A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Mt Tibrogargan 271 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.946609, -26.927205


The most popular mountain in the glasshouses for rock climbing. The big monkey-looking one near the highway. Sport and trad climbing. Single and multi-pitch. Memorable positions.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Travelling north after taking the 'Glasshouse Mountains' Tourist Route off the Bruce 'Highway', drive for 6.5 km to a L turn onto Caves Ln, marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Take second L under the railway bridge onto Evans Rd, then turn L again onto Berteaus Rd. Follow this with the nursery initially on your right, and then on both sides of you. Take the signposted L-turn towards 'Mt Tibrogargan' (small knee-high green-and-yellow sign just beyond the nursery yard; sandy dirt track). You'll pass two more identical signs before reaching a carpark on the L (1.3km from the main road turnoff).

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

1.1. Slider Wall 52 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.945977, -26.928669


Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Fires of Jealousy

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

10 Trad 25m
2 Blowing Bubbles

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gary Meyrick, 1999

17 Sport 15m
3 You win some you lose some

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright, Peta Barrett, 2007

27 Sport 15m, 4
4 ** Monkey Magic

Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Crimpy climbing. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick, 1999

23 Sport 10m, 4
5 * Magictrip

A link-up, linking the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic before heading right and finishing up Tripitaka.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

23 Sport 20m, 7
6 * Tripitaka

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

23 Sport 14m
7 * Pigsy

Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal, 2004

21 Sport 12m
8 * The Minx And The Slug


Start: At Something about Sandy

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn, 2007

23 Sport 12m
9 Something About Sandy

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

19 Sport 13m, 5
10 The Horse

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

16 Sport 12m, 4
11 * Monster Master (link up)

A link up.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts beforing heading right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

FA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2007

24 Sport 20m
12 * Such A Nice Monster

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

FA: G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson, 2004

15 Sport 15m
13 * The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

21 Sport 13m
14 * Even Monsters Can Be People

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

24 Sport 14m, 7
15 ** The Vampire Master

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

FA: Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

24 Sport 10m
16 A Shadow So Huge

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn, 2007

21 Sport 8m
17 * Outrageous Coincidences

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22 Sport 8m, 3
18 unknown

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

15 Trad 30m

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the fixed ropes up and around this section (a few minutes scramble) to arrive on the relatively flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

19 ** Watermark

FA: Gareth Llewellin

V6 Boulder 8m
20 Procrastinator

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22 Sport 17m
21 ** Procrastislider

Start up Procastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2007

22 Sport 16m
22 *** Procrastisquealer 23 Sport
23 * Procrastihowler

A link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

24 Sport 20m
24 ** Procrastiwailer

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

26 Sport 23m
25 ** Vigorous Procrastination

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

27 Sport
26 ** The Forty Metre Mile

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes, 2006

28 Sport 38m
27 *** The Expedition

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

28 Sport 40m, 24
28 Pandora

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2009

29 Sport 42m, 25
29 *** Departures

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: Ross Ferguson, Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

29 Sport 42m, 25
30 *** Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2008

22 Sport 16m, 7
31 Swinger

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

18 Sport 19m
32 *** Squealer

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23 Sport 18m, 6
33 *** Squealer (pre 2005)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23 Sport 21m
34 *** Madder

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25 Sport 15m, 5
35 *** Howler VF

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

25 Sport 16m
36 *** Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

24 Sport 16m, 5
37 *** Wowler

Linkup, start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

25 Sport 18m, 5
38 *** Wailer

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Start: Start as for 'Howler'. Now has it's own first bolt for days when it's busy.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

25 Sport 18m, 4
39 *** Chain Reaction

Wailer into Dr Pinocchio into The Overseer. Classic pumper!

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

27 Sport 30m
40 *** Hybrid Vigour

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

27 Sport 24m
41 ** The Final Piece

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25 Sport 17m, 6
42 ** Geppetto

Climb The Final Piece into Overseer.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

25 Sport 30m
43 ** Doctor Pinocchio

FA: Russell Bright, Ross Ferguson, 2008

24 Sport 20m
44 *** Pinocchio's Extension

Doctor Pinocchio into The overseer. Pumper.

26 Sport 28m
45 ** Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

21 Sport 27m
46 Overseer RHV

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2009

24 Sport 30m

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

47 What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22 Sport 8m, 3
48 Monkey Swallows The Universe

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellyn, 2006

14 Mixed 15m, 2
49 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

12 Mixed 20m, 5

These 2 climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

50 * Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

FA: Ryan Castel, 2014

19 Sport 18m
51 * Branigan's Law

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan Castel and Natalie, 2005

20 Sport 15m, 4
52 * The Robot Devil

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

21 Sport 15m

1.2. Porcelain Wall 6 routes in Area

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.946720, -26.928593

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Floater

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

21 Mixed 20m, 7
2 Prairie Doggin

FA: Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel, 2007

23 Sport 12m, 4
3 (Project) Unknown 12m
4 Dumptruck

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

24 Sport 12m, 6
5 Ripple

FA: Marcus O'Mara, Phil Box, 2007

22 Sport 23m, 7
6 Rattle

FA: Marcus O'Mara, Craig Pohlman, 2007

18 Sport 25m

1.3. Celestial Wall 20 routes in Area

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.946902, -26.928754

Description:© (gremlin)

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Troposphere p1

Start about 30 metres to the west of the climbers access track. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

15 Sport 30m
2 * Troposphere p2

Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

17 Sport 15m
3 * Troposphere p3

This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

FFA: Phil box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

18 Sport 15m
4 Troposphere p4

Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

15 Sport 25m
5 Troposphere p5

Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

16 Sport 30m
6 C Section

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name.

