10 Piglets in Paradise

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group of boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

FA: Steve Harper, Scott Albutt, 1984

15Trad 24m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Midsummer Madness

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab past a bolt to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub. Take Camalot 2-4.

FA: Phil Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

18Mixed 21m, 1
12 The Lecher

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

FA: Damien Jones, Judy Costin, 1977

10Trad 20m

1.1.11. Skippy's Slab area 4 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.948120, -35.458812

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 My Name is Luka

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Ann Hastings, 1987

14Sport 15m, 1
2 Skippy's Slab

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

FA: Caron Avis, 1987

15Mixed 12m, 1
3 Goony Waltz

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

FA: The whole of Canberra, 1987

17Sport 10m, 2
4 * Love Vigilante

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1989

20Sport 12m, 4

1.1.12. Egg Cave 8 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.948328, -35.458661


From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down a short gully for 15m. Turn right and skirt under the 'Skippy Slab' boulder, passing Picasso on your right to reach the cave formed by a huge balanced boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pecasso

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

FFA: Tony Barten, 1988

24Sport 20m, 5
2 * Who's Better, Who's Best

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

FA: Craig Kentwell, Phil Georgeff, Anne Hastings, 1988

17Sport 12m, 3
3 * My Generation

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1987

22Sport 20m, 6
4 Project

Start in the tunnel 3m left of Gorgeous Turn Me On.

Unknown Project
5 Gorgeous Turn Me On

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

FA: Gordon Turner (solo) 1990s, 1995

20Trad 10m
6 Easy Rider

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

  1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

  2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

  3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

FA: George Renn, 1988

15Sport 31m, 5
7 Milwaukee Pig Iron

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

18Sport 10m, 3
8 * Sticky Fingers

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1988

23Trad 30m

1.1.13. Marzipan 3 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.948477, -35.458402


Climbs described left to right.


From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. As you go down the gully the Marzipan area is to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Down By Law

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1988

23Trad 15m
2 Return of the Marzipan Kid

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

18Trad 15m
3 Flying Leathernecks

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1988

21Mixed 15m, 2

1.1.14. Monkey Level 7 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947758, -35.458279


Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly.

Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ape

Straight up the chimney, belaying on the large ledge at half height. It is possible to climb either pitch independently.

Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

FA: Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, Peter Mills; Peter Mills, Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, 1974

16Trad 40m
2 Free Tibet

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step left of the chimney and onto the face. Up past three bolts.

FA: Armando Corvini, Jacob Greber, 1992

20Mixed 25m, 3
3 Ape Escape

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately right onto the face and up. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

20Mixed 20m, 4
4 Chicken Run

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

18Trad 35m
5 Swinging Seat

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

  1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

  2. 13 metres - Out of the cave and up the V-crack to the top.

FA: C Larque, R Curtis (alt), 1974

19Trad 30m
6 * Monkey Business

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Find a dead branch and lean it against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

21Mixed 25m, 2
7 The Squeeze

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.

FA: Peter Riddy, Tony Wood (alt.), 1975

13Trad 50m

1.1.15. Non-Descript Boulder 3 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947327, -35.458063


The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.


Various approaches are possible via Monkey Level or the No Glove area, but this one should stay relatively free of scrub! Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully, taking the left-hand fork (facing out) once you are out of the cave. The Nondescript Boulder should be straight ahead of you.

Descent Notes:©

Rap chain above 'The Seventh Hedgehog'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The First Echidna

The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb.

FA: Toby Story, Oliver Story, 2014

6Trad 10m
2 Captain America

Might not exist any more. A large column has fallen off, meaning the obvious rightwards leaning corner is now closed and blank.

FA: John Stone

16Trad 12m
3 The Seventh Hedgehog

The right-facing corner crack leading to a blocky finish. Chain belay.

FA: John Stone, Hugh Stone, S. Raiser, Mike Peck, 1979

14Trad 20m

1.1.16. Safari Bouders 8 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947406, -35.457152


These boulders are easily accessible from the Tidbinbilla walking track. From the saddle, Follow the walking track downhill towards Tidbinbilla. For 'Professor Longhair' leave the track at the 'Granites' sign. 'Mario' is jusy before the lookout platform at the first switchback. For the other routes continue down the track to the third switchback, passing a boulder with a handrail 30m before the switchback. At the switchback turn right and follow a faint foot pad along the contour for 50m.

Descent Notes:©

Rap anchor on top of the 'Low Hydrogen' boulder. Other boulders just scramble off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

14Trad 10m
2 Mario and the Blue Angels

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

17Trad 15m
3 One for the Road

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

FA: Geoff Gardiner, Geoff Fraser, 2014

17Trad 8m
4 Low Hydrogen

The easiest crack on the uphill side of the boulder. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

16Trad 13m
5 Faint Hearted

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

FA: Anne Hastings, Phil Georgeff, 1987

17Trad 14m
6 Fish in a Barrel

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

FA: D Anderson-Smith, D McGregor, 2014

18Trad 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Broken Window

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1987

FFA: Oliver Story, 2013

22Trad 15m
8 Locomotion

The hand crack on an isolated boulder 20m right (looking uphill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

17Trad 8m

1.2. Pox Rox 8 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.951768, -35.460667


These miniscule boulders can be found near the road, 60 metres past the gate on the way down to 'The Jism' or 'The Fortress' from 'Gibraltar Peak'. Most of the routes were probably done before the ACT Granite Guide reported them. The main group of boulders is on the left (walking from Gibralter towards The Fortress).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Umbalah Crack

This obscure 'gem' can be found on the way, 20 metres to the left of the road, just before the gate. It is a short curving hand crack on a boulder.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1984

16Trad 8m
2 No Reservations

The short hand crack in the main group, facing the road.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck (solo), 1987

15Trad 5m
3 Snow Storm

The first crack and flake to a bolt belay, on the next boulder. Climbed in a blizzard.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, 1987

14Trad 10m
4 Snow Flake

The layback flake five metres right of 'Snow Storm'.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1987

15Trad 12m
5 Much Man

Up the thin crack five metres right of 'Snowflake', right up to a flake and finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

16Trad 12m
6 Small Pox

The short corner on the back of the boulder. Up to a block, then easily up the mossy slab to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

18Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Le Tour

On an isolated boulder down from 'Small Pox'. Steeply up to first bolt (crux) then follow the groove past another bolt to a single bolt rap station. Bolted by persons unknock.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Rebecca McLeod, 1996

21Trad 15m
8 No Stone Unturned

On the southern side of the road. Climb the easy crack and gully.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

13Trad 10m

1.3. The Jism 4 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.955905, -35.461289


Further down the track from 'Pox Rox' (or at the top of the hill beyond 'The Fortress') is an impressive spire on the left (over a fence), with one significant climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Future Shock

The obvious shallow crack facing the road. It was originally aided and called 'The Jism', but was freed and renamed.

FA: Phil Cullen

FFA: John Smart, 1978

23Trad 18m
2 Rangehon

The line on the opposite side of the boulder. Up to the leftward diagonal break, and up this to a hotizontal break. Move right and up to a peg belay. Downclimb the offwidth to get off.

FA: Pat Butler, 1982

19Trad 10m
3 T.V. Glotzer

Miniscule. The flake formed crack on the boulder five metres left of 'Rangehen'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, 1982

16Trad 6m
4 White Cloud

The crack-cum-off-width around and left from 'Future Shock'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1987

16Trad 10m

1.4. The Fortress 16 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.960243, -35.461772


A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here.

A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.


Follow the track to a large clearing on the saddle. It is usually possible to drive to this point in a 2WD. The track continues uphill to 'The Jism' and 'Gibraltar Peak'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mushroom Outing

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'.

FA: Greg Lane and friends

Aid 5m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Night Fall

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

18Mixed 8m, 2
3 Anything'll Do

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch your seconds...

FA: Dave Sargent, Paul Mason, 1987

22Mixed 10m, 2
4 Carnage

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of No Fat Chicks. Sit start V5.

FA: B. Aikman, 2013

V3Trad 7m
5 No Fat Chicks

A slabby wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder. The bolted climb to the left, starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay has not been claimed, but goes at around 17 or 18. The bolt with the large hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder has also not been reported.

FA: Geoff Filmer, Damian Jovanovic, 1995

19Mixed 8m, 3
6 Fake Crack

Location: South-south-east of the mushroom; 30m around to the right from No Fat Chicks; in a short gully; right hand end of a mossy wall. Follows the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

21Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Offwidth left of Sentry Duty

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details

16Trad 10m
8 ** Sentry Duty

The obvious crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis, Damien Jones, 1975

15Trad 10m
9 * Apprentice's Edge

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux; originally three bolts, but six at last count.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Kean, 1986

24Sport 10m, 6
10 Flying Arkwright

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

16Trad 10m
11 Postern

On a small group of boulders some 30 metres east from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice climbing up the small right angled corner crack on the far (eastern) side.

FA: Matt Madin, Richard Watts, 1981

17Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next four climbs are on the isolated boulder 20 metres down and left (north) from the main 'mushroom' boulder.

