A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Clemency Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.947516, -26.928656

Description:© (gremlin)

Routes are listed from left to right.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Access as for 'Celestial Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to 'Clemency Wall'.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Clemency

Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

  1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

  2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground).

  3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

  4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

  5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

  6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FFA: Unknown.

FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

16Trad 230m
2 Sent From Above

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

23Sport 12m
3 Apricots

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

16Trad 28m
4 * The Mace

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box, Lee Skidmore, 2002

22Trad 18m
5 ** Alienation

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2002

20Trad 18m
6 ** Divergence

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2002

19Trad 20m
7 Tested Twisticle (left)

FA: Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

17Trad 32m
8 * Tested Twisticle (right)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2005

18Trad 35m
9 *** The Simon Vos Memorial

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders, 2006

27Sport 18m
10 *** Caritas

FA: Lee Skidmore Phil Box, 2004

22Sport 18m
11 * Guenevere

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

  1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

  2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

  3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, Samantha Coles, 2003

17Trad 90m
12 Lancelot 15Trad 90m
13 * Dreadnought

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

  1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

  3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

  4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

  5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

  6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

  7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

  8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

  9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

  10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

  11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

  12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1970

16Trad 380m
14 Dreadnought VF 18Trad 75m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 Lancelot Trad 90m
16 Apricots Trad 28m
* Clemency Trad 230m
* Dreadnought Trad 380m
17 * Guenevere Trad 90m
Tested Twisticle (left) Trad 32m
18 Dreadnought VF Trad 75m
* Tested Twisticle (right) Trad 35m
19 ** Divergence Trad 20m
20 ** Alienation Trad 18m
22 *** Caritas Sport 18m
* The Mace Trad 18m
23 Sent From Above Sport 12m
27 *** The Simon Vos Memorial Sport 18m