Start: At the top of pitch 1 of 'Troposphere'

FA: Phil Box, JJ O'Brien, 2007

18 Sport 25m
7 Rescision

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

19 Sport 15m
8 Heliosphere

Up the slab passing about ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

14 Sport 35m
9 * Zenith

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

24 Sport 25m, 8
10 * Vernal Equinox

The line of 11 FH's directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

22 Sport 28m
11 *** Latitudes

A long, exciting pitch, and probably a bit stiff for 21, but we don't want to have every route graded 22.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Lee Cujes

22 Sport 35m
12 Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'.

  1. 35m (16) At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L.

  2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge.

  3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

  4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

16 Sport 35m
13 ** Voyager p2 22 Sport 12m
14 ** Voyager p3

All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch as for 'Aphelion'.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it\'s a tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to 'Halfway House' terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of 'Aphelion' and rap with two 60 metre ropes.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Cam Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

23 Sport 100m
15 Voyager p4 17 Sport 30m
16 * Aphelion p2 21 Sport 12m
17 *** Aphelion p3

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

22 Sport 30m
18 * Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3 22 Sport 10m
19 ** Rubicon p1

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH. Marked 'R'.

  1. 45m (18) 12 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

  2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

  3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2004

18 Sport 45m
20 *** Rubicon p2

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box

22 Sport 30m

1.4. Clemency Wall 14 routes in Area

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.947516, -26.928656

Description:© (gremlin)

Routes are listed from left to right.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Access as for 'Celestial Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to 'Clemency Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Clemency

Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

  1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

  2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch).

  3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

  4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

  5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

  6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FFA: Unknown.

FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

16 Trad 230m 6
2 Sent From Above

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

23 Sport 12m
3 Apricots

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

16 Trad 28m
4 The Mace

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box, Lee Skidmore, 2002

22 Trad 18m
5 ** Alienation

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2002

20 Trad 18m
6 ** Divergence

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2002

19 Trad 20m
7 Tested Twisticle (left)

FA: Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

17 Trad 32m
8 * Tested Twisticle (right)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2005

18 Trad 35m
9 *** The Simon Vos Memorial

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders, 2006

27 Sport 18m
10 *** Caritas

FA: Lee Skidmore Phil Box, 2004

22 Sport 18m
11 * Guenevere

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

  1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

  2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

  3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, Samantha Coles, 2003

17 Trad 90m 3
12 Lancelot 15 Trad 90m 4
13 * Dreadnought

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

  1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

  3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

  4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

  5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

  6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

  7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

  8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

  9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

  10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

  11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

  12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1970

16 Trad 380m 12
14 Dreadnought VF 18 Trad 75m 2

1.5. Halfway House 23 routes in Area

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.946952, -26.928636

Description:© (gremlin)

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cunningly Deceptive

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003

21 Mixed 25m, 2
2 Rocketsauce

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19 Sport 12m
3 Tenacious D

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19 Sport 12m
4 The Court Jester p1

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

14 Trad 15m
5 * The Court Jester p2

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17 Trad 20m
6 Emu-less

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003

22 R Trad 12m
7 * Gut Punch The Budda

Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

23 Sport 12m
8 ** Maponus p1
  1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

  2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003

22 Trad 12m
9 ** Maponus p2 23 Sport 25m
10 * The Sword In The Stone

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

18 Trad 25m
11 ** Dagda

Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

25 Sport 25m
12 *** Voluptuous

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

24 Sport 11m
13 ** Bargearse

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous, just L of the small banksia tree. Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009

23 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 *** The Elite Republican Guard

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes

24 Sport 15m
15 ** Hungry Beast

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. After the first bolt (shared with Elite Rebuplican Guard) head sightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock (five more FH's) to lower-off. Steeper than it looks.

FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009

20 Sport 15m
16 ** Love, Honour and Belay

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. Six FH's.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009

25 Sport 16m, 6
17 * I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me

The bolted orange corner.

FA: Pat Daly, 2004

22 Sport 30m
18 Switch Blade Honey

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

25 Sport 30m
19 ** Pigs In Space

Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

26 Sport 30m
20 ** DV8

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

27 Sport 30m
21 *** Black Op's

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24 Sport 30m
22 Storm Watch

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24 Sport 30m
23 Spooky House

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17 Trad 30m

1.6. Carborundum Wall 17 routes in Area

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.948112, -26.927447


NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".

Approach:© (gremlin)

Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the R branch (signposted 'East Face' rock climbers access 600m) and follow this for 400m where it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face (200m uphill). The track meets the rock between 'Carborundum Chimney' and 'Patience Crack'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Faith 12 Trad 100m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Every Day I Start To Ooze

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Often wet.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

21 Trad 18m
3 * Liquid Skin

Start: 3m right of Patience Crack. Often wet.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (both led), 2006

23 Trad 18m
4 ** Patience Crack VS

Left at the chimney 10m up.

13 Trad 96m
5 * Patience Crack

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: 8m R of Carborundum Chimney at a big tree.

This is a great, well-protected route.

  1. 40m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock. From here, there are two options. 1. Trend L and up to ledge then continue up and R for 18m to base of crack. 2. Continue directly up through the half-chimney.

  2. 24m (13) Follow the obvious crack straight up, by layback, bridging and wall climbing. Gain stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree.

  3. 22m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge and TB. Up easy rock and some scree, then out R to join the Caves Route.

