Crag Guide for Gibraltar Peak and Corin Road crags

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. Belay of shrubs and gear. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick McGregor, 1977

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

The awkward leaning corner crack right on the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Now equipped with DBB. Walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, 1982

The shady crack 6m right of Blue Lights. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, Will Steffen, 1982

Start as for Dubious Tactics. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Margaret Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

Another Roadside Attraction

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

FA: Phill Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1988

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1988

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Bill Coddington, 1988

Arse Bandit

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

FA: Peter Fisk, Mike Peck, 1984

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top. Now reclaimed by moss.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, Armando Corvini, Graham Reilly, 1985

Overnight Sensation

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 100 metres right and downhill from 'Arse Bandit'.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, 1978

Back on the original path to 'The Southern Tablelands' and the summit proper:

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

FA: Anne Hastings, Caron Avis, 1987

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

FA: Tony Barten, Gordon Poultney, 1987

Fat and Healthy

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Sound as a Trout

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station. Bolts replaced 2007 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Anne Hastings, Mike Peck, Tony Barton, Caron Avis, 1987

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1992

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness. Rebolted in 2007 (approx).

FA: Phil Cullen, Mark Lithgow, 1978

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group fo boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

FA: Steve Harper, Scott Albutt, 1984

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub.

FA: Phil Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

FA: Damien Jones, Judy Costin, 1977

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts.

FA: Tony Barten, George Poultney, 1987

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder. Apparently chipped but still quite hard.

FFA: Tony Barten, 1988

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Ann Hastings, 1987

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

FA: Caron Avis, 1987

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 carrot bolts (bolt plates required). Rap station as for Skippy Slab

FA: The whole of Canberra, 1987

Love Vigilante

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1989

Start in the tunnel 3m left of Gorgeous Turn Me On.

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

FA: Gordon Turner,

Start on the boulder below and right of Goony Waltz. From the Summit Boulders the best access is to head down the gully towards the Nailbiter Spike. When Picasso is reached turn right and walk through the tunnel/roof. Easy Rider is on the left of the passage after the roof.

1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.
2. 8m (17) Big rockover and walk up the slab to DBB.
3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains as for Skippy Slab etc.

Rebolted 2011. Now with Fixed hangers

FA: George Renn, 1988

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

Sticky Fingers

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1988

Who's Better, Who's Best

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

FA: Craig Kentwell, Phil Georgeff, Anne Hastings, 1988

My Generation

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by five bolts. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1987

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1988

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1988

the bowels

FA: Matt Twin, 2004

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

FA: Craig Kentwell, 1988

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Richard Watts, Dave McGregor, 1985

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Tim Chapman, Geoff Kennett, 1982

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Matthew Larkin, 1982

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

Hey Jude

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, John "Chaz" Wood, 1978

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Scarborough Fair

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double bolt belay.

FA: Damien Jones, "Chaz" unable to follow, 1978

Scarborough Fair (Roof Variant)

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Unknown,

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

FA: Dave McGregor, Simon Carter, Dave Sargent, 1985

Parole

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

Happy Piggyland

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

FA: John Stone, John Carlson, 1980

FFA: Adam Blizzard, Neil Montgomery, 1987

FA: R. Carey, 2003

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

FA: Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

Heckmondwike Twist

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

FA: John Finnigan, Peter Cocker, 1975

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower offs. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer,

Fouled Up Turkey

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with Lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer,

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the knifeEdge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and lauch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

Flip, Flop, Fly

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

FA: Peter Cocker, John Finnigan, 1975

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

FA: Richard Watts, Matthew Rogerson, 1990

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

FA: Matthew Rogerson, Richard Watts, 1990

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. The 1st bolt is quite high and there is suspect flakes down low. Rebolted 2010. Take some gear for the belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Juveniles and Geriatrics / Juveniles

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 40m downhill from French Connection and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer. 1. 15m (15, cux). Hard start up the flakey black slab past (2 bolts). Gear belay. 2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Rebolted 2005 (Approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Anne Hastings (alt), 1987

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

FA: , 2010

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear underneath Fouled up Turkey etc. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

No Glove No Love / No Glove

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start. Rebolted in 2006 (approx).

