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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Sport
Long/Lat: 152.947516, -26.928656
- Description:© (gremlin)
Routes are listed from left to right.
- Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
- Approach:© (gremlin)
Access as for 'Celestial Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to 'Clemency Wall'.
- Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.
Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966
Sent From Above
FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006
FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006
3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.
FA: Phil Box, Lee Skidmore, 2002
4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.
FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2002
A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).
FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2002
Tested Twisticle (left)
FA: Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 2005
Tested Twisticle (right)
FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2005
The Simon Vos Memorial
FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders, 2006
FA: Lee Skidmore Phil Box, 2004
Start: 6m L of Lancelot.
A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.
FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, Samantha Coles, 2003
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.
Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1970
|Tested Twisticle (left)||32m|
|Tested Twisticle (right)||35m|
|23||Sent From Above||12m|
|27||The Simon Vos Memorial||18m|