12 Paternity Ward

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

16Trad 7m
13 Scratched Record

The wavey slab just left of Blood on His Lips. A high 1st bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off. Rebolted 2011.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

23Sport 10m, 2
14 * Blood on His Lips

The obvious thin crack, undercut at its base.

FA: R Curtis, J Finnegan, 1975

16Trad 10m
15 Flex

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

22Trad 10m
16 Unknown 1

5m right of Flex. Up past bolts.

Sport 10m

1.5. Snake Rock 41 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 148.953291, -35.479142


The original ACT Granite description: Slumped on the eastern side of the Corin Valley is an unimpressive pile of yellow/brown granite about to slide down into the creek. Close up, it's rather reminiscent of gritstone and has some classic short routes in the range 18-26 (complete with bolts, very unreminiscent of gritstone). A good alternative to 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Fortress' in winter. It is in the sun most of the day.

New description: Snake Rock has become a popular little spot for getting out and about, particularly during winter when you can make the most of full sunshine on the granite. With some additional routes having been put up in sport style in addition to the earlier trad routes, the crag is now suitable for a large range of experience and interests.

Just watch out if you're doing routes on the upper tier - consider slinging a rope to keep you from dropping off the ledge.


The crag is opposite the turn off to 'Gibraltar Peak', visible from the road. Drive about 3.9 kilometres down the Corin Road. Turn left at a yellow road sign (i.e. just before the 'Gibraltar Peak' turnoff. Drive down the dirt to the edge of the native bush and walk south along the pine forest boundary for 200 metres to a cairn, just as the track heads uphill. Walk down left through bush to cross the creek and then head uphill to the crag (about 10 minutes).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Small Things Amuse

This small slanting handcrack faces Gibralter Creek in a small tor slightly higher than and about 400m north of Snake Rock. It is probably the only climb here.

FA: John Wilson, Gary Ewart, 2005

15Trad 6m

1.5.1. Scooby 3 routes in Sector

All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scooby

FA: Willem Grant-Ryan, 2012

7Top rope 7m
2 Shaggy

FA: Willem Grant-Ryan, 2012

7Top rope 7m
3 Fashion Fairytale

FA: Ingrid Grant-Ryan

3Top rope 9m

1.5.2. Upper Tier 6 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Yohan

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

19Sport 7m
2 Usain

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

22Sport 7m
3 Asafa

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

21Sport 7m
4 Scaled

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

14Sport 7m
5 Non-Venomous

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

13Sport 7m
6 Twin Set

FA: Twin Set, 1997

18Trad 7m

1.5.3. Lower Tier 13 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Garden Lost

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

9Sport 7m
2 It Was Complicated

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

24Sport 10m
3 Conflict Therapy (hard start)

2m to the left of Little Cherie

FA: Justin Ryan, Lionel Meynadier, 2008

22Sport 10m, 4
4 Conflict Therapy (easy start)

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

19Sport 10m
5 Little Cherie

Up the nose of the lower left tier, just left of Puff Adder

FA: Lionel Meynadier, Justin Ryan, 2008

18Sport 10m, 4
6 Puff Adder

The crack system left of the orange streak. Was a thin trad lead; now a great sport climb.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

18Sport 7m, 4
7 Chasing Amy

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak. Either finish at the lower-off on the ledge, or follow the crack up through two more bulges (Twin Set).

FA: Jonathan Edwards, Jamie Valdivia (both led), 1997

24Trad 12m
8 Electra Luxx

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

24Sport 10m
9 Snakes and Ladders

The layback crack on the right hand side of the lower tier. Up the crack. Finish at the half-height anchor. Better than it looks.

FA: John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, Mike Peck, 1997

16Trad 12m
10 Snakes and Ladders direct finish

As for Snakes and Ladders, but from the anchor continue up the arete past two bolts to the top.

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, 1997

17Mixed 17m, 2
11 Jelly Bean

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

8Sport 7m
12 Wires In The Hand

FA: Dave Anderson-Smith, 2012

14Sport 7m
13 Energy Efficiency

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

17Sport 7m

1.5.4. The Ampitheatre 6 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bergenhardia

The short arete high up on the left of the ampitheatre. Take care clipping the second bolt.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

23Sport 5m, 2
2 * Copperhead

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

22Sport 7m
3 Legless Lizard

FA: Dave McGregor

11Sport 10m
4 Arrow of Time

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

5 * Slithering Sideways

FA: Dave Anderson-Smith, 2012

16Sport 12m
6 Slithering Direct

Set by Dave Anderson-Smith, 2013

FA: Thomas Polden, 2013

18Sport 12m

1.5.5. The Buttresss 12 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Adder

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

19Sport 10m, 4
2 Disco Cobra / Disco Disco

The orange arete right of BA and left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over rooflet. Start with the first one or two bolts clipped.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2008

26Sport 12m
3 ** Crawlin' King Snake

Superb sustained climbing, every move worthwhile. The obvious orange corner crack to a roof and bolt. Move right then finish back up the slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, 1997

23Mixed 15m, 2
4 King Cobra Link-up

Start as for Crawlin' King Snake. Traverse right along horizontal break on natural pro and finish up the Disco Cobra slab to top-out. Retro-trad run-out for purists.

23Trad 12m
5 Spitting Viper

A climb of two contrasting styles. Up the arete right of CKS. Bouldery start.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

26Sport 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Snake-in-the-Grass

The arete on the right hand side of the orange buttress past three bolts. Cam in break.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Eadie, 1997

20Mixed 15m, 3
7 * Reptilian

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#3-#4 metolius). Lower down Red Belly.

FA: D.McGregor, 2002

25Sport 13m, 5
8 ** Red Belly

The sustained thin corner right of Reptilian with two bolts at the finish (crux).

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, 1997

22Mixed 12m, 2
9 Pythonista

A good, hard climb if you can contrive it.

The arete right of Red Belly and left of OET.

Up the arete, avoiding the OET crack and its edges to the right. Optional small cam (#3 metolius) in break. Lower down Red Belly.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

24Sport 12m, 5
10 One Eyed Trousersnake

Take your #4 camalot and enjoy. The chimney/offwidth/layback.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

18Trad 10m
11 ** Snakeskin Shuffle

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past four bolts.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Easie, 1997

19Sport 12m, 4
12 Anacondan

Up the right side of the nose then arete, on bolts.

Alternatively, as for the first ascent - Up the corner to the right of the nose of SS (small cam / wires) to ledge (#7 nut / small cam). Up the right side of the arete past 2 bolts.

FA: Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 2012

20Sport 12m, 4

1.6. Bandito Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.944742, -35.474094


This newly found little crag sits just above the creek which formed it and became apparent to Chris Warner who developed most of the climbs, after the 2003 bushfires cleared the landscape. The rock quality here is excellent with some great routes at all grades. Probably the most accessible crag in Canberra. Look for a small fire trail on the right at the end of the left sweeping curve, well before the now accepted turnoff to Gibraltar Peak - keep an eye out for the creek gully and its passage under the road. Park 50m down the road and follow the faint track on the northern side of the creek for 5 minutes. Its hard to find first off.


Leave Corin Rd at Longitude148.94667, Latitude -35.47771. Park at Longitude 148.94618, Latitude -35.47600.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Spaghetti O's

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginners lead.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

10Trad 10m
2 * Blood for a Silver Dollar

Start a couple of metres right of 'Spaghetti O's'. Hard moves off the ground following seam then crack. Continue past 2 BRs to lower offs. Anchors and top BR replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

17Mixed 12m, 2
3 ** Django the Bastard

The crack just right of 'Blood for a Silver Dollar'. Step left at the top to use the same anchors.Take some smaller cams. No excuse if its wet...

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

18Trad 12m
4 ** Death Rides Alone

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard'.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

19Sport 15m, 6
5 Machine Gun Killers

Steep slab to the right of 'Death Rides Alone' that shares the same anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

23Sport 15m, 7
6 Project - Jamie Sport Project
7 Project - Chris

Will be a direct start to FAFDM

Sport Project
8 * For a Few Dollars More

Shares a start with 'Dollars for a Fast Gun', but heads left and follows the weakness.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

24Sport 16m, 6
9 *** Dollars for a Fast Gun

The very right hand line and the first you come to. Great balance move through onto the steep slab.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

23Sport 13m, 5

1.7. The Hideout 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.943890, -35.473511


A few gems at this tiny crag! When it is seeping at the sister cliff - Bandido Wall, you may find something drier to climb here. To find it, walk a further three minutes up the valley from Bandido.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** For a Fist in the Eye

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck, into and up the wide crack, obvious traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

12Trad 12m
2 * Hole in the Forehead

Start on the same block as FAFITE. Committing start to get established in the corner. Layback to glory. It is possible to step right to the AS anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

15Trad 10m
3 ** Adios Sabata

The left of the bolted lines. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

21Sport 15m, 4
4 * Vengeance is a Dish Best Served Cold

The right hand bolted line. Hard moves below last bolt with potentially bad fall consequences giving a satisfying lead. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

18Sport 14m, 5
5 Knuckle Fight

Start at twin cracks that lead into an obvious corner.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

16Trad 12m

1.8. Gibraltar Falls 5 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.934641, -35.486570


Quite a nice spot to cool down in summer after visiting 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Bank', with a natural sauna at the top of the falls. The actual rock is rather limited.

