Slider Wall Mostly sport climbing

50 routes in cliff

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Description

Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: 2006

2
17 Blowing Bubbles Sport 15m

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: 1999

3

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright, Peta Barrett

4
23 ** Monkey Magic Sport 10m, 4

Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Crimpy climbing. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick, 1999

5
23 * Magictrip Sport 20m, 7

A link-up, linking the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic before heading right and finishing up Tripitaka.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

6
23 * Tripitaka Sport 14m

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

7
21 Pigsy Sport 12m

Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal, 2004

8

Reversy-traversy

Start: At Something about Sandy

FA: 2007

9
19 Something About Sandy Sport 13m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

10
16 The Horse Sport 12m, 4

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

11

A link up.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts beforing heading right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

FA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2007

12
15 * Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

FA: G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson, 2004

13

... of a Jug.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

14

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

15
24 ** The Vampire Master Sport 10m

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

FA: Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

16
21 A Shadow So Huge Sport 8m

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: 2007

17

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

18
15 unknown Trad 30m

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the fixed ropes up and around this section (a few minutes scramble) to arrive on the relatively flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

19
V6 ** Watermark Boulder 8m

FA: Gareth Llewellin

20
22 Procrastinator Sport 17m

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

21
22 ** Procrastislider Sport 16m

Start up Procastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2007

22
24 * Procrastihowler Sport 20m

A link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

23
26 ** Procrastiwailer Sport 23m

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

24

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

25
28 ** The Forty Metre Mile Sport 38m

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes, 2006

26
28 *** The Expedition Sport 40m, 24

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

27
29 Pandora Sport 42m, 25

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2009

FA: 2009

28
29 *** Departures Sport 42m, 25

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: Ross Ferguson, Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

29
22 *** Slider Sport 16m

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: 2008

30
18 Swinger Sport 19m

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

31
23 *** Squealer Sport 18m, 6

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the frst raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

32
23 ** Squealer (pre 2005) Sport 21m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

33
25 *** Madder Sport 15m

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

34
25 *** Howler VF Sport 16m
35
24 *** Howler Sport 16m, 5

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

36
25 *** Wowler Sport 18m, 5

Linkup, start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

37
25 ** Wailer Sport 18m, 4

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Start: Start as for 'Howler'. Now has it's own first bolt for days when it's busy.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

38
27 *** Chain Reaction Sport 30m

Wailer into Dr Pinocchio into The Overseer. Classic pumper!

39
27 *** Hybrid Vigour Sport 24m

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

40
25 ** The Final Piece Sport 17m, 6

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

41

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

42
24 ** Doctor Pinocchio Trad 20m
43

Doctor Pinocchio into The overseer. Pumper.

44
21 ** Overseer Sport 27m

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

45
24 Overseer RHV Sport 30m

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

46

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

47

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

FA: 2006

48

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

These 2 climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

49
21 Branigan's Law Sport 15m

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan and Natalie

50
20 * The Robot Devil Sport 15m

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005