A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Gibraltar and Corin Road 442 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.929818, -35.489085

Description:

The Corin Road area is home to Gibraltar Peak, a Granite Tor that stands proud above the Tidbinbilla valley to its north west and and the narrow Gibraltar Creek valley to its south, and several worthwhile smaller crags. Snake Rock (great for a winter day or late summer afternoon), Bandito Wall (probably the easiest access crag - great for a summer morning). Several more crags are scattered along the Corin Road and in Tidbinbilla valley and its flanks.

Where To Stay:

Woods Reserve on Corin Road offers camping in pleasant surrounds by a creek.

1.1. Corin Road Bouldering 134 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.947825, -35.474015

Unique Features And Strengths:

Best featured granite boulders (with actual holds) in Canberra.

Description:

A number of boulders can be found along Corin Road. Note that the crags in the Corin Road area (Bandido Wall, Hideout Wall, Square Rock etc) can be found under Gibraltar Peak. Like most of the rest of Canberra, the boulders around Corin Road are granite, and require good contact strength, balance and sometimes a fair bit of nerve to top out. Highball problems are a bit more common here, and there's a few that will test the V6 climber's nerve to the limits. The area has some potential for new problems, and some further work cataloguing existing problems, for example near Snake Rock.

George's Boulder is a good place for a quick stop-off and boulder if you're stretched for time, and if you have more time, Cantaloupe Hill holds enough to keep all but the very strong busy.

Access Issues:

Access is along forestry roads, which in some cases may require a 4WD or just a bit of extra walking. If you have a low clearance car you can park a few hundred metres past the Woods Reserve turnoff (good visibility both directions for parking and also driving away) and walk up from there. It is about 200m to the dirt road, and another 200m to the 4WD parking area, so it isn't a great deal more effort.

Approach:

Either through the Cotter via Cotter Road down towards Tidbinbilla, or through Point Hut Road.

Cantaloupe Hill: turn onto Corin Road, then it's around 6km until you reach a turn-off to Woods Reserve. Around 400 metres past this, a dirt forestry track on your right leads up towards Cantaloupe Hill. Drive (the road is quite rutted) or walk straight up this road until you reach a fork where it turns left and right. Ignore these - the walking track is directly in front of you, marked with a cairn or two at the start.

George's Boulder: The second dirt track turn-off on Corin Road, found 2.6km (as the crow flies) after the turn off onto Corin Road from Tidbinbilla Road. You'll know you've found the right track from its comparatively well-kept surface, and the fact that the dirt track takes an almost immediate right turn. Park at the turn and follow a faint and blackberry-infested path north for about 80 metres.

1.1.1. Cantaloupe Hill 85 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 148.928124, -35.475884

Description:

The main area on the hill, comprising Glitz Rock and a number of other boulders nearby.

Cantaloupe Hill can be found near Corin Road. 200 metres after passing the turn-off to Woods Reserve, some 6km along the road, there is a forestry track on your right. This goes straight up the hill for about 200 metres, before branching left and right. Park at the fork and keep going straight up the hill, marked by a cairn or two, presuming they haven't been blown over!

As you head up the hill, you cross a gully, then there's a small group of rocks you pass on your left with no currently marked climbs, and then the first climbing area is found on your right, with a roughly marked trail giving way to overgrown brush. This leads to The Hand. If you continue up instead of turning right, you will eventually come to another right turn, and following that track you'll find Glitz Rock. You might need to wander around a bit before finding the right places to turn. Once you pass Glitz Rock, uphill and heading in a starboard direction is the fabulous Spruce Moose rock, and a little bit behind is a big blobby slab with a nice traverse.

Topo coming soon.

This area was found and developed by Chris Warner in 2003.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Number 24 V0 Boulder
1.1.1.1. First Stopoff 3 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

As you head up the hill, there's a bunch of boulders on your left, well before you get to The Hand. A few possible lines to be done.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Memories

Just enough holds for an ascent. Hard work getting off the ground, a big move to the next incut, then you're on the slab and away.

FA: David Nott, 2013

V4 Boulder 5m
2 Project 2 - open

Technical and gut-busting. Grade is a guess. Some seriously strenuous layback moves.

V7 Boulder Project 4m
3 Slab proj

Left side of the slab. Delicate!

V2 Boulder Project 5m
1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock 10 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

An obvious boulder found as you wander along the path towards the Heart Block. CCA Corin Valley guide climbs 1-4, with a number of other climbs which are reverses, extensions or different lines. Climbs have recently been updated with further information from the original CCA guide. If you have climbed or know of any further climbs, please feel free to add them.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Without Words

Left of Tally Ho. Mossy and probably a waste of time. Tricky.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder 2m
2 * Tally Ho

Sit start at the start for Vendetta. Straight up. Quite messy after it's rained.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder 2m
3 *** Vendetta

Shares a sit start with Tally Ho, then trends right. Progressively crimpier with thinner feet. Originally this was V9, but was downgraded to V7-8 when someone chipped the first rail. If V7, then on the harder side, unless you love crimping.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

V7 to V8 Boulder 3m
4 ** Contempt

Start on the left side of the undercling from a sit start (right of the start to Tally Ho), then straight up, topping out right of where Tally Ho tops out.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder 4m
5 Variant Finish

As per Contempt, but topout for Tally Ho. Probably only V5 (if that) if you use the RH crimp rather than going straight left.

V5 Boulder 4m
6 *** Cerebro

Start for Vendetta, traverse onto undercling rather than the rail, around and up finishing at the same spot as Vendetta.

FA: Chris Webb

V11 Boulder 4m
7 ** Dripping on Trips

Straight up through the underclings for Cerebro to the crimpy rail for Vendetta and top out. A hard 5 feeling a lot more like 6 unless you're a great crimper!

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder 4m
8 *** The Joker

The proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds. Very stout for the grade.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder 4m
9 ** Lipstick Lesbian

Start for the Joker, then head straight up where the rock splits into two cracks.

FA: Chris Warner

V10 Boulder 4m
10 The Joker - sit

Per ex-Canberran Duncan Brown - the full sit to the Joker line ostensibly adds a grade, if you don't think it's V7 to start with anyway.

{US} V7 Boulder 4m
1.1.1.3. Warmup Slab 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Slabby and slightly mossy warmup

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Persian Rug

Nice warmup problem upslope and behind Glitz Rock

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Number 5

Right hand variant to Persian Rug (#6 in CCA guide).

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Prydain

Sit start left of persian rug on the undercling and up the "arete". Eliminate - left side rail is out.

{US} V0 to V1 Boulder 3m
1.1.1.4. Prow Rock 8 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Prominent overhung prow upslope from warmup slab and upslope and behind Glitz Rock

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Intrusion

Sit start problem trugh obvious basalt or similar intrusion on back of boulder and right of prow.

V3 Boulder 3m
2 Intrusion stand

Stand variant to intrusion. Very height-dependent.

V2 to V3 Boulder 3m
3 Ruffian

Sit start and then go diagonally left up the seam. Falling at the end would be bad.

V3 Boulder 5m
1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

The front side of the prow boulder, with the compression problem coming to an obvious knife edge and a few other problems on the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Spruce Moose - stand

Standing start to Spruce Moose - slap up the boulder. Burly.

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder 4m
2 *** Spruce Moose - sitstart

Sit-start and slap your way up with big compression moves up the prow.

V9 Boulder 4m
3 Lanky Yanky

Up and left crimping under roof then up and over.

V8 Boulder 4m
4 Throw Back

Long throw to crimp.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder 4m
5 Pubs

The slab.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder 3m
1.1.1.5. Slab Rock 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Behind Prow Rock and slightly uphill. This is a big slabby blob of a rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Another

Grunt your way up the slab on the left side right in the trees. If you can be bothered. You might get a real surprise if you fall.

FA: Chris Warner

V1 Boulder 2m
2 Szady Slap

Traverse all the way along the slab from the right hand side of the rock as you come uphill. Hope you've got good friction in your hands!

FA: Clinton Szady

V4 Boulder 2m
3 Peter Pan

Left of the start to Szady Slap, take a run at the slab, jump, get your feet set and reach for glory. Invigorating cooldown.

V1 Boulder 3m
1.1.1.6. Number 15 boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
History:

I had these problems climbing differently. Number 15 and 16 started at the far right hand side, with 15 traversing left a short way then heading up the slab, and number 16 heading all the way left (180 degrees clockwise round the boulder). Number 17 is correct - sit start up and over the bulge from the front-most corner. See topo with poor quality.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Back in Black (#15)

Sit start from left of slab then traverse right and up the slab on crimps.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder
2 Slow and Low (#16)

Sit-start traverse the boulder left to right.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder 1m
3 Bergs

Sit-start the arete.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s) 11 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Climbs listed left to right facing the track. Still a line or two to go here? Includes a few boulders downhill and left (if you face the hill) and uphill and right - the big protruding prow rock with a cave underneath.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Arete (#18)

Sit-start and up to the left or the right. If you face the hill, this is downhill and to the left.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder
2 Drug Money for the Bunny (#19)

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder 5m
3 * Organs in Orbit (#20)

Traverse left to right then up, finishing as for 22, the righthandmost climb. Either gaston through the crux or execute a hard cross-through.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder 10m
4 *** Check Your Head (#21)

Highball.

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder 8m
5 ** Swinging Doors (#22)

Up onto a good flat edge with crappy footers, get yourself set, dyno out left then up.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder 6m
6 Number 23

Sit-start. Looks like something has broken, as this has minimal hand holds and small feet. Looked to be a single dynamic move to the top.

V3 Boulder
1.1.1.7.1. Second Heart 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

A bit further on downhill and left (if you are looking uphill) from the main heart block. At this stage, needs some cleaning.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1

The crack.

V0 Boulder 5m
1.1.1.7.2. The Second Prow 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
Description:

Uphill and to the right of the heart block proper is a huge jutting prow with a cave underneath. This looks to be a rock that just keeps giving.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vitruvian

Stand start at flake, matching hands above. Layback from there out to the edge of the slope, cut feet, find the slot and up.

FA: David Nott, 2011

V3 Boulder 2m
2 Visceral

Start as for Vitruvian, layback out right, cut feet and dangle in thin air, then turn and heel hook up in the slot just before the end of the jutting prow. V4 moves up to here... Now execute a gut-wrenching mantle with your left foot dangling in the air. Positive holds. Pretty damn contrived. On reflection, it's not worth stars, but it's fun to try and mantel over the shit foot-slot. The full line is the real prize. Don't touch the ground, obviously!

FA: David Nott, 2011

V5 Boulder 2m
3 Project 1 - prow traverse

Traverse from the start of Vitruvian right around the boulder, heel hooking and groaning all the way. Pretty much a huge campus problem really.

V9 Boulder 2m
4 Project 2 - the Cave

Sit start inside the cave, move to a downward-sloped rail, huge throw up to next hold. Not sure if it's possible without hitting the rock behind, but this is one for the insanely strong.

Boulder 3m
1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge 16 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.932796, -35.475655

Description:

Past Heart Block and the big blank faces. Still more to be developed here. A good area for people of all levels - beginner to hardcore.

Approach:

From The Heart Block head pretty well straight up the hill, veering slightly right. Youu'll get to some large boulders which you can squeeze through (to get to problems 1-3) or walk around right (to come out near Rumspringa). The track is pretty faint, but if you head uphill for 200-300m you'll get to the area easily.

There are many easily identifiable rocks and climbs here, so check the topos prior to heading out to guarantee success (in finding the area).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Number 1

Sit start.

V1 Boulder
2 * Jayenne

Stand start from the bottom of the boulder. After gaining your feet, a fair sized dynamic move out left from smears will get you to the glory rail, and then finish as for #1.

FA: David Nott, 2011

V3 Boulder 5m
3 Number 2 V0 Boulder
4 * Nice Guys Finish Last

Slab.

FA: Chris Warner

V1 Boulder 5m
5 *** O'Ren Ishi

Sit start. Traverse left then up.

FA: Chris Warner

V7 Boulder
6 ** Cotten Mouth

Sit start then over onto slab.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder
7 *** Rumspringa

Sit-start up the arete. Quite overhung. A great quality climb well worth the walk up to this sector just by itself. Low in the grade.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder 4m
8 * QJ WIN

Crimp and dyno.

FA: Chris Warner

V6 Boulder
9 Nearly

Sit start.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
10 Mantle

Sit start.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
11 Blue Jeans

Sit-start then mantle.

FA: Chris Warner

V1 Boulder
12 More moss

Sit start.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
13 ** Blood Makes Noise

Start with hand jam between blocks then into crack, pull lip and up right.

FA: Robert Lange

V7 Boulder
14 ** Scream

Start with a hand jam between blocks and then into crack, head straight up and dyno.

FA: Andrew Bull

V8 Boulder
15 * Fraud Landis

Sit start then traverse left onto slopes from Rumspringa.

FA: Andrew Bull

V7 Boulder
16 Rumspringa stand

Seems about the same as Rumspringa as the crux balance move is in the stand, but doesn't include the heel hook above the head.

V5 Boulder 4m
1.1.1.9. Sundries 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

A distance from the main area, walk up left past the heart block, diagonally across the side of the hill through some ferns. A hundred metres or so past the heart block are some more larger blocks - no climbing is on these yet. Walk up and around these, across and slightly up the hill for several hundred metres (there's a faint track), and then as the bush clears head uphill. The track leads you to the boulder containing Problem #2.

This area doesn't look like it's had much traffic for a while, and is starting to be reclaimed by the bush. The landing areas are growing over, and there's moss on the top outs. Some climbs also look like holds have come off, so the grades may no longer be accurate.

Walking to the Sundries is the best way to get to the Ice Blocks, which are a little further up the hill, and more to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dren

Sit start, grabbing either side of the prow. Work your way up and top out - average feet all the way.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
2 Soot

Layback the flake to the left up onto the boulder, then top out to the right.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
3 Rarze

Sit start. Up to the top of the first boulder, then head straight up and slightly left over the second. Once on top, downclimb round to the left.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder
4 Tauris

Sit start as per #3. Once at the top of the first boulder, follow the seam up and right.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder
5 Flicking your switch

In front of problems 3 and 4, accessed under the huge burnt tree. Difficult and blank looking layback up and left to a tricky top out.