FA: Gordon Poultney, Craig Kentwell, Adam Blizzard, 1987

On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1984

Very runout slabbing ... should be at Booroomba

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if your not solid.

Rebolted 2008.

FA: Mike Law-Smith,Rob Topfer, John Finnigan, 1982

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.
2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.
3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

FA: John Finnigan., 1976

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Peter Fisk, 1983

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer, 1982

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1982

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Adrienne Smith, 1987

The arete at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - five metres left of Le Muir Noir, or behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Lower yourself down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts). Scramble up until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Oliver Story, 2010

Le Muir Noir

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Going Troppo', 'Oddball', etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

FA: Tony Barten, 1989

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1990

Antipodean Alrocilies

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing on the impressive black wall above the main slabs. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

McCoy's Arete

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way. To descend, climb down the tree on the left side.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, 1987

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres uphill and left of 'Atom Ant' on the same boulder as 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

This is on a small boulder 30 metres west of 'Changes'. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

Start 20 metres downhill of the previous climb, on a boulder with a flake. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Tara Sutherland, Richard Watts, 1991

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain Lower off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1991

Skylark

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

Consumer Item

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter. Rebolted 2009 and a lower bolt added.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

Nail Biter

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

FA: Ray Lassman, Ian Thomas, 1975

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Phil Georgeff, Tony Barton, 1987

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

FA: John Finnigan (#1), Damien Jones, Phil Cullen (#2), 1978

Straight up the chimney. Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

FA: Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, Peter Mills; Peter Mills, Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, 1974

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step right of the chimney and onto the face. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately left onto the face and up, three bolts.

FA: Armando Corvini, Jacob Greber, 1992

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

2. 13 metres - Out of the cave and up the V-crack to the top.

FA: R Curtis, C Larque, 1974

Monkey Business

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Start at the dead branch leaning against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.

FA: Peter Riddy, Tony Wood (alt.), 1975

The obvious rightwards leaning corner.

FA: John Stone,

The ramps and blocks 10 metres right of 'Captain America'.

FA: John Stone, Hugh Stone, S. Raiser, Mike Peck, 1979

The easiest crack facing the main cliff. Bolt belay at the top of the boulder.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

FA: Anne Hastings, Phil Georgeff, 1987

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the back of the boulder.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1987

The hand crack on an isolated boulder left (looking downhill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

This obscure 'gem' can be found on the way, 20 metres to the left of the road, just before the gate. It is a short curving hand crack on a boulder.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1984

The short hand crack in the main group, facing the road.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck (solo), 1987

The first crack and flake to a bolt belay, on the next boulder. Climbed in a blizzard.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, 1987

The layback flake five metres right of 'Snow Storm'.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1987

Up the thin crack five metres right of 'Snowflake', right up to a flake and finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

The short corner on the back of the boulder. Up to a block, then easily up the mossy slab to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

On an isolated boulder down from 'Small Pox'. Steeply up to first bolt (crux) then follow the groove past another bolt to a single bolt rap station. Bolted by persons unknock.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Rebecca McLeod, 1996

On the right-hand side of the road. Climb the easy crack and gully.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

Future Shock

The obvious shallow crack facing the road. It was originally aided and called 'The Jism', but was freed and renamed.

FA: Phil Cullen,

FFA: John Smart, 1978

The line on the opposite side of the boulder. Up to the leftward diagonal break, and up this to a hotizontal break. Move right and up to a peg belay. Downclimb the offwidth to get off.

FA: Pat Butler, 1982

Miniscule. The flake formed crack on the boulder five metres left of 'Rangehen'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, 1982

The crack-cum-off-width around and left from 'Future Shock'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1987

Location: South-south-east of the mushroom; 30m around to the right from No Fat Chicks; in a short gully; right hand end of a mossy wall. Follows the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

A slabby wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder. The bolted climb to the left, starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay has not been claimed, but goes at around 17 or 18. The bolt with the large hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder has also not been reported.

FA: Geoff Filmer, Damian Jovanovic, 1995

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch your seconds...