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, Woody Milroy, 21st Jun

15 Trad 86m 3

The walking track meets the cliff at this point.

6 Phoenix

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

  1. 25m (17) 5FHs: From start of CC, move up and R to first FH, then blocky highsteps past 3 FH's to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

  2. 25m (16) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

  3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the steep crux section. Use your legs and don't rip off the crucial hold made of ash.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham, Nigel Joyce, 2013

FA: Nigel Joyce, Zac Trembath-pitham, 2014

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, Nigel Joyce, 2014

16 to 21 Sport 70m 3, 21
7 ** Carborundum Chimney

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

  1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

  2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

  3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the 'Caves Route' above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit.

FA: Neill Lamb, Mark Andrews, 1955

11 Trad 82m 4
8 ** Remains Of The Day

First bolted route as the track begins to dip.

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, this route should remain off limits from August - November.

  1. 20m (17)

  2. 28m (15)

  3. 28m (16)

  4. 30m (16)

  5. 30m (13)

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Bill Strachan, 2007

17 Trad 150m 5
9 Banished For Infidelity

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

  1. 30m (17) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting. Can be climbed as a single pitch by lowering off the anchors of First Contact, or otherwise scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor at the belay.

  2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at half height. Mind the choss just before the belay.

  3. 20m (20) Up through some interesting rock to amazing roof, ease around corner to be confronted with some delicate manoeuvers to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge (alternatively, this pitch goes direct through the roof at 24).

  4. 35m (17) Wanders right of the belay above the lip of the cave, up steep gully and skirt under overhang and continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right, up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rapped by following the hangers.

  5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the less than inspiring rock. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

  6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

FFA: 2011

FA: Phil Box, Jay McGechan, Steve Kloske., 2011

20 Sport 170m 6

This section of the cliff is called Insurrection Wall and offers a handful of moderate single pitch sport routes. Great for an afternoon.

10 First Contact

5m L of Banished For Infidelity and first route with black hangers. 7 FHs, lower-off.

20 Sport 20m, 7
11 * Into Darkness

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

FA: John J O'Brien, Lee Cujes, 2013

20 Sport 18m, 7
12 Insurrection

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

18 Sport 25m, 7
13 ** Insurrection VS

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

21 Sport 28m, 8
14 * Nine Month Sojourn

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

20 Sport 25m, 8
15 Leaving On A Jet Plane

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

20 Sport 25m, 8
16 Steaming

Bugger all gear. Dangerous.

16 Trad 60m
17 ** Airtime Over Pumicestone

Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens.

  1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

  2. 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

  3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L.

  4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

  5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

  6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

FA: Lee Cujes (1, 2, 4), Phil Box (3, 6), 2003

21 Trad 250m 6

1.7. Caves Route Sector 6 routes in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948394, -26.926511

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Caves Route

Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB.

Start: 20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.

  1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

  2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R.

  3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again.

  4. 150m (4) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to 'Trojan', then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge.

This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.

FA: Bert Salmon, 6th Jun

4 Trad 300m 4
2 * Caves Route Direct 10 Trad 40m
3 Super Directissima 12 Trad 23m
4 The Cave 3 project (Asimov) (OPEN)

OPEN PROJECT - the line directly up the guts of cave 3. Heads up through the roof and then out onto the steep headwall to finish standing on the ledge. Will be hard!!

Set by Dan Gordon, Sam Bowman & Jonathon Schwartz, 2014

30 to 33 Mixed Project 8m, 7
5 Traverse To Cave 4 / Bertie Salmon Traverse 2 Trad 40m
6 * Caves Route VF

This is the alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney if you want to reach the north-east shoulder to climb to the summit. Starting where the track meets the rock at the half-way scrub scramble the small gully and then traverse right, passing the start of "The Big Empty" until you are on the shoulder. The traverse is easy but needs to be completed on an exposed 45° slab.

4 Trad 130m

1.8. Summit Cave 55 routes in Area

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.947796, -26.926809

Description:© (djbiggs)

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Overexposed

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

  1. 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

  2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

  3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

  4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

  5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

FA: Les Wood,Donn Groom, 30th Jul

15 Trad 120m 5
2 Overexposed DF

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

FA: John Oddie,Rick White, 1970

16 Trad
3 Ronald Muck

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

21 Trad 45m
4 *** Tangled Up In Blue p1

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

25 Sport 30m
5 *** Tangled Up In Blue p2

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

25 Sport 30m
6 ** Massive Attack

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

28 Trad 28m 2
7 Massive Attack p2 Sport Project
8 *** Back in Black

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

25 Trad 20m
9 ** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

24 Trad 80m 3
10 Raptures

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins

24 Trad 60m 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Strange Fruit

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24 Sport 25m
12 Somebody Else's Weirdo 24 Sport 20m
13 * Littlebro

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

24 Sport 9m, 4
14 ** Punk's Not Dead

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

23 Sport 16m
15 ** Four Seasons

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

22 Sport 28m
16 *** Trojan

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 12th Mar

13 Trad 72m 5
17 Achilles

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

26 Sport 10m
18 *** The Bends

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

27 Sport 15m
19 *** The Beast from the East

FA: A.Donoghue

29 Sport 15m
20 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

30 Sport 20m
21 Staple It Together

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

20 Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

26 Sport 25m
23 * Hyperballad

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25 Sport 15m
24 ** Morning of the Earth

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

24 Sport 20m
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

22 Sport 20m
26 *** Bird of Prey p2

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

25 Sport 13m
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

23 Sport 22m
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 23 Sport 13m
29 Short And Sweet 13 Trad 35m
30 ** Big Empty p1 21 Sport 30m
31 Big Empty p2

FA: Gareth and Ross

21 Sport 1m
32 ** Walk the Line

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

17 Sport 25m
33 ** Circlet 22 Sport 16m
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1

FA: Gareth?

