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Gibraltar Peak (c) ANU Mountaineering Club

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1.1 Poultry in Motion

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. Belay of shrubs and gear. Rebolted 2010.

20
Sport 10m , 3
1.2 Armless

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

21
Trad 20m
1.3 Legless

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

20
Trad 15m
1.4 Blue Lights

The awkward leaning corner crack right on the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Now equipped with DBB. Walk off.

18
Trad 15m
1.7 * Another Roadside Attraction

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

20
Trad 15m
1.9 Bad Luck Sir

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

23
Trad 12m
1.11 * Arse Bandit

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

21
Trad 20m
1.12 Rock and Birds

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top. Now reclaimed by moss.

19
Trad 12m
1.13 Barry the Radish

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

20
Trad 20m
1.15 ** Overnight Sensation

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 100 metres right and downhill from 'Arse Bandit'.

21
Trad 18m
1.17 Plasticine People

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

19
Sport 7m
2.1 * Fat and Healthy

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

24
Sport 13m , 3
2.3 * Sound as a Trout

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station. Bolts replaced 2007 (approx)

21
Mixed 13m , 3
2.7 Get Your Motors Running

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness. Rebolted in 2007 (approx).

12
Mixed 20m , 2
2.9 Midsummer Madness

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub.

18
Trad 21m
2.10 The Lecher

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

10
Trad 20m
2.11 Rock Spiders

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

21
Trad 20m
2.12 At the Stillpoint Destruction

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts.

22
Trad 12m
2.13 Pecasso

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder. Apparently chipped but still quite hard.

24
Sport 20m , 5
2.15 Skippy's Slab

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

15
Sport 12m , 1
2.16 Goony Waltz

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 carrot bolts (bolt plates required). Rap station as for Skippy Slab

17
Sport 10m , 2
2.17 * Love Vigilante

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

20
Sport 12m , 4
2.20 Easy Rider

Start on the boulder below and right of Goony Waltz. From the Summit Boulders the best access is to head down the gully towards the Nailbiter Spike. When Picasso is reached turn right and walk through the tunnel/roof. Easy Rider is on the left of the passage after the roof. 1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12. 2. 8m (17) Big rockover and walk up the slab to DBB. 3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains as for Skippy Slab etc. Rebolted 2011. Now with Fixed hangers

12
Sport 31m , 5
2.21 Milwaukee Pig Iron

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

18
Sport 10m , 3
2.22 * Sticky Fingers

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

23
Trad 30m
2.23 * Who's Better, Who's Best

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

17
Mixed 12m , 3
2.24 * My Generation

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by five bolts. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete.

22
Trad 20m
2.25 Down By Law

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

23
Trad 15m
2.26 Return of the Marzipan Kid

Start on a boulder 50 metres below 'My Generation'. Climb up the dirty crack and slab without using the dead tree.

18
Trad 15m
2.27 Flying Leathernecks

The brushed slab with two bolts four metres left of 'Return of the Marzipan Kid'. Take wires.

21
Trad 15m
3.1 Boomtown Refugee

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

22
Trad 10m
3.2 Holds Go Begging

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt. Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

23
Sport 15m , 3
3.4 Tri-State

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23). Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

21
Sport 15m , 2
3.5 The Groove

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

8
Trad 20m
3.9 * Hey Jude

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

18
Trad 25m
3.10 Cornucopia

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

23
Trad 25m
3.11 ** Scarborough Fair

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double bolt belay.

18
Trad 35m
3.14 * Parole

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

22
Trad 25m
3.15 * Happy Piggyland

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

22
Trad 35m
3.17 Porcupine Pie

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

20
Sport 10m , 2
3.18 * Heckmondwike Twist

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

17
Trad 20m
4.1 V1 Special

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower offs. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

22
Sport 15m , 3
4.2 ** Fouled Up Turkey

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with Lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

20
Sport 15m , 3
4.13 JAM (Just Another Megaroute)

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear underneath Fouled up Turkey etc. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

14
Trad 15m
5.2.1 Ape

Straight up the chimney. Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

16
Trad 40m
5.2.2 Ape Escape

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step right of the chimney and onto the face. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

20
Trad 20m
5.2.4 Chicken Run

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

18
Trad 35m
5.1.7 Aid Route

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'. 1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers. 2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

20 M2
Aid 25m
5.1.6 Strong Persuader

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

21
Sport 10m , 3
5.1.5 ** Nail Biter

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

16
Trad 10m
5.1.4 * Consumer Item

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter. Rebolted 2009 and a lower bolt added.

19
Sport 10m , 3
5.1.3 *** Skylark

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack. Rebolted 2009 (approx)

24
Mixed 28m , 4
4.10 Labor Pains

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. The 1st bolt is quite high and there is suspect flakes down low. Rebolted 2010. Take some gear for the belay.

17
Mixed 15m , 3
4.11 * Juveniles and Geriatrics

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 40m downhill from French Connection and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer. 1. 15m (15, cux). Hard start up the flakey black slab past (2 bolts). Gear belay. 2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Rebolted 2005 (Approx).

15
Sport 30m , 5
4.14 ** No Glove No Love

Quality well protected slabbing. Traditionally the access to this climb was down the steep gulley past Juveniles and JAM. However it is easier to scramble up the back of the boulder past a bolt and rap in (DBB). This scramble starts just behind you as you look at the start of Juveniles. As you rap, tension left and clip into the left most line of 3 bolts. A 60m rope is preferable for this exercise. Best to belay off a sling or two at the start. The climb goes straight up past three bolts and then gradually drifts right. There is optional wires or micro cams near the start. Rebolted in 2006 (approx).

18
Sport 25m , 3
4.17 ** When Only The Best Will Do

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub. Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if your not solid. Rebolted 2008.

20
Sport 32m , 4
4.18 Blagdon Amateur Rapist

Ascends 3 boulders to the top of the Knife Edge. 1. 30m (15) The obvious corner/chimney just right of WOTBWD. DBB. Rap down to start of Juveniles. 2. 15m (13) Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack. 3. 14m (15) The airy groove between the top pitch of Juveniles and Fouled up Turkey. Unprotected.

15
Trad 80m
4.21 Haircare Make-up Drugs

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

19
Trad 25m
4.22 * Oddball

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

19
Trad 25m
4.23 Going Troppo

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

22
Trad 30m
4.24 Changes

Start on the boulder uphill and right of 'Oddball'. Up the off-width and slabby arete. Step left and climb the orange corner and wall above.

20
Trad 20m
4.29 * McCoy's Arete

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way. To descend, climb down the tree on the left side.

22
Sport 10m
4.28 ** Antipodean Alrocilies

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing on the impressive black wall above the main slabs. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

25
Sport 20m
4.30 Atom Ant

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

22
Trad 13m
4.32 Professor Longhair and the Shuffling Hungarians

This is on a small boulder 30 metres west of 'Changes'. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

14
Trad 10m
4.33 Mario and the Blue Angels

Start 20 metres downhill of the previous climb, on a boulder with a flake. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

17
Trad 15m
4.15 * On the Beach

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

19
Sport 30m , 2
5.3.1 Captain America

The obvious rightwards leaning corner.

16
Trad 12m
5.3.2 The Seventh Hedgehog

The ramps and blocks 10 metres right of 'Captain America'.

14
Trad 12m
5.2.5 Swinging Seat

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height. 1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave. 2. 13 metres - Out of the cave and up the V-crack to the top.

19
Trad 30m
5.2.6 * Monkey Business

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Start at the dead branch leaning against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

21
Trad 25m

Gibraltar Peak (c) ANU Mountaineering Club

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