FA: Dave Sargent, Paul Mason, 1987

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

Apprentice's Edge

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux; originally three bolts, but six at last count.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Kean, 1986

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details,

Sentry Duty

The obvious crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis, Damien Jones, 1975

On a small group of boulders some 30 metres east from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice climbing up the small right angled corner crack on the far (eastern) side. The next four climbs are on the isolated boulder 20 metres down and left (north) from the main 'mushroom' boulder.

FA: Matt Madin, Richard Watts, 1981

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

Blood on His Lips

The obvious thin crack, undercut at its base.

FA: R Curtis, J Finnegan, 1975

The wavey slab just left of Blood on His Lips. A high 1st bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off. Rebolted 2011.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

This small slanting handcrack faces Gibralter Creek in a small tor slightly higher than and about 400m north of Snake Rock. It is probably the only climb here.

FA: John Wilson, Gary Ewart, 2005

2m to the left of Little Cherie

FA: Justin Ryan, Lionel Meynadier, 2008

Up the nose of the lower left tier, just left of Puff Adder

FA: Lionel Meynadier, Justin Ryan, 2008

The crack system left of the orange streak. Was a thin trad lead; now a great sport climb.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak; follow the crack up through two more bulges.

FA: Jonathan Edwards, Jamie Valdivia (both led), 1997

The layback crack on the right hand side of the lower tier. Up the crack. Finish at the half-height anchor or clip it and continue up the arete past two bolts to the top. Better than it looks.

FA: John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, Mike Peck, 1997

The short arete high up on the left of the ampitheatre. Take care clipping the second bolt.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

The orange arete right of BA and left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over rooflet.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2008

Crawlin' King Snake

Superb sustained climbing, every move worthwhile. The obvious orange corner crack to a roof and bolt. Move right then finish back up the slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, 1997

Snake-in-the-Grass

The arete on the right hand side of the orange buttress past three bolts. Cam in break.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Eadie, 1997

Reptilian

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall.

FA: D.McG., 2002

Red Belly

The sustained thin corner right of Reptilian with two bolts at the finish (crux).

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, 1997

A good, hard climb if you can contrive it.

The arete right of Red Belly and left of OET.

Up the arete, avoiding the OET crack and its edges to the right. Optional small cam (#3 metolious) in break.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

Take your #4 camalot and enjoy. The chimney/offwidth/layback.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

Snakeskin Shuffle

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past four bolts.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Easie, 1997

Anacondan

Up the corner to the right of the nose of SS (small cam / wires) to ledge (#7 nut / small cam). Up the right side of the arete past 2 bolts.

FA: Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 2012

Offspring

Climbs are described from left to right on the western wall:

Doesn't let up; the best of the lot here. Jump start (crux; it is also possible to traverse in from the right) to a horizontal break two metres left of 'Barbary Ape' and up the thin crack to a mantle (second crux). Finish up through the rooflets.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

The broken crack system from the ground to the top, finishing up the flared chimney.

FA: Unknown,

Start one metre right of 'Angel Wings'. Up the wall to a good undercling, then through the rooflet on good edges. Needs a bolt (climbed with a high runner in the crack).

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

The cliff opposite the lookout is broken, but there is some tolerable climbing at stream level opposite and slightly downstream:

Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack.

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

Further left. Up the corner through a roof to the layback crack. Traverse right to a small tree to finish.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

Up the corner - use the left wall, then the arete.

FA: David Jenkins, Mark Sands, 1987

Two metres left of Better Luck Next Time, this is the obvious hand-sized layback crack.

FA: Mark Sands, David Jenkins, 1987

Wide crack at the right hand side of the crag.

FA: Tony Wood, Mike Todd, 1975

Short and sharp - finish up a short slab section. The wall with two bolts a couple of metres left of 'Johnny Walker'.

FA: Andrew Kean, Mike Peck, 1986

Two metres left of 'Skewer'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1986

Offwidth crack. Requires big pro - stacked hexes (at the time). The impressive flake-formed off-width left of 'Stormbringer'.

FA: John Stone, 1978

Crack left of 'Cratercritter'. Originally done in two pitches.