20 Sport 20m
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2

FA: Gareth?

18 Sport 15m
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

18 Sport 20m, 6
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

25 Sport 20m, 6
38 Kronos 11 Trad 23m
39 Jupiter 13 Trad 39m
40 Juno 13 Trad 30m
41 Hercules 9 Trad 30m
42 Prometheus II Traverse 8 Trad 60m
43 Prometheus II 8 Trad 43m
44 Prometheus II VF 11 Trad 20m
45 Prometheus III 13 Trad 13m
46 Prometheus II DF 18 Trad 20m
47 Boags Lite 12 Sport 19m, 4


48 ** Seven Year Itch

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of A Kneebar Too Far at Mount Coolum.

FA: @rockyrules, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: @leecujes, 2012

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

28 Sport 15m, 6
49 * Puniverse

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

23 Sport 6m, 3
50 (Link Project - LC)

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

Sport Project
51 * No Membership Required

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right. The epic extension out the roof is a closed project.

FA: @rockyrules,@marco32, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

23 Sport 10m, 4
52 (The Big Roof Project - Lee)

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

Sport Project 20m
53 ** One Alien, four people and a tree

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

24 Sport 8m, 4
54 * Crikey

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

FA: @rockyrules,@marco32, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

22 Sport 10m, 4
55 * Groundhog Day

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms. This took Craig over 60 days of work to complete so the grade needs a thorough examination.

FA: @rockyrules, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

27 to 29 Sport 16m

1.9. Desperation Wall 21 routes in Area

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948773, -26.926131

Approach:© (Trent)

Access as for 'Carborundum Wall' sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Keloid 9 Trad 45m
2 Wasp 10 Trad 83m
3 Wasp RHV 12 Trad 69m
4 Directissima 13 Trad 98m
5 ** Line Of Credit

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

  1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station.

  2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station.

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.

FA: Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman, 2004

16 Sport 70m 2, 23
6 Desperation Wall 15 Trad 130m 4
7 *** Straight to the Pool Room

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

21 Trad 30m
8 ** Pool Room JSV (Jousting Sticks Variant)

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

23 Trad 8m
9 * Ishoni 19 Trad 35m
10 * Tell Him He's Dreaming

FA: G.Llewellin B. Strachan, 2007

18 Trad 29m
11 Ideas Man

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and anchor.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Ben Carter, 2013

19 Trad 30m
12 * Zeitgeist

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

  1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

  2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

  3. 35m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble up a few metres into Cave 3, then down and L into the large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Descent via the 'Caves Route' consists of easy scrambling with some optional rapping for the steeper sections.

FA: David & Ruth Reeve and a host of helpers, 2010

17 Sport 110m 3
13 ** Black Angus

FA: Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson, 2008

15 Trad 110m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Black Orpheus

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.

  3. 40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.

  4. 15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

FA: Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers, 1969

10 Trad 140m 4
15 Black Orpheus Variant 11 Trad 35m
16 The Whiteman 12 Trad 150m
17 Vagabond 14 Trad 150m
18 Orpheus 8 Trad 150m
19 Earthenware

Climbs the white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. Crap pro, good rock.

10 Trad 25m
20 Head In The Trees

Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!

FA: Unknown

10 Trad 15m
21 Prometheus I

A novel way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as nice as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery. Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gulley that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the Northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

  1. Scramble up the gully with a short steeper section into the bushes, stop when you find a shady spot or some scrub big enough to belay off.

  2. Climb the short wall into the bushes and repeat as per pitch one.

  3. Climb up between the shitty rock and the harder stuff to the right. Bush bash to something resembling a belay.

  4. Move left and head in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Rope drag will guide this decision.

  5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney with zero gear, top out into cave 4. Apply lotion to scratches from bush bashing and then descend by traversing left (facing cave) out of the cave to join the top of Black Orpheus. The unpleasantness of P4/5 and the traverse can be avoided by heading left at the top of P2 and linking up with Orpheus (some bad rock at the start but still about grade 4).

FA: Ron Brooks 1953,Ron Brooks,Neil Lamb,Ron Brooks, 1953

4 Trad 120m 5

1.10. Candy Mountain 19 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.948956, -26.925500


A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.


From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.


The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, Zac Trembath and Nigel Woodward in December 2013.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kind to be Cruel

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. .


FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

5 Sport 12m
2 Cruel to be Kind


Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

4 Sport 12m
3 Dancing in the Rain


Set by zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

3 Sport 12m
4 The Mgical Liopleurodon

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

15 Sport 12m
5 This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

17 Sport 12m
6 Charlie

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

18 Sport 12m
7 More Smart More Safe

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

15 Sport 12m
8 After Dinner Delight

Starts to the left of a tree growing very close to the cliff. Shares anchors with 'More Smart More Safe'

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

14 Sport 12m, 6
9 Critter Christmas

Starts in the "cave" directly in front of tree growing close to the cliff. Low first bolt protects the crux, second bolt is well hidden up to the left. Tend right at the top to the 'Banana King' anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17 Sport 12m, 5
10 Banana King

Start to the right of tree growing very close to the cliff. Move up on great holds all the way to the top.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward, Steve Kloske, 2013

14 Sport 12m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Cookie Monster

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward, Steve Kloske, 2013

18 Sport 12m, 5
12 * Lichen the Candy

Follows the crack up through the green patch. Shares anchors with 'The Real Rainbow Unicorn'.

