Mt Beerwah Guide

The proud right-trending arch/roof starting at the far left of the crag. Place gear in the crack on the left of the climb all the way to the anchors. Plenty to choose from. Avoid using any bolts. The FA used a full set of cams from micro to #6, plus some nuts and hexes, but you might be braver. Crux is the last few metres. Bolted top anchor. Rap or belay down to the 1st Maiden Voyage anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the left wall and follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to just right of the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the headwall, avoiding the right wall if possible or the grade drops significantly. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then slightle left and up to the right side of the chimney. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

Free soloed and downclimbed gingerly in hiking boots upon discovery of the area. First pitch is an easy beginner lead climb.

Pitch 1 (12). Either climb straight up the runnel to 1st belay/rap anchors using trad gear, or climb a metre or so left of the runnel using bolts to anchor. 4 bolts.

Pitch 2 (16). Directly up to top anchors. 3 bolts.

Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or just rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Starts at the 1st anchors of MV. Up and veer right, then follow bolts up to DBPG anchors. Fun, slabby mental game. Descend as per DBPG.

Fun, bouldery 2nd pitch and cruxy start to 3rd.

P1 - 12, 30m Climb Needles or Maiden Voyage to the first belay station. Stay off the flora.

P2 - 18, 30m Enter the Secret Garden, following the left line 10m up to the 1st boulder move, placing gear on the left if you wish. 1st bolt is just below the boulder. Climb up and rightward to the anchors.

P3 - 22, 30m Climb the stiff boulder directly on it's left. Going around to the right reduces the grade to 15. Follow the spaced, disguised bolts up easy contour rightward to the top anchors, shared with Quandary and others.

Descend via Quandary.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Maiden Voyage.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Meh. Shares the Meh anchors.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of So Close. Shares the Just Enough anchors on the ledge to the right.

Runs up the chimney to the right of Round the Bend. When above the chimney, stick to the slabby slide all the way to the anchors. If you touch either side with your hands or feet, it reduces to a 12.

Fun multi pitch climb for newbies or oldies alike.

P1 (14 or 16) Either climb Round The Bend or Just Enough up to the Secret Garden. 4 to 6 bolts, depending which route you climb as a first pitch.

P2 (17) Follow 8 bolts up to the shaded belay station. Crux is half way up; try not to cheat by going left or right or it becomes a 15.

P3 (15) Cross the rocky ledge to the right side, then follow disguised bolts up, trending right all the way to the anchors. 7 bolts.

Descend as per Quandary.

Update Sept 2023: The bolts no longer appear to be disguised. The camouflage used appears to have washed/worn off.

Starts to the right of the Just Enough chimney.

Go directly up the crux, at half way, or it becomes a 15.

60m rope will get you near to the bottom and scramble the remaining few metres. Tie a stopper knot.

Update: The FA and co found a bolt on this route with glue soft, likely due to the epoxy not mixing evenly due to being at the end of the tube. So we checked every bolt at the crag again and this was the only bad one. We believe the rain must have washed it out, thus revealing its condition now and not earlier. We chopped it. It's a bit runout now at that point, but it is above the crux on easier climbing and near the top with no ground fall. Just wanted to give you a headsup before you climb it. When we get around to replacing the bolt we'll remove this update.

Starts to the right of Blow harder.

Be careful of the Monkey Rope vines. The flora here are precious, so please take care.

Descend via Blow Harder.

Fun climb at the grade with enough to keep you guessing, including where the bolts are.

P1 17/18, 30m Start at either Blow Harder or Pass the Brush. 7 bolts if climbing Blow Harder.

P2 17, 28m Follow the bolts up and rightward to anchors. 7 bolts. Climbs very close to Soiled Plans in places.

P3 17/16, 27m Choose either the LHV or RHV. Both fun and contrasting. Don't touch the loose rock on the LHV. 8 bolts on LHV.

Descent: Rap the RHV of the 3rd pitch. Then rap the 1st two pitches of Soiled Plans. Top 2 pitches are slight leftward abseiling so take care. Don't trample the flora, especially the Monkey Rope on the bottom pitch of Soiled Plans.

Arguably the funnest multi pitch sport climb at the crag.

Starts to the right of Pass the Brush, up the groove under the trees. There are practice bolts and anchors in this groove to hone your lead and multi skills, while being in all day shade.

P1 17, 30m Straight up the groove, past the two sets of training anchors, then straight up.

P2 18, 30m Straight up, then follow the shiny bolts that veer off right and around the corner then up rightward between the trunks of a small, bifurcated tree. If you're following disguised bolts, you're on Quandary. However, just before the 2nd bush that you would normally climb below and around rightward, there is a steep, fun grade 21 variant on the left with disguised bolts (so you know it's different) that leads to a separate set of anchors. If following this variant, you'll end up climbing the RHV of the 3rd pitch of Quandary.

P3 21, 30m Straight up the flat wall. If you veer off the flat wall, you bring it down to an 18. Then straight up the grippy slab to the top.

Descend as per Quandary.

Super fun sport/trad/adventure/alpine summit route via The Secret Garden.

More info/updates to come. Some info is tentatively inserted as a guide.

The FA free soloed this while exploring the possibility but will return with a partner to gauge the length and to install anchors if need be.

Start: about 275m right of hiker's track. Possibly still marked with "GI" after 55 years?

Climb up to 2 small ledges, then delicate moves up to a ledge at the base of a corner. Up using potholes, then thin wall and layback flake lead to easy slab & tree belay (still there 55yrs later?)

Start: 3m Left of Gambier I - possibly still initialled "GII" after 55yrs?

Up 3-4m to base of crack, delicate moves up to potholes, follow crack up 6m to easy slab & tree belay (still there, 55yrs later?).

From the Organ Pipes area follow the track left. The well worn track becomes steep until an exposed move is encountered. The fall from here would be fatal. Past this move, scramble over a series of boulders and bushes until the hiker's track is rejoined.

tend left off hikers and head straight up middle of landscape.

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

An alternate finish to this route that goes north at the top (but a bit more exposed) is mapped at https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1ULqnVajNBViUxVymtbjh6jbnrcM&ll=-26.89356304264415%2C152.88713100000007&z=17

P1 A2 20m. Free to BR at 4m then thin seam running up then diag. R under arching roof, to arete. Straight up through steep bit then up corner to TBB with small foot stance.

P2 A2+ 25m Continue up corner passing 4 BR. Pass rooflet then straight up widening then narrowing crack with some looseness, to the Fireman's Hat belay (TBB).

P3 A3 20m Pass roof to R and on up thin cornern with fixed KB to negotiate another roof (2BR). Up R leaning orange line widening from beaks to medium cams, returning to beaks as it reaches the hanging TBB.

P4(?A3) 20m Continue up line a bit then veer diag. L (BR) heading for corner above roof. Up corner. A rivet (as for COD) is the last placement. Bolt and groove belay.

Note: bat hook off first FH on P4 appears blown out 17/07/2020.

50m of 4th class poo to the top.

FA Gareth Llewellin, Chris Finn, Scott Lawrence, Ray B. 05/99

Start 20m left of where the tourist track meets the beach. There is a sport route on RB's but the aid route is on (sometimes questionable) carrots. Its not unheard of for the carrots to pop so take care. Once you start the roof it is very difficult to bail. Final straightforward bail option is at the top of pitch two where a 55m rap will get you back on the ground (two 60m essential)

1. Tough layback start up the corner just right of the aid route. Up stemming corner with increasing difficulty (many ring bolts), then overhang to jug. Tricky section to a right traverse. Steep wild section leads to a rest in a sandpit. Gritty head wall section leading to the aid routes arbitrary p1 belay but it doesn’t stop here in the middle of nowhere - keep climbing ! Go left to corner, then up using holds on the left arete until possible to traverse back right onto the aid line on sandy rock, up into the bathtub ledge. Clip high vertical chain anchor. Amazing pitch of climbing with mostly stunning rock and a little sand here and there. Take 20 draws and long slings.