FA: Dick Curtis, Peter Mills, 1975

Black Satin Lingerie

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts.

FA: Simon Carter, 1991

Blue Velvet

A technical but well-protected traverse. Start as for 'Blue Wind' for 5 metres, then head right past four bolts. Traverse right from the ledge to belay as for 'Short Soup'.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

Blue Wind

Steep and sustained, the obvious line on the main wall. Shares a start with 'Blue Velvet'.

FA: Damien Jones, Paul Daniel, 1978

Off-width crack just left of 'Blue Wind'.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ian "Sam" Baker, John Stone, 1978

V-shaped chimney. Exit left.

FA: Mike Todd, Tony Wood, 1975

Start at the corner around 10m from 'Short Shrift'. Climb up for two metres, then right around the arete and up the short crack and dirty groove.

FA: Adam Blizzard, John Churchill, 1986

Off-width chimney with a bulge at two-thirds height, down and left from 'Transience'.

FA: Joe Friend, John Lamb, 1979

Start below a grassy recess left of 'Gibber Tari', and follow the crack and chimney before traversing right to finish.

FA: Dick Curtis, John Spahr, 1975

The groove four metres down from 'Knuckles'. Bouldery start is the crux.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1983

The surprisingly tricky crack at the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a spacious ledge then up the short corner crack. Move right to finish below the hanging blocks.

FA: Dick Curtis, Mike Todd, Tony Wood, John Spahr, 1975

The Lure

The leftwards leaning crack seen from the path, reminiscent of 'Easy Wind' ('Legoland'), but harder. Flared jams and strenuous to protect. Now slightly overgrown.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1995

The rounded arete and face just right of 'The Lure' with four bolts. Sharp on the tips.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1995

Captain Crystal

The slabby nose on the next boulder right of 'Cintride'. Up past two bolts then traverse delicately rightwards past two more bolts. Some thin moves.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

The chimney right of 'The Lure' with some protection in a leftwards crack. Ugh.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

The short open corner 5 metres right of 'Captain Crystal' with one bolt. Finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Paul Daniel, Mick O'Halloran, 1995

On the boulder directly below 'The Lure' is a pleasant slabby groove with a harder start. A lovely line and fun climbing.

FA: Liz Milbourne, Catherine Eadie, 1995

On a wavy slab 30 metres left of 'The Lure'. Up the middle; a delightful slab with an enhanced wire placement.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1995

The far side of a boulder 30 metres to the left of, and just downhill from 'Low Interest', sports a right facing, dainty little corner crack offering fingerlocking and stemming moves.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

Above and left of 'Low Interest', near the top of this outcrop, is a short slab on the northern side with two climbs:

The righthand line with two bolts. Pleasant face climbing.

FA: Catherine Eadie, Paul Daniel, 1995

Starts at a block on the left wall. Pull right onto the arete and then up, passing one bolt. The direct finish up the arete would be recommended if it had another bolt.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

Behind and right from 'Pygmy Chicken' and 'Rubbery Tuk-awah' is another tier of boulders. On the left wall of a chimney in the centre of the tier:

A bouldery start to the first bolt then good moves past one more to the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

From 'The Lure' outcrop, scattered boulders lead gently up the ridge for about 100 metres to the 'Spider's Web' - "a spiritual place" [Paul Daniel]. This is a large flat arene ringed with boulders and covered in a tangle of stringybark trunks:

The bolted, slabby arete on the right hand side of a boulder at the northern end of the 'Spider's Web'.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

The dyke just to the left of 'Throw it Out With the Cheese'.

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1996

Continue about 50 metres further northwards along the ridge from the 'Spider's Web' and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder.

The nice finger crack on the northern side of the outcrop on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

Sic. The beautiful overhanging seam on the downhill side of the westernmost boulders of the final group, opposite 'Sausage Crack'.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

Changing the Guard

Good overhanging face on ironstone jugs with three bolts. Throw the rope off the boulder and have your second tie it off to a tree in order to escape.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Mike Peck, 1995

The short crack to the left with an awkward, undercut start about ten metres right.

FA: Phil Junne, Julie Jefferis, 1995

Starting off the platform on north facing wall. A good thin face past three bolts to an overhanging finish, sharp on the tips.

