Topo #1334 - Gibraltar Peak (c) ANU Mountaineering Club

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Area Type
1 Gibraltar Peak

Varied climbing on a prominent collection of boulders. Lots of slabs, a few great aretes and some stellar crack climbs make for a good day out. Most climbs get the sun, making Gibraltar a good winter destination, although there are some good shady climbs as well. Gibraltar is in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and is a popular day walk destination, so you can gawk at the tourists having lunch as you do your climb.

Crag Unlink area
2 Pox Rox

These miniscule boulders can be found near the road, 60 metres past the gate on the way down to 'The Jism' or 'The Fortress' from 'Gibraltar Peak'. Most of the routes were probably done before the ACT Granite Guide reported them. The main group of boulders is on the left (walking from Gibralter towards The Fortress).

Sector Unlink area
3 The Jism

Further down the track from 'Pox Rox' (or at the top of the hill beyond 'The Fortress') is an impressive spire on the left (over a fence), with one significant climb.

Crag Unlink area
4 The Fortress

A small area down among the trees with excellent access but limited climbing. The routes here are very varied in style and most are worthwhile. The road system falls in and out of repair through the seasons, so you may need to walk a short distance to get here. A 'ridiculous number' of bolt belays and bolt runners sprang up around the time the ACT Granite Guide was published, with old tree belays being cut down in the process. The most ridiculous addition was a set of metal steps left of 'Sentry Duty'. There was also some retrobolting, with bolts sprouting on 'Apprentice's Edge' and 'Scratched Record' (now three bolts). In the last case the climb was originally climbed with a tied-off abseil rope and first written up as having a bolt, although Richard Watts never got around to putting it in. The top hanger of the now bolts was noticeably bent at the time of printing. The 'worst case', however, is at the top of the previously unbolted 'Blood on His Lips' where a golden 'carrot' style bolt appeared in the final slab, right next to a wire placement. Many of the new bolts have been pruned.

Crag Unlink area
6 Bandito Wall

This little crag sits just above a creek. The rock quality is excellent with some great routes at all grades. Probably the most accessible crag in Canberra. It became apparent to Chris Warner who developed most of the climbs after the 2003 bushfires cleared the landscape. Shady in the morning in summer, and most of the day in winter.

Cliff Unlink area
7 The Hideout

A few gems at this tiny crag! When it is seeping at the sister cliff - Bandido Wall, you may find something drier to climb here. To find it, walk a further three minutes up the valley from Bandido.

Cliff Unlink area
5 Snake Rock

The original ACT Granite description: Slumped on the eastern side of the Corin Valley is an unimpressive pile of yellow/brown granite about to slide down into the creek. Close up, it's rather reminiscent of gritstone and has some classic short routes in the range 18-26 (complete with bolts, very unreminiscent of gritstone). A good alternative to 'Gibraltar Peak' or 'The Fortress' in winter. It is in the sun most of the day. New description: Snake Rock has become a popular little spot for getting out and about, particularly during winter when you can make the most of full sunshine on the granite. With some additional routes having been put up in sport style in addition to the earlier trad routes, the crag is now suitable for a large range of experience and interests. Just watch out if you're doing routes on the upper tier - consider slinging a rope to keep you from dropping off the ledge.

Crag Unlink area

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