2. Traverse right off the ledge following a sandy break (FH) to a tricky move back left to snag the first ring bolt. Crimpy kangaroo point style climbing for a handful of bolts, then a traverse right to a hands free rest beneath the bulge. Tricky moves through the bulge to a tenuous stance. Unless your talk dyno ! Then more tricky stuff on great rock to a shake out before finale which traverses left and up to a vertical chain under main roof.

Sit start. Ends on sidepull sloper jug thing.

A traverse over to 'Tropical Strength'.

Hard at the bottom, easy at the top. Stick clip first bolt to prevent an awkward fall. Trend past 3 RBs to a DBB on a nice Beerwah slab.

Thought-provoking bottom section. Stick clip first bolt to protect tricky moves off the ground (potential for awkward fall). A straight forward climb past 3 bolts to a DBB anchor.

A traverse from 'Bitten', back to 'Low Irritant'.

5m right of last bolted route "Bug off". Climbs past dodgy flake to high pockets, finishing at a tree belay on a vegetated ledge.

Better gear and climbing than it seems from the ground. Take a size 2 & 3 camalot to protect top section, and a sling on a low knobby jug protects the main climbing.

Start is found by walking 50 m past mosquito wall. Track heads away from apron and when it ascends back up to rock apron walk left up tongue of vegetation to gain rock.

Quite the adventure was had on the first ascent. Ground up on sight, with a 10 meter slide on the descent by Tony Barten which was fielded by Hamish Ousby who then joined in untill the slide was arrested. (Note, descent is slippery in the rain.)

1 80m. 4 runners

Startup slab towards bushes. Break out left to avoid the bushy gully. Up steepening slab. Boldly looking for runners, at about 30 meters a runner appears. Continue straight up on crossly flakes and nonexistent foot smears for a bit. When all looks, bad remember the rule, climbers do not cry. Continue towards vegetated ledge, moving left at last instance, crossing water polished holds to gain vegetated ledge. Runners are noticeably lacking. Belay on nonexistent gear above vegetation.

2 30m

Move belay up to next island of vegetation. Easy climbing, no runners, no bolts, no belay, no fun.

3 55m.

Up the water polished slab moving left to bottom of crack. Gently up start of crack passing block balancing in bush. Try not to let it drop on your belayer on the imaginary belay below. The crack offers up a good runner above the block just as the the rock gets friable. A few jams, some lay backing, some edging gets you well above your runner and into the crux. Remember the rule, climbers do not cry! Struggle up the off widthy, chimney, thrutchy crack thing, for a bit until a handy chock stone presents itself which you can sling. Unfortunately, the top of said chock stone is just sitting there waiting to be dropped on the belayer on the imaginary belay. Remember Climbers DON’T CRY. Once past this continue up to second tree where a bomb proof runner was excavated from the dirt filled crack. You will see why you do not belay at first tree.

4 45m.

Up crack on the left with a good runner. Think its over. Ha! Move up slabs till able to place a runner. Now continue up the slab. It gets a bit thin, friable and that runner you thought was so good before now gets hard to see as it fades into the distance. Remember that rule from the previous pitches? Continue onwards. Soon the angle eases, the holds get better the climb ends. The runners still do not appear. To get off walk bush bash up ridge above till tourist track is gained.

It is actually quite good.

Start 20m right of Adventure Gardeners

Scramble up to right hand side of vegetated ledge, then scramble left to slab with lots of peeled flakes.

Named in honor of Mr Ousbys massive bruised buttocks obtained from a 8 meter fall on the first attempt at the route. Lovely purple blue and yellow. A fantastic effort by Hamish in establishing this route ground up on sight, placing bolts whilst hanging on for life. Destined to be a mega classic test route. Can be a bit run out in places.

1.55m Start is a very tenuous slab so it may be best to stick clip the first bolt.

Smear and edge up slab always trending slightly left. Passing 5 bolts to DB belay.

2 40m

Continue up and left of vegetation to steepening buttress above, move diagonally left past bolt then up crack and corner till able to step left to DB belay

3 55m

Climb right over crack to gain slab on steep buttress. Place a cam blindly in crack on left. Get your belayer to confirm that it is placed well.(this will let you know if you are good friends.) Up wards passing 4 bolts and gear till able to pull into cave at end of pitch. Room for 2 to bivy if your belayer proved there friendship earlier!

4 10m

Its all over. (Well sort of )

Out of cave hand traverse left for a few moves. Then up easily on loose shattered blocks.

Bush bash up hill till tourist track is met at right side of organ pipes then down the horror of the tourist track fielding questions all the way back to car

15m right of Mr. Busy on the slab. The left facing corner. Up this, continue up the line to tree belay.

About 20m right of Mr. Busy Pillar, just as the cliff-base starts to descend (towards the original start of the Alpine Route/NW Track, which is ~40m away), you can scramble up through several ledges and bushes at grade 1 or 2 to reach a large ledge system. Bushwalkers have placed tape and a track is starting to form.

Follow a track along the ledge system southwards, exposed in a couple of places, to join-up with the Alpine Route. At the junction, this alternate track is more prominent than the original Alpine Route / NW Track.

Follow the Alpine Route up to the Tourist Track.

This route is an easy solo down-climb too.

Committing start up the lefthand side of the slab to first FH at 10m. A small wire below this is possible. Balancy move to 2nd FH, up slab, passing 3rd FH, to RBs.

Up the rh side of the slab on thin holds, passing 2 fixed hangers, step up & left, using undercling, to 3rd FH on face, thin crimping to 4th FH, then easier ground to RBs.

10m down R of Summer Daze, up the crackline (small gear), past some small saplings, passing 2 carrots, continue up the slab, passing another BR, move R & up, passing another 3 BR's to TB.

3m R of Dicky Knee, up fused cracks, (hard start) passing 2 carrots, to left facing corner, then gear (hexes + cams) to TB.

3m R of Hoover's Knee, start below FH (secure belayer), up fused crackline, past the FH & 3 carrots, then small gear past left facing corner, to TB.

Starts 60m down past the Mr.Busy pillar. About 15m below right of Reflections.

This route has some poor rock and an abundance of loose blocks and detached flakes due constant north sun exposure. The crux at 30m on first pitch is protected by a single carrot bolt and the belay consists of 2 FH. The second belay is a rusty piton + gear in the crack behind.

The whole route can be rapped, but the tape on the anchors will need replacing. A better option is to exit to the tourist track = an easy scramble or a short bush-bash through thick scrub on the right will lead to the faint knob track.

You will need 2x60m ropes to rap this route. Can be lead on a single rope, if walking off.

Starts 60m right of Mr. Busy Pillar, 2m right of Break of Noon at the half chimney (S26 53.768 E152 52.870) and it's the easiest route to the summit from the west side.

Originally on FA, this route was climbed on trad gear for 3 pitches at grade 10, straight up on clean rock from the chimney at the start. Later on, several bushwalkers have bypassed the roped section on the right and placed tape on trees to mark the way. Now is a defined route. Past the initial bypass, the track rejoins the original route and is well worn all the way to the tourist track. A nice steep hike if compared to the horrendous scrub bash of the first ascent. Some isolated sections are still hard (about grade 5) and the rock can be friable and slippery.

1. 110m in 3 pitches of soft rock grade 6 to 10 easy ascending traverse starting through the chimney of a leaning pillar (crux), up and to the right, to a final belay at S26,89742, E152,88223.

2. Pack ropes and gear and begin a nasty steep bush-bash, left along the base of the lower shoulder on mank until flat clean rock is reached (the bivouac S26,89745, E152,88183).