FA: Julie Jefferis, 1995

Smokin!

FA: Nicholas Reese (solo), 2008

Below and further left of Ostrich Mentality.

FA: Mike Law-Smith,

Along the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve road are many small and some larger granite boulders. This climb is on the obvious "coffe bean" boulder 400m behind the reserve vistors centre. It is the wide crack clearly visible on the main face.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1979

Another fine jam crack about three metres right of Pure Poison.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1979

Unnatural Acts

To get to this and the following lines, follow the road into the reserve and take the first turn right to a picnic area. Boulders can be seen from the carpark.

The main line under the roof. Climb the slab past a bolt to the roof, undercling left and up a crack to finish.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1982

The crack about 10 metres right of Unnatural Acts starting (crux) next to a tree. Up the crack and straight on up the fang above.

FA: Dominic Monypenny, Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1987

There is a boulder in the scrub 30 metres directly downhill from the main cluster of boulders on Turkey Hill. At the righthand end on the river side is a curving hand crack.

The cracks further left have been soloed.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, Paul Daniel, 1991

About 500 metres past the Visitor's Centre, a finger crack on the left has been climbed.

FA: John Smart, Mike Law-Smith,

Looking back to the main track from the knoll, a group of small boulders could once be seen in a gully. This is the short line.

FA: Colin Coleman, 1980

Tarred and Feathered

The second crack. The best line at Pierce's Creek, but mean on the hands. The flaky ramp and hand crack splitting the nice wall left and around the corner. It was first climbed with the assistance of a pine tree.

FFA: Peter Fisk, John Carlson, 1980

FA: Rob Topfer, Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1980

The track continues gradually rightwards around the broad ridge and the valley on the left closes in. The track soon turns left at a damp gully crossing and descends on the other side of the valley beneath pine forest. A few large boulders once showed in the pines above the road 200 metres along from the damp gully. On the right-hand boulder is this climb. Previously world famous as the name of the ACT's Pritkin Climbing Rag. The hand crack with the wide finish.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1981

The thin, leaning finger crack on the boulder on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

The obvious crackline on the large boulder (facing Canberra) 15 metres behind 'Good Things Come in Small Packages'. An off-width crux.

FA: Ken Luck, Adam Blizzard, Andrew Bentley, 1988

On a small boulder nearby to 'Never Again'. Up onto the small slab, right across a small wall and onto the main slab to finish a small climb.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1980

Things now get worse... Follow the track downhill to an intersection, turn right and keep rallying back uphill through the pines. You may eventually come back out onto the cleared ridgeline to the main access road. Turn back right onto it and continue until nearly back to the original narrow turnoff to the knoll. There is a small group of boulders in the water catchment area on the opposite side of the road to the knoll.

FA: Peter Fisk, Steve Raiser, 1980

Continuing from the knoll, the track veers right and plunges downhill for a short distance. When it levels out, at the intersection with the original ridge track, a collection of large boulders can be seen on the uphill side. The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it, one of which is Matricide. The slightly overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start, directly facing the track. It was found to be 20 after a flake was dislodged from the start.

FA: Rob Topfer, Lucas Trihey, 1981

The Riff

Flaring crack into a seam and then several hook moves to gain the horizontal crack and stepping right and up using the horizontal crack. May go direct as well. Overhangs 4 metres in 15. Would be difficult to free due to the flaring crack, but could be possible at high 20's or over.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

Flypast Crack

Start at a cruxy corner/chimney move on smears to get going, then up through the ascending corner crack. Due to its orientation the crack does a good job of trying to spit you out. Two definite cruxes, one is turning the corner down low and the last is the offwidth move off stacked hands at the top. A bit of everything all packed into a very short space. Still exfoliating a bit so a helmet for the belayer might be a good idea, and watch your ankles on the first move.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