Boulder
6 Chime

Sit start. Up the broken corner using many different features.

V0 Boulder
7 ** Its daddy you shit head

Sit start round to the right. Follow the good layback flake up and left round the tock, and top out straight up once at the 'ledge'. Downclimb over the back.

FA: Clinton Szady

V5 Boulder
8 * Dance for daddy

Mantle up, starting off the block. Awkward ledge, then top out straight up. Downclimb off the back.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder
1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.929603, -35.477069

Description:

Highest on the hill and with the best quality, sometimes unusual looking granite. This area is underdeveloped and so climbing can be hard to find.

The best way to get to this area is to walk up to the Heart Block, head across the hill to The Sundries, head up a little further (there's a faint track) and at the cairn head left across the hill following more cairns. The track comes out at Aspen Armour. Heading straight up the hill from The Sundries will lead you to the summit, and you'll miss the Ice Blocks by 50m or so. If you get to the summit, head towards Corin Road until you get to an area with lots of rocks with scree between them, then head downhill 100m or so.

The developed climbs are on rock of exceptional quality, but other rock is flaky. Development of other climbs in this area (plenty of potential) will require cleaning / removal of loose flakes on the surface of some boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 More

Sit start. Up crack in corner, trending right and round onto the top.

FA: Chris Warner

V0 Boulder
2 * Born-again Hooligan

Sit start up to a big sloper then up to a good edge on top. Easy top out and down climb.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder
3 Crete it

Sit start then up left, staying on the main block (don't escape up the crack between the boulders).

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder
4 Skullduggery

Sit start as per #3. Big throw right to a jug, then up to the top.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder
5 *** Aspen Armor

Hard sit start up to break, then head up ledges to top.

FA: Chris Warner

V7 Boulder
6 *** Skills to Pay the Bills

Sit start as per #5 to break, then traverse right on slopers to the end of the break, then head up to top.

FA: Chris Warner

V10 Boulder
7 * Stone Cutter

Start at the bottom right, move left to the arete and up.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder
8 Price Check

Sit start up the arete, then top out.

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder
1.1.1.11. The Hand 11 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.933943, -35.474842

Description:

Branching off to the right from the main track as you walk towards Glitz Rock, the Hand has some good warmup climbs. Bring a wire brush with you, the moss is fairly rampant; however, the footing is at least void of moss.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cute Kill

Sit start from the cave up holding onto a big flake. Compressive move to start.

FA: Chris Warner

V3 Boulder 6m
2 Pinky Cling

Contrived sit start. 6 metres, but an easy terrain crack up top.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder 6m
3 Kerl

Straight up a mossy crack. Nothing difficult.

FA: Chris Warner

V0 Boulder 5m
4 Thumb Mantle

Sit start. Good mantle practice.

FA: Chris Warner

V1 Boulder 2m
5 Middle Finger

Up the right side of the palm. Easy terrain.

FA: Chris Warner

V0 Boulder 6m
6 Tickler

Sit start. The hardest V3 in the entire world?

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder 4m
7 Skin end

Up the side of the boulder using layback-type moves. Hard work to get your feet on top.

FA: Chris Warner

V2 Boulder 4m
8 #7 RH variant

Good warmup for the burlier #6-7.

V0 Boulder 4m
9 Divagation

It really is a word. Sit start at the opening of the cave around the corner and uphill a few metres from #7. Start on positive holds, then find the hidden hold up high to progress. The boulder behind is in - it's a cross between a chimney climb and a face climb!

V1 Boulder 3m
10 Mellifluous

Small boulder on the way in to the hand. Warm-up sit start.

V0- Boulder 2m
11 Trichiasis

Sit start for the V3, then exit out the roof and up the vertical slab. Direct might be a fair bit harder if you're willing to huck a huge dyno - not sure it's viable.

FA: David Nott, 2011

V3 Boulder 5m

1.1.2. George's Boulder 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 148.957714, -35.467671

Description:

Along Corin Road - drive around 2.5 km from first right turnoff (to the Jism and Fortress), turn right and park on a dirt road and walk around 100 metres uphill.

Google map coords for finding the rock (and the right place to park):

-35.467655,148.957705

Recently, a lovely little bench has even been added for people to sit on while watching climbers fall off 'Phone Sex'!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Call Girls

Sit start to the far right low down, then pull around the corner. Finish with higher traverse to jug. The warm up...

FA: George Fieg

V4 Boulder 2m
2 On Hold

Sit start to the far right and pull around the corner. Finish with lower traverse/slopes to jug. Desperate.

FA: Chris Warner

V5 Boulder 2m
3 ** Slopesanity

Reverse 1a/b from the start of the rail past the victory jugs, using only the slopers. Arguably better than 1a, slightly more fun moves in the opposite direction. Holds all face the wrong way to traverse in this direction though, so it's like downclimbing slopers!

V6 Boulder 2m
4 Dialed

Up the flake at the right side of the boulder as you approach it from the parking area (flake's gone so this problem is either way more difficult or just not worth the trouble).

V4 Boulder 5m
5 * Shy moves

Up and onto the slab. Smearing moves and a few check your head moments.

FA: Chris Warner

V4 Boulder 5m
6 *** Phone Sex

Start from the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder on low slopers, hard start moves out right on crimps (You may need to clean the Blackberries as they are persistent). Many have started one block over for the sit-start, taking out the most strenuous moves of the climbs - see 'Phone Diddle'. Traverse out right and end on the jug for 1a/1b.

FA: George Feig

V8 Boulder 2m
7 ** Phone Diddle

The start many people use when claiming 'Phone Sex'! From the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder as you walk in, start one block right on larger holds and then traverse out right to the jug for 1a/1b. Still has the hardest moves of 'Phone Sex', but the full sit is now doable as the start has been cleaned up. Requires less endurance than the full line.

V7 Boulder 2m
8 *** Leg Spinner

Sit start to good jug, dyno onto good blind edge then up. A very sizeable dyno - bring a few mats to stack if you love your ankles.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2008

V6 Boulder 5m
9 *** Shape Shifters

Straight up the front side of the boulder just before the end of Phone Sex. Sit start to big jug, heal hook and big chuck to crimp out left. pull hard to the high gaston and up.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

V10 Boulder 5m
10 Blood Moon

Start as for Phone Sex and finish through Shape Shifters.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2014

V11 Boulder 6m
11 Phone Extension

Start from the sit start on phone sex, reach the finish jug of that problem but get set up, head into the 'Leg Spinner' dyno and topout.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2008

V9 Boulder 5m
12 Full Traverse

Traverse the full boulder. One for the pumpers.

FA: Andrew Bull

V9 Boulder 2m
13 Reverse Charges

Reverse 'Phone Sex'.

FA:

{US} V8 Boulder 1m
14 The Tower

Sit start and up the arete.

V6 Boulder 4m

1.1.3. Snake Rock Boulders 21 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 148.952472, -35.477619

Description:

Drive about 3.5km along Corin Road (coming from Canberra) and park on the left near a telegraph poll where the power lines cross the road.

Walk about 200m down a dirt road (entrance near telegraph pole and blocked by large rocks) until you approach an open, sandy clearing, turn right, walk about 200m further until you see a cairn, turn left into bush and follow track down to creek. Cross creek and walk up tending left until you see boulders.

Access Issues:

There are no access issues that I'm aware of. Of course, please remember the usual climbing dos and don'ts.

History:

People have bouldered here for many years but the original names of problems have for the most part been lost to history.

1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder 18 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.952308, -35.478268

Description:

Fourth boulder (obvious overhanging face) you approach after crossing creek.

Approach:

Drive about 3.5km along Corin Road (coming from Canberra) and park on the left near a telegraph poll where the power lines cross the road.

Walk about 200m down a dirt road (entrance near telegraph pole and blocked by large rocks) until you approach an open, sandy clearing, turn right, walk about 200m further until you see a cairn, turn left into bush and follow track down to creek. Cross creek and walk up tending left until you see boulders.

History:

People have bouldered here for many years but the original names of problems have for the most part been lost to history.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1.

Sit start from slot, climb onto back of boulder and top out.

V1 Boulder 4m
2 ** 2.

Sit start from slot, traverse across prow, then across face at 45 degree angle topping out as for left arete.

V7 Boulder 8m
3 *** FrankenRuby

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb prow and top out.

FFA: @bevanashby, 30th Apr

V9 Boulder 4m
4 ** 4.

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb corner and top out.

V4 Boulder 4m
5 * 5.

Sit start from left side pull, climb into corner and top out.

V5 Boulder 4m
6 * 6.

Sit start from left side pull, then across face at 45 degree angle topping out as for left arete.

V6 Boulder 4m
7 * 7.

Stand start left arete, climb arete/face and top out.

V3 Boulder 4m
8 7a.

Sit start left arete, climb arete/face and top out.

Boulder Project 4m
9 8.

Stand start on edges, climb face then top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
10 * 9.

Stand start on edges, traverse across face at 45 degree angle topping out as for left arete.

V2 Boulder 6m
11 10.

Sit start on edges, climb face then top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
12 11.

Stand start at base of arete, climb arete and top out (this route is also the best decent).

V0 Boulder 3m
13 12.

Stand start middle of wall, climb face and top out.

V1 Boulder 3m
14 13.

Stand start about 2m right of left arete, climb left onto arete and top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
15 * 14.

Stand start at base of arete, climb arete and top out.

V3 Boulder 4m
16 15.

Stand start about 2m left of arete, climb sloping holds and top out.

V3 Boulder 4m
17 16.

Stand start at base of corner, climb corner and top out.

Boulder 4m
18 17.

Stand start about 2m left of corner, climb face and top out.

V1 Boulder 4m
1.1.3.2. Ike Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.952565, -35.478184

Description:

Third boulder (left of walking track) you approach after crossing creek.

Approach:

Drive about 3.5km along Corin Road (coming from Canberra) and park on the left near a telegraph poll where the power lines cross the road.

Walk about 200m down a dirt road (entrance near telegraph pole and blocked by large rocks) until you approach an open, sandy clearing, turn right, walk about 200m further until you see a cairn, turn left into bush and follow track down to creek. Cross creek and walk up tending left until you see boulders.

History:

People have bouldered here for many years but the original names of problems have for the most part been lost to history.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1.

Sit start (left of arete) on rail. Climb face\arete and top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
2 2.

Stand start corner, climb corner and top out.

V1 Boulder 3m
3 3.

Sit start undercut arete, climb arete and top out.

V5 Boulder 3m

1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 148.894332, -35.525969

Description:

A bloc 10 metres off the road, with other boulders nearby and potential for development.

Approach:

9.7 kilometres past the turn-off to Woods Reserve, the Bloc can be found on the right side of the road.

History:

The main bloc was developed by Matt Risutto, Glen Jones, Andrew Bull and Chris Warner in a single day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fridge Lift V2 Boulder
2 Baby Stop It V2 Boulder
3 Turn the Sheets V4 Boulder
4 Payment V3 Boulder
5 Fridge Press V2 Boulder
6 Non-Zero Possibility V7 Boulder
7 Tails of the Drift V9 Boulder
8 Chasing Ghosts V8 Boulder
9 Erico V5 Boulder
10 Shut the Door V3 Boulder
11 Kelvinator V6 Boulder
12 Undercounter V3 Boulder
13 Descent V0 Boulder
14 Hard Descent V0 Boulder

1.2. Gibraltar Peak 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 148.947761, -35.458601

Description:©

Varied climbing on a prominent collection of boulders. Lots of slabs, a few great aretes and some stellar crack climbs make for a good day out. Most climbs get the sun, making Gibraltar a good winter destination, although there are some good shady climbs as well. Gibraltar is in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and is a popular day walk destination, so you can gawk at the tourists having lunch as you do your climb.

Approach:©

The first option is from the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve. Take the main Tidbinbilla Reserve Road and park at the first dirt carpark on the right. Walk up a (steep) track for 45-60 minutes to the peak - clearly signposted. GPS reference for the carpark is -35.44871,148.92669. Note you will have to pay entry costs - $11 per car or $32 per year in 2015. The reserve gates are locked at 6pm in winter and 8pm in summer.

The second option is from Corin Road. Park opposite a gated track at GPS coordinates -35.45857,148.94753. Walk up the track, circling around 'The Fortress' after 600m. Continue steeply up the firetrail until you get to the peak (40 minutes).

The peak itself can be found at GPS coords -35.46732,148.95489.

1.2.1. Trackside 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.946688, -35.459017

Description:©

This area is the first you come to, stretching to the left and right of the walking track where you first see a small cliffline. 'Another Roadside Attraction' is the prominent corner with a small roof, just right of the walking track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The following four climbs are to the left of the walking track.

1 Open Project

There is a photo of this fine route up an orange open-book corner on the inside cover of the ACT Granite Guide. The first two thirds are about grade 23 and nice climbing. The last few metres will be 27 or 28 and are tenuous and thin. The start is left and around the corner from Poultry in Motion.

Sport Project
2 Poultry in Motion

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. Belay on shrubs and gear. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

20 Mixed 10m, 3
3 Legless

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

20 Trad 15m
4 * Armless

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick McGregor, 1977

21 Trad 20m
5 Blue Stumps

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

FA: Anne Hastings, Caron Avis, 1987

12 Trad 10m
6 Blue Lights

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, 1982

18 Trad 15m
7 Lengthways Chinaman

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Margaret Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

10 Trad 15m
8 Dubious Tactics

Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

FA: John Finnigan, Lincoln Hall, Will Steffen, 1982

14 Trad 15m
9 * Another Roadside Attraction

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

FA: Phill Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

20 Trad 15m
10 Kate's Bush

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1988

16 Trad 10m
11 Bad Luck Sir

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1988

23 Mixed 12m, 2
12 Crack of Ionic Finger Strength

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Bill Coddington, 1988

13 Trad 10m
13 Plasticine People

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

FA: Tony Barten, Gordon Poultney, 1987

19 Sport 7m

1.2.2. Shady side 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947648, -35.459493

Description:©

To the right of the Trackside sector are a few boulders and slabs that stay in the shade much of the time. There is one excellent climb past the moss.