The area has been visited by every man and his dog over the years, due to the superb sealed access; some rusty machine nuts survive from the dark ages. While various climbs have been soloed, led or top-roped, no details survive and the following names and grades were from a reconnaissance trip before the most recent ACT Granite was printed.

There is a bouldering wall high on the far (eastern) side, slightly above the level of the top of the falls, with a wide range of cracks, chimneys and slab climbs.

For slightly more serious climbing, follow the tourists down to the lookout. The best climbing is on the wall below this; most routes can be top-roped. Abseil in or jump the fence and scramble down the blocky arete at the downstream end. Watch out for interference with belays and flying rocks; the spot is incredibly popular with abseilers. The bottom of the climbs can be wet if the water level is high.


Drive along Corin Road and turn left into the well marked car park above Woods Reserve.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Climbs are described from left to right on the western wall

1 * Offspring

Doesn't let up; the best of the lot here. Jump start (crux; it is also possible to traverse in from the right) to a horizontal break two metres left of 'Barbary Ape' and up the thin crack to a mantle (second crux). Finish up through the rooflets.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

20Trad 10m
2 Angel Wings

The broken crack system from the ground to the top, finishing up the flared chimney.

FA: Unknown

15Trad 15m
3 Tiny Teds

Start one metre right of 'Angel Wings'. Up the wall to a good undercling, then through the rooflet on good edges. Needs a bolt (climbed with a high runner in the crack).

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

17Trad 6m

The cliff opposite the lookout is broken, but there is some tolerable climbing at stream level opposite and slightly downstream. Described right to left.

4 Cinders

Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack.

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

14Trad 10m
5 Barbary Ape

Further left. Up the corner through a roof to the layback crack. Traverse right to a small tree to finish.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

19Trad 10m

1.9. Billy Billy 29 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.895616, -35.505583

Unique Features And Strengths:©

Excellent granite crack climbing across a range of grades, with a couple of stunning arêtes as well.


With sweeping vistas of the Brindabella Ranges and Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, Billy Billy Rocks offers far more than just your typical day clocking up mileage on granite in the ACT. This is granite crack climbing at its best in the territory, dragging you off the beaten track to a dramatic bush eyrie high above the Tidbinbilla valley.

Facing generally north to north west, climbing is possible here year round. The style is predominantly first-rate splitter cracks on boulders littered across the rocky tor, ranging from finger tips through hands to full body shredding off widths if that takes your fancy. The quality of crack to be found at Billy Billy is so good it had one international visitor exclaiming “this would be a three star route at J-Tree”.

The climbs are steep at Billy Billy, (steep for A.C.T. granite, at least). There are numerous cracks in the 11-23 range, a few airy arêtes in the low-mid 20’s and the potential for more finds awaiting you just around the corner…

Keep in mind this is a wilderness crag – phone reception is limited, the walking track in is rough (taking approx. 1 hour from car to crag) and the weather highly variable with the potential for four seasons in one day – keep an eye on the Mt Ginini forecast on the Bureau’s website. Come prepared with head torches, multiple clothing layers and a first aid kit, as well as a navigational device just in case (and know how to use it!).

The climbs all pack in plenty of value, so rope up and enjoy the unique experience that is everything Billy Billy Rocks, Canberra’s newest climbing destination.

Access Issues:©

Billy Billy straddles the boundary of Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and Namadgi National Park. Rock climbing is permitted both in Namadgi and under the Tidbinbilla plan of management, except at significant Aboriginal sites.


Drive up Corin Road, passing Gibraltar Falls and eventually crossing Billy Billy Creek (signposted). 200m beyond is an old blocked-off forestry road on the right, immediately before a 45km/h left-hand bend. Park here.

Walk up the old forestry road for 100m, leave the road (turning left) at a small cairn and grassy area. Head uphill and pick up the trail marked with orange tape (faint trail at first, become clearer after a while). Cairns mark the way through rocky sections. The trail goes up the spur for 700m, where you reach a rocky knoll about 8m high (and pass through the fat-arse filter). 500m further along the ridge you reach a flat rock platform with a view of the crag across the mini-valley. The trail then drops down a bit, heading towards the right-hand end of the crag, and crossing the headwaters of Billy Billy Creek (via a convenient log). After the creek crossing, and another uphill section, the trail deposits you at the awesome viewing spot of the Picnic Sector, from where you can look out over Tidbinbilla to Canberra.

Where To Stay:©

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve is designated a day use area. The nearest camping is at Woods Reserve, back down on the Corin Road.


This crag has been developed with an old-school trad and mixed ethic, bolts are not used when natural gear is available. Try to muster some common sense when deciding whether or not to bolt routes, nobody will walk up that hill to repeat no-star generic slabs.

Most of the cracks at Billy Billy have required extensive brushing to bring them up to a standard of cleanliness which is palatable to the average climber. Routes which are claimed but inadequately cleaned are likely to have the f.a. details "lost", and naming rights handed over to the person who puts in the hard work. Also, if you stumble upon an unrecorded route which is spotlessly clean (and especially if you see a pile of lichen at the base), there's a fair chance that it's somebody else's unfinished business. Whilst there isn't such a thing as a closed crack project, be aware that "brushing debt" is taken rather seriously and must be repaid in full (I'm looking at you, Nick Brown!)

1.9.1. Picnic 10 routes in Sector

Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.897449, -35.505429


The area at which you first arrive via the walk-in track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Not My Nirvana

Mantle onto the pillar, then up the finger and hand crack.

FA: Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 7th Jun

19Trad 10m
2 ** Kneel before Zod!

“Quite possibly the best tips crack this side of the black stump”. Would be three stars but for the down market location and cheating potential. Hidden on a wall in the chimney on the other side of “Cold in July” and approached deviously from the other side of this.

Finger sized gear from #0.3 to #0.5 camalots (mostly around #0.4) or equivalent. Bolt belay/rap.

To achieve the glory (and the grade) use of the opposing chimney wall is banned i.e. start directly off the chockstones at its base NOT off the ledge on the wall immediately behind you. Finish up the easy brushed slab where the crack curves to horizontal a few metres below the top.

And no whinging about water ice on the wall next to the crack and 2 inches of snow on the starting chockstone and on the top slab - it hasn’t been climbed any other way.

So get off your knees, kiss your tips, say goodbye and it’ll all be over in less time than it takes you to read the route description.

FA: Dave McGregor, 20th Jul

22Trad 15m
3 ** Cold in July

The prominent corner crack with flared start.

FA: B. Aikman, D. McGregor, 13th Jul

22Trad 15m
4 * Just a Tease

The clean off-width problem just left of the entrance to the 'No Respect' alcove.

FA: 20th Jul

V3Boulder 5m
5 No Respect

Hidden in a little alcove, reached by walking through an enclosed chimney then scrambling up a metre. Bouldery start followed by pleasant crack climbing. Rap off.

FA: Nick Brown, 2014

22Trad 15m
6 Lichenstein

Up slab past two bolts, then up a corner crack. #0.75, #1 and #2 camalots. Tree belay.

FA: Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 24th May

15Mixed 15m, 2
7 * Caribbean Queen

Up right-trending crack and ramp. Take multiples of #2 and #3 camalots

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 2014

17Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Swing the Billy

A slabby arete. Start on the flat area on the eastern side of the 'Caribbean Queen' chimney. Bridge up a move and clip a bolt on the wedged boulder. Climb onto it then lean across and clip the second bolt. Up delicately, right to the arete and up. Rap off.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 17th May

20Sport 10m, 5
9 Swing the Billy left hand variant

As for 'Swing the Billy' but finish up the sloping ramp.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Dave McGregor, 31st May

20Sport 10m, 5
10 Mega Tokyo

P1 15m (18). Start in the cave below and 10m back from the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Boulder up onto the wall. At the top crawl through a hole and scramble up onto boulders to bolt belay.

P2 20m (24). Up the arete past 7 bolts to chains. Rap off.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story (P1), 2014

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius (P2), 24th May

24Sport 30m, 9

1.9.2. Innocence 6 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.896186, -35.506166


From the top of Carribean Queen in the Picnic sector, follow sporadic cairns and tape west towards the summit, winding between the boulders on the ridgetop. Initially follow the contour for 30m then go up a wide rocky gully. Veer right at the top of this then double back through a chimney corridor. This emerges into a camping overhang ( not as waterproof as you'd hope). Follow the contour through the trees for another 50m or so.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Agent Orange Victim

Layback and slab up the corner.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 10th May

11Trad 12m
2 Yayco

Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang.

FA: Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 17th May

3Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Why Does It Always Rain On Me

The short but interesting finger and hand crack on the left end of the main wall.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 10th May

17Trad 8m
4 72 Virgins

The good looking double crack/flake right of "why does it always rain on me". Unfortunately a large flake on the route is loose (all the large blocks on the ground were trundled by hand). Deemed "not worth dying for" by the discoverers, it received a first ascent by a team of keen young suicide bombers. Be careful with the last big flake in the upper crack until the Billy Billy oh+s dept. gets around to trundling it.

