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Summary

A pleasant, if isolated little crag situated at the head of 'Punchbowl Creek' and overlooking Booroomba Homestead.

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Description

Climbs are described from left to right. There is a rap anchor at the top of the main wall, above 'Black Satin Lingerie'.

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Approach

Drive out on the Corin Road past the Gibraltar Peak turnoff and turn left onto the second track after crossing Gibraltar Creek. Follow the track up to a T-junction and turn right, passing a large clearing. Turn left at the next intersection, then turn left again; follow this track, next to a log-filled creek on the right for some way then take two sharp right turns and climb out of the gully. Park at the T-intersection on the edge of the pine plantation. A low saddle can be seen between two peaks to the southeast. White Horse Rocks are just out of sight on the northeast side of the left-hand peak. Cross the fence, then the creek and bushbash to the top of the left-hand hill. A very crude track has been bulldozed down the hill from the crag, but it does not reach the pine forest; follow it up after you stumble across it. The walk to the rocks, just over the lip, should take about fifteen minutes.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first two climbs are on an isolated buttress 200 metres down the ridge from the main crag.

1

The obvious hand-sized layback crack.

FA: Mark Sands, David Jenkins, 1987

2

Up the corner two metres right of 'Nothing Too Serious' - use the left wall, then the arete.

FA: David Jenkins, Mark Sands, 1987

3
15 Knuckles Trad 15m

The surprisingly tricky crack at the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a spacious ledge then up the short corner crack. Move right to finish below the hanging blocks.

FA: Dick Curtis, Mike Todd, Tony Wood, John Spahr, 1975

4
22 False Start Trad 12m

The groove four metres down from 'Knuckles'. Bouldery start is the crux.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (solo), 1983

5

Start below a grassy recess left of 'Gibber Tari', and follow the crack and chimney before traversing right to finish.

FA: Dick Curtis, John Spahr, 1975

6
17 Gibber Tari Trad 18m

Off-width chimney with a bulge at two-thirds height, down and left from 'Transience'.

FA: Joe Friend, John Lamb, 1979

7
17 Transience Trad 20m

Start at the corner around 10m from 'Short Shrift'. Climb up for two metres, then right around the arete and up the short crack and dirty groove.

FA: Adam Blizzard, John Churchill, 1986

8
10 Short Shrift Trad 10m

V-shaped chimney. Exit left.

FA: Mike Todd, Tony Wood, 1975

9
18 Dragon Trad 25m

Off-width crack just left of 'Blue Wind'.

FA: Phil Cullen, Ian "Sam" Baker, John Stone, 1978

10
20 ** Blue Wind Trad 23m

Steep and sustained, the obvious line on the main wall. Shares a start with 'Blue Velvet'.

FA: Damien Jones, Paul Daniel, 1978

11
24 * Blue Velvet Trad 20m

A technical but well-protected traverse. Start as for 'Blue Wind' for 5 metres, then head right past four bolts. Traverse right from the ledge to belay as for 'Short Soup'.

FA: Mike Peck, Craig Kentwell, 1987

12
26 ** Black Satin Lingerie Sport 20m, 6

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts.

FA: Simon Carter, 1991

13
18 Short Soup Trad 15m

Crack left of 'Cratercritter'. Originally done in two pitches.

FA: Dick Curtis, Peter Mills, 1975

14
17 Cratercritter Trad 20m

Offwidth crack. Requires big pro - stacked hexes (at the time). The impressive flake-formed off-width left of 'Stormbringer'.

FA: John Stone, 1978

15
20 Stormbringer Trad 10m

Two metres left of 'Skewer'.

FA: Adam Blizzard, 1986

16
19 Skewer Mixed 12m, 2

Short and sharp - finish up a short slab section. The wall with two bolts a couple of metres left of 'Johnny Walker'.

FA: Andrew Kean, Mike Peck, 1986

17
10 Johnny Walker Trad 12m

Wide crack at the right hand side of the crag.

FA: Tony Wood, Mike Todd, 1975

Open trips

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