Area Guide for Mt Tibrogargan

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: , 2006

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: , 1999

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright, Peta Barrett,

Monkey Magic

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick,

Magictrip

A link-up

FA: , 2007

Tripitaka

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal, 2004

The Minx And The Slug

Reversy-traversy

Start: At Something about Sandy

FA: , 2007

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Monster Master (link up)

A link up.

Start: Up SANM

FA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2007

Such A Nice Monster

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

FA: G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson, 2004

The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Even Monsters Can Be People

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

FA: Ross Ferguson,

The Vampire Master

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

FA: Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: , 2007

Outrageous Coincidences

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble,

Watermark

FA: Gareth Llewellin,

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

Procrastislider

A link-up

FA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2007

Procrastihowler

A link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

Procrastiwailer

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

Vigorous Procrastination

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

The Forty Metre Mile

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes, 2006

The Expedition

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2009

FA: , 2009

Departures

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: Ross Ferguson, Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: , 2008

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

Squealer

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the frst raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Squealer (pre 2005)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Madder

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Wowler (Wailer into Howler)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Wailer

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Wowler is a variant which heads L after the second last bolt, finishing up 'Howler' clipping its last bolt.

Start: Start up 'Howler' heading R after the first bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

Chain Reaction

Wailer into Dr Pinocchio into The Overseer. Classic pumper!

Hybrid Vigour

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

The Final Piece

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Geppetto(Final Piece into Overseer)

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

Pinocchio's Extension

Doctor Pinocchio into The overseer. Pumper.

Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

FA: , 2006

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan and Natalie,

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel,

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

Start about 30 metres to the west of the climbers access track. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Troposphere p3

This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

FFA: Phil box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name.

Start: At the top of pitch 1 of 'Troposphere'

FA: Phil Box, JJ O'Brien, 2007

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

Up the slab passing about ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

Zenith

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

Vernal Equinox

The line of 11 FH's directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

Latitudes

A long, exciting pitch, and probably a bit stiff for 21, but we don't want to have every route graded 22.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Lee Cujes,

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'.

1. 35m (16) At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L.

2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge.

3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

Voyager p3

All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.

1. 35m (16) First pitch as for 'Aphelion'.

2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.

3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it\'s a tricky little bouldering sequence.

4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to 'Halfway House' terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of 'Aphelion' and rap with two 60 metre ropes.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Cam Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

Aphelion p3

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

Rubicon p1

Start: 10m L, below first FH. Marked 'R'.

1. 45m (18) 12 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2004

Rubicon p2

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box,

Clemency

Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground).

3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

6. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

7. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FFA: Unknown.,

FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

The Mace

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box, Lee Skidmore, 2002

Alienation

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2002

Divergence

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2002

FA: Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Tested Twisticle (right)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2005

The Simon Vos Memorial

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders, 2006

Caritas

FA: Lee Skidmore Phil Box, 2004

Guenevere

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, Samantha Coles, 2003

Dreadnought

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1970

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

The Court Jester p2

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003

Gut Punch The Budda

Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

Maponus p1

1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003

The Sword In The Stone

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Dagda

Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Voluptuous

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

Bargearse

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009

The Elite Republican Guard

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes,

Hungry Beast

FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009

Love, Honour and Belay

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009

I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me

The bolted orange corner.

FA: Pat Daly, 2004

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,

Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,

DV8

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Black Op's

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn,

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

Every Day I Start To Ooze

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Often wet.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Liquid Skin

Start: 3m right of Patience Crack. Often wet.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (both led), 2006

Patience Crack VS

Left at the chimney 10m up.

Patience Crack

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: 8m R of Carborundum Chimney at a big tree.

This is a great, well-protected route.

1. 40m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock. From here, there are two options. 1. Trend L and up to ledge then continue up and R for 18m to base of crack. 2. Continue directly up through the half-chimney.

2. 24m (13) Follow the obvious crack straight up, by layback, bridging and wall climbing. Gain stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree.

3. 22m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge and TB. Up easy rock and some scree, then out R to join the Caves Route.

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, Woody Milroy, 1966

Carborundum Chimney

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

2. 25m Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

3. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

4. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

5. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the 'Caves Route' above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit.

FA: Neill Lamb, Mark Andrews, 1955

Remains Of The Day

First bolted route as the track begins to dip.

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, this route should remain off limits from August - November.