FA: Ben Young, Chris Elliot, 19th Jul

18Trad 15m

The following routes are located in a gully further right. The best way to reach them is to follow the track from 'Why Does It Always Rain On Me' downhill for 20m, left along the contour for 20m, then back up the gully.

5 * Oops I Did It Again!

Nice hand and fist crack with an interesting finish.

FA: Nick Brown, Jamie Valdivia and Enzo Giuarino, 6th Jul

17Trad 8m
6 *** Christmas in July

A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot.

FA: Oliver Story, Carl Godfrey, 13th Jul

22Mixed 15m, 3

1.9.3. Sarah's Cracks 2 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.894441, -35.505650


From the Innocence sector follow a track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. At the 150m mark the track splits; the upper gully goes to the western end of the outcrop and the Sector of a Lonely Heart. Keep trending diagonally downhill to reach Sarah's Cracks.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Nice Day for a White Wedding

Perfect hand crack.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, 24th May

17Trad 15m
2 ** Piano Man

Hand and finger crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Sarah Truscott, 24th May

19Trad 12m

1.9.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart 4 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.895174, -35.506499


The first area "found" by climbers, with some excellent cracks. Stays in the shade through winter, when it takes a few days to dry out after rain.


Initially as for Sarah's Cracks.From the Innocence sector follow a track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. At the 150m mark the track splits; the lower track goes to Sarah's Cracks. Take the upper wide gully to the western end of the outcrop. Keep skirting round the boulders to reach Sector of a Lonely Heart.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Hearts and Bones

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Justin Ryan, 12th Jun

23Trad 18m
2 Jaime's project

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête. Many hours of labour expended by the discoverer to clean this one, please stay off until it gets opened up.

Set by Jaime Valdivia

Trad Project 15m
3 ** Heartbreak Hotel

Fingers. Double finger-sized cams, a few wires, and #2 and #3 camalots to belay.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 17th May

21Trad 18m
4 ** Woodcutters

The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and something for the belay.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Jamie Valdivia, Oliver Story, 2014

17Trad 8m

1.9.5. Clubs 2 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.895557, -35.504938

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Puffing Billy

The imposing overhanging corner crack. Bridge up the right hand wall for a few moves on positive face holds, then into the overhanging hand crack. The angle eases off a little for the offwidth / layback finish. Camalots to #5, with doubles of #1-#3. A #6 camalot can be pre-placed with a stick to protect the start.

FA: Oliver Story, Cam Zachreson, Chris Ling, 8th Jun

21Trad 18m
2 Project

The arête right of Puffing Billy.

Sport Project 20m, 8

1.9.6. Sling Blade 2 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.894114, -35.504409

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sling Blade

A nice fingery flake-crack. Take two or three yellow aliens plus a purple camalot. Tree belay well back.

FA: Chris Ling, Cam Zachreson, 7th Jun

19Trad 12m
2 *** Big-mouthed Bass Crack

An amazingly clean and sustained hand crack. Take enough red camalots (or equivalent) for the whole length of the climb.

FA: Cam Zachreson, Oliver Story, Chris Ling, 8th Jun

17Trad 10m

1.9.7. Hipster Billy 3 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.892236, -35.507067


"This is what Billy Billy used to be like back in May 2014, before the crowds arrived" - One Day Hero, 10th June 2014 [Editors note: 4 people were seen climbing at the main crag that day]


From Sarah's Cracks walk right/west, contouring across a wide gully, to an outcrop on the sunny side of a small knoll.

Descent Notes:©

Walk off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ground Hog Day

Curving finger to hand crack.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 19th Jul

17Trad 15m
2 ** The Life Aquatic

The hand-crack to off-width inside the chimney. Take a #5 and a #6 camalot

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott, 19th Jul

15Trad 18m
3 ** Brushed But Not Forgotten

Hand crack up a corner. Take double #2 and #3 camalot, and optional #4 for the top.

FA: Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, 19th Jul

17Trad 15m

1.10. White Horse Rocks 17 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.943800, -35.519761

Unique Features And Strengths:©

A pleasant, if isolated little crag situated at the head of 'Punchbowl Creek' and overlooking Booroomba Homestead.


Climbs are described from left to right. There is a rap anchor at the top of the main wall, above 'Black Satin Lingerie'.


Drive out on the Corin Road past the Gibraltar Peak turnoff and turn left onto the second track after crossing Gibraltar Creek. Follow the track up to a T-junction and turn right, passing a large clearing. Turn left at the next intersection, then turn left again; follow this track, next to a log-filled creek on the right for some way then take two sharp right turns and climb out of the gully. Park at the T-intersection on the edge of the pine plantation. A low saddle can be seen between two peaks to the southeast. White Horse Rocks are just out of sight on the northeast side of the left-hand peak. Cross the fence, then the creek and bushbash to the top of the left-hand hill. A very crude track has been bulldozed down the hill from the crag, but it does not reach the pine forest; follow it up after you stumble across it. The walk to the rocks, just over the lip, should take about fifteen minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The first two climbs are on an isolated buttress 200 metres down the ridge from the main crag.

1 Nothing Too Serious

The obvious hand-sized layback crack.

FA: Mark Sands, David Jenkins, 1987

18Trad 15m
2 Better Luck Next Time

Up the corner two metres right of 'Nothing Too Serious' - use the left wall, then the arete.

FA: David Jenkins, Mark Sands, 1987

17Trad 15m
3 Knuckles

The surprisingly tricky crack at the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a spacious ledge then up the short corner crack. Move right to finish below the hanging blocks.

FA: Dick Curtis, Mike Todd, Tony Wood, John Spahr, 1975

15Trad 15m
4 False Start

The groove four metres down from 'Knuckles'. Bouldery start is the crux.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1983

22Trad 12m
5 Friendly Persuasion

Start below a grassy recess left of 'Gibber Tari', and follow the crack and chimney before traversing right to finish.

FA: Dick Curtis, John Spahr, 1975

12Trad 22m
6 Gibber Tari

Off-width chimney with a bulge at two-thirds height, down and left from 'Transience'.

FA: Joe Friend, John Lamb, 1979

17Trad 18m
7 Transience

Start at the corner around 10m from 'Short Shrift'. Climb up for two metres, then right around the arete and up the short crack and dirty groove.

FA: Adam Blizzard, John Churchill, 1986

17Trad 20m
8 Short Shrift

V-shaped chimney. Exit left.

FA: Mike Todd, Tony Wood, 1975

10Trad 10m
9 Dragon

Off-width crack just left of 'Blue Wind'.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ian "Sam" Baker, John Stone, 1978

18Trad 25m
10 ** Blue Wind

Steep and sustained, the obvious line on the main wall. Shares a start with 'Blue Velvet'.

FA: Damien Jones, Paul Daniel, 1978

20Trad 23m
11 * Blue Velvet

A technical but well-protected traverse. Start as for 'Blue Wind' for 5 metres, then head right past four bolts. Traverse right from the ledge to belay as for 'Short Soup'.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

24Sport 20m, 4
12 ** Black Satin Lingerie

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts.

FA: Simon Carter, 1991

26Sport 20m, 6
13 Short Soup

Crack left of 'Cratercritter'. Originally done in two pitches.

FA: Dick Curtis, Peter Mills, 1975

18Trad 15m
14 Cratercritter

Offwidth crack. Requires big pro - stacked hexes (at the time). The impressive flake-formed off-width left of 'Stormbringer'.

FA: John Stone, 1978

17Trad 20m
15 Stormbringer

Two metres left of 'Skewer'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1986

20Trad 10m
16 Skewer

Short and sharp - finish up a short slab section. The wall with two bolts a couple of metres left of 'Johnny Walker'.

FA: Andrew Kean, Mike Peck, 1986

19Mixed 12m, 2
17 Johnny Walker

Wide crack at the right hand side of the crag.

FA: Tony Wood, Mike Todd, 1975

10Trad 12m

1.11. The Bank 16 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.911226, -35.527251

Unique Features And Strengths:©

A pleasant bushland setting makes The Bank a good destination for a short day's outing.


A small collection of short, fun routes on the boulder strewn ridge above the walking track to 'Square Rock'.


The Bank is on the ridgetop immediately south of Smokers Gap. Park at the Smokers Gap car park (one kilometre beyond the Corin Forest slide), cross the road and head up the 'Square Rock' walking trail. This initially zig-zags upwards through small boulders before trending steadily up and rightwards. Where the track veers right, just before the top of the ridge, a large boulder with an impressive left curving crack becomes visible 50 metres or so above and left. Walking time from the car park is about 15 minutes.

The boulders continue northwards along the ridge for about 300 metres. At the end of the ridge is a large group of boulders with a fireplace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Lure

The leftwards leaning crack seen from the path, reminiscent of 'Easy Wind' ('Legoland'), but harder. Flared jams and strenuous to protect. Now slightly overgrown.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1995

24Trad 12m
2 Cintride

The rounded arete and face just right of 'The Lure' with four bolts. Sharp on the tips.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1995

23Sport 10m, 4
3 * Captain Crystal

The slabby nose on the next boulder right of 'Cintride'. Up past two bolts then traverse delicately rightwards past two more bolts. Some thin moves.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

24Sport 12m, 4
4 Walk the Dog

The chimney right of 'The Lure' with some protection in a leftwards crack. Ugh.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

12Trad 10m
5 Captain Crystal's Right Trouser Leg

The short open corner 5 metres right of 'Captain Crystal' with one bolt. Finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Paul Daniel, Mick O'Halloran, 1995

20Mixed 9m, 1
6 Return of the Leaping Lounge Lizards

On the boulder directly below 'The Lure' is a pleasant slabby groove with a harder start. A lovely line and fun climbing.