As of December 2014 it is missing it's first bolt. It's not too hard to get to the second (now first) bolt, but be careful.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske, 2013

17 Sport 12m, 6
13 The Real Rainbow Unicorn

Start in front of the comfy belay tree. Bottom bolt missing (noted August 2014) so take a stick-clip.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske, 2013

15 Sport 12m, 5
14 Glove Slap

Bottom bolt missing, so take a stick clip for this one (August 2014)

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

14 Sport 12m, 5
15 One Eyed Wanderer

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

18 Sport 12m
16 Old Elvis

Up to the left of the orange streak

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17 Sport 12m, 5
17 Papa Smurf

Up to the right of the orange streak

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

19 Sport 12m
18 Fairy Floss

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

16 Sport 12m, 6
19 Happy Pants

One hard move.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

20 Sport 12m

1.11. NE Buttress Sector 12 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948303, -26.925507


From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.

Descent Notes:

Almost all the 'NE Buttress Sector' climbs finish at the top of the buttress. There are a number of ways to descend from here:

  • Follow the rough track along the northeast ridge towards the 'Tibro' summit. Descend either via the 'Caves Route' or the 'West Track' (tourist track).
  • Rap down the last 3 pitches of 'Sunburnt Buttress' then rap straight down to the big tree in the gully below. One more rap off the anchor cable around the tree gets you to the ground. Two ropes required.
  • Rap down 'Blabbermouth' - 7 x 30m raps.
  • Rap down 'El Scorcho' - 4 x 60m raps.

Read about the development of 'Sunburnt Buttress' in this article on qurank.com

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

About 100m along the cliff base from 'Desperation Wall' is an obvious slabby buttress with the initials "NEB" at its rightmost end.

1 ** Ross Miller Route

Ross Miller Route 190m, 21 An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Bring a #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing. Access: When you reach the rock face having walked up the access track from the ring road, the Ross Miller Route starts from the ledge directly above you. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right hand side of the tree and traverse right until you see the large rock wall with an ironwood bush at the bottom. The route starts behind this bush. Route:

  1. 25m (18) (sport) Start directly behind broken ironwood tree, up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

  2. 25m (15) (sport) Typically Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to anchor.

  3. 20m (11) (trad) head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

  4. 25m (18) (sport) up following FH's right of blunt arete.

  5. 25m (19) (sport) engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

  6. 25m (13) (sport) climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

  7. 15m (21) (sport) left to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor.

  8. 30m (16) (sport) follow line of well spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way. To exit:

    • either traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off. or
    • Continue climbing strait up unprotected but on easy climbing and good rock.
    • Rap back down in 6 pitches:

      1) 30m straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7)

      2) 40m straight down to anchor at top of 5

      3) 40m down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch

      4) 20m straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here

      5) 25m traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

      6) 25m to ground and scramble out the way you came in.

FA: Annett Miller, Bernie Walsh, Steve Kloske, 2013

21 Trad 190m 8
2 The Kloske Conection

The Kloske Connection 50m, 23 Climb to the top of P3 on the Ross Miller Route and scramble 10m L to DBB, Joins the anchors of P6 RMR.

  1. 25m 18 Climb up very poorly protected section of rock to a single cam and wire placement from here run it out to the anchor. Anchor has 1 fixed hanger and needs gear. 25m 23 climb up bridging and jamming through rooflet on natural prow of all sorts for about 10m until the bolts (5) are reached then continue up to anchor

Set by Steve Kloske

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2013

FA: Steve Kloske, 2013

23 Mixed 55m 2, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Sideshow Bob

Start 10m L of 'The North-East Buttress'. Marked "Sbo".

FA: Wayne Meith, A. Anderson, 2005

20 Trad 250m 8
4 The North-East Buttress

Start at "NEB" mark.

FA: Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy, 1965

11 Trad 300m 10
5 Escape from NEB

A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.

  1. 30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegatated gully with schrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag.

  2. 35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).

FA: P. Conaghan, G. Hardy, 1965

14 Trad 70m 2

From 'The North-East Buttress' continue along the base of the cliff up the slope. After about 100m the ground levels off at an alcove about 10m wide.

6 ** Blabbermouth

Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away. All BRs are now FHs.

  1. 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.

  2. 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  3. 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).

  4. 20m (13) Straight up past 5 BRs.

  5. 28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).

  6. 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  7. 20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

Rack: to #3 friend.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

16 Trad 200m 7
7 * Blabbermouth VS

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2005

13 Trad 22m
8 Rock Garden 11 Trad 220m
9 ** Sunburnt Buttress

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

  1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

  2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

  3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

  4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

  5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

  6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

19 Trad 190m 6
10 ** El Scorcho

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2005

21 Trad 110m
11 ** Tommy Dodd

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

18 Trad 100m
12 ** The Chris Mann Route

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

20 Trad 98m

1.12. Shadow Glen 17 routes in Area

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.947676, -26.925082

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Peeping Tom 18 Trad 8m
2 * Kitsch 22 Sport 9m
3 Sweet Flower Girl

FA: ross ferguson gareth llewelyn

25 Trad 10m
4 Suburban Sprawl 22 Trad 15m
5 Suburban Sprawl Variant 21 Trad 15m
6 Domestos 16 Trad 15m
7 Vagabond 15 Trad 35m
8 Highlander 16 Trad 45m
9 * Brick Boxes

Start 10m R of 'Highlander'.