3. From here head up to the summit on easier terrain following the northern base of the lower peak (the knob), through bush until you join the hiking route. From here you can reach the summit in 5 min.

2016 route description: 230m from the base of the mountain to the top of the shoulder.

Start: Starts about 400m R of Mr Busy pillar near the southern end of the west wall. The beginning of the route is painted with a very small WB mark. Up zigzagging over easy rock for 70m or so and bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock to find the line of least resistance to reach the big ledge below the rock face (this is the ledge that serves the Underworld routes). Walk to the right at the end of the ledge, the first pitch was marked with a white arrow but we think is now worn off.

1. 30m Up a gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the left, walk up and right for about 20m, then up into another vegetated ledge to the base of a clean rock face with a tight chimney on the right and a gully on the left. A distinctive feature here is a white triangle on the rock just few metres above. Tree Belay.

2. 30m Climb the gully on the left up to a ledge then keep on going up a chimney with a hard move past a slabby wedged block to a bulge. Belay on gear below the overhangs (2 big hexes and a #4 cam).

3. 10m Traverse left past a rusty piton and downclimb with care to a gum tree at the base of the main chimney leading to Shell Rock. Belay from the gum tree. Short pitch to avoid rope drag.

4. 20m Up the dirty small chimney with hard moves below a twin groove gully. Tree and gear belay.

5. 29m Up the left groove (choss and mud), cross over and in through the front door of Shell Rock. Belay slinging doors and features.

6. 20m Out the back door of Shell Rock then up and into a broken chimney and slightly right on thin slabs to a ledge and Belay Chains.

From here bush-bash for another 20m or so to the top of Beerwah west shoulder and walk along the ridge, skirting left around the knob and across to the hikers route. The old description can be found on the Qurank guide.

Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

An almost clean aid route. Start at obvious corner capped by roofs. Start up corner. Traverse straight L under the daunting roof and finish up short corner (BR) to the top. Bring a wide range of gear including big SLCDs and lots of small wires. No pins required. The rock is fairly hollow - beware.

Start as for Lost World corner. Up corner to below first roof. Traverse R under roof (#4 SLCD) to crux layback from horizontal to vertical crack. Up easy finger crack above to scree slope and TB.

Start in front of tree at base. Up wall, diagonally L to pocket and FH. Hard move follows to #4 SLCD placement. Up bulging wall above (two-finger pocket) to jug and FH. Crimp up to stance and last FH. Up big pockets on R to slab and chain belay.

Start as for Satan Spawn. Up wall, diagonally R past FH to scoop. Up wall above (SLCDs/wires) to a stance and BR. A reach move to small crack (SLCD) and slab up to the L to chain belay of SS.

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

The crack corner system on the left end of wall.

Start at flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Fairly straight up passing four ring bolts and optional gear (nuts, small hexes) for runouts in easy sections. Use the new anchor, but the old anchor has been left as requested by Wayne for a little bit of history - this is one of the anchors that hadn't completely rusted away!

Start at small featured groove and head up and slightly right passing four rings bolts and optional gear (nuts and small hexes) in the easy runouts. No longer joins No Honk but has it's own anchors. (For an easy multipitch, continue up right to the anchors of No Honk and do its pitch 2)

1. 32m (17) Follow line of 8 ring bolts to chains on spacious ledge. A one move wonder, the rest of the climb is fairly easy.

2. 25m (13) 4 carrot bolts + trad. Was bolted on lead. Supplement line of bolts with small to medium hexes.

The bolted corner to the right of where the approach track meets the face. Easy scramble past 2 bolts, then things get a bit more serious. Work your way up the corner to DBB above. There is an optional cam placement between the 4th and 5th bolt (yellow alien) but the climbing here is easy.

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow ringbolts to DBB. Fun, thought provoking moves. There is an optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt but the climbing here is easy.

1. 30m (16) Was originally bolted on lead. Pass 4 ring bolts, then some runouts and gear to chains (Medium to large nuts/cams).

2. 22m (13) Was originally bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 ring bolts to chains.

3. -m (-) project.

Straight up to chains. (Yes, the second bolt of this and Excellent are very close, this may be fixed soon)

Great moves for the grade. Climb to high first bolt and up face to faint corner and DBB above. Quite runout at the end, take care, but easier climbing.

Follow line to DBB under roof. Fun move off last bolt.

Left-hand extension to "White Castle". Step left at the anchors of White Castle and pull the rooflet

Right-hand extension to "White Castle". Punchy move through the rooflet past 2 bolts gets you to new anchors. Something a little harder at Wayne's World - Grade needs confirmation

Start 4m to the right of White Castle. Stay left of the ledge and arete up top to finish at anchors below the rooflet.

Climb line to chains behind the small tree, keeping bolts on your right. (If the bolts are on your left it is only a 16).

Blast up the mossy crack then straight up the thin face as the crack trends left. finished at DBB below the second pitch of We're not Worthy. Great at the grade.

Start: Crack line left of We're Not Worthy.

You will need to trail a rope to get off this one.

1. 23m (16) Hard start to RB, then follow left trending line to chains of Party On Dude. 5 ringbolts. (Will get its own anchor soon)

2. 35m (16) (5x carrots) Cruxy off the belay then at the 3rd bolt climb leftwards and up to pick up the line of left trending bolts to chains. Keep to the left of the small grassy bush near the top. Easy climbing in top section. 2x60m ropes will get you down in a single rap.

3. Alternate Pitch 2 20m (16) 6x carrots. For those of you who don't want to trail a rope, start as original then at the 3rd bolt head straight up to chains. (Mar 2020: rusted anchors were replaced.) (NB: A single 80m rope will get you back down the alternate route, with rope stretch.)

The last route, in the trees, before the ground drops down. Straight up then keep overhang on your right, continue onto chains.

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

3 bolts to DBB below roof.

1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Carrots. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

2. -m (-) project...

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Carrots. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots. Mar 2020 anchors replaced.

2. -m (-) project...

Hard start then easy climbing to fun top section. Start a couple of meters right of the "GW" mark. Up to carrot, then climb continues up and left joining Gas Works. 5 carrots. Mar 2020 anchors replaced.

The corner on the right hand side of Wayne's World.

Start: Just left of previous climb.

Variant finish of The Legend of the Barbed Wire Banshee linking to Shell Rock and finishing up West Beerwah final pitch to chains, for cleaner climbing. After completing pitch 7 of Banshee, climb the steep tree filled gully to the back door of Shell Rock with two sets of old chains. Continue up as per last pitch of West Beerwah to rap chains then scramble up through thick scrub to the top of the shoulder.

This route climbs the south-west corner to the top of the shoulder, directly up through a cave and long chimney. The climb is long, the rock surprisingly good and the features vary from pitch to pitch to keep things very interesting although it has a fair bit of shrubs and scrub to negotiate. It has few isolated 16 moves and one hard cave exit move with some runouts. P1 - 7: C. Brazzelli, B. Cobb in April 2015. P8 - 11:D. Luton, R. Denny in April 2016/

APPROACH: The route starts few metres left of Burnt Cookies and The Nut, marked 'TN', at Wayne's World left end.

Locate the start 3m left of BC and start the bushy scramble ascending left and occasional zig zag to LLR until reaching clear rock at the end of the terrace/ledge and the beginning of the proper climb. This pitch is similar to the lower Caves Route of Tibro.

From a split corner/flake climb up to ledge staying left of a big white overhanging roof cap. Up easy slab sections to cave. Top belay in upper-right end of cave on good gear.

Climb out of the right side of the cave with an overhanging move on good holds and keep scrambling up and right slabby sections to find the base of a long chimney chocked with debris and vegetation, hidden behind a corner ledge on the RHS.