Approach:©

From Another Roadside Attraction, walk right (passing under 'Bad Luck Sir') and slightly downhill away from the boulders until you break through the bushes into more open ground. Follow a vague track along the contour, sticking below any boulders that look big enough to climb on. 'Arse Bandit' and nearby climbs can be reached by going up a short gully between boulders after 50m or so. To get to 'Rimmon Crack' keep following the contour for another 30m to a squashed-looking boulder with a horizontal crack on the downhill side. 60m further along the contour is another group of boulders, with 'Overnight Sensation' on the downhill side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Arse Bandit

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

FA: Peter Fisk, Mike Peck, 1984

21 Sport 20m, 2
2 Rock and Birds

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

19 Trad 12m
3 Barry the Radish

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

20 Trad 20m
4 Rimmon Crack

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, Armando Corvini, Graham Reilly, 1985

20 Trad 10m
5 ** Overnight Sensation

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 150 metres right from 'Another Roadside Attraction'.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, 1978

21 Trad 18m

1.2.3. Frenchies 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947121, -35.458690

Approach:©

A little tricky to find the first time. As you are walking up the tourist approach track, you will pass through a gap between boulders about 1m wide, which will make you want to lean to the left as you go through it. 10m beyond the gap turn left (North) off the tourist track. (If you miss the turn you will go through another not-quite-as-narrow gap 5m later). Wind your way through the bushes for 15m, then turn right down a gully under a wedged boulder. Where you emerge from the gully, on your right is the start of Heckmondwike Twist. Straight ahead a boulder juts out with Porcupine Pie and the bolted offwidth roof. To the left is the French Connections boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheesecake

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

FA: Peter Cocker, John Finnigan, 1975

12 Trad 15m
2 ** Moth

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

FA: B.Aikman, 2014

24 Trad 15m
3 * Porcupine Pie

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

FA: Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

20 Sport 10m, 2
4 * Heckmondwike Twist

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

FA: John Finnigan, Peter Cocker, 1975

17 Trad 20m
5 ** French Connections

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

26 Sport 13m, 4
6 Defined by the First Contraction

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

FA: Richard Watts, Matthew Rogerson, 1990

24 Mixed 15m, 1
7 Jihad Chimney

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

16 Trad 14m
8 * Jihad

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

FA: Matthew Rogerson, Richard Watts, 1990

23 Sport 14m, 3

1.2.4. Juveniles area 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947255, -35.458462

Approach:©

Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 JAM (Just Another Megaroute)

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

14 Trad 15m
2 Fun Climb

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

FA: 2010

15 Mixed 20m, 3
3 * Juveniles and Geriatrics / Juveniles

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

  1. 15m (15, cux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

  2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Rebolted 2005 (Approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Anne Hastings (alt), 1987

15 Mixed 30m 2, 5
4 Blagdon P2

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

13 Trad 15m
5 * Labor Pains

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low. In 2014 part of the tree had fallen onto the slab, meaning it might need trimming. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

17 Sport 15m, 3

1.2.5. Black wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.946945, -35.458496

Approach:©

Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

Descent Notes:©

'Le Muir Noir' through to 'Fast Living' all require you to belay from the top (wrap the rope around a boulder or use the chains). Rap chains allow you to rap either down to the 'Frenchies' area or to the base of Le Muir Noir.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Aubergine Dream

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Oliver Story, 2010

24 Sport 15m, 6
2 * Le Muir Noir

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Blagdon' P1, 'Oddball' etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

FA: Tony Barten, 1989

25 Sport 12m, 5
3 Back on Black

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1990

24 Sport 15m
4 ** Antipodean Atrocities

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

25 Sport 20m, 4
5 * McCoys Arete

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, 1987

22 Sport 10m, 4
6 Fast Living

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

24 Mixed 13m, 3
7 Atom Ant

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete', about level with 'Fast Living'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

22 Trad 13m

1.2.6. No Glove 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947025, -35.458343

Description:©

This area comprises two boulders split by the chimney / offwidth crack of Blagdon. The left-hand No Glove boulder has excellent longer slab routes. The right-hand Oddball boulder is now fire-affected with a lot of loose flakes - take extra care if you decide to launch up any of these climbs.

Approach:©

Initial approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m to Juvenilles and Geriatrics (the black slab on your right). From here you have two options. The traditional access (and OK for No Glove) is to scramble down the steep gully just past Juveniles, with the No Glove boulder on your left as you go down. Alternatively, scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt to DBB and rap in. This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. For No Glove, rap and tension left to clip into the leftmost line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable (and required for the other routes). For When Only The Best Will Do and all routes to its right, extend the anchor with a long sling and rap down WOTBWD - a 60m rope just reaches.

Descent Notes:©

Rap 5m off the back of the boulder to near the start of Juveniles.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** No Glove No Love / No Glove

Quality well protected slabbing.

Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start.

The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start. Rebolted in 2006 (approx).

FA: Gordon Poultney, Craig Kentwell, Adam Blizzard, 1987

18 Mixed 25m, 3
2 * On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1984

19 Sport 30m, 2
3 On the Beach Direct Start

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

18 Sport 30m, 1
4 ** When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

Rebolted 2008.

FA: Mike Law-Smith,Rob Topfer, John Finnigan, 1982

20 Sport 32m, 4
5 ** Forever Present

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

FA: @oliverstory,Daniel Gordon, 12th Apr

17 Sport 30m, 7
6 Blagdon / Blagdon Amateur Rapist

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge.

  1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles.

  2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

  3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

FA: John Finnigan, 1976

15 Trad 80m 3

The following climbs are on the Oddball boulder, which forms the right-hand side of Blagdon's first pitch. Watch out for loose flakes. Belay a the No Glove anchor.

7 Rite of Passage

Climb the chimney of 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' for five metres to an obvious break on the right wall. Move right onto the slab and traverse right at the weakness to the right arete. Up the arete ('No Easy Street') to finish.

FA: John Finnigan, 1985

16 Trad 30m
8 No Easy Street

Technically easy, but poor protection and poor rock make this an interesting excursion. Start 10 metres down and right from 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist'. Climb the slab and arete, then up the ramp to a #2 RP placement; continue up the arete to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Peter Fisk, 1983

15 Trad 30m
9 Haircare Make-up Drugs

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Mike Peck, 1987

19 Sport 25m, 2
10 * Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer, 1982

19 Sport 25m, 2
11 Going Troppo

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1982

22 Sport 30m, 4

The following climb is on its own boulder just right of Oddball, but might be best approached via Frenchies area by walking past French Connections and McCoys Arete.

12 Changes

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Adrienne Smith, 1987

20 Trad 20m

1.2.7. Southern Tablelands 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947648, -35.458658

Description:©

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

Approach:©

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down towards the Nailbiter spike, keeping the wall on your left. The first route you come to is Boomtown Refugee. If you keep following the wall you will get to the top of a short chimney choked by boulders. Scramble down this and around the corner to the start of Scarborough Fair. From here you can scramble up to the base of the Knife Edge Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boomtown Refugee

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

FA: Craig Kentwell, 1988

22 Mixed 10m, 1
2 Holds Go Begging

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Richard Watts, Dave McGregor, 1985

23 Sport 15m, 3
3 Dim Parkio

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

23 Sport 15m, 4
4 Tri-State

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Tim Chapman, Geoff Kennett, 1982

21 Sport 15m, 2
5 The Groove

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

8 Trad 20m
6 Dear Prudence

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Matthew Larkin, 1982

17 Trad 25m
7 Revolution

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

19 Mixed 8m, 2
8 Tiptoe

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

13 Trad 25m
9 * Hey Jude

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, John "Chaz" Wood, 1978

18 Trad 25m
10 Cornucopia

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

23 Mixed 25m, 1
11 ** Scarborough Fair

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double bolt belay.

FA: Damien Jones, "Chaz" unable to follow, 1978

18 Trad 35m
12 *** Scarborough Fair (Roof Variant)

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Unknown

20 Trad 35m
13 Trivial Pursuits

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

FA: Dave McGregor, Simon Carter, Dave Sargent, 1985

24 Mixed 10m, 2
14 * Parole

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

22 Mixed 25m, 2

Happy Piggyland and Simply Salsa are best accessed via the Frenchies area. From Heckmondwike Twist, walk under the knife-edge boulder to the bottom of the wall down in The Pits.

15 * Happy Piggyland

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

FA: John Stone, John Carlson, 1980

FFA: Adam Blizzard, Neil Montgomery, 1987

22 Mixed 35m, 1
16 Simply Salsa

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

FA: R. Carey, 2003

20 Mixed 35m, 4

1.2.8. Knife Edge Boulder 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 148.947347, -35.458578

Description:©

Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.

Approach:©

Scramble around from the start of 'Scarborough Fair'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * V1 Special

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer

22 Sport 15m, 3
2 ** Fouled Up Turkey

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Rob Topfer

20 Sport 15m, 3
3 Holy Guacamole

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

FA: Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, Anne Hastings, Caron Avis, 1987

17 Sport 5m, 2
4 * Flip, Flop, Fly

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

Set by Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, Simon Carter, Anthony Budd, Alistair Hunt, 1987

16 Sport 5m, 2

1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.947836, -35.458479

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bart's Mate, Joker

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Tara Sutherland, Richard Watts, 1991

20 Sport 15m, 4
2 Lord Bailey

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1991

27 M0 Sport 10m, 4
3 *** Skylark

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

24 Mixed 28m, 4
4 * Consumer Item

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter. Rebolted 2009 and a lower bolt added.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

19 Sport 10m, 3
5 ** Nail Biter

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

FA: Ray Lassman, Ian Thomas, 1975

16 Trad 10m
6 Strong Persuader

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Phil Georgeff, Tony Barton, 1987

21 Sport 10m, 3
7 Aid Route

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

  1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

  2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

FA: John Finnigan (#1), Damien Jones, Phil Cullen (#2), 1978

20 M2 Aid 25m

1.2.10. Summit Boulders 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.948063, -35.459067

Description:

Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

Descent Notes:©

All boulders have rap chains or lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Spiders

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

21 Sport 20m 2, 2
2 At the Stillpoint of Destruction

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts, now back in its natural state of none.

FA: Tony Barten, George Poultney, 1987

22 Trad 12m
3 * Fat and Healthy

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

24 Sport 13m, 3
4 Open project

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Sport Project 14m, 2
5 * Sound as a Trout

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station. Bolts replaced 2007 (approx)

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

21 Mixed 13m, 3
6 White Rabbit

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Anne Hastings, Mike Peck, Tony Barton, Caron Avis, 1987

16 Sport 10m, 2
7 Get Your Motors Running

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness. Rebolted in 2007 (approx).

FA: Phil Cullen, Mark Lithgow, 1978

12 Mixed 20m, 2
8 Piltdown Man

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

15 Trad 15m
9 ** Roxley R.I.P.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall. Rebolted 2010.

FA: Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1992

22 Sport 15m, 6
10 Piglets in Paradise

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group of boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

FA: Steve Harper, Scott Albutt, 1984

15 Trad 24m
11 Midsummer Madness

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab past a bolt to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub. Take Camalot 2-4.

FA: Phil Cullen, Damien Jones, 1977

18 Mixed 21m, 1
12 The Lecher

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

FA: Damien Jones, Judy Costin, 1977

10 Trad 20m

1.2.11. Skippy's Slab area 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.948120, -35.458812

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 My Name is Luka

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

FA: Caron Avis, Ann Hastings, 1987

14 Sport 15m, 1
2 Skippy's Slab

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

FA: Caron Avis, 1987

15 Mixed 12m, 1
3 * Goony Waltz

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

FA: The whole of Canberra, 1987

17 Sport 10m, 2
4 * Love Vigilante

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1989

20 Sport 12m, 4

1.2.12. Egg Cave 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.948328, -35.458661

Approach:©

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down a short gully for 15m. Turn right and skirt under the 'Skippy Slab' boulder, passing Picasso on your right to reach the cave formed by a huge balanced boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pecasso

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

FFA: Tony Barten, 1988

24 Sport 20m, 5
2 * Who's Better, Who's Best

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

FA: Craig Kentwell, Phil Georgeff, Anne Hastings, 1988

17 Sport 12m, 3
3 * My Generation

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, 1987

22 Sport 20m, 6
4 Project

Start in the tunnel 3m left of Gorgeous Turn Me On.

Unknown Project
5 Gorgeous Turn Me On

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

FA: Gordon Turner (solo) 1990s, 1995

20 Trad 10m
6 Easy Rider

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

  1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

  2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

  3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

FA: George Renn, 1988

15 Sport 31m 3, 5
7 Milwaukee Pig Iron

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

FA: George Rehn, 1988

18 Sport 10m, 3
8 * Sticky Fingers

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1988

23 Trad 30m

1.2.13. Marzipan 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.948477, -35.458402

Description:©

Climbs described left to right.

Approach:©

From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. As you go down the gully the Marzipan area is to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Down By Law

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1988

23 Trad 15m
2 Return of the Marzipan Kid

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

FA: Tony Barten (solo), 1987

18 Trad 15m
3 Flying Leathernecks

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1988

21 Mixed 15m, 2

1.2.14. Monkey Level 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947758, -35.458279

Approach:©

Option 1: From the uphill side of the Nailbiter boulder, head towards Canberra and steeply downhill for 30m, initially with the 'Egg Cave' area to your right and then down a short gully. Skirt around left under the Ape boulder to walk around to Chicken Run. To get to Swinging Seat, Monkey Business and the Nondescript Boulder, continue past Chicken Run and back uphill slightly.

Option 2: Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully. Go left for Swinging Seat and the Nondescript Boulder, and right for Chicken Run and Ape.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ape

Straight up the chimney, belaying on the large ledge at half height. It is possible to climb either pitch independently.

Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

FA: Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, Peter Mills; Peter Mills, Damien Jones, Richard Curtis, 1974

16 Trad 40m 2
2 Free Tibet

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step left of the chimney and onto the face. Up past three bolts.

FA: Armando Corvini, Jacob Greber, 1992

20 Mixed 25m, 3
3 Ape Escape

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately right onto the face and up. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten, Phil Georgeff, 1987

20 Mixed 20m, 4
4 Chicken Run

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen, 1982

18 Trad 35m
5 Swinging Seat

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

  1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

  2. 13 metres - Through the cave and exit up the V-crack to the top.

