The Fortress Rock climbing16 routes in crag
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A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here.
A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.©
A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'.
FA: Greg Lane & friends
Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.
FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983
On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch your seconds...
FA: Dave Sargent & Paul Mason, 1987
The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of No Fat Chicks. Sit start V5.
FA: B. Aikman, 2013
A slabby wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder. The bolted climb to the left, starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay has not been claimed, but goes at around 17 or 18. The bolt with the large hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder has also not been reported.
FA: Geoff Filmer & Damian Jovanovic, 1995