Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 Cunningly Deceptive Mixed 25m, 2

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003

2
19 Rocketsauce Sport 12m

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007

3
19 Tenacious D Sport 12m

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

4

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

5

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

6
22 R Emu-less Trad 12m

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003

7
23 * Gut Punch The Budda Sport 12m

Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

8
22 ** Maponus p1 Trad 12m
  1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

  2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003

9
23 ** Maponus p2 Sport 25m
10

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

11
25 ** Dagda Sport 25m

Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

12
24 *** Voluptuous Sport 11m

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

13
23 ** Bargearse Sport 15m

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous, just L of the small banksia tree. Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009

14

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes

15
20 ** Hungry Beast Sport 15m

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. After the first bolt (shared with Elite Rebuplican Guard) head sightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock (five more FH's) to lower-off. Steeper than it looks.

FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009

16
25 ** Love, Honour and Belay Sport 16m, 6

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. Six FH's.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009

17

The bolted orange corner.

FA: Pat Daly, 2004

18
25 Switch Blade Honey Sport 30m

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

19
26 Pigs In Space Sport 30m

Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

20
27 ** DV8 Sport 30m

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

21
24 *** Black Op's Sport 30m

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

22
24 Storm Watch Sport 30m

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

23
17 Spooky House Trad 30m

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003