A top-rope boulder problem, or X rated boulder problem (if you fall right you're going for a 15 metre tumble), or solo for an idiot. Step from a ledge halfway up the crack and then follow the increasingly shallow rib. Very short, breaking down into around V1, V4 then V7 moves consecutively and roughly V10 for the top-out (nicer to do with your anchor over the edge and climbing to the anchor). May have been climbed before, but exfoliated significantly, presumably because of the fires so no ascents in ten years or more. Grade's a rough guess. First ascent on top rope, go ahead and free(solo) it. Not really possible from the ground.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Climb delicately up, bridging until the 4 metre mark where you can set the first gear. Continue up the proper offwidth either by flailing about or with the grace of a gazelle, depending on your preference. You will need something big, i.e. a #5/6 BD or something similar. The crack is a constant width so bumping one piece is an option, but be aware it exfoliates.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse right through a thin finger crack section, smearing, and up through a hands/fist crack to finish. Be careful of the exfoliating rock underneath your feet, there's still a lot coming off. Quite pleasant.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2013

A slab start to the offwidth finish of Spider House Traverse. Project, needs cleaning and will be reasonably difficult. Unprotectable for the first 5 metres.

Up the start of Lovewidth then traverse the full length of the boulder. There's a great rest ledge between the two slabs but it's a little steeper at the end. Careful of the friable foot-and-handholds. Takes good gear.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

Will need lower-offs as there is no way to top belay otherwise.

The huge chimney. You may need to be lowered in to climb out (you have been warned). Fire-damaged so there's a lot of soot at the top. There's two big chocks to belay off up the top.

Solo up the back of the block with 'The Riff' and 'Flypast Crack' to a big chock, where you can set up a belay (or further down, depending on what you want to do). Be careful, if you're walking along the crackline it is a bit vegetated where it thins out.

The fierce finger and hand crack with a huge flake on the left to start. At least, it used to have a huge flake. Now that is completely detached, and the arete has been destroyed after the fires as well. There's no way to walk off this boulder - either rap off gear or the 2x4 generously left behind. If you trust it.

FA: Robert Topfer, 1980

Grade is a best guess based on feedback from someone who's climbed 'Mercenary Swine'. May have been climbed before.

Could go as a boulder problem, assuming someone is willing to down-climb it. Up the wide to start then thinning off-width. Possibly too big for most gear.

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

FA: Matt Madin, Bill Begg,

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave MacGregor, 1985

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

FA: Dave McGregor, Matt Madin, 1985

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt.), 1985

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

FA: Ben Jones, David Lyons, 1989

Ghost Who Walks

Recommended, if you've got this far. Start 6 metres left of L.W.F, below two parallel cracks. Climb up to, then up these to the top.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

Horrible, vegetated, dirty and usually wet - a sandbag at the grade. The obvious corner on the steep wall at the left end of the cliff.

1. 15 metres - Up the corner to belay in the cave.

2. 30 metres - Continue up until it is possible to escape left.

3. 10 metres - Traverse left to slabs.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

The short steep crack above the cave on 'Lest We Forget'. Two rests due to incompetence.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Collins (alt.), Adam Blizzard, 1989

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo),

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Damien Jones (alt.), 1975

Spaghetti O's

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginners lead.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Blood for a Silver Dollar

Start a couple of metres right of 'Spaghetti O's'. Hard moves off the ground following seam then crack. Continue past 2 BRs to lower offs. Anchors and top BR replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Django the Bastard

The crack just right of 'Blood for a Silver Dollar'. Step left at the top to use the same anchors.Take some smaller cams. No excuse if its wet...

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Death Rides Alone

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard'.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Steep slab to the right of 'Death Rides Alone' that shares the same anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Will be a direct start to FAFDM

For a Few Dollars More

Shares a start with 'Dollars for a Fast Gun', but heads left and follows the weakness.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

Dollars for a Fast Gun

The very right hand line and the first you come to. Great balance move through onto the steep slab.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

For a Fist in the Eye

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck, into and up the wide crack, obvious traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

Hole in the Forehead

Start on the same block as FAFITE. Committing start to get established in the corner. Layback to glory. It is possible to step right to the AS anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

Adios Sabata

The left of the bolted lines. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

Vengeance is a Dish Best Served Cold

The right hand bolted line. Hard moves below last bolt with potentially bad fall consequences giving a satisfying lead. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

Start a twin cracks that lead into an obvious corner.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005