FA: Liz Milbourne, Catherine Eadie, 1995

14Trad 8m
7 Low Interest

On a wavy slab 30 metres left of 'The Lure'. Up the middle; a delightful slab with an enhanced wire placement.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1995

14Trad 8m
8 Pixie Power

The far side of a boulder 30 metres to the left of, and just downhill from 'Low Interest', sports a right facing, dainty little corner crack offering fingerlocking and stemming moves.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

18Trad 8m

Above and left of 'Low Interest', near the top of this outcrop, is a short slab on the northern side with the following two climbs.

9 Pygmy Chicken

The righthand line with two bolts. Pleasant face climbing.

FA: Catherine Eadie, Paul Daniel, 1995

16Mixed 10m, 2
10 Rubbery Tuk-awah!

Starts at a block on the left wall. Pull right onto the arete and then up, passing one bolt. The direct finish up the arete would be recommended if it had another bolt.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

17Mixed 8m, 1
11 Pixies and Dickywackers

Behind and right from 'Pygmy Chicken' and 'Rubbery Tuk-awah' is another tier of boulders. This route is on the left wall of a chimney in the centre of the tier.

A bouldery start to the first bolt then good moves past one more to the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

20Mixed 10m, 2

From 'The Lure' outcrop, scattered boulders lead gently up the ridge for about 100 metres to the 'Spider's Web' - "a spiritual place" [Paul Daniel]. This is a large flat arena ringed with boulders and covered in a tangle of stringybark trunks.

12 Throw It Out With the Cheese

The bolted, slabby arete on the right hand side of a boulder at the northern end of the 'Spider's Web'.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

16Trad 6m
13 Unknown

The dyke just to the left of 'Throw it Out With the Cheese'. Was still a project in 1996 - has anyone claimed it yet?

Sport Project 2
14 Photo Finish

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1996

23Trad 10m

From the 'Spider's Web' area continue about 50 metres north along the ridge and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder to arrive at a final collection of boulders.

15 Sausage Crack

Continue about 50 metres further northwards along the ridge from the 'Spider's Web' and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder.

The nice finger crack on the northern side of the outcrop on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

19Trad 8m
16 Zanadu

Sic. The beautiful overhanging seam on the downhill side of the westernmost boulders of the final group, opposite 'Sausage Crack'.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

M3Aid 10m

1.12. Square Rock 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.887318, -35.536691


In a great position and some good climbs, but a very long walk. Continue along the Square Rock walking trail beyond The Bank, staggering past assorted tourists. The walk in takes about an hour (yes you can slog straight up from Corin Road, but this isn't recommended either). Eventually you will arrive at Square Rock, thoughtfully provided with access stairs. To the right of the stairs is a large boulder and on the west face is are the following climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Changing the Guard

Good overhanging face on ironstone jugs with three bolts. Throw the rope off the boulder and have your second tie it off to a tree in order to escape.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Mike Peck, 1995

24Sport 10m, 3
2 Ostrich Mentality

The short crack to the left with an awkward, undercut start about ten metres right.

FA: Phil Junne, Julie Jefferis, 1995

18Trad 8m
3 Cowboys Are My Weakness

Starting off the platform on north facing wall. A good thin face past three bolts to an overhanging finish, sharp on the tips.

FA: Julie Jefferis, 1995

22Sport 12m, 3
4 * Smokin!

Open chimney to the left of the main buttress.

FA: Nicholas Reese (solo), 2008

10Trad 6m
5 Unknown off-width

Below and further left of Ostrich Mentality.

FA: Mike Law-Smith


1.13. Tidbinbilla 6 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.937689, -35.444195


This area comprises the small granite outcrops within the Tidbinbilla valley and upper margins. The valley is to the north and west of and below Gibralter Peak and includes routes and boulder problems from near Tidbinbilla Deep Space Tracking Station along the Tidbinbilla Road to somewhere abreast of Gibralter Peak.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pure Poison

Along the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve road are many small and some larger granite boulders. This climb is on the obvious "coffe bean" boulder 400m behind the reserve vistors centre. It is the wide crack clearly visible on the main face.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1979

19Trad 10m
2 Abattoir

Another fine jam crack about three metres right of Pure Poison.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1979

16Trad 7m
3 * Unnatural Acts

To get to this and the following lines, follow the road into the reserve and take the first turn right to a picnic area. Boulders can be seen from the carpark.

The main line under the roof. Climb the slab past a bolt to the roof, undercling left and up a crack to finish.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1982

19Mixed 15m, 1
4 Milk Teeth

The crack about 10 metres right of Unnatural Acts starting (crux) next to a tree. Up the crack and straight on up the fang above.

FA: Dominic Monypenny, Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1987

17Trad 10m
5 Quartz

There is a boulder in the scrub 30 metres directly downhill from the main cluster of boulders on Turkey Hill. At the righthand end on the river side is a curving hand crack.

The cracks further left have been soloed.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, Paul Daniel, 1991

21Trad 10m
6 Unknown finger crack

About 500 metres past the Visitor's Centre, a finger crack on the left has been climbed.

FA: John Smart, Mike Law-Smith


1.14. Pierce's Creek 27 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.926797, -35.366421


White boulders (used to) stand out prominently among the pines on the right as you drive out on Paddy's River Road towards Tidbinbilla. This is a good rallying area and a good bouldering area with a few short climbs. Most of the climbs described here have been engulfed by pine regrowth and are only recorded here to stop some 'passing cockroach's' attempts at glory. 'Mercenary Swine', 'Matricide' and 'Tarred and Feathered' are the only worthwhile climbs, and probably the only ones you will find.

At the time of the second edition of the ACT Granite Guide, the Tidbinbilla pine forest (closer to Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve) had been logged and many boulders revealed, but no new routes were reported, just a ton of boulder problems!


Drive out on the Cotter Road, across the Cotter River and on towards Tidbinbilla, continuing for about 2.5 km after the river. Take the well used track right at the Pierce's Creek Forest sign, No Through Road (the Sugarloaf, a prominent conical hill, can be seen on the right). A few hundred metres along was a now-vanished corrugated iron hut on the left. Keep on the main track and after about 2km you should see a prominent boulder strewn hillside on the left. Keep on the main track - don't cross the fence into the pines. At the crest turn left onto a track down the ridge, veering left after about 100 metres. Stop after a few hundred metres at the knoll before a right turn. The large, hidden boulder 20 metres down the ridge on the left offers no climbing, but a crack splits the next boulder downhill. On the Canberra side is a (now possibly) unclimbed offwidth, but on the other side is Mercenary Swine.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rising Star

Looking back to the main track from the knoll, a group of small boulders could once be seen in a gully. This is the short line.

FA: Colin Coleman, 1980

16Trad 10m
2 * Tarred and Feathered

The second crack. The best line at Pierce's Creek, but mean on the hands. The flaky ramp and hand crack splitting the nice wall left and around the corner. It was first climbed with the assistance of a pine tree.

FFA: Peter Fisk, John Carlson, 1980

FA: Rob Topfer, Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1980

19Trad 15m
3 Gripped Off Me Scon

The track continues gradually rightwards around the broad ridge and the valley on the left closes in. The track soon turns left at a damp gully crossing and descends on the other side of the valley beneath pine forest. A few large boulders once showed in the pines above the road 200 metres along from the damp gully. On the right-hand boulder is this climb. Previously world famous as the name of the ACT's Pritkin Climbing Rag. The hand crack with the wide finish.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1981

16Trad 12m
4 Good Things Come in Small Packages

The thin, leaning finger crack on the boulder on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

23Trad 8m
5 Never Again

The obvious crackline on the large boulder (facing Canberra) 15 metres behind 'Good Things Come in Small Packages'. An off-width crux.

FA: Ken Luck, Adam Blizzard, Andrew Bentley, 1988

20Trad 12m
6 Trivia

On a small boulder nearby to 'Never Again'. Up onto the small slab, right across a small wall and onto the main slab to finish a small climb.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1980

14Trad 10m
7 Tensor

Things now get worse... Follow the track downhill to an intersection, turn right and keep rallying back uphill through the pines. You may eventually come back out onto the cleared ridgeline to the main access road. Turn back right onto it and continue until nearly back to the original narrow turnoff to the knoll. There is a small group of boulders in the water catchment area on the opposite side of the road to the knoll.

FA: Peter Fisk, Steve Raiser, 1980

18Trad 7m
8 Matricide

Continuing from the knoll, the track veers right and plunges downhill for a short distance. When it levels out, at the intersection with the original ridge track, a collection of large boulders can be seen on the uphill side. The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it, one of which is Matricide. The slightly overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start, directly facing the track. It was found to be 20 after a flake was dislodged from the start.