A long chimney that gets gradually narrow, runout and cruxy at the top. Ends into a small cave/groove. An overhanging move off the ground from the cave the cave will set you on a low angle dirt filled crack leading to chimney above. Avoid the chimney and head out right above cave across bulging face, good pro in small horizontal slot, trending right and up, increasingly runout to series of ledges, go to 2nd ledge up and a good belay tree at 27m.

Up from belay about 10m to ledge at base of bare rock face, go right a few meters, cam in horizontal crack, bring second up here, then traversing right, drop down into a chimney and keep going right and up across chimney about 15m to belay tree and tree lined shelf, might be ugly to retreat from here. Beyond the right end of the shelf, there's a sheer face dropping towards the South East, no route that way.

Pack rope and scramble up a steep bushy gully ending in a cul-de-sac of rockfaces. Rope up in awkward location, starting up arete on left then straight up over belay and up eventually to find ledge and small gum tree for belay.

Pack rope and bulldoze up narrowing gully with thick scrub and rock faces either side, gully tops out on ridge, cliff edge on the right drops down to a bushy terrace/ramp about 50m below. Keep going straight to the summit of the Western shoulder.

The variation of proceeding towards shell rock is a better variant and a cleaner finish of the route.

This is a good route linking the base of Banshee long chimney with the lower Cyclop cave, in an airy diagonal traverse on the right. The first 20m are easy climbing with 4 good placements, passing a carrot bolt. The mid section (crux) is exposed, extremely thin and runout. Below the cave the route gets easier but long runouts are unavoidable. The Cyclop cave offers also a sheltered bivouac if needed.

Start from a point a little to the right of a series of overhangs, slightly behind a prominent dead tree at the left hand end of the south wall. This climb is a direst route to the lower shoulder. From the start, an ascending traverse left is made to a large veranda. Climb the corner to the left of the ledge. An awkward overhang is surmounted and the nose of the buttress circumvented. A steep wall then leads to a broad sloping ledge, above this climb the wall to a timbered shelf. From this point, ascend a series of easy slabs in the direction of the now visible 'Garden of Eden' cave. Continue on a series of steep holdless slabs leading to the cave. Traverse from the cave on steep slabs to the left into a small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Ascend a steep gully to Shell Rock (a prominent outcrop with a hold through the centre). A scramble over easier ground leads to the shoulder.

This route is a great adventure climb starting in Waynes World and passing through the South Face via a large cave, to the West shoulder. The cave is probably the "Garden of Eden" described in the 1960’s route Pilgrims Progress. From there you follow the old route to the shoulder via Shell Rock. It’s a big day out so start early, take lots of water, head torches and charged phones. The route has a few vertical sections and a number of steep slabs with varied protection. Pitch 7 is particularly run out with poor protection- be aware.

This route was the result of many sessions by R. Denny, W. Kite and D. Luton through the middle of 2016. The first full ascent to the shoulder was made in November 2016- 12 hours car to car.

APPROACH: At the west end of Waynes World (S-26.89879,E+153.88150), walk further west up the slope as far as you can to reach a belay ledge at the obvious corner.

GEAR: A full set of cams, nuts, hex's and tricams plus plenty of slings. Take 2x60m ropes to allow a retreat.

1- 20m (10) Climb up the steps in the corner to a ledge then left to go around the arête. Scramble upwards along the bottom of the rock face to a tree belay.

2- 25m (13) Scramble about 10m up to next corner and belay on the large ledge. Use the vertical crack for protection and climb onto the arête to find further cracks. Second half is a bit run out to the trees on the next large ledge- keep left to avoid the large loose block.

3- 31m (12) Straight up the steep face to the left of the corner. Towards the top, step right into the corner to avoid some scrub and find the base of a bare slab. Aim for the trees at the top of the slab without much protection. A shrub well to the left can be used about halfway- long sling to minimise drag. Tree belay on small ledge.

4- 35m (10) Scramble up about 10m up and over the corner to a tree belay at the base of the next slab. Easy climbing with a few pockets for protection. Straight up then to the right of the scrub to find a tree belay in depression at the base of another slab.

5- 18m (10) Up the slab to find protection under the roof on the right hand side. Use a long sling then traverse up to the left along the base of the roof. Step onto the ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay off gear in the back of the cave.

6- 20m (13) Climb the chimney and step left to place a large hex in the narrow top section. Easy climbing up the slab trending right, but minimal protection till a corner is reached. Aim for the clump of trees on the right which has a wide ledge behind. Belay off gear and/or tree.

7- 30m (16, crux) Straight up to underside of the cave (probably the "Garden of Eden" described in Pilgrims Progress- 1960’s). Not a hard grade but it’s extremely run out with a lot of slippery lichen on a bare slab with very poor protection- use caution. Belay at the first reasonable shrub available. The cave is now a 15m scramble away. Halfway there, a ledge on the left has a large leaning block that provides a good rapping anchor- 40m to bottom of pitch. The next four pitches go the shoulder via Shell Rock following the top part of Pilgrims Progress.

8- 20m (16) From the ledge to the left of the cave, traverse left very exposed over a bare slab. It’s only this one move that’s hard- beware the hollow-sounding flake above you. Once some decent holds are found, it ease’s to more like 13 going up the small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Tree belay or use the fixed hanger.

9- 20m (-) Scramble up the steep gully then up the right side of a chimney. Keep going till the rock face becomes steep and the vertical crack is visible.

10- 20m (-) This is also pitch 9 of Legend of the Barbed Wire Banshee. Straight up the steep face on the right of the tree filled gulley to reach the 2nd set of chains just below Shell Rock cave. Take some time to enjoy views out of the cave.

11- 20m (-) Follow the last pitch of West Beerwah. Trend right towards the top then up to find the chains. A bush-bash up and over easier ground leads to the shoulder. Follow the ridge around to find the walking track.

Lhotse Flake (grade 15) - 10 pitches to summit South West Shoulder of Beerwah starting at the bottom of No Honk at Waynes World. Good protection, trad route, solid rock, getting steeper towards top, set of cams, larger hexs, nuts, rap from anywhere on a single 60, knotted ends a must, rope stretch required rapping lower 35m pitches.

1. 35m (14/15 ) Start at the initials NH, bottom of No Honk, some trad placements to join Extreme Close Up, half a dozen bolts (plates needed), rusty rap chains at 35m

2. 35m (14/15) 2nd pitch of No Honk, mixed trad with 3 or 4 bolts (plates needed) to chains at 35m

3. 30m (10) Up to terrace then left through small roof, easy going low angle straight up to DBB, dodgey shrubs for pro if required.

4. 30m (10) Easy going straight up to DBB, more dodgey shrubs for pro if required.

5. 30m (10) Out of the shrubbery on cleaner rock now, slightly left trending crackline, very grippy slab to DBB.

6. 30m (12) Straight up past left facing corner with some vegetation to DBB alcove at the base of the obvious 30m high flake (right facing corner)

7. 30m (14) Up into the right facing corner of the big flake, cams in the crackline all the way, smaller cams towards top, DBB beyond top of crackline

8. 30m (15) Getting steeper now, up through alcove/chimney then ledges and slightly left past a lone hanger (handy if wet) then DBB above on face, small ledge stance.

9. 30m (15) Cruxy move right off belay onto block 0.1 cam possible, up a bit to mid size bomber cams in crack, continue up obvious crack/runnel, then a satisfying hex placement (big one), up under headwall, a hanger on the face out left protects committing overhanging mantle move, then easy thru alcove and face to DBB, a few meters below solid little gum at the lip of the terrace, good ledge/lookout here right on the top of the main wall. Pack up the rope, scramble diagonally up left 50m heading for Shell Rock via chimney/gully to Shell Rock.

10. 25m (14) Rope up on the final pitch above Shell Rock, cams, nuts, to chains on the hollow lava tube at 25m.

