Routes are listed from left to right.
Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.
|?||Caves Route Sector
NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".
Access as for 'Carborundum Wall' sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.
|?||NE Buttress Sector
From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.
Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit. Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D. 1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge. 2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R. 3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional). 4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay. 5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay. 6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner. 7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch. 8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay. 9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace. 10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance. 11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB. 12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit
Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee). A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'. 1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear. 2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch). 3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp. 4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance. 5) 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode. 6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.
|?|| Airtime Over Pumicestone
Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens. 1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station. 2. 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch. 3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. 4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station. 5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall. 6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station. Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.
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