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Description

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Troposphere p1 Sport 30m

Start about 30 metres to the west of the climbers access track. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

2
17 Troposphere p2 Sport 15m

Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

3
18 * Troposphere p3 Sport 15m

This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

FFA: Phil box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

4
15 Troposphere p4 Sport 25m

Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

5
16 Troposphere p5 Sport 30m

Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

6
18 C Section Sport 25m

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name.

Start: At the top of pitch 1 of 'Troposphere'

FA: Phil Box, JJ O'Brien, 2007

7
19 Rescision Sport 15m

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

8
14 Heliosphere Sport 35m

Up the slab passing about ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

9
24 * Zenith Sport 25m

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

10
22 * Vernal Equinox Sport 28m

The line of 11 FH's directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

11
22 ** Latitudes Sport 35m

A long, exciting pitch, and probably a bit stiff for 21, but we don't want to have every route graded 22.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Lee Cujes

12

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'.

  1. 35m (16) At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L.

  2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge.

  3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

  4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

13
22 ** Voyager p2 Sport 12m
14
23 ** Voyager p3 Sport 100m

All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch as for 'Aphelion'.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it\'s a tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to 'Halfway House' terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of 'Aphelion' and rap with two 60 metre ropes.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Cam Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

15
17 Voyager p4 Sport 30m
16
21 * Aphelion p2 Sport 12m
17
22 *** Aphelion p3 Sport 30m

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

19
18 ** Rubicon p1 Sport 45m

Start: 10m L, below first FH. Marked 'R'.

  1. 45m (18) 12 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

  2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

  3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2004

20
22 *** Rubicon p2 Sport 30m

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box