FA: Rob Topfer, Lucas Trihey, 1981

20Trad 12m

1.14.1. Kazbah 16 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.932562, -35.371984

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great granite blocs of a size suitable for some real tradding.


Named to coincide with the bouldering area of the same name, holding some old (and possibly destroyed) boulder problems. Home to a climb put up by Chris Warner (but not yet freed) called 'The Riff'. Note: this is really not a summer crag, other than in early morning. It gets full day sun. Also please consider wearing a helmet as there is a lot of friable rock in the area that has not been cleaned up.


From the parking spot (see map) it is a 20-30 metre walk to the boulders. There is a lot of scrub around so it is quite difficult to see the boulders and to navigate around.


There are no bolts in this area. Pierce's Creek is an area that has traditionally been approached with a trad ethic, much like the rest of Canberra. This is not to say that unprotectable lines should/could not be bolted, but please get in contact with the CCA (or discuss with some local climbers) first.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Riff

Flaring crack into a seam and then several hook moves to gain the horizontal crack and stepping right and up using the horizontal crack. May go direct as well. Overhangs 4 metres in 15. Would be difficult to free due to the flaring crack, but could be possible at high 20's or over.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

A2+Aid 20m
2 *** Flypast Crack

Start at a cruxy corner/chimney move on smears to get going, then up through the ascending corner crack. Due to its orientation the crack does a good job of trying to spit you out. Two definite cruxes, one is turning the corner down low and the last is the offwidth move off stacked hands at the top. A bit of everything all packed into a very short space. Still exfoliating a bit so a helmet for the belayer might be a good idea, and watch your ankles on the first move.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

E3 6aTrad 15m
3 No Warmup

A top-rope boulder problem, or X rated boulder problem (if you fall right you're going for a 15 metre tumble), or solo for an idiot. Step from a ledge halfway up the crack and then follow the increasingly shallow rib. Very short, breaking down into around V1, V4 then V7 moves consecutively and roughly V10 for the top-out (nicer to do with your anchor over the edge and climbing to the anchor). May have been climbed before, but exfoliated significantly, presumably because of the fires so no ascents in ten years or more. Grade's a rough guess. First ascent on top rope, go ahead and free(solo) it. Not really possible from the ground.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Top rope 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Lovewidth

Climb delicately up, bridging until the 4 metre mark where you can set the first gear. Continue up the proper offwidth either by flailing about or with the grace of a gazelle, depending on your preference. You will need something big, i.e. a #5/6 BD or something similar. The crack is a constant width so bumping one piece is an option, but be aware it exfoliates.

FA: David Nott, 2013

18Trad Project 9m
5 Spider House Traverse

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse right through a thin finger crack section, smearing, and up through a hands/fist crack to finish. Be careful of the exfoliating rock underneath your feet, there's still a lot coming off. Quite pleasant.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

16Trad 9m
6 Spider House Direttisima

A slab start to the offwidth finish of Spider House Traverse. Project, needs cleaning and will be reasonably difficult. Unprotectable for the first 5 metres.

Trad Project 9m
7 Spider House Extension

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse the full length of the boulder. There's a great rest ledge between the two slabs but it's a little steeper at the end. Careful of the friable foot-and-handholds. Takes good gear.

FA: David Nott, 2013

17Trad 15m
8 Project 1

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

Trad Project
9 Project 2

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

10 Project 3

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

11 Project 4

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

12 Project 5

The huge chimney. You may need to be lowered in to climb out (you have been warned). Fire-damaged so there's a lot of soot at the top. There's two big chocks to belay off up the top.

Trad 20m
13 Access Route

Solo up the back of the block with 'The Riff' and 'Flypast Crack' to a big chock, where you can set up a belay (or further down, depending on what you want to do). Be careful, if you're walking along the crackline it is a bit vegetated where it thins out.

4Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Trail Bike Wankers

Pure guess as to the grade. Will be extremely hard to free - there are no footers in the upper crack after cleaning removed the impact of the fires. Smear and beg. Start higher up and step across or the lower start adds 3 metres and probably a few grades.

FA: David Nott, 2014

29Trad 8m
15 Farewell to Arms

Curved sickle crack which slabs out at the top but the transition is funky. You may want a BD #5 to finish up the offwidth.

FA: David Nott, 2014

18Trad 10m
16 The Sorry Boulder

Slightly highball chimney problem. Exit out the back.

FA: David Nott, 2014

V0Boulder 6m

1.14.2. Blackwater 3 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.927407, -35.366698


Where else would Mercenary Swine hang out other than Blackwater?


See the map for the area location. If you can find the parking for 'Tumblers' (the bouldering area), you then walk down the lefthand road until it is blocked off by rocks, turn left (do not continue straight!) and follow the winding road to an intersection, then bush-bash your way in until you find a set of large boulders. Mercenary Swine is on the downhill side.

Descent Notes:

You will either need to leave gear or rap off the 2x4 to get off 'Mercenary Swine'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mercenary Swine

The fierce finger and hand crack with a huge flake on the left to start. At least, it used to have a huge flake. Now that is completely detached, and the arete has been destroyed after the fires as well. There's no way to walk off this boulder - either rap off gear or the 2x4 generously left behind. If you trust it.

FA: Robert Topfer, 1980

21Trad 15m
2 Offwidth on other side of Mercenary

Grade is a best guess based on feedback from someone who's climbed 'Mercenary Swine'. May have been climbed before.

20Trad 15m
3 Offwidth project

Could go as a boulder problem, assuming someone is willing to down-climb it. Up the wide to start then thinning off-width. Possibly too big for most gear.

Trad 6m

1.15. Watt's Wall 5 routes in Crag

Aid and Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:©

"It does have one good route"


A porphyry/rhyodacite crag in Pierce's Creek - if you can find it.


Turn right at the corrugated iron shed on the way into Pierce's Creek, and follow the winding road to the other side of The Sugarloaf. Turn left, ford Pierce's Creek past a picnic area on your right and head uphill for 150 metres. Turn right then veer left and park at the bottom near the creek. Bushbash or wade downstream for about 5 minutes until you see (at the base of the waterfall) one of the less noteworthy porphyry/rhyodacite crags in the ACT, whereupon you go home (it does have one good route).


Development in the area was mainly undertaken in the mid-80's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Never Get Famous

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

  1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

  2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

FA: Matt Madin, Bill Begg

18Trad 50m
2 Too Loose Lautrec Finish

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave MacGregor, 1985

22 M0Aid 20m
3 Discount for Heroes

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

  1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

  2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

FA: Dave McGregor, Matt Madin, 1985

23 M1Aid 35m
4 Hanging Around Here

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

  1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

  2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt.), 1985

21Trad 45m
5 Six Blade Knife

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

FA: Ben Jones, David Lyons, 1989

22 M1Aid 25m

1.16. Phantom Buttress 7 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.999529, -35.529815


This is the fairly extensive outcrop seen from Canberra (but not Booroomba), on the hillside north of 'Booroomba Rocks', on the opposite side of Blue Gum Creek. The access is epic, so the area is very rarely visited. Turn right at Tharwa and then left at the fork to get to the private Booroomba Homestead - ask permission before proceeding. Note that permission is not always given.


Walk up Blue Gum Creek along a fire trail until almost directly below the cliffs, then bushbash uphill for an hour or so... (the alternative access, via Mt Tennent and the Bushfold Flats is even worse!)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ghost Who Walks

Recommended, if you've got this far. Start 6 metres left of L.W.F, below two parallel cracks. Climb up to, then up these to the top.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

15Trad 40m
2 Lest We Forget

Horrible, vegetated, dirty and usually wet - a sandbag at the grade. The obvious corner on the steep wall at the left end of the cliff.

  1. 15 metres - Up the corner to belay in the cave.

  2. 30 metres - Continue up until it is possible to escape left.