Solo up the moderately difficult slab to 2 FHs at the same (ridiculously high!) height. Clip the L FH then trend L clipping 2 more FHs. After the 3rd FH head sharply R to the 4th and final FH, then straight up to DBB shared with 'The Black Planet'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow, 1996

20 Sport 20m, 4
10 Tribulation

Start at the 'Brick Boxes' DBB.

Continue up wall on marginal protection to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow, 1996

13 R Trad 25m
11 * The Black Planet

Start as for 'Brick Boxes'.

On (finally!) reaching the 2 FHs, clip the R one and follow the line of 3 more FHs to the DBB shared with 'Brick Boxes'. Crux is at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1996

20 Sport 20m, 4
12 * Flame 'n' Sparks 18 Trad 25m
13 Brit Pop 23 Trad 15m
14 Liquid Pleasures 18 Trad 15m
15 Vege Abattoir

Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'.

Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' DBB. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 R Trad 13m
16 Armageddon

Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR. Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

FA: Ana Greer, Neil Monteith, 1996

17 Sport 13m, 2
17 Inspiration

Start at crack 3m R of 'Armageddon'.

Follow the curving crack to the 'Armageddon' DBB.

FA: Karl Curnow, Neil Monteith, 1996

10 Trad 13m

1.13. West Face 4 routes in Area

Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.945189, -26.927359

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Felp 10 Trad 200m
2 Felp II

FA: 2004

13 Trad 300m
3 ** West Track 1 Unknown 370m
4 Microtome 14 Trad 100m

1.14. South Face 4 routes in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.945943, -26.928171

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Face Route 8 Trad 190m
2 Better You Than Me 18 Trad 50m
3 On Bended Knee 17 Trad 45m
4 Rain Drops 14 Trad 45m