1. 20m (17)

2. 28m (15)

3. 28m (16)

4. 30m (16)

5. 30m (13)

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Bill Strachan, 2007

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (17) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting. Can be climbed as a single pitch by lowering off the anchors of First Contact, or otherwise scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor at the belay.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at half height. Mind the choss just before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some interesting rock to amazing roof, ease around corner to be confronted with some delicate manoeuvers to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge (alternatively, this pitch goes direct through the roof at 24).

4. 35m (17) Wanders right of the belay above the lip of the cave, up steep gully and skirt under overhang and continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right, up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rapped by following the hangers.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the less than inspiring rock. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

FFA: , 2011

FA: Phil Box, Jay McGechan, Steve Peckman., 2011

5m L of Banished For Infidelity and first route with black hangers. 7 FHs, lower-off.

Into Darkness

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

FA: John J O'Brien, Lee Cujes, 2013

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

Insurrection VS

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

Leaving On A Jet Plane

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

Bugger all gear. Dangerous.

Airtime Over Pumicestone

Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens.

1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

2. 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L.

4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

FA: Lee Cujes (1, 2, 4), Phil Box (3, 6), 2003

Caves Route

Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB.

Start: 20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.

1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R.

3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again.

4. 150m (4) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to 'Trojan', then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge.

This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.

FA: Bert Salmon, 1926

This is the alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney if you want to reach the north-east shoulder to climb to the summit. Starting where the track meets the rock at the half-way scrub scramble the small gully and then traverse right, passing the start of "Short and Sweet" until you are on the shoulder. The traverse is easy but needs to be completed on an exposed 45° slab.

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

Tangled Up In Blue p1

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

Tangled Up In Blue p2

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

Massive Attack

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

Back in Black

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

Out Of The Blue And Into The Black

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins,

Strange Fruit

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Punk's Not Dead

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

Four Seasons

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

Trojan

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 1966

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin,

The Bends

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

The Beast from the East

FA: A.Donoghue,

A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Hyperballad

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Morning of the Earth

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

Bird Of Prey p1

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Bird of Prey p2

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

FA: Gareth and Ross,

Walk the Line

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1

FA: Gareth?,

My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2

FA: Gareth?,

Seven Year Itch

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Puniverse

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

One Alien, four people and a tree

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

Line Of Credit

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station.

2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station.

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.

FA: Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman, 2004

Straight to the Pool Room

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

Pool Room JSV (Jousting Sticks Variant)

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

Tell Him He's Dreaming

FA: G.Llewellin B. Strachan, 2007

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and anchor.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Ben Carter, 2013

Zeitgeist

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

3. 45m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble up a few metres into Cave 3, then down and L into the large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Descent via the 'Caves Route' consists of easy scrambling with some optional rapping for the steeper sections.

FA: David & Ruth Reeve and a host of helpers, 2010

Black Angus

FA: Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson, 2008

Black Orpheus

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

1. 20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

2. 45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.

3. 40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.

4. 15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

FA: Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers, 1969

Sideshow Bob

Start 10m L of 'The North-East Buttress'. Marked "Sbo".

FA: Wayne Meith, A. Anderson, 2005

Start at "NEB" mark.

FA: Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy, 1965

Blabbermouth

Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.

1. 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.

2. 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

3. 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).

4. 20m (13) Straight up past 5 BRs.

5. 28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).

6. 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

7. 20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

Rack: to #3 friend.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Blabbermouth VS

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2005

Sunburnt Buttress

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

El Scorcho

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2005

Tommy Dodd

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

The Chris Mann Route

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

FA: ross ferguson gareth llewelyn,

Brick Boxes

Start 10m R of 'Highlander'.

Solo up the moderately difficult slab to 2 FHs at the same (ridiculously high!) height. Clip the L FH then trend L clipping 2 more FHs. After the 3rd FH head sharply R to the 4th and final FH, then straight up to DBB shared with 'The Black Planet'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow, 1996

Start at the 'Brick Boxes' DBB.

Continue up wall on marginal protection to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow, 1996

The Black Planet

Start as for 'Brick Boxes'.

On (finally!) reaching the 2 FHs, clip the R one and follow the line of 3 more FHs to the DBB shared with 'Brick Boxes'. Crux is at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1996

Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'.

Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' DBB. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR. Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

FA: Ana Greer, Neil Monteith, 1996