FA: C Larque, R Curtis (alt), 1974

19 Trad 30m 2
6 * Monkey Business

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Find a dead branch and lean it against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1984

21 Mixed 25m, 2
7 The Squeeze

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.

FA: Peter Riddy, Tony Wood (alt.), 1975

13 Trad 50m

1.2.15. Non-Descript Boulder 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947327, -35.458063

Description:©

The Non-Descript boulder is a large, low, mossy boulder with a couple of nice easy trad climbs near the No Glove slabs and directly downhill from 'Swinging Seat'.

Approach:©

Various approaches are possible via Monkey Level or the No Glove area, but this one should stay relatively free of scrub! Find the start of Scarborough Fair in the Southern Tablelands area. Directly behind you is a hole. Scramble through this then down the gully, taking the left-hand fork (facing out) once you are out of the cave. The Nondescript Boulder should be straight ahead of you.

Descent Notes:©

Rap chain above 'The Seventh Hedgehog'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The First Echidna

The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb.

FA: Toby Story, Oliver Story, 2014

6 Trad 10m
2 Captain America

Might not exist any more. A large column has fallen off, meaning the obvious rightwards leaning corner is now closed and blank.

FA: John Stone

16 Trad 12m
3 The Seventh Hedgehog

The right-facing corner crack leading to a blocky finish. Chain belay.

FA: John Stone, Hugh Stone, S. Raiser, Mike Peck, 1979

14 Trad 20m

1.2.16. Safari Bouders 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.947406, -35.457152

Approach:©

These boulders are easily accessible from the Tidbinbilla walking track. From the saddle, follow the walking track downhill towards Tidbinbilla. For 'Professor Longhair' leave the track at the 'Granites' sign. 'Mario' is right next to the track just before the lookout platform at the first switchback. For the other routes continue down the track to the third switchback (with 19 steps), passing a boulder with a handrail 30m before the switchback. At the switchback turn right and follow a faint foot pad along the contour for 50m.

Descent Notes:©

Rap anchor on top of the 'Low Hydrogen' boulder. Other boulders just scramble off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

14 Trad 10m
2 Mario and the Blue Angels

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

17 Trad 15m
3 One for the Road

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

FA: Geoff Gardiner, Geoff Fraser, 2014

17 Trad 8m
4 Low Hydrogen

The easiest crack on the uphill side of the boulder. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

16 Trad 13m
5 Faint Hearted

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

FA: Anne Hastings, Phil Georgeff, 1987

17 Trad 14m
6 Fish in a Barrel

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

FA: D Anderson-Smith, D McGregor, 2014

18 Trad 13m
7 Broken Window

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1987

FFA: Oliver Story, 2013

22 Trad 15m
8 Locomotion

The hand crack on an isolated boulder 20m right (looking uphill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Caron Avis, 1987

17 Trad 8m

1.3. Pox Rox 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.951768, -35.460667

Description:©

These miniscule boulders can be found near the road, 60 metres past the gate on the way down to 'The Jism' or 'The Fortress' from 'Gibraltar Peak'. Most of the routes were probably done before the ACT Granite Guide reported them. The main group of boulders is on the left (walking from Gibralter towards The Fortress).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Umbalah Crack

This obscure 'gem' can be found on the way, 20 metres to the left of the road, just before the gate. It is a short curving hand crack on a boulder.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1984

16 Trad 8m
2 No Reservations

The short hand crack in the main group, facing the road.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck (solo), 1987

15 Trad 5m
3 Snow Storm

The first crack and flake to a bolt belay, on the next boulder. Climbed in a blizzard.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, 1987

14 Trad 10m
4 Snow Flake

The layback flake five metres right of 'Snow Storm'.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard, 1987

15 Trad 12m
5 Much Man

Up the thin crack five metres right of 'Snowflake', right up to a flake and finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

16 Trad 12m
6 Small Pox

The short corner on the back of the boulder. Up to a block, then easily up the mossy slab to the top.

FA: Mike Peck (solo), 1987

18 Trad 12m
7 Le Tour

On an isolated boulder down from 'Small Pox'. Steeply up to first bolt (crux) then follow the groove past another bolt to a single bolt rap station. Bolted by persons unknock.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Rebecca McLeod, 1996

21 Trad 15m
8 No Stone Unturned

On the southern side of the road. Climb the easy crack and gully.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard (solo), 1987

13 Trad 10m

1.4. The Jism 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.955905, -35.461289

Description:©

Further down the track from 'Pox Rox' (or at the top of the hill beyond 'The Fortress') is an impressive spire on the left (over a fence), with one significant climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Future Shock

The obvious shallow crack facing the road. It was originally aided and called 'The Jism', but was freed and renamed.

FA: Phil Cullen

FFA: John Smart, 1978

23 Trad 18m
2 Rangehon

The line on the opposite side of the boulder. Up to the leftward diagonal break, and up this to a hotizontal break. Move right and up to a peg belay. Downclimb the offwidth to get off.

FA: Pat Butler, 1982

19 Trad 10m
3 T.V. Glotzer

Miniscule. The flake formed crack on the boulder five metres left of 'Rangehen'.

FA: Greg Pritchard, 1982

16 Trad 6m
4 White Cloud

The crack-cum-off-width around and left from 'Future Shock'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1987

16 Trad 10m

1.5. The Fortress 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.960243, -35.461772

Description:©

A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here.

A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.

Approach:©

Follow the track to a large clearing on the saddle. It is usually possible to drive to this point in a 2WD. The track continues uphill to 'The Jism' and 'Gibraltar Peak'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mushroom Outing

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'.

FA: Greg Lane and friends

Aid 5m, 3
2 Night Fall

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

18 Mixed 8m, 2
3 Anything'll Do

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch your seconds...

FA: Dave Sargent, Paul Mason, 1987

22 Mixed 10m, 2
4 Carnage

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of No Fat Chicks. Sit start V5.

FA: B. Aikman, 2013

V3 Trad 7m
5 No Fat Chicks

A slabby wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder. The bolted climb to the left, starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay has not been claimed, but goes at around 17 or 18. The bolt with the large hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder has also not been reported.

FA: Geoff Filmer, Damian Jovanovic, 1995

19 Mixed 8m, 3
6 Fake Crack

Location: South-south-east of the mushroom; 30m around to the right from No Fat Chicks; in a short gully; right hand end of a mossy wall. Follows the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

21 Sport 8m, 3
7 Offwidth left of Sentry Duty

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details

16 Trad 10m
8 ** Sentry Duty

The obvious crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis, Damien Jones, 1975

15 Trad 10m
9 * Apprentice's Edge

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux; originally three bolts, but six at last count.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Kean, 1986

24 Sport 10m, 6
10 Flying Arkwright

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

16 Trad 10m
11 Postern

On a small group of boulders some 30 metres east (towards Corin Road) from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice jamming up the small right angled corner crack on the downhill side.

FA: Matt Madin, Richard Watts, 1981

17 Trad 10m

The next four climbs are on the isolated boulder 20 metres down and left (north) from the main 'mushroom' boulder.

12 Paternity Ward

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

16 Trad 7m
13 Scratched Record

The wavey slab just left of Blood on His Lips. A high 1st bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off. Rebolted 2011.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

23 Sport 10m, 2
14 * Blood on His Lips

The obvious thin crack, undercut at its base.

FA: R Curtis, J Finnegan, 1975

16 Trad 10m
15 Flex

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

22 Trad 10m
16 Unknown 1

5m right of Flex. Up past bolts.

Sport 10m

1.6. Snake Rock 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 148.953291, -35.479142

Description:

The original ACT Granite description: Slumped on the eastern side of the Corin Valley is an unimpressive pile of yellow/brown granite about to slide down into the creek. Close up, it's rather reminiscent of gritstone and has some classic short routes in the range 18-26 (complete with bolts, very unreminiscent of gritstone). A good alternative to 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Fortress' in winter. It is in the sun most of the day.

New description: Snake Rock has become a popular little spot for getting out and about, particularly during winter when you can make the most of full sunshine on the granite. With some additional routes having been put up in sport style in addition to the earlier trad routes, the crag is now suitable for a large range of experience and interests.

Just watch out if you're doing routes on the upper tier - consider slinging a rope to keep you from dropping off the ledge.

Approach:©

The crag is opposite the turn off to 'Gibraltar Peak', visible from the road. Drive about 3.9 kilometres down the Corin Road. Turn left at a yellow road sign (i.e. just before the 'Gibraltar Peak' turnoff. Drive down the dirt to the edge of the native bush and walk south along the pine forest boundary for 200 metres to a cairn, just as the track heads uphill. Walk down left through bush to cross the creek and then head uphill to the crag (about 10 minutes).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Small Things Amuse

This small slanting handcrack faces Gibralter Creek in a small tor slightly higher than and about 400m north of Snake Rock. It is probably the only climb here.

FA: John Wilson, Gary Ewart, 2005

15 Trad 6m

1.6.1. Scooby 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scooby

FA: Willem Grant-Ryan, 2012

7 Top rope 7m
2 Shaggy

FA: Willem Grant-Ryan, 2012

7 Top rope 7m
3 Fashion Fairytale

FA: Ingrid Grant-Ryan

3 Top rope 9m

1.6.2. Upper Tier 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Yohan

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

19 Sport 7m
2 Usain

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

22 Sport 7m
3 Asafa

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

21 Sport 7m
4 Scaled

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

14 Sport 7m
5 Non-Venomous

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

13 Sport 7m
6 Twin Set

FA: Twin Set, 1997

18 Trad 7m

1.6.3. Lower Tier 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Garden Lost

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

9 Sport 7m
2 It Was Complicated

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

24 Sport 10m
3 Conflict Therapy (hard start)

2m to the left of Little Cherie

FA: Justin Ryan, Lionel Meynadier, 2008

22 Sport 10m, 4
4 Conflict Therapy (easy start)

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

19 Sport 10m
5 Little Cherie

Up the nose of the lower left tier, just left of Puff Adder

FA: Lionel Meynadier, Justin Ryan, 2008

18 Sport 10m, 4
6 Puff Adder

The crack system left of the orange streak. Was a thin trad lead; now a great sport climb.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

18 Sport 7m, 4
7 Chasing Amy

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak. Either finish at the lower-off on the ledge, or follow the crack up through two more bulges (Twin Set).

FA: Jonathan Edwards, Jamie Valdivia (both led), 1997

24 Trad 12m
8 Electra Luxx

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

24 Sport 10m
9 Snakes and Ladders

The layback crack on the right hand side of the lower tier. Up the crack. Finish at the half-height anchor. Better than it looks.

FA: John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, Mike Peck, 1997

16 Trad 12m
10 Snakes and Ladders direct finish

As for Snakes and Ladders, but from the anchor continue up the arete past two bolts to the top.

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, 1997

17 Mixed 17m, 2
11 Jelly Bean

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

8 Sport 7m
12 Wires In The Hand

FA: Dave Anderson-Smith, 2012

14 Sport 7m
13 Energy Efficiency

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

17 Sport 7m

1.6.4. The Ampitheatre 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bergenhardia

The short arete high up on the left of the ampitheatre. Take care clipping the second bolt.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

23 Sport 5m, 2
2 Copperhead

FA: Dave McGregor, 2012

22 Sport 7m
3 Legless Lizard

FA: Dave McGregor

11 Sport 10m
4 Arrow of Time

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

21 Sport
5 Slithering Sideways

FA: Dave Anderson-Smith, 2012

16 Sport 12m
6 Slithering Direct

Set by Dave Anderson-Smith, 2013

FA: Thomas Polden, 2013

18 Sport 12m

1.6.5. The Buttresss 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Black Adder

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

19 Sport 10m, 4
2 Disco Cobra / Disco Disco

The orange arete right of BA and left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over rooflet. Start with the first one or two bolts clipped.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2008

26 Sport 12m
3 ** Crawlin' King Snake

Superb sustained climbing, every move worthwhile. The obvious orange corner crack to a roof and bolt. Move right then finish back up the slab past one more bolt.

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, 1997

23 Mixed 15m, 2
4 King Cobra Link-up

Start as for Crawlin' King Snake. Traverse right along horizontal break on natural pro and finish up the Disco Cobra slab to top-out. Retro-trad run-out for purists.

23 Trad 12m
5 Spitting Viper

A climb of two contrasting styles. Up the arete right of CKS. Bouldery start.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

26 Sport 14m
6 ** Snake-in-the-Grass

The arete on the right hand side of the orange buttress past three bolts. Cam in break.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Eadie, 1997

20 Mixed 15m, 3
7 * Reptilian

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#3-#4 metolius). Lower down Red Belly.

FA: D.McGregor, 2002

25 Sport 13m, 5
8 ** Red Belly

The sustained thin corner right of Reptilian with two bolts at the finish (crux).

FA: Mike Peck, John Churchill, Catherine Eadie, 1997

22 Mixed 12m, 2
9 Pythonista

A good, hard climb if you can contrive it.

The arete right of Red Belly and left of OET.

Up the arete, avoiding the OET crack and its edges to the right. Optional small cam (#3 metolius) in break. Lower down Red Belly.

FA: Oliver Story, 2012

24 Sport 12m, 5
10 One Eyed Trousersnake

Take your #4 camalot and enjoy. The chimney/offwidth/layback.

FA: John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1997

18 Trad 10m
11 ** Snakeskin Shuffle

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past four bolts.

FA: Mike Peck, Catherine Easie, 1997

19 Sport 12m, 4
12 Anacondan

Up the right side of the nose then arete, on bolts.

Alternatively, as for the first ascent - Up the corner to the right of the nose of SS (small cam / wires) to ledge (#7 nut / small cam). Up the right side of the arete past 2 bolts.

FA: Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 2012

20 Sport 12m, 4

1.7. Bandito Wall 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 148.944742, -35.474094

Description:

This little crag sits just above a creek. The rock quality is excellent with some great routes at all grades. Probably the most accessible crag in Canberra. It became apparent to Chris Warner who developed most of the climbs after the 2003 bushfires cleared the landscape. Shady in the morning in summer, and most of the day in winter.