1.15. North Face 1 route in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.946916, -26.926071

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Face Route 8 Trad 87m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 ** West Track Unknown 370m 1.13. West Face
2 Traverse To Cave 4 Trad 40m 1.7. Caves Route Sector
3 Dancing in the Rain Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
4 *** Caves Route Trad 300m 4 1.7. Caves Route Sector
* Caves Route VF Trad 130m 1.7. Caves Route Sector
Prometheus I Trad 120m 5 1.9. Desperation Wall
Cruel to be Kind Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
5 Kind to be Cruel Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m 1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II Traverse Trad 60m 1.8. Summit Cave
Orpheus Trad 150m 1.9. Desperation Wall
South Face Route Trad 190m 1.14. South Face
North Face Route Trad 87m 1.15. North Face
9 Hercules Trad 30m 1.8. Summit Cave
Keloid Trad 45m 1.9. Desperation Wall
10 The Fires of Jealousy Trad 25m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Caves Route Direct Trad 40m 1.7. Caves Route Sector
** Black Orpheus Trad 140m 4 1.9. Desperation Wall
Earthenware Trad 25m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Head In The Trees Trad 15m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Wasp Trad 83m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Inspiration Trad 13m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Felp Trad 200m 1.13. West Face
11 ** Carborundum Chimney Trad 82m 4 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Kronos Trad 23m 1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II VF Trad 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
Black Orpheus Variant Trad 35m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Rock Garden Trad 220m 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
The North-East Buttress Trad 300m 10 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
12 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven Mixed 20m, 5 1.1. Slider Wall
Faith Trad 100m 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Super Directissima Trad 23m 1.7. Caves Route Sector
Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4 1.8. Summit Cave
The Whiteman Trad 150m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Wasp RHV Trad 69m 1.9. Desperation Wall
13 ** Patience Crack VS Trad 96m 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Juno Trad 30m 1.8. Summit Cave
Jupiter Trad 39m 1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus III Trad 13m 1.8. Summit Cave
Short And Sweet Trad 35m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** Trojan Trad 72m 5 1.8. Summit Cave
Directissima Trad 98m 1.9. Desperation Wall
* Blabbermouth VS Trad 22m 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Felp II Trad 300m 1.13. West Face
13 R Tribulation Trad 25m 1.12. Shadow Glen
14 Monkey Swallows The Universe Mixed 15m, 2 1.1. Slider Wall
Heliosphere Sport 35m 1.3. Celestial Wall
The Court Jester p1 Trad 15m 1.5. Halfway House
Vagabond Trad 150m 1.9. Desperation Wall
After Dinner Delight Sport 12m, 6 1.10. Candy Mountain
Banana King Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
Glove Slap Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
Escape from NEB Trad 70m 2 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Microtome Trad 100m 1.13. West Face
Rain Drops Trad 45m 1.14. South Face
14 R Vege Abattoir Trad 13m 1.12. Shadow Glen
15 * Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m 1.1. Slider Wall
unknown Trad 30m 1.1. Slider Wall
Troposphere p1 Sport 30m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Troposphere p4 Sport 25m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Lancelot Trad 90m 4 1.4. Clemency Wall
* Patience Crack Trad 86m 3 1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Overexposed Trad 120m 5 1.8. Summit Cave
** Black Angus Trad 110m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Desperation Wall Trad 130m 4 1.9. Desperation Wall
More Smart More Safe Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
The Mgical Liopleurodon Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
Vagabond Trad 35m 1.12. Shadow Glen
16 The Horse Sport 12m, 4 1.1. Slider Wall
Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1 Sport 35m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Troposphere p5 Sport 30m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Apricots Trad 28m 1.4. Clemency Wall
* Clemency Trad 230m 6 1.4. Clemency Wall
* Dreadnought Trad 380m 12 1.4. Clemency Wall
Steaming Trad 60m 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Overexposed DF Trad 1.8. Summit Cave
** Line Of Credit Sport 70m 2, 23 1.9. Desperation Wall
Fairy Floss Sport 12m, 6 1.10. Candy Mountain
** Blabbermouth Trad 200m 7 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Domestos Trad 15m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Highlander Trad 45m 1.12. Shadow Glen
17 Blowing Bubbles Sport 15m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Troposphere p2 Sport 15m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Voyager p4 Sport 30m 1.3. Celestial Wall
* Guenevere Trad 90m 3 1.4. Clemency Wall
Tested Twisticle (left) Trad 32m 1.4. Clemency Wall
Spooky House Trad 30m 1.5. Halfway House
* The Court Jester p2 Trad 20m 1.5. Halfway House
** Remains Of The Day Trad 150m 5 1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Walk the Line Sport 25m 1.8. Summit Cave
* Zeitgeist Sport 110m 3 1.9. Desperation Wall
Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
* Lichen the Candy Sport 12m, 6 1.10. Candy Mountain
Old Elvis Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
Armageddon Sport 13m, 2 1.12. Shadow Glen
On Bended Knee Trad 45m 1.14. South Face
18 Swinger Sport 19m 1.1. Slider Wall
Rattle Sport 25m 1.2. Porcelain Wall
C Section Sport 25m 1.3. Celestial Wall
** Rubicon p1 Sport 45m 1.3. Celestial Wall
* Troposphere p3 Sport 15m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Dreadnought VF Trad 75m 2 1.4. Clemency Wall
* Tested Twisticle (right) Trad 35m 1.4. Clemency Wall
* The Sword In The Stone Trad 25m 1.5. Halfway House
Insurrection Sport 25m, 7 1.6. Carborundum Wall
** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2 Sport 15m 1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II DF Trad 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6 1.8. Summit Cave
* Tell Him He's Dreaming Trad 29m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Charlie Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
Cookie Monster Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Candy Mountain
One Eyed Wanderer Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
** Tommy Dodd Trad 100m 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Flame 'n' Sparks Trad 25m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Liquid Pleasures Trad 15m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Peeping Tom Trad 8m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Better You Than Me Trad 50m 1.14. South Face
19 * Bite My Shiny, Metal Ass Sport 18m 1.1. Slider Wall
Something About Sandy Sport 13m, 5 1.1. Slider Wall
Rescision Sport 15m 1.3. Celestial Wall
** Divergence Trad 20m 1.4. Clemency Wall
Rocketsauce Sport 12m 1.5. Halfway House
Tenacious D Sport 12m 1.5. Halfway House
Ideas Man Trad 30m 1.9. Desperation Wall
* Ishoni Trad 35m 1.9. Desperation Wall
Papa Smurf Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
** Sunburnt Buttress Trad 190m 6 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
20 * Branigan's Law Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Slider Wall
** Alienation Trad 18m 1.4. Clemency Wall
** Hungry Beast Sport 15m 1.5. Halfway House
Banished For Infidelity Sport 170m 6 1.6. Carborundum Wall
First Contact Sport 20m, 7 1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Into Darkness Sport 18m, 7 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Leaving On A Jet Plane Sport 25m, 8 1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Nine Month Sojourn Sport 25m, 8 1.6. Carborundum Wall
*** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1 Sport 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
Staple It Together Sport 27m 1.8. Summit Cave
Happy Pants Sport 12m 1.10. Candy Mountain
* Sideshow Bob Trad 250m 8 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
** The Chris Mann Route Trad 98m 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Brick Boxes Sport 20m, 4 1.12. Shadow Glen
* The Black Planet Sport 20m, 4 1.12. Shadow Glen
16 to 21 Phoenix Sport 70m 3, 21 1.6. Carborundum Wall
21 A Shadow So Huge Sport 8m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Overseer Sport 27m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Pigsy Sport 12m 1.1. Slider Wall
* The Most Monstrous Monster Sport 13m 1.1. Slider Wall
* The Robot Devil Sport 15m 1.1. Slider Wall
Floater Mixed 20m, 7 1.2. Porcelain Wall
* Aphelion p2 Sport 12m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Cunningly Deceptive Mixed 25m, 2 1.5. Halfway House
** Airtime Over Pumicestone Trad 250m 6 1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Every Day I Start To Ooze Trad 18m 1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Insurrection VS Sport 28m, 8 1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m 1.8. Summit Cave
Big Empty p2 Sport 1m 1.8. Summit Cave
Ronald Muck Trad 45m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** Straight to the Pool Room Trad 30m 1.9. Desperation Wall
** El Scorcho Trad 110m 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
** Ross Miller Route Trad 190m 8 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Suburban Sprawl Variant Trad 15m 1.12. Shadow Glen
22 * Outrageous Coincidences Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Slider Wall
Procrastinator Sport 17m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Procrastislider Sport 16m 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Slider Sport 16m, 7 1.1. Slider Wall
What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Slider Wall
Ripple Sport 23m, 7 1.2. Porcelain Wall
*** Aphelion p3 Sport 30m 1.3. Celestial Wall
* Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3 Sport 10m 1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Latitudes Sport 35m 1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Rubicon p2 Sport 30m 1.3. Celestial Wall
* Vernal Equinox Sport 28m 1.3. Celestial Wall
** Voyager p2 Sport 12m 1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Caritas Sport 18m 1.4. Clemency Wall
The Mace Trad 18m 1.4. Clemency Wall
* I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
** Maponus p1 Trad 12m 1.5. Halfway House
*** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
** Circlet Sport 16m 1.8. Summit Cave
* Crikey Sport 10m, 4 1.8. Summit Cave
** Four Seasons Sport 28m 1.8. Summit Cave
* Kitsch Sport 9m 1.12. Shadow Glen
Suburban Sprawl Trad 15m 1.12. Shadow Glen
22 R Emu-less Trad 12m 1.5. Halfway House
23 * Magictrip Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Slider Wall
** Monkey Magic Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Procrastisquealer Sport 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Squealer Sport 18m, 6 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Squealer (pre 2005) Sport 21m 1.1. Slider Wall
* The Minx And The Slug Sport 12m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Tripitaka Sport 14m 1.1. Slider Wall
Prairie Doggin Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Porcelain Wall
** Voyager p3 Sport 100m 1.3. Celestial Wall
Sent From Above Sport 12m 1.4. Clemency Wall
** Bargearse Sport 15m 1.5. Halfway House
* Gut Punch The Budda Sport 12m 1.5. Halfway House
** Maponus p2 Sport 25m 1.5. Halfway House
* Liquid Skin Trad 18m 1.6. Carborundum Wall
Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1 Sport 22m 1.8. Summit Cave
** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 Sport 13m 1.8. Summit Cave
* No Membership Required Sport 10m, 4 1.8. Summit Cave
* Puniverse Sport 6m, 3 1.8. Summit Cave
** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m 1.8. Summit Cave
** Pool Room JSV (Jousting Sticks Variant) Trad 8m 1.9. Desperation Wall
The Kloske Conection Mixed 55m 2, 7 1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Brit Pop Trad 15m 1.12. Shadow Glen
24 ** Doctor Pinocchio Sport 20m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Even Monsters Can Be People Sport 14m, 7 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Howler Sport 16m, 5 1.1. Slider Wall
* Monster Master (link up) Sport 20m 1.1. Slider Wall
Overseer RHV Sport 30m 1.1. Slider Wall
* Procrastihowler Sport 20m 1.1. Slider Wall
** The Vampire Master Sport 10m 1.1. Slider Wall
Dumptruck Sport 12m, 6 1.2. Porcelain Wall
* Zenith Sport 25m, 8 1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Black Op's Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
Storm Watch Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
*** The Elite Republican Guard Sport 15m 1.5. Halfway House
*** Voluptuous Sport 11m 1.5. Halfway House
* Littlebro Sport 9m, 4 1.8. Summit Cave
** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
** One Alien, four people and a tree Sport 8m, 4 1.8. Summit Cave
** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black Trad 80m 3 1.8. Summit Cave
Raptures Trad 60m 3 1.8. Summit Cave
Somebody Else's Weirdo Sport 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
* Strange Fruit Sport 25m 1.8. Summit Cave
25 ** Geppetto Sport 30m 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Howler VF Sport 16m 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Madder Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Slider Wall
** The Final Piece Sport 17m, 6 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Wailer Sport 18m, 4 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Wowler Sport 18m, 5 1.1. Slider Wall
** Dagda Sport 25m 1.5. Halfway House
** Love, Honour and Belay Sport 16m, 6 1.5. Halfway House
Switch Blade Honey Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
*** Back in Black Trad 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m 1.8. Summit Cave
** High Definition Sport 20m, 6 1.8. Summit Cave
* Hyperballad Sport 15m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** Tangled Up In Blue p1 Sport 30m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** Tangled Up In Blue p2 Sport 30m 1.8. Summit Cave
Sweet Flower Girl Trad 10m 1.12. Shadow Glen
26 *** Pinocchio's Extension Sport 28m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Procrastiwailer Sport 23m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Pigs In Space Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
Achilles Sport 10m 1.8. Summit Cave
*** In Between Dreams Sport 25m 1.8. Summit Cave
V6 ** Watermark Boulder 8m 1.1. Slider Wall
27 *** Chain Reaction Sport 30m 1.1. Slider Wall
*** Hybrid Vigour Sport 24m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Vigorous Procrastination Sport 1.1. Slider Wall
You win some you lose some Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Slider Wall
*** The Simon Vos Memorial Sport 18m 1.4. Clemency Wall
** DV8 Sport 30m 1.5. Halfway House
*** The Bends Sport 15m 1.8. Summit Cave
28 *** The Expedition Sport 40m, 24 1.1. Slider Wall
** The Forty Metre Mile Sport 38m 1.1. Slider Wall
** Massive Attack Trad 28m 2 1.8. Summit Cave
** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6 1.8. Summit Cave
27 to 29 * Groundhog Day Sport 16m 1.8. Summit Cave
29 *** Departures Sport 42m, 25 1.1. Slider Wall
Pandora Sport 42m, 25 1.1. Slider Wall
*** The Beast from the East Sport 15m 1.8. Summit Cave
30 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun Sport 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
30 to 33 The Cave 3 project (Asimov) (OPEN) Mixed Project 8m, 7 1.7. Caves Route Sector
? (Project) Unknown 12m 1.2. Porcelain Wall
(Link Project - LC) Sport Project 1.8. Summit Cave
(The Big Roof Project - Lee) Sport Project 20m 1.8. Summit Cave
Massive Attack p2 Sport Project 1.8. Summit Cave