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Description

Routes are listed from left to right.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Access as for 'Celestial Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to 'Clemency Wall'.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 ** Clemency Trad 230m, 6

Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

  1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

  2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch).

  3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

  4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

  5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

  6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FFA: Unknown.

FA: FA Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966

2
23 ** Sent From Above Sport 12m

Start on the flat vegetated ledge 5m left of the rap rings at the base of Clemency's third pitch corner. Access from there, or rap in from Halfway House. To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left of the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m. Setting a trad anchor is possible on the ledge. Four FH's with one bouldery section to rap station. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb out (trad) on the next route.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006

3
16 Apricots Trad 28m

Start at the bolted belay anchor for the previous route. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House terrace.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006

4
22 * The Mace Trad 18m

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Skidmore, 2002

5
20 ** Alienation Trad 18m

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Phil Box, 2002

6
19 ** Divergence Trad 20m

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002

7

FA: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

8

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 2005

9

Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really. Up Caritas for two bolts, then step left onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful sidepulling to ledge. Re-join Caritas to finish. Pre-place a long quickdraw on the first bolt on the bulge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Rob Saunders, 2006

10
22 *** Caritas Sport 18m

This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. The easiest access is to either climb up to it via The Twisticle Connection, or rap in from the main rap tree on Halfway House down onto the ledge with rap station beneath base of corner (leave rap rope in place). Superb climbing. A short wall, then the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above. Seven FH's. Either lower from the rap station, or belay up your second then scramble (roped) up onto Halfway House.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

11
17 ** Guenevere Trad 90m, 3

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

  1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

  2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

  3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box & Samantha Coles, 2003

12
15 * Lancelot Trad 90m, 4

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

  1. 20m - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

  2. 30m - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this t base of ledge. Good DBB.

  3. 25m - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (more like grade 18 moves) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

  4. 15m - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

FA: Ken Grimes, Peter Kennedy & Eric Hewett, 1966

13
16 * Dreadnought Trad 380m, 12

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

  1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

  3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

  4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

  5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

  6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

  7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

  8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

  9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

  10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

  11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

  12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

FA: Ted Cais & Mike Meadows, 1970

14
18 Dreadnought VF Trad 75m, 2

Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.

  1. 55m (crux) - Instead of climbing left into the groove, veer right and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green Alien, #3 Peenut). Hard layaway rock over to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med cams. Moderately up good slab to a peg in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large cams). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (peg, cam, wires).

  2. 20m (10) - Veer left up slab to join original.

FA: Darrin Carter & Mark Poole, 2000

Activity

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