Approach:

Look for a small gated fire trail on the right at the end of the left sweeping curve, a few hundred metres before the turnoff to Woods Reserve - keep an eye out for the creek gully and its passage under the road. Park by the side of the road at Longitude 148.94667, Latitude -35.47771. Walk down the fire trail for 50m. Leave the firetrail on the other side of the creek, and follow a foot pad on the northern side of the creek for 5 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spaghetti O's

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginners lead.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

10 Trad 10m
2 * Blood for a Silver Dollar

Start a couple of metres right of 'Spaghetti O's'. Hard moves off the ground following seam then crack. Continue past 2 BRs to lower offs. Anchors and top BR replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

17 Mixed 12m, 2
3 ** Django the Bastard

The crack just right of 'Blood for a Silver Dollar'. Step left at the top to use the same anchors.Take some smaller cams. No excuse if its wet...

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

18 Trad 12m
4 ** Death Rides Alone

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard'.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

19 Sport 15m, 6
5 Machine Gun Killers

Steep slab to the right of 'Death Rides Alone' that shares the same anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

23 Sport 15m, 7
6 * Mercenario

The line right of Machine Gun Killers.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2014

25 Sport 14m, 7
7 Project - Chris

Will be a direct start to FAFDM

Sport Project
8 * For a Few Dollars More

Shares a start with 'Dollars for a Fast Gun', but heads left and follows the weakness.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

24 Sport 16m, 6
9 *** Dollars for a Fast Gun

The very right hand line and the first you come to. Great balance move through onto the steep slab.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

23 Sport 13m, 5

1.8. The Hideout 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.943890, -35.473511

Description:

A few gems at this tiny crag! When it is seeping at the sister cliff - Bandido Wall, you may find something drier to climb here. To find it, walk a further three minutes up the valley from Bandido.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** For a Fist in the Eye

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck, into and up the wide crack, obvious traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

12 Trad 12m
2 * Hole in the Forehead

Start on the same block as FAFITE. Committing start to get established in the corner. Layback to glory. It is possible to step right to the AS anchor.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

15 Trad 10m
3 ** Adios Sabata

The left of the bolted lines. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

21 Sport 15m, 4
4 * Vengeance is a Dish Best Served Cold

The right hand bolted line. Hard moves below last bolt with potentially bad fall consequences giving a satisfying lead. Anchors replaced 2010.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

18 Sport 14m, 5
5 Knuckle Fight

Start at twin cracks that lead into an obvious corner.

FA: Chris Warner, 2005

16 Trad 12m

1.9. Gibraltar Falls 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.934641, -35.486570

Description:©

Quite a nice spot to cool down in summer after visiting 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Bank', with a natural sauna at the top of the falls. The actual rock is rather limited.

The area has been visited by every man and his dog over the years, due to the superb sealed access; some rusty machine nuts survive from the dark ages. While various climbs have been soloed, led or top-roped, no details survive and the following names and grades were from a reconnaissance trip before the most recent ACT Granite was printed.

There is a bouldering wall high on the far (eastern) side, slightly above the level of the top of the falls, with a wide range of cracks, chimneys and slab climbs.

For slightly more serious climbing, follow the tourists down to the lookout. The best climbing is on the wall below this; most routes can be top-roped. Abseil in or jump the fence and scramble down the blocky arete at the downstream end. Watch out for interference with belays and flying rocks; the spot is incredibly popular with abseilers. The bottom of the climbs can be wet if the water level is high.

Approach:©

Drive along Corin Road and turn left into the well marked car park above Woods Reserve.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Climbs are described from left to right on the western wall

1 * Offspring

Doesn't let up; the best of the lot here. Jump start (crux; it is also possible to traverse in from the right) to a horizontal break two metres left of 'Barbary Ape' and up the thin crack to a mantle (second crux). Finish up through the rooflets.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

20 Trad 10m
2 Angel Wings

The broken crack system from the ground to the top, finishing up the flared chimney.

FA: Unknown

15 Trad 15m
3 Tiny Teds

Start one metre right of 'Angel Wings'. Up the wall to a good undercling, then through the rooflet on good edges. Needs a bolt (climbed with a high runner in the crack).

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

17 Trad 6m

The cliff opposite the lookout is broken, but there is some tolerable climbing at stream level opposite and slightly downstream. Described right to left.

4 Cinders

Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack.

FA: John Churchill, James Cotsell, 1996

14 Trad 10m
5 Barbary Ape

Further left. Up the corner through a roof to the layback crack. Traverse right to a small tree to finish.

FA: James Cotsell, John Churchill, 1996

19 Trad 10m

1.10. Billy Billy 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.895616, -35.505583

Unique Features And Strengths:©

Excellent granite crack climbing across a range of grades, with a couple of stunning arêtes as well.

Description:©

With sweeping vistas of the Brindabella Ranges and Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, Billy Billy Rocks offers far more than just your typical day clocking up mileage on granite in the ACT. This is granite crack climbing at its best in the territory, dragging you off the beaten track to a dramatic bush eyrie high above the Tidbinbilla valley.

Facing generally north to north west, climbing is possible here year round. The style is predominantly first-rate splitter cracks on boulders littered across the rocky tor, ranging from finger tips through hands to full body shredding off widths if that takes your fancy. The quality of crack to be found at Billy Billy is so good it had one international visitor exclaiming “this would be a three star route at J-Tree”.

The climbs are steep at Billy Billy, (steep for A.C.T. granite, at least). There are numerous cracks in the 11-23 range, a few airy arêtes in the low-mid 20’s and the potential for more finds awaiting you just around the corner…

Keep in mind this is a wilderness crag – phone reception is limited, the walking track in is rough (taking approx. 1 hour from car to crag) and the weather highly variable with the potential for four seasons in one day – keep an eye on the Mt Ginini forecast on the Bureau’s website. Come prepared with head torches, multiple clothing layers and a first aid kit, as well as a navigational device just in case (and know how to use it!).

The climbs all pack in plenty of value, so rope up and enjoy the unique experience that is everything Billy Billy Rocks, Canberra’s newest climbing destination.

Access Issues:©

Billy Billy straddles the boundary of Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and Namadgi National Park. Rock climbing is permitted both in Namadgi and under the Tidbinbilla plan of management, except at significant Aboriginal sites.

Approach:©

Drive up Corin Road, passing Gibraltar Falls and eventually crossing Billy Billy Creek (signposted). 200m beyond is an old blocked-off forestry road on the right, immediately before a 45km/h left-hand bend. Park here.

Walk up the old forestry road for 100m, leave the road (turning left) at a small cairn and grassy area. Head uphill and pick up the trail marked with orange tape (faint trail at first, become clearer after a while). Cairns mark the way through rocky sections. The trail goes up the spur for 700m, where you reach a rocky knoll about 8m high (and pass through the fat-arse filter). 500m further along the ridge you reach a flat rock platform with a view of the crag across the mini-valley. The trail then drops down a bit, heading towards the right-hand end of the crag, and crossing the headwaters of Billy Billy Creek (via a convenient log). After the creek crossing, and another uphill section, the trail deposits you at the awesome viewing spot of the Picnic Sector, from where you can look out over Tidbinbilla to Canberra.

Where To Stay:©

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve is designated a day use area. The nearest camping is at Woods Reserve, back down on the Corin Road.

Ethic:©

This crag has been developed with an old-school trad and mixed ethic, bolts are not used when natural gear is available. Try to muster some common sense when deciding whether or not to bolt routes, nobody will walk up that hill to repeat no-star generic slabs.

Most of the cracks at Billy Billy have required extensive brushing to bring them up to a standard of cleanliness which is palatable to the average climber. Routes which are claimed but inadequately cleaned are likely to have the f.a. details "lost", and naming rights handed over to the person who puts in the hard work. Also, if you stumble upon an unrecorded route which is spotlessly clean (and especially if you see a pile of lichen at the base), there's a fair chance that it's somebody else's unfinished business. Whilst there isn't such a thing as a closed crack project, be aware that "brushing debt" is taken rather seriously and must be repaid in full (I'm looking at you, Nick Brown!)

1.10.1. Picnic 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.897449, -35.505429

Approach:

The area at which you first arrive via the walk-in track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Not My Nirvana

Mantle onto the pillar, then up the finger and hand crack.

FA: Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 2014

19 Trad 10m
2 ** Kneel before Zod!

“Quite possibly the best tips crack this side of the black stump”. Would be three stars but for its down market location and cheating potential. Hidden on a wall in the chimney on the other side of “Cold in July” and approached deviously from the other side of this.

Finger sized gear from #0.3 to #0.5 camalots (mostly around #0.4) or equivalent.

For the grade (and the glory) use of the opposing chimney wall is banned i.e. start directly off the chockstones at its base NOT off the ledge on the wall immediately behind you. Finish up the easy brushed slab where the crack curves to horizontal a few metres below the top. Bolt belay/rap-off.

And no whinging about water ice on the wall next to the crack and 2 inches of snow on the starting chockstone and on the top slab - it hasn’t been climbed any other way.

So get off your knees, kiss your tips, say goodbye and it’ll all be over in less time than it takes you to read the route description.

FA: Dave McGregor, 2014

22 Trad 15m
3 ** Cold in July

The prominent corner crack with flared start.

FA: B. Aikman, D. McGregor, 2014

22 Trad 15m
4 * Just a Tease

The clean off-width problem just left of the entrance to the 'No Respect' alcove.

FA: Bjorn Aikman, 2014

V3 Boulder 5m
5 *** No Respect

Hidden in a little alcove, reached by walking through an enclosed chimney then scrambling up a metre. Bouldery start followed by pleasant crack climbing. Rap off.

FA: Nick Brown, 2014

22 Trad 15m
6 Lichenstein

Up slab past two bolts, then up a corner crack. #0.75, #1 and #2 camalots. Tree belay.

FA: Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, Oliver Story, 2014

15 Mixed 15m, 2
7 Caribbean Queen

Up right-trending crack and ramp. Take multiples of #2 and #3 camalots

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 2014

17 Trad 20m
8 Swing the Billy

A slabby arete. Start on the flat area on the eastern side of the 'Caribbean Queen' chimney. Bridge up a move and clip a bolt on the wedged boulder. Climb onto it then lean across and clip the second bolt. Up delicately, right to the arete and up. Rap off.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 2014

20 Sport 10m, 5
9 Swing the Billy left hand variant

As for 'Swing the Billy' but finish up the sloping ramp.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Dave McGregor, 2014

20 Sport 10m, 5
10 Mega Tokyo

P1 15m (18). Start in the cave below and 10m back from the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Boulder up onto the wall. At the top crawl through a hole and scramble up onto boulders to bolt belay.

P2 20m (24). Up the arete past 7 bolts to chains. Rap off.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story (P1), 2014

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius (P2), 2014

24 Sport 30m 2, 9

1.10.2. Innocence 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.896186, -35.506166

Approach:©

From the top of Carribean Queen in the Picnic sector, follow sporadic cairns and tape west towards the summit, winding between the boulders on the ridgetop. Initially follow the contour for 30m then go up a wide rocky gully. Veer right at the top of this then double back through a chimney passage (this is Rumble Fish). This emerges into a camping overhang (not as waterproof as you'd hope). Follow the contour through the trees for another 50m or so.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rumble Fish

Climbs the soaring chimney on the approach to Innocence.

FA: B. Aikman, D. McGregor, 2014

16 Trad 20m
2 Fargo

The squeeze chimney between 'Rumble Fish' and 'Agent Orange Victim'.

FA: B. Aikman, D, McGregor, 2014

16 Trad 10m
3 * Agent Orange Victim

Layback and slab up the corner.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 2014

11 Trad 12m
4 Yayco

Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang.

FA: Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 2014

3 Trad 6m
5 * Why Does It Always Rain On Me

The short but interesting finger and hand crack on the left end of the main wall.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 2014

17 Trad 8m
6 72 Virgins

The good looking double crack/flake right of "why does it always rain on me". Unfortunately a large flake on the route is loose (all the large blocks on the ground were trundled by hand). Deemed "not worth dying for" by the discoverers, it received a first ascent by a team of keen young suicide bombers. Be careful with the last big flake in the upper crack until the Billy Billy OH&S dept. gets around to trundling it.

FA: Ben Young, Chris Elliot, 2014

18 Trad 15m
7 Billy Bonkers

The short, easy (relatively) off-width corner right of '72 Virgins'. Up corner, traverse right (#4 or #5 Camalot with long sling) into 'End of Innocence' and finish up this.

FA: Dave McGregor, Geoff Fraser, 2014

17 Trad 15m
8 End of Innocence

Diagonal groove with two bolts right of 'Billy Bonkers'. A #3 Camalot in the groove protects the bouldery start (or stick clip first bolt). Up grove past 2 bolts to ledge, up short corner then pull left to finish on broad ledge as for '72 Virgins'. Gear after the bolts: Camalots from #0.5 to #3 and a couple of extender slings .

FA: Dave McGregor, David Anderson-Smith, Geoff Fraser, 2014

16 Mixed 15m, 2

The following routes are located in a gully further right. The best way to reach them is to follow the track from 'Why Does It Always Rain On Me' downhill for 20m, left along the contour for 20m, then back up the gully. Alternatively, bush-bash past boulders right of '72 Virgins'

9 * Oops I Did It Again!

Nice hand and fist crack with an interesting finish.

FA: Nick Brown, Jamie Valdivia and Enzo Giuarino, 2014

17 Trad 8m
10 *** Christmas in July

A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot.

FA: Oliver Story, Carl Godfrey, 2014

22 Mixed 15m, 3

1.10.3. Sarah's Cracks 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 148.894441, -35.505650

Approach:©

From the Innocence sector follow an orange-taped track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. Keep skirting left under the main outcrop. At the 150m mark the track splits; the upper gully goes to the western end of the outcrop and the Sector of a Lonely Heart. Keep trending diagonally downhill to reach Sarah's Cracks.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Taste Tester

The arete high up and left of 'Nice Day for a White Wedding' makes a nice top-rope problem.

FA: Oliver Story, 2014

20 Top rope 15m
2 *** Nice Day for a White Wedding

Perfect hand crack.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, 2014

17 Trad 15m
3 *** Piano Man

Hand and finger crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Sarah Truscott, 2014

19 Trad 12m

1.10.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.895174, -35.506499

Description:©

The first area "found" by climbers, with some excellent cracks. Stays in the shade through winter, when it takes a few days to dry out after rain.

