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Description

A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here.

A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.

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Approach

Follow the track to a large clearing on the saddle. It is usually possible to drive to this point in a 2WD. The track continues uphill to 'The Jism' and 'Gibraltar Peak'.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
Mushroom Outing Aid 5m, 3

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'.

FA: Greg Lane and friends

2
18 Night Fall Mixed 8m, 2

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

3
22 Anything'll Do Mixed 10m, 2

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch your seconds...

FA: Dave Sargent, Paul Mason, 1987

4
V3 Carnage Trad 7m

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of No Fat Chicks. Sit start V5.

FA: B. Aikman, 2013

5
19 No Fat Chicks Mixed 8m, 3

A slabby wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder. The bolted climb to the left, starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay has not been claimed, but goes at around 17 or 18. The bolt with the large hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder has also not been reported.

FA: Geoff Filmer, Damian Jovanovic, 1995

6
21 Fake Crack Sport 8m, 3

Location: South-south-east of the mushroom; 30m around to the right from No Fat Chicks; in a short gully; right hand end of a mossy wall. Follows the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

7

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details

8
15 * Sentry Duty Trad 10m

The obvious crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis, Damien Jones, 1975

9
24 * Apprentice's Edge Sport 10m, 6

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux; originally three bolts, but six at last count.

FA: Mike Peck, Andrew Kean, 1986

10
16 Flying Arkwright Trad 10m

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

11
17 Postern Trad 10m

On a small group of boulders some 30 metres east from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice climbing up the small right angled corner crack on the far (eastern) side.

FA: Matt Madin, Richard Watts, 1981

The next four climbs are on the isolated boulder 20 metres down and left (north) from the main 'mushroom' boulder.

12
16 Paternity Ward Trad 7m

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

13
23 Scratched Record Sport 10m, 2

The wavey slab just left of Blood on His Lips. A high 1st bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off. Rebolted 2011.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

14
16 * Blood on His Lips Trad 10m

The obvious thin crack, undercut at its base.

FA: R Curtis, J Finnegan, 1975

15
22 Flex Trad 10m

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

16
Unknown 1 Sport 10m

5m right of Flex. Up past bolts.

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