Pack up gear, follow the well worn track about 50m to the western shoulder along the ridge towards the knob, then over slabs to hook up with the tourist track.

The start of this climb is about 400m to the right of Pilgrim's Progress and is supposedly marked by a large grey gum tree with a heavy top and a badly burnt base. Who knows if it's still there? Two short pitches traverse to the left and a steep 20m wall is climbed directly to a veranda of shrubbery. The climbing continues until a series of small overhangs are reached. Traverse right and then continue up the weathered walls until a short traverse left leads to the south-west shoulder.

This climb starts to the right of Wayne's World sector and meanders its way up the south wall topping out at the left shoulder of the summit. The FA's did not plan on going all the way but a lack of any real plan and sketchy lower offs meant this appeared as the only real option!

Start early, avoid rainy weather, carry head torches for all climbers, take phones and be willing to run it out.

There are probably far better equipped routes so this is not recommended unless you are up for an adventure

1. Head to Wayne's World and start approximately 30m right of "Gas Works" in what looks like a fairly good corner. Make a belay in the small tree at the top of the sloping slab. (12)

2. Head up trending right over a low jagged rocky ridge with minimal gear for another 45m to another small tree.

3. Fairly good climbing up slabs to a dirty corner for belay. (55m 8)

4. Climb through the rocks and shrubs until you get to the base of another wall (45m 4). Now walk right along the apron with a false sense of hope that you are somewhere near the summit for about 40m until you realise that things are getting steep and you should tie in again.

5. About the point where you can't walk any further east, head up an almost vertical, exposed outcrop for about 14 metres (13) until you reach a very healthy looking young adult gum tree. It makes an excellent anchor for belaying the second climber, with a good view to the east across a vegetation-filled gully to a towering crag of volcanic columns.

6. The best pitch. Climb upwards and to the left through large jagged rocks, into a deep, right facing crack for protection and use the large unusual features of the uncharacteristically cream coloured right face to reach yet another tree/shrub belay at the top of the short wall. (35 m - 16)

Pitches 7 - 10 are a good practice in slinging marginal gear comprising of hedges and shrubs. Memory of this is hazy due to one head torch used between 2 climbers, who were on occasions up to 50 metres apart! Having several footholds break off in total darkness, part-way up a grade 13 pitch, was the most vivid memory of this section of the climb! Especially as there wasn't a lot in the way of good placements.

Start by climbing " It will be mine " or " We're not worthy " located at Wayne's world. These are both 2 pitch climbs with carrot bolts so take bolt plates. The new route continues up and slightly right. "It will be mine " is the better option. Mixed protection but definitely take a set of cams from 0.1 to #3 and nuts. Hexes and tri-cams also possible.

1. 35m (16) It will be mine 1st pitch.

2. 25m (13) It will be mine 2nd pitch.

3. 30m (15) Up and right through the roof section via the large steps. Hangers protecting the step moves. Continue diagonally up through the middle of the slab section to DBB.

4. 30m (14) Trend left up slight gulley to sling shrubs then up to left facing flake/roof. Follow the flake to DBB on left over easy ground. ( DBB common with the top of pitch 4 on Lohtse ).

5. 30m (10) Up and trending diagonally right on clean slabs to DBB. ( Lohtse trends up left crack line from this shared DBB ). No placements needed on this pitch.

6. 30m (14) Up slabs with limited protection but over easy terrain to a fixed hanger, from here go right for variant pitches or left for original climb up to chimney with a couple small shrubs approaching the left side of the obvious curved roof. Belay from the top of the chimney on two fixed hangers.

7. 30m (16) Roof pitch goes right on hangers then through the roof at the Apex. Difficulty easing above the roof. Climb up and diagonally right to DBB.

8. 30m (16) Up and right trending. Follow the hangers past the alcove on right to DBB directly above alcove.

9. 25m (16) Straight up slab to hanger. Steeper directly up pockets to vegetated ledge. Tricky section of either directly up or slightly right and up on good holds to rap station on left. Clip rap station but continue up to large ledge to create an anchor with a single hanger and gear in corner.

10. 25m (16) Tricky start off ledge to clip a bolt then up obvious line of protection on the arete using solid but sometimes hidden placements on your right. Resist the vegetated pockets on the left. Layback left to stand up on foot sized block to clip the hanger then Turtle-back move above. Up on thin footholds to sloping steps on left. Follow arete to DBB.

Escape left to gum tree and scrub. Caution needed leaving anchors. Follow faint track up and right 30m through scrub. Take care to stay on track, once at the rock apron continue right and up 30m along shoulder west of the knob. From here follow track right to join the tourist route. Alternatively a straight forward rap down the variant pitches to avoid the roof.

Variant pitches 6,7,8.

6 Variant. 30m (15) Up and trend right on gear to DBB on the slant under the right end of the roof line.

7 Variant. 30m (15) Up to clip hanger and then trend right with limited protection but over easy terrain to alcove and DBB.

8 Variant. 30m (16) Take a couple steps right and climb up to hanger. Follow the arete line as it gets steeper with various protection and 2 hangers to meet the original routes DBB above alcove.

A bog-standard South Face route which fills in a few gaps. It was climbed ground-up with a double rack, and although this might seem like overkill, individual pitches do have a strange tendency to require multiple cams of the same size.

There are three main cruxes - the 40m slab traverse forms the mental crux, the horrific bushwhacking exit forms the emotional crux, and climbing without snacks forms the culinary crux. One of the FA's ate two muesli bars enroute, therefore lowering his personal grade to M0, because food is aid.

While it is possible that some/much/all of this terrain has been climbed in the past, none of the existing route descriptions appear to match this route. Due to the extremely vague documentation of the old South Face routes, the FA's humbly submit this as a new line unless anyone provides compelling evidence to the contrary.

1. 50m (14) Start about 30m left of The Martian and the same distance right of a blocky roof. Sit start on good holds, blowing your onsight if you dab. Up line of least resistance, very easy but no gear for the first 20m. Some good protection becomes available in the middle of the pitch but disappears once again as you move through the bulge. Trend right to tree belay about 10m left of the first DBB on The Martian.

2. 50m (12) An easy but somewhat bold and serious pitch. Traverse horizontally for about 40m with only one piece of gear worth a damn. Once near the large corner, move up a rain runnel with big holds but little protection. Bomber gear belay in the corner crack. Note: Future ascensionists are welcome to push a direct start from below this corner, however it will be quite steep and somewhat out of character with the remainder of the route. Protection availability unknown.

3. 50m (13) A nice pitch of grippy slab. Gear is bomber, though spaced. Trend slightly rightwards and up to belay off two medium shrubs.

4. 50m (10) A hard hands free problem. Trend diagonally left to stay on mostly clean rock, keeping the line of vegetation close by on your right. Sling trees as needed and eventually find yourself at a comfortable grassy ledge with an adequate tree belay.

5. 45m (13) A pleasant ramble on decent rock. Gear can be placed if you desire such things. Straight up into a weird little vegetated pod belay.

6. 40m (15) At this point, the route intersects at times with Thunderball, though often takes a more natural line by following weaknesses. Move right from the belay and into a shallow groove, heading up to clip a bolt. Ignore the bolts out left, instead continuing straight up on cool pocket features to a bushy ledge beside the large black bulge. Belay here or at the bolted anchor on top of the bulge (semi-hanging). A lovely pitch and probably the standout of the route.

7. 50m (16) Move up and clip the bolt if you like, make sure to extend as you're going to move right through some dark, strangely featured rock. Sling some chickenheads (quite small, more like quailheads really) and keep moving up. Clip the rap station but move on, passing a ledge and some tricky moves near dicky bolts. Follow the left-trending gully which forms the line of natural weakness, ending up wherever makes sense to you. Note: As an alternative for this final pitch, it would be possible to trend right into the runnel feature and top out the route via a series of vegetated gullies. These lead to a faint saddle on the summit ridgeline which would keep the route a more traditional affair and probably lower the grade.