Approach:©

Initially as for Sarah's Cracks.From the Innocence sector follow a track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. At the 150m mark the track splits; the lower track goes to Sarah's Cracks. Take the upper wide gully to the western end of the outcrop. Keep skirting round the boulders to reach Sector of a Lonely Heart.

Descent Notes:©

Rap anchor above the arête.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Hearts and Bones

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Justin Ryan, 2014

23 Trad 18m
2 ** Achy Breaky Heart

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête.

FA: Jaime Valdivia, 2014

22 Trad 15m
3 ** Heartbreak Hotel

Fingers. Double finger-sized cams and a few wires.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius, Daniel Gordon, 2014

21 Trad 18m
4 ** Woodcutters

The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and something for the belay.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Jamie Valdivia, Oliver Story, 2014

17 Trad 8m

1.10.5. Clubs 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.895557, -35.504938

Approach:©

From the Innocence sector follow an orange-taped track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. After 100m the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. Directly below this is the head of a gully; take the pink-taped track that goes downhill and right, winding through boulders. (The orange-taped track continues left under the main outcrop to Sarah's Cracks and Sector of a Lonely Heart). After 20m or so the track divides, marked by triple bands of pink tape. For Clubs sector go right and downhill for 20m, skirt below a boulder then back uphill for 10m. The top of the climbs are now directly downhill through a gap in boulders. To get to the bottom of the climbs follow a gully on the east side (top marked with a cairn).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Puffing Billy

The imposing overhanging corner crack. Bridge up the right hand wall for a few moves on positive face holds, then into the overhanging hand crack. The angle eases off a little for the offwidth / layback finish. Camalots to #5, with doubles of #1-#3. A #6 camalot can be pre-placed with a stick to protect the start.

FA: Oliver Story, Cam Zachreson, Chris Ling, 2014

21 Trad 18m
2 Project

The arête right of Puffing Billy. Take a few 60cm slings to hang off the top-belay bolts if you want to lower back to the ground - you can retrieve them on the walk out.

Sport Project 20m, 9

1.10.6. Sling Blade 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.894114, -35.504409

Approach:©

From the Innocence sector follow an orange-taped track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. After 100m the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. Directly below this is the head of a gully; take the pink-taped track that goes downhill and right, winding through boulders. (The orange-taped track continues left under the main outcrop to Sarah's Cracks and Sector of a Lonely Heart). After 20m or so the track divides, marked by triple bands of pink tape. For Sling Blade sector go left and downhill, cutting back across the gully. Keep following the pink tape downhill, with boulders to your left and the gully to your right. Eventually you'll pass under an overhang, and arrive at Sling Blade 20m beyond.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sling Blade

A nice fingery flake-crack. Take a bunch of small cams in the yellow alien to purple camalot range. Tree belay well back.

FA: Chris Ling, Cam Zachreson, 2014

19 Trad 12m
2 *** Big-mouthed Bass Crack

An amazingly clean and sustained hand crack. Take a green cam or two for the start, then plenty of reds.

FA: Cam Zachreson, Oliver Story, Chris Ling, 2014

17 Trad 10m

1.10.7. Hipster Billy 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.892236, -35.507067

Description:©

"This is what Billy Billy used to be like back in May 2014, before the crowds arrived" - One Day Hero, 10th June 2014 [Editors note: 4 people were seen climbing at the main crag that day]

Approach:©

From Sarah's Cracks walk right/west, contouring across a wide gully, to an outcrop on the sunny side of a small knoll.

Descent Notes:©

Walk off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ground Hog Day

Curving finger to hand crack.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, 2014

17 Trad 15m
2 *** The Life Aquatic

The hand-crack to off-width inside the chimney. Take a #5 and a #6 camalot

FA: Damian Jovanovic, Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott, 2014

15 Trad 18m
3 ** Brushed But Not Forgotten

Hand crack up a corner. Take double #2 and #3 camalot, and optional #4 for the top.

FA: Oliver Story, Sarah Truscott, Damian Jovanovic, 2014

17 Trad 15m
4 * Go Your Own Way

Right-leaning crack / ramp

FA: Sarah Truscott, Oliver Story, 2014

15 Trad 15m

1.10.8. Hill Billy 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.897198, -35.512039

Description:

Soooo... you don't look like you're from around here... but you sure got a purdy mouth.

Approach:

Halfway between the obvious rock slab and the creek, turn left and follow the pink flagging to Hill Billy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart

Fantastic hand crack in a chimney. Hi Oli

FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske, Damian Jovanovic, 2014

13 Trad 10m
2 Contrived in July

The [bullsh!t] eliminate start to The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart. Touch the back wall and you're disqualified. Hi Dave

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Top rope 10m
3 Paging Bjorn

Numerous offwidth adventures available at this sector

Trad Project
4 Open Project 3

Fist crack in the same chimney as NCKT

Trad Project 10m
5 * The Mysterious Case of the Sandstone Princess and the Teeny Tiny Tampon

Miniature version of Hipster Billy's 'The Life Aquatic'. Squeeze chimney protected by hand crack, take #2 - #5 camalot and a finger sized one for the top out.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske, Damian Jovanovic, 2014

15 Trad 10m
6 Open Project 1

Overhanging desperately thin finger crack. Paging Oli, Dave, Nick, and Andrew

Trad Project 10m
7 Open Project 2

Less overhanging but thinner crack, will be extra desperate.

Trad Project 6m

1.11. White Horse Rocks 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.943800, -35.519761

Unique Features And Strengths:©

A pleasant, if isolated little crag situated at the head of 'Punchbowl Creek' and overlooking Booroomba Homestead.

Description:©

Climbs are described from left to right. There is a rap anchor at the top of the main wall, above 'Black Satin Lingerie'.

Approach:©

Drive out on the Corin Road past the Gibraltar Peak turnoff and turn left onto the second track after crossing Gibraltar Creek. Follow the track up to a T-junction and turn right, passing a large clearing. Turn left at the next intersection, then turn left again; follow this track, next to a log-filled creek on the right for some way then take two sharp right turns and climb out of the gully. Park at the T-intersection on the edge of the pine plantation. A low saddle can be seen between two peaks to the southeast. White Horse Rocks are just out of sight on the northeast side of the left-hand peak. Cross the fence, then the creek and bushbash to the top of the left-hand hill. A very crude track has been bulldozed down the hill from the crag, but it does not reach the pine forest; follow it up after you stumble across it. The walk to the rocks, just over the lip, should take about fifteen minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The first two climbs are on an isolated buttress 200 metres down the ridge from the main crag.

1 Nothing Too Serious

The obvious hand-sized layback crack.

FA: Mark Sands, David Jenkins, 1987

18 Trad 15m
2 Better Luck Next Time

Up the corner two metres right of 'Nothing Too Serious' - use the left wall, then the arete.

FA: David Jenkins, Mark Sands, 1987

17 Trad 15m
3 Knuckles

The surprisingly tricky crack at the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a spacious ledge then up the short corner crack. Move right to finish below the hanging blocks.

FA: Dick Curtis, Mike Todd, Tony Wood, John Spahr, 1975

15 Trad 15m
4 False Start

The groove four metres down from 'Knuckles'. Bouldery start is the crux.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1983

22 Trad 12m
5 Friendly Persuasion

Start below a grassy recess left of 'Gibber Tari', and follow the crack and chimney before traversing right to finish.

FA: Dick Curtis, John Spahr, 1975

12 Trad 22m
6 Gibber Tari

Off-width chimney with a bulge at two-thirds height, down and left from 'Transience'.

FA: Joe Friend, John Lamb, 1979

17 Trad 18m
7 Transience

Start at the corner around 10m from 'Short Shrift'. Climb up for two metres, then right around the arete and up the short crack and dirty groove.

FA: Adam Blizzard, John Churchill, 1986

17 Trad 20m
8 Short Shrift

V-shaped chimney. Exit left.

FA: Mike Todd, Tony Wood, 1975

10 Trad 10m
9 Dragon

Off-width crack just left of 'Blue Wind'.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ian "Sam" Baker, John Stone, 1978

18 Trad 25m
10 ** Blue Wind

Steep and sustained, the obvious line on the main wall. Shares a start with 'Blue Velvet'.

FA: Damien Jones, Paul Daniel, 1978

20 Trad 23m
11 * Blue Velvet

A technical but well-protected traverse. Start as for 'Blue Wind' for 5 metres, then head right past four bolts. Traverse right from the ledge to belay as for 'Short Soup'.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

24 Sport 20m, 4
12 ** Black Satin Lingerie

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts.

FA: Simon Carter, 1991

26 Sport 20m, 6
13 Short Soup

Crack left of 'Cratercritter'. Originally done in two pitches.

FA: Dick Curtis, Peter Mills, 1975

18 Trad 15m
14 Cratercritter

Offwidth crack. Requires big pro - stacked hexes (at the time). The impressive flake-formed off-width left of 'Stormbringer'.

FA: John Stone, 1978

17 Trad 20m
15 Stormbringer

Two metres left of 'Skewer'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1986

20 Trad 10m
16 Skewer

Short and sharp - finish up a short slab section. The wall with two bolts a couple of metres left of 'Johnny Walker'.

FA: Andrew Kean, Mike Peck, 1986

19 Mixed 12m, 2
17 Johnny Walker

Wide crack at the right hand side of the crag.

FA: Tony Wood, Mike Todd, 1975

10 Trad 12m

1.12. The Bank 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.911226, -35.527251

Unique Features And Strengths:©

A pleasant bushland setting makes The Bank a good destination for a short day's outing.

Description:©

A small collection of short, fun routes on the boulder strewn ridge above the walking track to 'Square Rock'.

Approach:©

The Bank is on the ridgetop immediately south of Smokers Gap. Park at the Smokers Gap car park (one kilometre beyond the Corin Forest slide), cross the road and head up the 'Square Rock' walking trail. This initially zig-zags upwards through small boulders before trending steadily up and rightwards. Where the track veers right, just before the top of the ridge, a large boulder with an impressive left curving crack becomes visible 50 metres or so above and left. Walking time from the car park is about 15 minutes.

The boulders continue northwards along the ridge for about 300 metres. At the end of the ridge is a large group of boulders with a fireplace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Lure

The leftwards leaning crack seen from the path, reminiscent of 'Easy Wind' ('Legoland'), but harder. Flared jams and strenuous to protect. Now slightly overgrown.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, 1995

24 Trad 12m
2 Cintride

The rounded arete and face just right of 'The Lure' with four bolts. Sharp on the tips.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1995

23 Sport 10m, 4
3 * Captain Crystal

The slabby nose on the next boulder right of 'Cintride'. Up past two bolts then traverse delicately rightwards past two more bolts. Some thin moves.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

24 Sport 12m, 4
4 Walk the Dog

The chimney right of 'The Lure' with some protection in a leftwards crack. Ugh.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

12 Trad 10m
5 Captain Crystal's Right Trouser Leg

The short open corner 5 metres right of 'Captain Crystal' with one bolt. Finish up the slab on the right.

FA: Paul Daniel, Mick O'Halloran, 1995

20 Mixed 9m, 1
6 Return of the Leaping Lounge Lizards

On the boulder directly below 'The Lure' is a pleasant slabby groove with a harder start. A lovely line and fun climbing.

FA: Liz Milbourne, Catherine Eadie, 1995

14 Trad 8m
7 Low Interest

On a wavy slab 30 metres left of 'The Lure'. Up the middle; a delightful slab with an enhanced wire placement.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1995

14 Trad 8m
8 Pixie Power

The far side of a boulder 30 metres to the left of, and just downhill from 'Low Interest', sports a right facing, dainty little corner crack offering fingerlocking and stemming moves.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

18 Trad 8m

Above and left of 'Low Interest', near the top of this outcrop, is a short slab on the northern side with the following two climbs.

9 Pygmy Chicken

The righthand line with two bolts. Pleasant face climbing.

FA: Catherine Eadie, Paul Daniel, 1995

16 Mixed 10m, 2
10 Rubbery Tuk-awah!

Starts at a block on the left wall. Pull right onto the arete and then up, passing one bolt. The direct finish up the arete would be recommended if it had another bolt.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

17 Mixed 8m, 1
11 Pixies and Dickywackers

Behind and right from 'Pygmy Chicken' and 'Rubbery Tuk-awah' is another tier of boulders. This route is on the left wall of a chimney in the centre of the tier.

A bouldery start to the first bolt then good moves past one more to the top.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

20 Mixed 10m, 2

From 'The Lure' outcrop, scattered boulders lead gently up the ridge for about 100 metres to the 'Spider's Web' - "a spiritual place" [Paul Daniel]. This is a large flat arena ringed with boulders and covered in a tangle of stringybark trunks.

12 Throw It Out With the Cheese

The bolted, slabby arete on the right hand side of a boulder at the northern end of the 'Spider's Web'.

FA: Paul Daniel, Catherine Eadie, 1995

16 Trad 6m
13 Unknown

The dyke just to the left of 'Throw it Out With the Cheese'. Was still a project in 1996 - has anyone claimed it yet?

Sport Project 2
14 Photo Finish

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1996

23 Trad 10m

From the 'Spider's Web' area continue about 50 metres north along the ridge and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder to arrive at a final collection of boulders.

15 Sausage Crack

Continue about 50 metres further northwards along the ridge from the 'Spider's Web' and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder.

The nice finger crack on the northern side of the outcrop on the left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Catherine Eadie, 1995

19 Trad 8m
16 Zanadu

Sic. The beautiful overhanging seam on the downhill side of the westernmost boulders of the final group, opposite 'Sausage Crack'.

FA: John Churchill, 1997

M3 Aid 10m

1.13. Square Rock 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 148.887318, -35.536691

Description:©

In a great position and some good climbs, but a very long walk. Continue along the Square Rock walking trail beyond The Bank, staggering past assorted tourists. The walk in takes about an hour (yes you can slog straight up from Corin Road, but this isn't recommended either). Eventually you will arrive at Square Rock, thoughtfully provided with access stairs. To the right of the stairs is a large boulder and on the west face is are the following climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Changing the Guard

Good overhanging face on ironstone jugs with three bolts. Throw the rope off the boulder and have your second tie it off to a tree in order to escape.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Mike Peck, 1995

24 Sport 10m, 3
2 Ostrich Mentality

The short crack to the left with an awkward, undercut start about ten metres right.

