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Table of contents

1. Slider Wall 50 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.945977, -26.928669

Description:

Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Fires of Jealousy

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

10Trad 25m
2 Blowing Bubbles

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gary Meyrick, 1999

17Sport 15m
3 You win some you lose some

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright, Peta Barrett, 2007

27Sport 15m, 4
4 ** Monkey Magic

Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Crimpy climbing. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick, 1999

23Sport 10m, 4
5 * Magictrip

A link-up, linking the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic before heading right and finishing up Tripitaka.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

23Sport 20m, 7
6 * Tripitaka

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

23Sport 14m
7 Pigsy

Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal, 2004

21Sport 12m
8 * The Minx And The Slug

Reversy-traversy

Start: At Something about Sandy

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn, 2007

23Sport 12m
9 Something About Sandy

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

19Sport 13m, 5
10 The Horse

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

16Sport 12m, 4
11 * Monster Master (link up)

A link up.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts beforing heading right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

FA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2007

24Sport 20m
12 * Such A Nice Monster

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

FA: G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson, 2004

15Sport 15m
13 * The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

21Sport 13m
14 * Even Monsters Can Be People

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

24Sport 14m, 7
15 ** The Vampire Master

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

FA: Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

24Sport 10m
16 A Shadow So Huge

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborn, 2007

21Sport 8m
17 * Outrageous Coincidences

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 8m, 3
18 unknown

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

15Trad 30m

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the fixed ropes up and around this section (a few minutes scramble) to arrive on the relatively flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

19 ** Watermark

FA: Gareth Llewellin

V6Boulder 8m
20 Procrastinator

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 17m
21 ** Procrastislider

Start up Procastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2007

22Sport 16m
22 * Procrastihowler

A link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

24Sport 20m
23 ** Procrastiwailer

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

26Sport 23m
24 ** Vigorous Procrastination

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

27Sport
25 ** The Forty Metre Mile

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes, 2006

28Sport 38m
26 *** The Expedition

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

28Sport 40m, 24
27 Pandora

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2009

29Sport 42m, 25
28 *** Departures

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: Ross Ferguson, Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

29Sport 42m, 25
29 *** Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2008

22Sport 16m
30 Swinger

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

18Sport 19m
31 *** Squealer

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23Sport 18m, 6
32 ** Squealer (pre 2005)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23Sport 21m
33 *** Madder

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 15m, 5
34 *** Howler VF

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

25Sport 16m
35 *** Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

24Sport 16m, 5
36 *** Wowler

Linkup, start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

25Sport 18m, 5
37 ** Wailer

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Start: Start as for 'Howler'. Now has it's own first bolt for days when it's busy.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

25Sport 18m, 4
38 *** Chain Reaction

Wailer into Dr Pinocchio into The Overseer. Classic pumper!

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

27Sport 30m
39 *** Hybrid Vigour

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

27Sport 24m
40 ** The Final Piece

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 17m, 6
41 ** Geppetto

Climb The Final Piece into Overseer.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

25Sport 30m
42 ** Doctor Pinocchio

FA: Russell Bright, Ross Ferguson, 2008

24Trad 20m
43 ** Pinocchio's Extension

Doctor Pinocchio into The overseer. Pumper.

26Sport 28m
44 ** Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

21Sport 27m
45 Overseer RHV

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2009

24Sport 30m

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

46 What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 8m, 3
47 Monkey Swallows The Universe

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellyn, 2006

14Mixed 15m, 2
48 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

12Mixed 20m, 5

These 2 climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

49 Branigan's Law

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan Castel and Natalie, 2005

21Sport 15m, 4
50 * The Robot Devil

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

20Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 The Fires of Jealousy Trad 25m
12 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven Mixed 20m, 5
14 Monkey Swallows The Universe Mixed 15m, 2
15 * Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m
unknown Trad 30m
16 The Horse Sport 12m, 4
17 Blowing Bubbles Sport 15m
18 Swinger Sport 19m
19 Something About Sandy Sport 13m, 5
20 * The Robot Devil Sport 15m
21 A Shadow So Huge Sport 8m
Branigan's Law Sport 15m, 4
** Overseer Sport 27m
Pigsy Sport 12m
* The Most Monstrous Monster Sport 13m
22 * Outrageous Coincidences Sport 8m, 3
Procrastinator Sport 17m
** Procrastislider Sport 16m
*** Slider Sport 16m
What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman Sport 8m, 3
23 * Magictrip Sport 20m, 7
** Monkey Magic Sport 10m, 4
*** Squealer Sport 18m, 6
** Squealer (pre 2005) Sport 21m
* The Minx And The Slug Sport 12m
* Tripitaka Sport 14m
24 ** Doctor Pinocchio Trad 20m
* Even Monsters Can Be People Sport 14m, 7
*** Howler Sport 16m, 5
* Monster Master (link up) Sport 20m
Overseer RHV Sport 30m
* Procrastihowler Sport 20m
** The Vampire Master Sport 10m
25 ** Geppetto Sport 30m
*** Howler VF Sport 16m
*** Madder Sport 15m, 5
** The Final Piece Sport 17m, 6
** Wailer Sport 18m, 4
*** Wowler Sport 18m, 5
26 ** Pinocchio's Extension Sport 28m
** Procrastiwailer Sport 23m
V6 ** Watermark Boulder 8m
27 *** Chain Reaction Sport 30m
*** Hybrid Vigour Sport 24m
** Vigorous Procrastination Sport
You win some you lose some Sport 15m, 4
28 *** The Expedition Sport 40m, 24
** The Forty Metre Mile Sport 38m
29 *** Departures Sport 42m, 25
Pandora Sport 42m, 25