Descent: Pack your rope, unsheath your machete (but not really, it's a National Park) and sally forth into the shrubbery. Head painfully upward to meet with Beerwah's western shoulder where a footpad will contour east toward the Tourist Track. Down this and head to the cafe for milkshakes.

Just as you start pitch 3 of the Martian follow the traversing hangers that go left to vegetated ledge. You can continue up to the midway flake anchors but it's better for visibility to anchor off trees and bring your follower to the ledge.

The 2 pitches of the flake feature can be linked on a 60m rope.

From the top anchors climb diagonally right about 5m to continue on the Martian.

The Martian Multipitch. 320m grade 17 50m or so east from right end of Wayne's World, a few metres past a very large burned tree stump at a low point adjacent to the rock apron, as the track gradient starts to rise but before the big left facing corner. This is a clean and safe route to the top of the western shoulder ideal for beginners but long enough to engage the experience climber for a relaxing day out, with terrific top out pitches, all with bolted belays. Rock is great all the way. A set of cams up to #4, nuts and hexes. 10 draws. Slings and extenders. FA: R. Denny and C. Brazzelli

1. 48m (15) 5 m east from the burned tree base before the corner end of the wall. Up on easy ramp for 20m then trending left around a steep section. A steeper move around a block and up to a shady ledge.

2. 28m (13) Walk left and up to another nearby ledge. Climb the rampy shallow corner trending slightly left to a tree beside a detached big block. Belay behind tree.

3. 30m (14) Step right and up from belay and climb up to lip on featured slab. ( The 90 degree left traversing line is for The Martian Moon Flake Variant ). Trend slight left with some bold sections to belay on ledge behind gum trees.

4. 31m (13) Thin moves up slab, sling small trees on the left and gear, above small terrace, great featured rock straight up.

5. 30m (11) Climb straight up on grippy and featured low angle slab, follow small crack line with pro to belay. Good rock, typical Beerwah volcanic features. The next 2 pitches weave through the timbered middle slabs, take care to stay on route.

6. 30m (13) From belay, up and trending right on low angle slabs (grade 4), sling trees and find the way above to ledge/alcove behind shrubs. Up the chimney to belay above.

7. 30m (13) Up right facing corner from belay. Pitch is trending slightly left and stays on clean rock. Scramble to belay above.

8. 30m (15) Up to bushy terrace and walk 10m left to base of chimney. Climb chimney with pro options (or arete on the left) to left of rooflet. Up past shrubbery contouring left, jam fingers behind a polished detached cruxy block. Straight up good pro, final approach to belay from below left, has hidden pro. Beware of some minor rope drag on this pitch, use long extenders. NOTE: if rapping this pitch, it is necessary to stay right (east) of the climbing line on the rib and keep the rope well away from the corner to avoid getting it stuck in the flakes and cracks.

9. 30m (15) A slab pitch getting steeper, up left at first to meet the faint right trending crack system with small placements. Moss and lichen covering on this pitch, small holds, engaging, last section up past a small tree to a hanging belay. Terrific slab pitch.

10. Olympus Mons (crux) 30m (17) Climb the vertical crack system trending right, a few cruxy and thought provoking sections, good rock, to top out belay. Mind the stacked blocks at the top. Final 6m use right ramp to escape the overhanging chimney or climb directly.

1x60m rope sufficient to climb the route.

From top belay, scramble up the wide gully between the west shoulder and the knob. The arch is visible on the RHS. Once on the saddle ridge, descend and traverse contours towards the north-east to meet the tourist track. Try to stay on existing foot pad to avoid erosion.

Approach: This route tops out the prominent knob on the Western shoulder of Beerwah below the summit. Can be accessed via a number of different hiking routes. First ascent was done as a tasty addition to The Martian. After Olympus mons (pitch 10 of the Martian) scramble approximately 50 m up the exit gulley towards the western shoulder, until you begin to pass the base of the knob and it's south west facing wall, 15m to the right of the exit track.

Description: Climb starts at the vertical crack, just left of center of the wall (avoiding the overhung lips to the right) Crack 15m before stepping right and up onto sustained slab with left-facing corner. Done with cams .3-2, nuts 1-13. Natural belay(trees and boulder) perched on the knob with awesome western outlook.

A bit of a journey! This route features 210m of independent climbing, however access involves a lengthy vertical approach. Distance from base to summit of Beerwah is some 650m, including 7 pitches of The Martian and a rising scramble traverse through typical Glassies scrub. The wide range of experiences on this route inspired the name. One for the adventure climbers!

For pitches 1 through 7, climb The Martian. 240m of good rock with mixed protection, mid teen grades at most. Simul-climbers will move quickly here.

Half-way up the 7th pitch, just above the only hanger on the pitch, traverse right. Follow blue tape for an easy scramble a la Caves Route. Perhaps 200m right and 100m+ height gain, heading for the landmark double roof. Back on rope for pitches 8 to 11 up a generally left-facing corner to terrace 100m above. Full rack of cams 0.1 to #4, stacks of gear options, traffic needed to clean this section, rock quality improving with height.

Pitch 8 – 20m, Grade 18. Four fixed hangers lead to belay on spacious vegetated ledge. A thin, balancy crux with a weird mantle.

Pitch 9 – 40m, Grade 22-23 or A1. Getting steeper and harder now, follow the corner crack system with some bolts to guide the way. Well protected pitch to a semi-hanging belay below roof. Fairly sustained free climbing or a good aid pitch. Free grade is still anyone's guess until properly clean, but it's hard work.

Pitch 10 – 20m, Grade 20 A0. Easing off up corner under classic double roof with good cracks. 5m horizontal "Thank God" ledge leads left under roof to join bolt ladder up blank wall. This has not yet been freed, might go at 21 or so. Up to DBB and stance just left and above the roof with good visuals to seconder. Exposed. Option for the better climbers is to ignore the ledge and bolt ladder and to follow the corner crack all the way to meet the roof line. Trace the line where the roof blocks meets the wall - "Great Roof" style except backhand to the left. This option should be classic but looks hard, someone might get it.

Pitch 11 – 20m, Grade 18. Continue to top via vertical crack, take cams all the way. An awkward move in the middle, after which you will reach a vegetated terrace for a tree belay.

Pitch 12 – 30m. Coil ropes and scramble up with a slight leftward trend to an alcove where rock face starts again.

Pitch 13 – 25m, Grade 13. Unpack ropes again and climb up past four hangers trending left to DBB. Follow goat track with old tape up and right for 20m or so to base of headwall with a single ring anchor.

Pitch 14 – 30m, Grade 13. Up and right of ring through shrubbery with a few hangers to help route finding. DBB at the base of steep slab on final pitch.

Pitch 15 - 25m, Grade 18/19. Tricky slab, harder than it looks. Following shallow groove/runnel to ledge and left facing corner, thru head wall to DBB out of sight below summit, then top out on the Western end of the summit ridge.

Decend via tourist route. Still awaiting an FFA, get after it!

This climb starts off on the big vegetated ledge after climbing the first pitch of DIVINE COMEDY. We found the rock quality to be better this way and it finishes up a unique water runnel. The best time to climb on the south side is from April until August as it has all day shade. Because of the all day shade allow for significant drying times after rain.

The name for this climb is after an experience we had upon our FA attempt. We were walking around to the south side and almost at waynes world when 2 hikers appeared from the bush. "Is this the way to the general " they asked. We all look at each other puzzled " Do you mean the tourist track " I ask. "yeah you know, the general way up " they reply. We joked about it the rest of the day and the name stuck.

PITCH 1 Grade 19, 15m. From the pitch 1 anchors of DIVINE COMEDY start traversing right around arete following fixed hangers. Good to use an extender on bolt just around arete to stop rope damage if falling.