FA: Phil Junne, Julie Jefferis, 1995

18 Trad 8m
3 Cowboys Are My Weakness

Starting off the platform on north facing wall. A good thin face past three bolts to an overhanging finish, sharp on the tips.

FA: Julie Jefferis, 1995

22 Sport 12m, 3
4 * Smokin!

Open chimney to the left of the main buttress.

FA: Nicholas Reese (solo), 2008

10 Trad 6m
5 Unknown off-width

Below and further left of Ostrich Mentality.

FA: Mike Law-Smith

Trad

1.14. Tidbinbilla 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 148.937689, -35.444195

Description:

This area comprises the small granite outcrops within the Tidbinbilla valley and upper margins. The valley is to the north and west of and below Gibralter Peak and includes routes and boulder problems from near Tidbinbilla Deep Space Tracking Station along the Tidbinbilla Road to somewhere abreast of Gibralter Peak.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pure Poison

Along the Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve road are many small and some larger granite boulders. This climb is on the obvious "coffe bean" boulder 400m behind the reserve vistors centre. It is the wide crack clearly visible on the main face.

FA: Mike Peck, John Carlson, 1979

19 Trad 10m
2 Abattoir

Another fine jam crack about three metres right of Pure Poison.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1979

16 Trad 7m
3 * Unnatural Acts

To get to this and the following lines, follow the road into the reserve and take the first turn right to a picnic area. Boulders can be seen from the carpark.

The main line under the roof. Climb the slab past a bolt to the roof, undercling left and up a crack to finish.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck, 1982

19 Mixed 15m, 1
4 Milk Teeth

The crack about 10 metres right of Unnatural Acts starting (crux) next to a tree. Up the crack and straight on up the fang above.

FA: Dominic Monypenny, Ken Luck, John Churchill, 1987

17 Trad 10m
5 Quartz

There is a boulder in the scrub 30 metres directly downhill from the main cluster of boulders on Turkey Hill. At the righthand end on the river side is a curving hand crack.

The cracks further left have been soloed.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Mike Peck, Paul Daniel, 1991

21 Trad 10m
6 Unknown finger crack

About 500 metres past the Visitor's Centre, a finger crack on the left has been climbed.

FA: John Smart, Mike Law-Smith

22 Trad

1.15. Watt's Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Aid and Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:©

"It does have one good route"

Description:©

A porphyry/rhyodacite crag in Pierce's Creek - if you can find it.

Approach:©

Turn right at the corrugated iron shed on the way into Pierce's Creek, and follow the winding road to the other side of The Sugarloaf. Turn left, ford Pierce's Creek past a picnic area on your right and head uphill for 150 metres. Turn right then veer left and park at the bottom near the creek. Bushbash or wade downstream for about 5 minutes until you see (at the base of the waterfall) one of the less noteworthy porphyry/rhyodacite crags in the ACT, whereupon you go home (it does have one good route).

History:©

Development in the area was mainly undertaken in the mid-80's.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Never Get Famous

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

  1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

  2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

FA: Matt Madin, Bill Begg

18 Trad 50m
2 Too Loose Lautrec Finish

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave MacGregor, 1985

22 M0 Aid 20m
3 Discount for Heroes

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

  1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

  2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

FA: Dave McGregor, Matt Madin, 1985

23 M1 Aid 35m
4 Hanging Around Here

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

  1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

  2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt.), 1985

21 Trad 45m
5 Six Blade Knife

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

FA: Ben Jones, David Lyons, 1989

22 M1 Aid 25m

1.16. Phantom Buttress 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 148.999529, -35.529815

Description:©

This is the fairly extensive outcrop seen from Canberra (but not Booroomba), on the hillside north of 'Booroomba Rocks', on the opposite side of Blue Gum Creek. The access is epic, so the area is very rarely visited. Turn right at Tharwa and then left at the fork to get to the private Booroomba Homestead - ask permission before proceeding. Note that permission is not always given.

Approach:©

Walk up Blue Gum Creek along a fire trail until almost directly below the cliffs, then bushbash uphill for an hour or so... (the alternative access, via Mt Tennent and the Bushfold Flats is even worse!)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ghost Who Walks

Recommended, if you've got this far. Start 6 metres left of L.W.F, below two parallel cracks. Climb up to, then up these to the top.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

15 Trad 40m
2 Lest We Forget

Horrible, vegetated, dirty and usually wet - a sandbag at the grade. The obvious corner on the steep wall at the left end of the cliff.

  1. 15 metres - Up the corner to belay in the cave.

  2. 30 metres - Continue up until it is possible to escape left.

  3. 10 metres - Traverse left to slabs.

FA: Dave Shirra, Andrew Bowman, 1971

11 Trad 55m
3 XMO

The short steep crack above the cave on 'Lest We Forget'. Two rests due to incompetence.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

19 M0 Aid 15m
4 High Spirits

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

  1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

  2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Collins (alt.), Adam Blizzard, 1989

18 Trad 60m
5 Flying Phantom

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

FA: Mike Peck, Jim Truscott, 1989

16 Trad 40m
6 Blue Gum

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.

FA: Adam Blizzard (solo)

16 Trad 60m
7 Only The Lonely

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

  1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

  2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall, Damien Jones (alt.), 1975