  3. 10 metres - Traverse left to slabs.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

11Trad 55m

The short steep crack above the cave on 'Lest We Forget'. Two rests due to incompetence.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

19 M0Aid 15m
4 High Spirits

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

  1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

  2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Collins (alt.), Adam Blizzard, 1989

18Trad 60m
5 Flying Phantom

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

16Trad 40m
6 Blue Gum

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo)

16Trad 60m
7 Only The Lonely

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

  1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

  2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Damien Jones (alt.), 1975

18Trad 80m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Fashion Fairytale Top rope 9m 1.5.1. Scooby
Yayco Trad 6m 1.9.2. Innocence
4 Access Route Trad 6m 1.14.1. Kazbah
6 The First Echidna Trad 10m 1.1.15. Non-Descript Boulder
7 Scooby Top rope 7m 1.5.1. Scooby
Shaggy Top rope 7m 1.5.1. Scooby
8 The Groove Trad 20m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Jelly Bean Sport 7m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
9 A Garden Lost Sport 7m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
10 Lengthways Chinaman Trad 15m 1.1.1. Trackside
The Lecher Trad 20m 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
* Spaghetti O's Trad 10m 1.6. Bandito Wall
Johnny Walker Trad 12m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Short Shrift Trad 10m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
* Smokin! Trad 6m 1.12. Square Rock
11 Legless Lizard Sport 10m 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
** Agent Orange Victim Trad 12m 1.9.2. Innocence
Lest We Forget Trad 55m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
12 Blue Stumps Trad 10m 1.1.1. Trackside
Cheesecake Trad 15m 1.1.3. Frenchies
Get Your Motors Running Mixed 20m, 2 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
** For a Fist in the Eye Trad 12m 1.7. The Hideout
Friendly Persuasion Trad 22m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Walk the Dog Trad 10m 1.11. The Bank
13 Crack of Ionic Finger Strength Trad 10m 1.1.1. Trackside
Blagdon P2 Trad 15m 1.1.4. Juveniles area
Tiptoe Trad 25m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
The Squeeze Trad 50m 1.1.14. Monkey Level
No Stone Unturned Trad 10m 1.2. Pox Rox
Non-Venomous Sport 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
14 Dubious Tactics Trad 15m 1.1.1. Trackside
JAM (Just Another Megaroute) Trad 15m 1.1.4. Juveniles area
My Name is Luka Sport 15m, 1 1.1.11. Skippy's Slab area
The Seventh Hedgehog Trad 20m 1.1.15. Non-Descript Boulder
Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians Trad 10m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Snow Storm Trad 10m 1.2. Pox Rox
Scaled Sport 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
Wires In The Hand Sport 7m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Cinders Trad 10m 1.8. Gibraltar Falls
Low Interest Trad 8m 1.11. The Bank
Return of the Leaping Lounge Lizards Trad 8m 1.11. The Bank
Trivia Trad 10m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
15 Fun Climb Mixed 20m, 3 1.1.4. Juveniles area
* Juveniles and Geriatrics Mixed 30m, 5 1.1.4. Juveniles area
Blagdon Trad 80m 1.1.6. No Glove
No Easy Street Trad 30m 1.1.6. No Glove
Piglets in Paradise Trad 24m 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Piltdown Man Trad 15m 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Skippy's Slab Mixed 12m, 1 1.1.11. Skippy's Slab area
Easy Rider Sport 31m, 5 1.1.12. Egg Cave
No Reservations Trad 5m 1.2. Pox Rox
Snow Flake Trad 12m 1.2. Pox Rox
** Sentry Duty Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Small Things Amuse Trad 6m 1.5. Snake Rock
* Hole in the Forehead Trad 10m 1.7. The Hideout
Angel Wings Trad 15m 1.8. Gibraltar Falls
Lichenstein Mixed 15m, 2 1.9.1. Picnic
** The Life Aquatic Trad 18m 1.9.7. Hipster Billy
Knuckles Trad 15m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
* Ghost Who Walks Trad 40m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
V0 The Sorry Boulder Boulder 6m 1.14.1. Kazbah
16 Kate's Bush Trad 10m 1.1.1. Trackside
Jihad Chimney Trad 14m 1.1.3. Frenchies
Rite of Passage Trad 30m 1.1.6. No Glove
* Flip, Flop, Fly Sport 5m, 2 1.1.8. Knife Edge Boulder
** Nail Biter Trad 10m 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
White Rabbit Sport 10m, 2 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Ape Trad 40m 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Captain America Trad 12m 1.1.15. Non-Descript Boulder
Low Hydrogen Trad 13m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Much Man Trad 12m 1.2. Pox Rox
Umbalah Crack Trad 8m 1.2. Pox Rox
T.V. Glotzer Trad 6m 1.3. The Jism
White Cloud Trad 10m 1.3. The Jism
* Blood on His Lips Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Flying Arkwright Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Offwidth left of Sentry Duty Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Paternity Ward Trad 7m 1.4. The Fortress
Snakes and Ladders Trad 12m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
* Slithering Sideways Sport 12m 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
Knuckle Fight Trad 12m 1.7. The Hideout
Pygmy Chicken Mixed 10m, 2 1.11. The Bank
Throw It Out With the Cheese Trad 6m 1.11. The Bank
Abattoir Trad 7m 1.13. Tidbinbilla
Gripped Off Me Scon Trad 12m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
Rising Star Trad 10m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
Spider House Traverse Trad 9m 1.14.1. Kazbah
Blue Gum Trad 60m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
Flying Phantom Trad 40m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
17 * Heckmondwike Twist Trad 20m 1.1.3. Frenchies
* Labor Pains Sport 15m, 3 1.1.4. Juveniles area
Dear Prudence Trad 25m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Holy Guacamole Sport 5m, 2 1.1.8. Knife Edge Boulder
Goony Waltz Sport 10m, 2 1.1.11. Skippy's Slab area
* Who's Better, Who's Best Sport 12m, 3 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Faint Hearted Trad 14m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Locomotion Trad 8m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Mario and the Blue Angels Trad 15m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
One for the Road Trad 8m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Postern Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Energy Efficiency Sport 7m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Snakes and Ladders direct finish Mixed 17m, 2 1.5.3. Lower Tier
* Blood for a Silver Dollar Mixed 12m, 2 1.6. Bandito Wall
Tiny Teds Trad 6m 1.8. Gibraltar Falls
* Caribbean Queen Trad 20m 1.9.1. Picnic
* Oops I Did It Again! Trad 8m 1.9.2. Innocence
* Why Does It Always Rain On Me Trad 8m 1.9.2. Innocence
*** Nice Day for a White Wedding Trad 15m 1.9.3. Sarah's Cracks
** Woodcutters Trad 8m 1.9.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
*** Big-mouthed Bass Crack Trad 10m 1.9.6. Sling Blade
** Brushed But Not Forgotten Trad 15m 1.9.7. Hipster Billy
*** Ground Hog Day Trad 15m 1.9.7. Hipster Billy
Better Luck Next Time Trad 15m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Cratercritter Trad 20m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Gibber Tari Trad 18m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Transience Trad 20m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Rubbery Tuk-awah! Mixed 8m, 1 1.11. The Bank
Milk Teeth Trad 10m 1.13. Tidbinbilla
Spider House Extension Trad 15m 1.14.1. Kazbah
18 Blue Lights Trad 15m 1.1.1. Trackside
** No Glove No Love Mixed 25m, 3 1.1.6. No Glove
On the Beach Direct Start Sport 30m, 1 1.1.6. No Glove
* Hey Jude Trad 25m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
** Scarborough Fair Trad 35m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Midsummer Madness Mixed 21m, 1 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Milwaukee Pig Iron Sport 10m, 3 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Return of the Marzipan Kid Trad 15m 1.1.13. Marzipan
Chicken Run Trad 35m 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Fish in a Barrel Trad 13m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Small Pox Trad 12m 1.2. Pox Rox
Night Fall Mixed 8m, 2 1.4. The Fortress
Twin Set Trad 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
Little Cherie Sport 10m, 4 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Puff Adder Sport 7m, 4 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Slithering Direct Sport 12m 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
One Eyed Trousersnake Trad 10m 1.5.5. The Buttresss
** Django the Bastard Trad 12m 1.6. Bandito Wall
* Vengeance is a Dish Best Served Cold Sport 14m, 5 1.7. The Hideout
72 Virgins Trad 15m 1.9.2. Innocence
Dragon Trad 25m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Nothing Too Serious Trad 15m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Short Soup Trad 15m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Pixie Power Trad 8m 1.11. The Bank
Ostrich Mentality Trad 8m 1.12. Square Rock
Tensor Trad 7m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
Farewell to Arms Trad 10m 1.14.1. Kazbah
Never Get Famous Trad 50m 1.15. Watt's Wall