PITCH 2 Grade 18, 30m. From DBB climb up through chimney to ledge then follow flake feature up to DBB.

PITCH 3 Grade 20 From DBB climb straight up keeping the fixed hangers on your left until you reach water runnel feature in which you climb through the middle.

From the top of Pitch 3 you can scramble up to a vegetated area and go off rope. From here you can either follow the goat track left and continue on with DIVINE COMEDY or keep going left to meet up with the tourist track.

The start is located on the left of the ridge on the south face. The first four pitches are up a wall on good rock, then 200m of mank and bush to the middle cliffs. The next four pitches are up from a small pinnacle against the face, up and over a small overhang and into a crack. Up the crack until it rises to a huge overhang. Traverse right onto the right wall and across to another crack and up. The last four pitches are clean climbing on the steep ribs that lead to the top.

Start two ridges west of the Central Rib, at the base of the large, clean wall on the south face. Up left to a sloping ledge. Traverse leftward under an overhang to a grassy ledge. Up a rather water-worn groove to the right of a corner. up rightward over slabs to a projecting rock, right of an overhang. Up the slabs below the overhand and then up the groove and into a cave. Out of the cave to a crack on the left of an overhang.

Start about 500m right of Mopoke Slabs. The climb commences just to the left of 'Barrier Wall'. Follows up a series of slabs until the veranda is reached. Traverse to the right for about 30m until a large prominent rib bounding the south and east faces is reached. A difficult chimney is surmounted which leads to the crest of the rib. 115m of climbing on the face of this immense rib leads to a belt of scrub below the summit pyramid. The final wall is well provided in knobbly excrescences and a direct route is followed over this wall to the summit.

Follow seem all the way up.

Look for the prominent jug on ITOS, about 6-7m up, and start 4m right of this. Or, alternatively, look for a prominent block, sticking out 15cm, about 10-12m up, the route starts below & right of this and heads up through an inverted "v" & much welcome gear. From the inverted "v", head left, towards the block (more gear), then keep trending slightly left, to ITOS anchors at the grass tuft above.

Now the second route at the crag; look for the prominent jug, about 6-7m up, up the double cracks, till they merge, straight up to grass tuft & anchors.

Start: about 5m left of ITOS, at a vague line of weakness, below the start of the overhanging blocks at the top. Easy climbing with spaced gear. Up to DBB & rap.

This is an old school grade 10, runout, with poor gear in the lower half, treat it as a 12. Start:

1. 35m 10 Roughly 10m left of WAD, at the shallow, right facing corner & cracked block. Up to this, offering some gear, then up slab above on scant gear, to blocks & vegetation, through this, up slab to headwall & continue through the roof, then trend right to a small ledge & tree belay (still there? 52yrs later?).

2. 45m 10 Up through roof & onto slab above & easier territory (no indication given as to belay options here).

Start: About 4m left of Avenger, below the shallow right facing corner. No gear for 10m, then small gear in corner, up this to shallow roof, step onto slab, up slab to a stance & trad belay below the main roofs about 15m up. From here, traverse 15m left to small tree & rap station.

Start: 5m left of Acquitted, at pockets below the smooth right facing corner. Up these on gear, then up the smooth corner with adequate gear available, slightly right at top blocks, up a thin crack to trad belay at 15m. Traverse 10m left to tree & rap station.

A hard 15. Start: about 3m left of OITC, the thin face crack, just right of the prominent Third Degree left facing corner. Now filled with ferns. Up thin crack on scant gear to roof & critical gear, over the rooflet, continue to trad belay, below big roofs. Traverse 10m left to tree & rap station.

Start: the prominent left facing corner, 1.5m left of Jury's Out. Layback up the corner on good gear to roof, traverse left to handcrack, mount this, up to large roofs above, then traverse 8m left to tree & rap station.

Rather daunting test piece. Start: the slab, 4m left of the Third Degree corner.

1. 35m 18 - First solid gear is the crack, at 15m. Up slab (there is gear in the flake, 2m on the right) on a wing & a prayer, to crack & critical gear, contine up to the big roofs above & a hard move through these, brings you to a good stance & BR. Continue up easy slab to BR & gear belay.

2. 45m - Follow the right trending line up, over a small bulge, and belay at blocks above. Walk left, along a ledge system, to find the Proven Guilty rap station.

Start: The thin crack/seam, 1.5m left of DSMNU. Not for the faint hearted: Up the thin seam, to the one & only piece of gear, at 10m, then continue up thin slab, to big blocks above, and step 2m left to tree & rap station.

Another test piece, with very limited trad gear. Start: 1.5m left of SPTW, directly below the tree. Up the seam, finding critical sparse gear placements as you go, to the tree & chain belay.

Another test piece of sparse gear. Start: Seam 1m left of Barracuda. Very thin holds up to marginal gear about 8m up, then better placements above that. Continue up to chains left of tree.

About 1m left of Mistaken Identity: thin crack or weakness in the rock. Up this, with no gear, to top, then traverse 2m right to rap anchors on MI. The original ascentist graded it at 10. I would take that with a grain of salt, especially given that there's no gear or protection on it. Bold Climbing.

Starts 2m left of The Lady with the Handbag. This route climbs under the tree rather than over it. Climb up on some delicate holds with no pro for the first 5 meters or so (crux) before reaching some nicely featured rock with better holds. Duck under the tree (sling the tree if you dare!), then continue up much more easily following the obvious groove/crack which provides mostly adequate gear placements. A few meters before reaching the overhangs, step right to traverse several meters across to the bolted anchors of Barracuda.

Start: 6m left of Mistaken Identity. As of 2023, with a fallen tree on the slab.

1. 20m - Climb up to & surmount the tree, now blocking the way, to the prominent crack, up this to the overhangs & trad belay.

2. 50m - Surmount the overhang, following a good crack, continue up the slab, on spaced gear, to a stance with good trad gear.

3. 15m - traverse left to DBB on PG.

Start 6m left of Mr. Lazyboots, 2m right of Dark and Stormy.

1. 50m 13 - Start: Up the crack/groove on slab for several meters to reach the large flake/overlap feature. Up and over the overlap, negotiating the annoying dead tree branch, on nice holds, eventually reaching a good stance. Step right to gain another flake/overlap in a small corner system, heading up this towards a grassy bush. Up over the bush, continuing up the lower angled wall, passing a bolt (byo hanger). Keep climbing up the crack/pockets for another 10m or so, until a very small tree is reached. Make a natural belay around here.

2. 20m 10 - Continue up the right trending crack/pockets, with sparse gear, but easy climbing to a double bolt belay at 20m (byo hangers). Note: The belay is just two bolts, with no hangers, chain, or rap mallion, so can be hard to spot.

Descent option 1: To rap from pitch 2 will require the joining of two 70m ropes to reach the ground. This will also require you to leave your own bolt plates/slings/mallion or carabiner, as there is no rap hardware on this anchor.

Descent option 2: Continue climbing the slab upwards to the scrub, bush bash through this, and eventually walking off to the tourist track off to the right.

Descent option 3: 1x60m rope - traverse left from pitch 2 anchors, about 15m, find the most stable looking tree, rap from this tree down about 10/15m to the top anchors of Proven Guilty, rap from here to the pitch 1 anchor, then to ground.

Start: 2m left of The Artful Dodger.

1. 35m 15 - Overcome the ferny start, to good pockets in crack, continue up face, where the gear becomes sparse, arriving at a good trad belay stance. (Note; there was a piton in the face, used on earlier ascents, on this pitch.)

2. 25m 10 - Continue up the pocketed face, trending left, to arrive at the DBB of PG.

Start: 3m left of DAS, initialled "AI".