18 Trad 80m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Fashion Fairytale Top rope 9m 1.6.1. Scooby
Yayco Trad 6m 1.10.2. Innocence
6 The First Echidna Trad 10m 1.2.15. Non-Descript Boulder
7 Scooby Top rope 7m 1.6.1. Scooby
Shaggy Top rope 7m 1.6.1. Scooby
8 The Groove Trad 20m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Jelly Bean Sport 7m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
9 A Garden Lost Sport 7m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
10 Lengthways Chinaman Trad 15m 1.2.1. Trackside
The Lecher Trad 20m 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Spaghetti O's Trad 10m 1.7. Bandito Wall
Johnny Walker Trad 12m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Short Shrift Trad 10m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
* Smokin! Trad 6m 1.13. Square Rock
11 Legless Lizard Sport 10m 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
* Agent Orange Victim Trad 12m 1.10.2. Innocence
Lest We Forget Trad 55m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
12 Blue Stumps Trad 10m 1.2.1. Trackside
Cheesecake Trad 15m 1.2.3. Frenchies
Get Your Motors Running Mixed 20m, 2 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
** For a Fist in the Eye Trad 12m 1.8. The Hideout
Friendly Persuasion Trad 22m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Walk the Dog Trad 10m 1.12. The Bank
13 Crack of Ionic Finger Strength Trad 10m 1.2.1. Trackside
Blagdon P2 Trad 15m 1.2.4. Juveniles area
Tiptoe Trad 25m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
The Squeeze Trad 50m 1.2.14. Monkey Level
No Stone Unturned Trad 10m 1.3. Pox Rox
Non-Venomous Sport 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
* The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart Trad 10m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
V0- Mellifluous Boulder 2m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
14 Dubious Tactics Trad 15m 1.2.1. Trackside
JAM (Just Another Megaroute) Trad 15m 1.2.4. Juveniles area
My Name is Luka Sport 15m, 1 1.2.11. Skippy's Slab area
The Seventh Hedgehog Trad 20m 1.2.15. Non-Descript Boulder
Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians Trad 10m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Snow Storm Trad 10m 1.3. Pox Rox
Scaled Sport 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
Wires In The Hand Sport 7m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Cinders Trad 10m 1.9. Gibraltar Falls
Low Interest Trad 8m 1.12. The Bank
Return of the Leaping Lounge Lizards Trad 8m 1.12. The Bank
15 Fun Climb Mixed 20m, 3 1.2.4. Juveniles area
* Juveniles and Geriatrics Mixed 30m 2, 5 1.2.4. Juveniles area
Blagdon Trad 80m 3 1.2.6. No Glove
No Easy Street Trad 30m 1.2.6. No Glove
Piglets in Paradise Trad 24m 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Piltdown Man Trad 15m 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Skippy's Slab Mixed 12m, 1 1.2.11. Skippy's Slab area
Easy Rider Sport 31m 3, 5 1.2.12. Egg Cave
No Reservations Trad 5m 1.3. Pox Rox
Snow Flake Trad 12m 1.3. Pox Rox
** Sentry Duty Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Small Things Amuse Trad 6m 1.6. Snake Rock
* Hole in the Forehead Trad 10m 1.8. The Hideout
Angel Wings Trad 15m 1.9. Gibraltar Falls
Lichenstein Mixed 15m, 2 1.10.1. Picnic
* Go Your Own Way Trad 15m 1.10.7. Hipster Billy
*** The Life Aquatic Trad 18m 1.10.7. Hipster Billy
* The Mysterious Case of the Sandstone Princess and the Teeny Tiny Tampon Trad 10m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Knuckles Trad 15m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
* Ghost Who Walks Trad 40m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
V0 Number 24 Boulder 1.1.1. Cantaloupe Hill
Number 5 Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Warmup Slab
Persian Rug Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Warmup Slab
Project 1 Boulder 5m 1.1.1.7.1. Second Heart
Number 2 Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
Chime Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
More Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
#7 RH variant Boulder 4m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
Kerl Boulder 5m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
Middle Finger Boulder 6m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
11. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Descent Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Hard Descent Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
16 Kate's Bush Trad 10m 1.2.1. Trackside
Jihad Chimney Trad 14m 1.2.3. Frenchies
Rite of Passage Trad 30m 1.2.6. No Glove
* Flip, Flop, Fly Sport 5m, 2 1.2.8. Knife Edge Boulder
** Nail Biter Trad 10m 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
White Rabbit Sport 10m, 2 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Ape Trad 40m 2 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Captain America Trad 12m 1.2.15. Non-Descript Boulder
Low Hydrogen Trad 13m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Much Man Trad 12m 1.3. Pox Rox
Umbalah Crack Trad 8m 1.3. Pox Rox
T.V. Glotzer Trad 6m 1.4. The Jism
White Cloud Trad 10m 1.4. The Jism
* Blood on His Lips Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Flying Arkwright Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Offwidth left of Sentry Duty Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Paternity Ward Trad 7m 1.5. The Fortress
Snakes and Ladders Trad 12m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Slithering Sideways Sport 12m 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
Knuckle Fight Trad 12m 1.8. The Hideout
End of Innocence Mixed 15m, 2 1.10.2. Innocence
Fargo Trad 10m 1.10.2. Innocence
Rumble Fish Trad 20m 1.10.2. Innocence
Pygmy Chicken Mixed 10m, 2 1.12. The Bank
Throw It Out With the Cheese Trad 6m 1.12. The Bank
Abattoir Trad 7m 1.14. Tidbinbilla
Blue Gum Trad 60m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
Flying Phantom Trad 40m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
17 * Heckmondwike Twist Trad 20m 1.2.3. Frenchies
* Labor Pains Sport 15m, 3 1.2.4. Juveniles area
** Forever Present Sport 30m, 7 1.2.6. No Glove
Dear Prudence Trad 25m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Holy Guacamole Sport 5m, 2 1.2.8. Knife Edge Boulder
* Goony Waltz Sport 10m, 2 1.2.11. Skippy's Slab area
* Who's Better, Who's Best Sport 12m, 3 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Faint Hearted Trad 14m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Locomotion Trad 8m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Mario and the Blue Angels Trad 15m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
One for the Road Trad 8m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Postern Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Energy Efficiency Sport 7m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Snakes and Ladders direct finish Mixed 17m, 2 1.6.3. Lower Tier
* Blood for a Silver Dollar Mixed 12m, 2 1.7. Bandito Wall
Tiny Teds Trad 6m 1.9. Gibraltar Falls
Caribbean Queen Trad 20m 1.10.1. Picnic
Billy Bonkers Trad 15m 1.10.2. Innocence
* Oops I Did It Again! Trad 8m 1.10.2. Innocence
* Why Does It Always Rain On Me Trad 8m 1.10.2. Innocence
*** Nice Day for a White Wedding Trad 15m 1.10.3. Sarah's Cracks
** Woodcutters Trad 8m 1.10.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
*** Big-mouthed Bass Crack Trad 10m 1.10.6. Sling Blade
** Brushed But Not Forgotten Trad 15m 1.10.7. Hipster Billy
*** Ground Hog Day Trad 15m 1.10.7. Hipster Billy
Better Luck Next Time Trad 15m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Cratercritter Trad 20m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Gibber Tari Trad 18m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Transience Trad 20m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Rubbery Tuk-awah! Mixed 8m, 1 1.12. The Bank
Milk Teeth Trad 10m 1.14. Tidbinbilla
18 Blue Lights Trad 15m 1.2.1. Trackside
** No Glove No Love Mixed 25m, 3 1.2.6. No Glove
On the Beach Direct Start Sport 30m, 1 1.2.6. No Glove
* Hey Jude Trad 25m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
** Scarborough Fair Trad 35m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Midsummer Madness Mixed 21m, 1 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Milwaukee Pig Iron Sport 10m, 3 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Return of the Marzipan Kid Trad 15m 1.2.13. Marzipan
Chicken Run Trad 35m 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Fish in a Barrel Trad 13m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Small Pox Trad 12m 1.3. Pox Rox
Night Fall Mixed 8m, 2 1.5. The Fortress
Twin Set Trad 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
Little Cherie Sport 10m, 4 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Puff Adder Sport 7m, 4 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Slithering Direct Sport 12m 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
One Eyed Trousersnake Trad 10m 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Django the Bastard Trad 12m 1.7. Bandito Wall
* Vengeance is a Dish Best Served Cold Sport 14m, 5 1.8. The Hideout
72 Virgins Trad 15m 1.10.2. Innocence
Dragon Trad 25m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Nothing Too Serious Trad 15m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Short Soup Trad 15m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Pixie Power Trad 8m 1.12. The Bank
Ostrich Mentality Trad 8m 1.13. Square Rock
Never Get Famous Trad 50m 1.15. Watt's Wall
High Spirits Trad 60m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
Only The Lonely Trad 80m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
19 Plasticine People Sport 7m 1.2.1. Trackside
Rock and Birds Trad 12m 1.2.2. Shady side
Haircare Make-up Drugs Sport 25m, 2 1.2.6. No Glove
* Oddball Sport 25m, 2 1.2.6. No Glove
* On the Beach Sport 30m, 2 1.2.6. No Glove
Revolution Mixed 8m, 2 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
* Consumer Item Sport 10m, 3 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
Swinging Seat Trad 30m 2 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Rangehon Trad 10m 1.4. The Jism
No Fat Chicks Mixed 8m, 3 1.5. The Fortress
** Yohan Sport 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
Conflict Therapy (easy start) Sport 10m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
* Black Adder Sport 10m, 4 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Snakeskin Shuffle Sport 12m, 4 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Death Rides Alone Sport 15m, 6 1.7. Bandito Wall
Barbary Ape Trad 10m 1.9. Gibraltar Falls
* Not My Nirvana Trad 10m 1.10.1. Picnic
*** Piano Man Trad 12m 1.10.3. Sarah's Cracks
** Sling Blade Trad 12m 1.10.6. Sling Blade
Skewer Mixed 12m, 2 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Sausage Crack Trad 8m 1.12. The Bank
Pure Poison Trad 10m 1.14. Tidbinbilla
* Unnatural Acts Mixed 15m, 1 1.14. Tidbinbilla
19 M0 XMO Aid 15m 1.16. Phantom Buttress
V0 to V1 Prydain Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Warmup Slab
V1 Another Boulder 2m 1.1.1.5. Slab Rock
Peter Pan Boulder 3m 1.1.1.5. Slab Rock
Blue Jeans Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
* Nice Guys Finish Last Boulder 5m 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
Number 1 Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
Divagation Boulder 3m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
Thumb Mantle Boulder 2m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
1. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
12. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
17. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
2. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.2. Ike Boulder
20 * Another Roadside Attraction Trad 15m 1.2.1. Trackside
Legless Trad 15m 1.2.1. Trackside
Poultry in Motion Mixed 10m, 3 1.2.1. Trackside
Barry the Radish Trad 20m 1.2.2. Shady side
Rimmon Crack Trad 10m 1.2.2. Shady side
* Porcupine Pie Sport 10m, 2 1.2.3. Frenchies
Changes Trad 20m 1.2.6. No Glove
** When Only The Best Will Do Sport 32m, 4 1.2.6. No Glove
*** Scarborough Fair (Roof Variant) Trad 35m 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Simply Salsa Mixed 35m, 4 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
** Fouled Up Turkey Sport 15m, 3 1.2.8. Knife Edge Boulder
Bart's Mate, Joker Sport 15m, 4 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
* Love Vigilante Sport 12m, 4 1.2.11. Skippy's Slab area
Gorgeous Turn Me On Trad 10m 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Ape Escape Mixed 20m, 4 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Free Tibet Mixed 25m, 3 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Anacondan Sport 12m, 4 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Snake-in-the-Grass Mixed 15m, 3 1.6.5. The Buttresss
* Offspring Trad 10m 1.9. Gibraltar Falls
Swing the Billy Sport 10m, 5 1.10.1. Picnic
Swing the Billy left hand variant Sport 10m, 5 1.10.1. Picnic
Taste Tester Top rope 15m 1.10.3. Sarah's Cracks
** Blue Wind Trad 23m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Stormbringer Trad 10m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Captain Crystal's Right Trouser Leg Mixed 9m, 1 1.12. The Bank
Pixies and Dickywackers Mixed 10m, 2 1.12. The Bank
20 M2 Aid Route Aid 25m 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
V2 Slab proj Boulder Project 5m 1.1.1.1. First Stopoff
* Tally Ho Boulder 2m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
Bergs Boulder 1.1.1.6. Number 15 boulder
Mantle Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
More moss Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
Nearly Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
Dren Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
Soot Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
Tauris Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
Skin end Boulder 4m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
10. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
13. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
8. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
* 9. Boulder 6m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
1. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.2. Ike Boulder
Baby Stop It Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Fridge Lift Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Fridge Press Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
21 * Armless Trad 20m 1.2.1. Trackside
* Arse Bandit Sport 20m, 2 1.2.2. Shady side
** Overnight Sensation Trad 18m 1.2.2. Shady side
Tri-State Sport 15m, 2 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Strong Persuader Sport 10m, 3 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
Rock Spiders Sport 20m 2, 2 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
* Sound as a Trout Mixed 13m, 3 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Flying Leathernecks Mixed 15m, 2 1.2.13. Marzipan
* Monkey Business Mixed 25m, 2 1.2.14. Monkey Level
Le Tour Trad 15m 1.3. Pox Rox
Fake Crack Sport 8m, 3 1.5. The Fortress
Asafa Sport 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
Arrow of Time Sport 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
** Adios Sabata Sport 15m, 4 1.8. The Hideout
** Heartbreak Hotel Trad 18m 1.10.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
*** Puffing Billy Trad 18m 1.10.5. Clubs
Quartz Trad 10m 1.14. Tidbinbilla
Hanging Around Here Trad 45m 1.15. Watt's Wall
22 Atom Ant Trad 13m 1.2.5. Black wall
* McCoys Arete Sport 10m, 4 1.2.5. Black wall
Going Troppo Sport 30m, 4 1.2.6. No Glove
Boomtown Refugee Mixed 10m, 1 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
* Happy Piggyland Mixed 35m, 1 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
* Parole Mixed 25m, 2 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
* V1 Special Sport 15m, 3 1.2.8. Knife Edge Boulder
At the Stillpoint of Destruction Trad 12m 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
** Roxley R.I.P. Sport 15m, 6 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
* My Generation Sport 20m, 6 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Broken Window Trad 15m 1.2.16. Safari Bouders
Anything'll Do Mixed 10m, 2 1.5. The Fortress
Flex Trad 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Usain Sport 7m 1.6.2. Upper Tier
Conflict Therapy (hard start) Sport 10m, 4 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Copperhead Sport 7m 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
** Red Belly Mixed 12m, 2 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Cold in July Trad 15m 1.10.1. Picnic
** Kneel before Zod! Trad 15m 1.10.1. Picnic
*** No Respect Trad 15m 1.10.1. Picnic
*** Christmas in July Mixed 15m, 3 1.10.2. Innocence
** Achy Breaky Heart Trad 15m 1.10.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
False Start Trad 12m 1.11. White Horse Rocks
Cowboys Are My Weakness Sport 12m, 3 1.13. Square Rock
Unknown finger crack Trad 1.14. Tidbinbilla
22 M0 Too Loose Lautrec Finish Aid 20m 1.15. Watt's Wall
22 M1 Six Blade Knife Aid 25m 1.15. Watt's Wall
V2 to V3 Intrusion stand Boulder 3m 1.1.1.4. Prow Rock
V3 Without Words Boulder 2m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
Intrusion Boulder 3m 1.1.1.4. Prow Rock
Ruffian Boulder 5m 1.1.1.4. Prow Rock
Pubs Boulder 3m 1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow
Slow and Low (#16) Boulder 1m 1.1.1.6. Number 15 boulder
Drug Money for the Bunny (#19) Boulder 5m 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
Little Arete (#18) Boulder 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
Number 23 Boulder 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
Vitruvian Boulder 2m 1.1.1.7.2. The Second Prow
* Jayenne Boulder 5m 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
* Dance for daddy Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
Rarze Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
* Stone Cutter Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
Cute Kill Boulder 6m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
Trichiasis Boulder 5m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
* 14. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
15. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
* 7. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Payment Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Shut the Door Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Undercounter Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
Carnage Trad 7m 1.5. The Fortress
* Just a Tease Boulder 5m 1.10.1. Picnic
23 Bad Luck Sir Mixed 12m, 2 1.2.1. Trackside
* Jihad Sport 14m, 3 1.2.3. Frenchies
Cornucopia Mixed 25m, 1 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Dim Parkio Sport 15m, 4 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
Holds Go Begging Sport 15m, 3 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
* Sticky Fingers Trad 30m 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Down By Law Trad 15m 1.2.13. Marzipan
* Future Shock Trad 18m 1.4. The Jism
Scratched Record Sport 10m, 2 1.5. The Fortress
Bergenhardia Sport 5m, 2 1.6.4. The Ampitheatre
** Crawlin' King Snake Mixed 15m, 2 1.6.5. The Buttresss
King Cobra Link-up Trad 12m 1.6.5. The Buttresss
*** Dollars for a Fast Gun Sport 13m, 5 1.7. Bandito Wall
Machine Gun Killers Sport 15m, 7 1.7. Bandito Wall
*** Hearts and Bones Trad 18m 1.10.4. Sector of a Lonely Heart
Cintride Sport 10m, 4 1.12. The Bank
Photo Finish Trad 10m 1.12. The Bank
23 M1 Discount for Heroes Aid 35m 1.15. Watt's Wall
V4 Memories Boulder 5m 1.1.1.1. First Stopoff
Throw Back Boulder 4m 1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow
Szady Slap Boulder 2m 1.1.1.5. Slab Rock
Back in Black (#15) Boulder 1.1.1.6. Number 15 boulder
** Cotten Mouth Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
* Born-again Hooligan Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
Skullduggery Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
Pinky Cling Boulder 6m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
* Call Girls Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
Dialed Boulder 5m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
* Shy moves Boulder 5m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
** 4. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Turn the Sheets Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
24 Defined by the First Contraction Mixed 15m, 1 1.2.3. Frenchies
** Moth Trad 15m 1.2.3. Frenchies
* Aubergine Dream Sport 15m, 6 1.2.5. Black wall
Back on Black Sport 15m 1.2.5. Black wall
Fast Living Mixed 13m, 3 1.2.5. Black wall
Trivial Pursuits Mixed 10m, 2 1.2.7. Southern Tablelands
*** Skylark Mixed 28m, 4 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
* Fat and Healthy Sport 13m, 3 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Pecasso Sport 20m, 5 1.2.12. Egg Cave
* Apprentice's Edge Sport 10m, 6 1.5. The Fortress
Chasing Amy Trad 12m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Electra Luxx Sport 10m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
It Was Complicated Sport 10m 1.6.3. Lower Tier
Pythonista Sport 12m, 5 1.6.5. The Buttresss
* For a Few Dollars More Sport 16m, 6 1.7. Bandito Wall
Mega Tokyo Sport 30m 2, 9 1.10.1. Picnic
* Blue Velvet Sport 20m, 4 1.11. White Horse Rocks
* Captain Crystal Sport 12m, 4 1.12. The Bank
* The Lure Trad 12m 1.12. The Bank
* Changing the Guard Sport 10m, 3 1.13. Square Rock
25 ** Antipodean Atrocities Sport 20m, 4 1.2.5. Black wall
* Le Muir Noir Sport 12m, 5 1.2.5. Black wall
* Reptilian Sport 13m, 5 1.6.5. The Buttresss
* Mercenario Sport 14m, 7 1.7. Bandito Wall
V5 ** Dripping on Trips Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
Variant Finish Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
** Spruce Moose - stand Boulder 4m 1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow
*** Check Your Head (#21) Boulder 8m 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
Visceral Boulder 2m 1.1.1.7.2. The Second Prow
Rumspringa stand Boulder 4m 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
** Its daddy you shit head Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
Crete it Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
Price Check Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
Tickler Boulder 4m 1.1.1.11. The Hand
On Hold Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
* 5. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
3. Boulder 3m 1.1.3.2. Ike Boulder
Erico Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
26 ** French Connections Sport 13m, 4 1.2.3. Frenchies
Disco Cobra Sport 12m 1.6.5. The Buttresss
Spitting Viper Sport 14m 1.6.5. The Buttresss
** Black Satin Lingerie Sport 20m, 6 1.11. White Horse Rocks
V6 ** Contempt Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
*** The Joker Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
* Organs in Orbit (#20) Boulder 10m 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
** Swinging Doors (#22) Boulder 6m 1.1.1.7. Heart Block(s)
* QJ WIN Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
*** Rumspringa Boulder 4m 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
*** Leg Spinner Boulder 5m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
** Slopesanity Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
The Tower Boulder 4m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
* 6. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Kelvinator Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
27 M0 Lord Bailey Sport 10m, 4 1.2.9. Nailbiter Spike
V7 Project 2 - open Boulder Project 4m 1.1.1.1. First Stopoff
The Joker - sit Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
** Blood Makes Noise Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
* Fraud Landis Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
*** O'Ren Ishi Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
*** Aspen Armor Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
** Phone Diddle Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
** 2. Boulder 8m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Non-Zero Possibility Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
V7 to V8 *** Vendetta Boulder 3m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
V8 Lanky Yanky Boulder 4m 1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow
** Scream Boulder 1.1.1.8. The Upper Ridge
*** Phone Sex Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
Reverse Charges Boulder 1m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
Chasing Ghosts Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
V9 *** Spruce Moose - sitstart Boulder 4m 1.1.1.4.1. Spruce Moose - the prow
Project 1 - prow traverse Boulder 2m 1.1.1.7.2. The Second Prow
Full Traverse Boulder 2m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
Phone Extension Boulder 5m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
*** FrankenRuby Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Tails of the Drift Boulder 1.1.4. Kelvin Bloc
V10 ** Lipstick Lesbian Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
*** Skills to Pay the Bills Boulder 1.1.1.10. The Ice Blocks
*** Shape Shifters Boulder 5m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
V11 *** Cerebro Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. Glitz Rock
Blood Moon Boulder 6m 1.1.2. George's Boulder
Project 2 - the Cave Boulder 3m 1.1.1.7.2. The Second Prow
Flicking your switch Boulder 1.1.1.9. Sundries
? 16. Boulder 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
7a. Boulder Project 4m 1.1.3.1. Trackside Boulder
Open Project Sport Project 1.2.1. Trackside
Open project Sport Project 14m, 2 1.2.10. Summit Boulders
Project Unknown Project 1.2.12. Egg Cave
Mushroom Outing Aid 5m, 3 1.5. The Fortress
Unknown 1 Sport 10m 1.5. The Fortress
Project - Chris Sport Project 1.7. Bandito Wall
Project Sport Project 20m, 9 1.10.5. Clubs
Contrived in July Top rope 10m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Open Project 1 Trad Project 10m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Open Project 2 Trad Project 6m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Open Project 3 Trad Project 10m 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Paging Bjorn Trad Project 1.10.8. Hill Billy
Unknown Sport Project 2 1.12. The Bank
Unknown off-width Trad 1.13. Square Rock
M3 Zanadu Aid 10m 1.12. The Bank