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Description

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

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Approach

From the lookout area walk halfway to the Summit Boulders (15m), then turn left and down towards the Nailbiter spike, keeping the wall on your left. The first route you come to is Boomtown Refugee. If you keep following the wall you will get to the top of a short chimney choked by boulders. Scramble down this and around the corner to the start of Scarborough Fair. From here you can scramble up to the base of the Knife Edge Boulder.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Boomtown Refugee Mixed 10m, 1

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

FA: Craig Kentwell, 1988

2
23 Holds Go Begging Sport 15m, 3

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Richard Watts, Dave McGregor, 1985

3
23 Dim Parkio Sport 15m, 4

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

4
21 Tri-State Sport 15m, 2

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Tim Chapman, Geoff Kennett, 1982

5
8 The Groove Trad 20m

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

6
17 Dear Prudence Trad 25m

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

FA: John Carlson, Matthew Larkin, 1982

7
19 Revolution Mixed 8m, 2

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1987

8
13 Tiptoe Trad 25m

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

9
18 * Hey Jude Trad 25m

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Peter Mills, Phil Cullen, John "Chaz" Wood, 1978

10
23 Cornucopia Mixed 25m, 1

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Craig Kentwell, 1987

11
18 ** Scarborough Fair Trad 35m

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double bolt belay.

FA: Damien Jones, "Chaz" unable to follow, 1978

12

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

FA: Unknown

13
24 Trivial Pursuits Mixed 10m, 2

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

FA: Dave McGregor, Simon Carter, Dave Sargent, 1985

14
22 * Parole Mixed 25m, 2

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

FA: Richard Watts, Rob Topfer, 1984

Happy Piggyland and Simply Salsa are best accessed via the Frenchies area. From Heckmondwike Twist, walk under the knife-edge boulder to the bottom of the wall down in The Pits.

15
22 * Happy Piggyland Mixed 35m, 1

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

FA: John Stone, John Carlson, 1980

FFA: Adam Blizzard, Neil Montgomery, 1987

16
20 Simply Salsa Mixed 35m, 4

Details uncertain. Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up passing chain-link hangers to finish as for Holy Guacamole.

FA: R. Carey, 2003