High Spirits Trad 60m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
Only The Lonely Trad 80m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
19 Plasticine People Sport 7m 1.1.1. Trackside
Rock and Birds Trad 12m 1.1.2. Shady side
Haircare Make-up Drugs Sport 25m, 2 1.1.6. No Glove
* Oddball Sport 25m, 2 1.1.6. No Glove
* On the Beach Sport 30m, 2 1.1.6. No Glove
Revolution Mixed 8m, 2 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
* Consumer Item Sport 10m, 3 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
Swinging Seat Trad 30m 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Rangehon Trad 10m 1.3. The Jism
No Fat Chicks Mixed 8m, 3 1.4. The Fortress
** Yohan Sport 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
Conflict Therapy (easy start) Sport 10m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Black Adder Sport 10m, 4 1.5.5. The Buttresss
** Snakeskin Shuffle Sport 12m, 4 1.5.5. The Buttresss
** Death Rides Alone Sport 15m, 6 1.6. Bandito Wall
Barbary Ape Trad 10m 1.8. Gibraltar Falls
* Not My Nirvana Trad 10m 1.9.1. Picnic
** Piano Man Trad 12m 1.9.3. Sarah's Cracks
** Sling Blade Trad 12m 1.9.6. Sling Blade
Skewer Mixed 12m, 2 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Sausage Crack Trad 8m 1.11. The Bank
Pure Poison Trad 10m 1.13. Tidbinbilla
* Unnatural Acts Mixed 15m, 1 1.13. Tidbinbilla
* Tarred and Feathered Trad 15m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
19 M0 XMO Aid 15m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
18 Lovewidth Trad Project 9m 1.14.1. Kazbah
20 * Another Roadside Attraction Trad 15m 1.1.1. Trackside
Legless Trad 15m 1.1.1. Trackside
Poultry in Motion Mixed 10m, 3 1.1.1. Trackside
Barry the Radish Trad 20m 1.1.2. Shady side
Rimmon Crack Trad 10m 1.1.2. Shady side
* Porcupine Pie Sport 10m, 2 1.1.3. Frenchies
Changes Trad 20m 1.1.6. No Glove
** When Only The Best Will Do Sport 32m, 4 1.1.6. No Glove
*** Scarborough Fair (Roof Variant) Trad 35m 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Simply Salsa Mixed 35m, 4 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
** Fouled Up Turkey Sport 15m, 3 1.1.8. Knife Edge Boulder
Bart's Mate, Joker Sport 15m, 4 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
* Love Vigilante Sport 12m, 4 1.1.11. Skippy's Slab area
Gorgeous Turn Me On Trad 10m 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Ape Escape Mixed 20m, 4 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Free Tibet Mixed 25m, 3 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Anacondan Sport 12m, 4 1.5.5. The Buttresss
* Snake-in-the-Grass Mixed 15m, 3 1.5.5. The Buttresss
* Offspring Trad 10m 1.8. Gibraltar Falls
Swing the Billy Sport 10m, 5 1.9.1. Picnic
Swing the Billy left hand variant Sport 10m, 5 1.9.1. Picnic
** Blue Wind Trad 23m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Stormbringer Trad 10m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Captain Crystal's Right Trouser Leg Mixed 9m, 1 1.11. The Bank
Pixies and Dickywackers Mixed 10m, 2 1.11. The Bank
Matricide Trad 12m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
Never Again Trad 12m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
Offwidth on other side of Mercenary Trad 15m 1.14.2. Blackwater
20 M2 Aid Route Aid 25m 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
21 * Armless Trad 20m 1.1.1. Trackside
* Arse Bandit Sport 20m, 2 1.1.2. Shady side
** Overnight Sensation Trad 18m 1.1.2. Shady side
Tri-State Sport 15m, 2 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Strong Persuader Sport 10m, 3 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
Rock Spiders Sport 20m, 2 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
* Sound as a Trout Mixed 13m, 3 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Flying Leathernecks Mixed 15m, 2 1.1.13. Marzipan
* Monkey Business Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.14. Monkey Level
Le Tour Trad 15m 1.2. Pox Rox
Fake Crack Sport 8m, 3 1.4. The Fortress
Asafa Sport 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
Arrow of Time Sport 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
** Adios Sabata Sport 15m, 4 1.7. The Hideout
** Heartbreak Hotel Trad 18m 1.9.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
*** Puffing Billy Trad 18m 1.9.5. Clubs
Quartz Trad 10m 1.13. Tidbinbilla
Mercenary Swine Trad 15m 1.14.2. Blackwater
Hanging Around Here Trad 45m 1.15. Watt's Wall
22 Atom Ant Trad 13m 1.1.5. Black wall
* McCoys Arete Sport 10m, 4 1.1.5. Black wall
Going Troppo Sport 30m, 4 1.1.6. No Glove
Boomtown Refugee Mixed 10m, 1 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
* Happy Piggyland Mixed 35m, 1 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
* Parole Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
* V1 Special Sport 15m, 3 1.1.8. Knife Edge Boulder
At the Stillpoint of Destruction Trad 12m 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
** Roxley R.I.P. Sport 15m, 6 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
* My Generation Sport 20m, 6 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Broken Window Trad 15m 1.1.16. Safari Bouders
Anything'll Do Mixed 10m, 2 1.4. The Fortress
Flex Trad 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Usain Sport 7m 1.5.2. Upper Tier
Conflict Therapy (hard start) Sport 10m, 4 1.5.3. Lower Tier
* Copperhead Sport 7m 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
** Red Belly Mixed 12m, 2 1.5.5. The Buttresss
** Cold in July Trad 15m 1.9.1. Picnic
** Kneel before Zod! Trad 15m 1.9.1. Picnic
No Respect Trad 15m 1.9.1. Picnic
*** Christmas in July Mixed 15m, 3 1.9.2. Innocence
False Start Trad 12m 1.10. White Horse Rocks
Cowboys Are My Weakness Sport 12m, 3 1.12. Square Rock
Unknown finger crack Trad 1.13. Tidbinbilla
22 M0 Too Loose Lautrec Finish Aid 20m 1.15. Watt's Wall
22 M1 Six Blade Knife Aid 25m 1.15. Watt's Wall
V3 Carnage Trad 7m 1.4. The Fortress
* Just a Tease Boulder 5m 1.9.1. Picnic
23 Bad Luck Sir Mixed 12m, 2 1.1.1. Trackside
* Jihad Sport 14m, 3 1.1.3. Frenchies
Cornucopia Mixed 25m, 1 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Dim Parkio Sport 15m, 4 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
Holds Go Begging Sport 15m, 3 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
* Sticky Fingers Trad 30m 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Down By Law Trad 15m 1.1.13. Marzipan
* Future Shock Trad 18m 1.3. The Jism
Scratched Record Sport 10m, 2 1.4. The Fortress
Bergenhardia Sport 5m, 2 1.5.4. The Ampitheatre
** Crawlin' King Snake Mixed 15m, 2 1.5.5. The Buttresss
King Cobra Link-up Trad 12m 1.5.5. The Buttresss
*** Dollars for a Fast Gun Sport 13m, 5 1.6. Bandito Wall
Machine Gun Killers Sport 15m, 7 1.6. Bandito Wall
*** Hearts and Bones Trad 18m 1.9.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
Cintride Sport 10m, 4 1.11. The Bank
Photo Finish Trad 10m 1.11. The Bank
Good Things Come in Small Packages Trad 8m 1.14. Pierce's Creek
23 M1 Discount for Heroes Aid 35m 1.15. Watt's Wall
E3 6a *** Flypast Crack Trad 15m 1.14.1. Kazbah
24 Defined by the First Contraction Mixed 15m, 1 1.1.3. Frenchies
** Moth Trad 15m 1.1.3. Frenchies
* Aubergine Dream Sport 15m, 6 1.1.5. Black wall
Back on Black Sport 15m 1.1.5. Black wall
Fast Living Mixed 13m, 3 1.1.5. Black wall
Trivial Pursuits Mixed 10m, 2 1.1.7. Southern Tablelands
*** Skylark Mixed 28m, 4 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
* Fat and Healthy Sport 13m, 3 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Pecasso Sport 20m, 5 1.1.12. Egg Cave
* Apprentice's Edge Sport 10m, 6 1.4. The Fortress
Chasing Amy Trad 12m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Electra Luxx Sport 10m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
It Was Complicated Sport 10m 1.5.3. Lower Tier
Pythonista Sport 12m, 5 1.5.5. The Buttresss
* For a Few Dollars More Sport 16m, 6 1.6. Bandito Wall
Mega Tokyo Sport 30m, 9 1.9.1. Picnic
* Blue Velvet Sport 20m, 4 1.10. White Horse Rocks
* Captain Crystal Sport 12m, 4 1.11. The Bank
* The Lure Trad 12m 1.11. The Bank
* Changing the Guard Sport 10m, 3 1.12. Square Rock
25 ** Antipodean Atrocities Sport 20m, 4 1.1.5. Black wall
* Le Muir Noir Sport 12m, 5 1.1.5. Black wall
* Reptilian Sport 13m, 5 1.5.5. The Buttresss
26 ** French Connections Sport 13m, 4 1.1.3. Frenchies
Disco Cobra Sport 12m 1.5.5. The Buttresss
Spitting Viper Sport 14m 1.5.5. The Buttresss
** Black Satin Lingerie Sport 20m, 6 1.10. White Horse Rocks
27 M0 Lord Bailey Sport 10m, 4 1.1.9. Nailbiter Spike
29 * Trail Bike Wankers Trad 8m 1.14.1. Kazbah
? Open Project Sport Project 1.1.1. Trackside
Open project Sport Project 14m, 2 1.1.10. Summit Boulders
Project Unknown Project 1.1.12. Egg Cave
Mushroom Outing Aid 5m, 3 1.4. The Fortress
Unknown 1 Sport 10m 1.4. The Fortress
Project - Chris Sport Project 1.6. Bandito Wall
Project - Jamie Sport Project 1.6. Bandito Wall
Jaime's project Trad Project 15m 1.9.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
Project Sport Project 20m, 8 1.9.5. Clubs
Unknown Sport Project 2 1.11. The Bank
Unknown off-width Trad 1.12. Square Rock
No Warmup Top rope 6m 1.14.1. Kazbah
? Project 1 Trad Project 1.14.1. Kazbah
Project 2 Trad 1.14.1. Kazbah
Project 3 Trad 1.14.1. Kazbah
Project 4 Trad 1.14.1. Kazbah
Project 5 Trad 20m 1.14.1. Kazbah
Spider House Direttisima Trad Project 9m 1.14.1. Kazbah
Offwidth project Trad 6m 1.14.2. Blackwater
A2+ ** The Riff Aid 20m 1.14.1. Kazbah
M3 Zanadu Aid 10m 1.11. The Bank