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Summary

Might be a DWS location now - the water looks to be deep enough when the dam is full, but a few trees and logs would need to be shifted, and Icon may not aprove

Description

A porphyry/rhyodacite crag in Pierce's Creek. The first ascentionists are dreaming about the heights here. They're more like half those listed. The photo topo lines are guesses based on the descriptions and a quick look at the cliff

Access issues inherited from Pierce's Creek

Mostly state forest, but some of the Western areas fall inside the water protection zone.

Approach

Turn off Paddys river road at the Vanities crossing sign, just before the entry to the Pierces Bouldering area.

Follow the more trafficked path to the end, turn left, then stay right. Follow the road down to the creek, ford and picnic area. Stay East of the creek, and drive down along the creek as far as you can, then get out and follow the creek down. The blackberries and scrub is thick if you try and go overland, and the descent is a bit dodgy.

Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek

A number of problems have been established and reestablished since the fires and to a large extent climb like the original problems.

History

View historical timeline

Development in the area was mainly undertaken in the mid-80's.

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Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

  1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

  2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

FA: Matt Madin & Bill Begg

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

FA: Matt Madin & Dave MacGregor, 1985

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

  1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

  2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

FA: Dave McGregor & Matt Madin, 1985

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

  1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

  2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

FA: Matt Madin & Dave McGregor (alt.), 1985

Likely under the dam I think, it depends whether the horizontal distances are as far out as the vertical

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

FA: Ben Jones & David Lyons, 1989

Activity

Check out what is happening in Watt's Wall.