1. 30m 17 - A spicy start, quite hard for the grade, to gain the pockets (pro) and then crack. Up the crack with good gear options for about 15 meters until you are faced with a bulge that has a left facing corner. Place marginal gear before tackling the tricky and runout bulge sequence. Continue up on little to no gear all the way to the chains.

2. 30m 14 - An easier and fun pitch. From the anchor step right to the crack. Head up crack with gear options available. Once the crack starts to run out at the lower angle slab, traverse diagonally left for several meters to the anchors on Proven Guilty.

Start: 4m left of Assumed Innocent, initialled "PG".

1. 30m 16 - Climbs the obvious slabby groove just left of Assumed Innocent. Hard start, after the route setter broke a key hold off, on the FA. This was originally graded a 13! Work the curved groove, to gain high BR, then easing a bit, to crack, up this, until gear starts to run out, then traverse right for 3 metres or so, no gear, to gain Assumed Innocent anchors.

2. 30m 14 - Step left and up from the anchors to regain the Proven Guilty crack that continues up on some marginal gear until a BR is reached below a bulge at 20m. Climb over or around the bulge (possible cam and nut placement just below the bulge), then run it out for a further 10m to the anchor on the left next to a small tree (shared anchor with Assumed Innocent).

Optional pitch

1. 40m 10 - Step right from the belay and head up past a couple of large pockets towards some small bushes. Continue up staying just left of the bushes, eventually reaching a tree-lined apron at about 20m. Squeeze your way between the trees for 10m to a small rock wall with a right facing corner. Up the corner for 10m to tree belay.

Descent option 1) Rap off tree, to Proven Guilty anchors.

Descent option 2) Continue on up to ledges, walk off right to hiker's track.

Start: 10m left of Proven Guilty, below the small tree, next to the projecting knob of rock.

1. 35m 14 - (As of 2023, the crack is chock full of ferns) Take the knobby face up to the tree, continue up on thin, but good holds to a welcome BR, about 10m above the tree, on the face out left, continue up to belay at the 35m mark, with good gear.

2. 25m 12 - Up, following the sparse gear on the face, until this peters out, then head right to the PG anchors & rap.

(NB: A piton runner was replaced by a carrot on p1)

Start: 4m left of WM, beneath the bulging block.

1. 45m 15 - Not an inspiring line, the run-out at the start, sets the mood for this route: run-out, with sparse gear. Up to BR(?), then block (& gear), continue up on spaced gear, to a belay stance & DBB.

2. 15m 13 - Traverse 10m right, on no gear, step down to diagonal crack, trend up R, towards the DBB belay on PG.

Start: 2m left of Short Circuit. Up the featured face, to the big block, and left side of this.

Start: 2m left of Sizzler, just right of leaning slab up to Burke's Backyard, a featured slab. Very bold climbing on thin gear. Will not see many ascents, with the first bolt at around the 18-20m mark.

1. 45m 17 - Up the thin pocketed slab to a small ledge, 10m up, then up the face, another 10m, to a very welcome BR, climb slightly right trending, past another 2 BRs, to a bulge & DBB.

2. 40m - Head 5m right, below overlap, to find gear, then up a thin line & pocketed face, aiming for a small corner system up above, mount this to reach a DBB.

Start: 1.5m left of Columbian Necktie, or 5-6m left of Short Circuit, at the right facing ramp, leading up to the crack. Bold climbing at the grade: big run-outs, esp. on p2.

1. 40m 14 - Up the easy ramp, to gain the crack system proper, up this to a good stance below some bushes & trad belay.

2. 40m - Follow a seamless overlap to a peg, small, sparse gear to the roof above, through this on good holds on the RHS, then squeak up to DBB & change pants.

Start: 3-4m left of Burke's Backyard, below shallow left facing, broken corner. Another bold route, with thin gear & run-outs, committing move at the crux (1st BR). Up to small ledge & follow the shallow corner, with small gear, to the BR on the left, past this, up to roof above, through this to another BR, then follow the shallow groove to a DBB.

Start: 2.5m left of WW, at the pocketed seam. More bold climbing at the grade.

1. 40m 15 - Up the pockets on good gear, passing a small bulge, up to anchors as for WW.

2. 35m - Up to the overlap, & small gear, then up the "flying flakes", with psychological protection, to the DBB & safety.

Start: As for Drop Zone, up to small rooflet/overlap, then up the left trending line on good gear. Either head left, to trad belay on Blackout, then finish up p2 of this, or, head right, to DBB on WW & rap from here. Gets 1* for good gear + no run-outs.

Start: 2m left of Drop Zone, pocketed crack, leading up to a small block.

1. 40m 16 - Follow the left leaning crack up, on good holds, but spaced gear, then move left to a tricky move, then up on easier moves, to a vertical crack & trad belay.

2. 45m - Head straight up for the white streaks on the slab above, sparse gear, to the bushes above. Once at these, head right to find DBB.

Start: About 3m left of Blackout, in the wide fern filled crack. Very tricky & dodgy gear placements up to first bolt = decking out is a possibility here, requires a confident leader, with a cool head. Bridge up the gap, finding gear as you go, committing move to bolt, then up passing another 2 BRs, to anchors.

Start: 1.5m left of Cut Short, at slab with vines growing across it. Up the blank slab to first bolt, then to anchors, passing another 2 BRs. Committing moves at the top, on no gear. A hard 16.

The first ascent was done just after the Port Arthur Massacre - and the subsequent gun buypack scheme, thus the name. It was also Neil's first ever use of a handrill - the tedium of bashing and twisting certainly controlled the bolt gun!

Starts 12m left of Guillotine (or 13-14m left of the big white gum).

1. 40m 14. Up the wall on big pockets till you arrive at a slab, up this delicately to a natural belay ledge with rap chains.

2. 48m 14. Traverse out right to a weakness in the rock, about 2m from belay ledge, then up through the overhang to face climbing above. Up this passing one FH, then continue up the slab for another 15m to a DBB.

3. 30m 10. Traverse out left along ledge to a slab, then straight across the slab to the prominent corner & tree belay at base of this.

4. 35m 12. Climb up to a big corner, & up this on good rock & trad protection, then a scree slope to belay tree. From this belay it is possible to escape the route via 150m scramble across right to the hiker's track, and down this.

5. 50m 2. Scramble up to the big red cave and the start of the next pitch.

6. 30m 10. Up the chimney on scant protection and dubious rock to a tree belay.

From here, continue up the ridge to the summit & down the hiker's track. To gain the ridge, a fun option is step onto the dome from the belay ledge and climb the crack/flake which has some nice moves with good pro for about 20m, to tree belay in the forest.

Variant finish to pitch 6 (if the chimney is slimy wet):

6b. 30m 16. Up chimney to a good hex placement, then out right onto a small ledge & up the face on good holds, but no pro, to tree belay.

Pitch 1 & 2 anchors replaced September 2021

35m left of Gun Control (Head on up the slope, past Gun Control, past the overhang, down the slope, to the prominent sports slab) The pocketed line, just right of Super Size Me (carroted route), behind a sapling. Up the slab, on large pockets & good gear, till it eases, then trend left, to a block & belay stance, about 10m below the big roofs. Escape: down-climb, trending slightly left, to chains on Super Size Me.

Start: Below the starting block for Eye On Crime, route is 1.5m left of EOC. below the first carrot bolt. A nice line, well protected. Up, passing 5 bolts, to chains. (Take bolt plates.)

Start: 2m left of Super Size Me (carroted route), below the right facing corner. Nice, well protected face climbing. Up face, to first u-bolt out left, the up corner crack, passing 2 more u-bolts, chains up left, above Shanny.

Start: 1m left of Entrapment. Up the face, to first U-bolt, follow the next 4 to chains. Nice face climbing.

Start: 1m left of Shanny. Good value face climbing up a well protected route. Up face to U-bolt, up passing another 4, to rap station.