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Summary

"It does have one good route"

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Description

A porphyry/rhyodacite crag in Pierce's Creek - if you can find it.

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Approach

Turn right at the corrugated iron shed on the way into Pierce's Creek, and follow the winding road to the other side of The Sugarloaf. Turn left, ford Pierce's Creek past a picnic area on your right and head uphill for 150 metres. Turn right then veer left and park at the bottom near the creek. Bushbash or wade downstream for about 5 minutes until you see (at the base of the waterfall) one of the less noteworthy porphyry/rhyodacite crags in the ACT, whereupon you go home (it does have one good route).

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History

Development in the area was mainly undertaken in the mid-80's.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Never Get Famous Trad 50m

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

  1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

  2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

FA: Matt Madin, Bill Begg

2

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave MacGregor, 1985

3
23 M1 Discount for Heroes Aid 35m

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

  1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

  2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

FA: Dave McGregor, Matt Madin, 1985

4

Dirty. Start up right about eight metres from Discount For Heroes.

  1. 20 metres (18) Climb the short crack then up left past a flake.

  2. 25 metres (21) Up the crack (as for Never Get Famous) and through the roof.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave McGregor (alt.), 1985

5
22 M1 Six Blade Knife Aid 25m

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

FA: Ben Jones, David Lyons, 1989

Open trips

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