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A small area with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes are very varied in style and it's well worth visiting or stopping off as you trek up to Gibraltar.



Park 1.6km up Corin Road opposite a gated track (GPS coordinates -35.45857,148.94753). Walk up the track for 600m to where it steepens briefly, then turns left and flattens out (there's a gate in the fence on your right at this point). Follow the track as it circles to the right around the knoll that is The Fortress, until you reach the saddle with the mushroom visible right next to the road. The track continues steeply uphill to 'The Jism' and 'Gibraltar Peak'.



The ease of access and signs of merriment seems to make people lose their morals here. A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the 1996 guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. These have been cut off, returning The Fortress to the glory days of down-soloing a chimney to get off most routes. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record'. In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The 'worst case', however, was at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.


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Grade Route
Mushroom Outing Aid 5m, 3

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'. BYO hangers (and possibly nuts) for the bolts.

FA: Greg Lane & friends

Unworthy Sport 5m, 1

The slab with a single large home-made hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder was unworthy of reporting by the first ascentionist, not surprisingly.

22 Anything'll Do Mixed 10m, 2

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch out as both the holds and the bolts may have fallen off...

FA: Dave Sargent & Paul Mason, 1987

18 Night Fall Mixed 8m, 2

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

16 Flying Arkwright Trad 10m

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. Camalots to #4 will make you happy if you're not a great fan of slinging chockstones. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

24 * Apprentice's Edge Sport 10m, 6

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux. Originally three bolts and six holds; now six bolts and three holds.

FA: Mike Peck & Andrew Kean, 1986

15 ** Sentry Duty Trad 10m

One of the more worthwhile climbs of its height in Canberra. The crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis & Damien Jones, 1975


As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details

V3 Carnage Trad 7m

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of No Fat Chicks. Sit start V5.

FA: B. Aikman, 2013

17 Scarpered Trad 8m

The bolted climb left of 'No Fat Chicks', starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay, was never claimed by the first offenders.

19 No Fat Chicks Mixed 8m, 3

A slabby, mossy wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder.

FA: Geoff Filmer & Damian Jovanovic, 1995

21 Fake Crack Sport 8m, 3

Good clean climbing, hidden in a short gully between boulders 40m to the right of the mushroom (as you look at it from the saddle). Follow the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top. Lower off.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

18 Postern Trad 10m

On a small group of boulders 30 metres east (towards Corin Road) from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice jamming up the right angled corner crack on the downhill side. Lower off.

FA: Matt Madin & Richard Watts, 1981

The next four climbs are on the isolated boulder 20 metres down and left (north) from the main 'mushroom' boulder.

16 Paternity Ward Trad 7m

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

23 Scratched Record Sport 10m, 2

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off. Rebolted 2011.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

16 * Blood on His Lips Trad 10m

A nice thin crack, undercut at the base. Don't worry at the wobbly starting block too much, and take RPs to protect the finish.

FA: R Curtis & J Finnegan, 1975

22 Flex Trad 10m

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

Unknown 1 Sport 10m

5m right of Flex is a short bolted slab.


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