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Table of contents

1. Halfway House 23 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.946952, -26.928636

Description:© (gremlin)

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cunningly Deceptive

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003

21Mixed 25m, 2
2 Rocketsauce

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19Sport 12m
3 Tenacious D

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19Sport 12m
4 The Court Jester p1

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

14Trad 15m
5 * The Court Jester p2

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17Trad 20m
6 Emu-less

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003

22 RTrad 12m
7 * Gut Punch The Budda

Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

23Sport 12m
8 ** Maponus p1
  1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

  2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003

22Trad 12m
9 ** Maponus p2 23Sport 25m
10 * The Sword In The Stone

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

18Trad 25m
11 ** Dagda

Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

25Sport 25m
12 *** Voluptuous

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

24Sport 11m
13 ** Bargearse

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous, just L of the small banksia tree. Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009

23Sport 15m
14 *** The Elite Republican Guard

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes

24Sport 15m
15 ** Hungry Beast

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. After the first bolt (shared with Elite Rebuplican Guard) head sightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock (five more FH's) to lower-off. Steeper than it looks.

FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009

20Sport 15m
16 ** Love, Honour and Belay

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. Six FH's.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009

25Sport 16m, 6
17 * I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me

The bolted orange corner.

FA: Pat Daly, 2004

22Sport 30m
18 Switch Blade Honey

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

25Sport 30m
19 Pigs In Space

Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

26Sport 30m
20 ** DV8

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

27Sport 30m
21 *** Black Op's

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24Sport 30m
22 Storm Watch

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24Sport 30m
23 Spooky House

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 The Court Jester p1 Trad 15m
17 Spooky House Trad 30m
* The Court Jester p2 Trad 20m
18 * The Sword In The Stone Trad 25m
19 Rocketsauce Sport 12m
Tenacious D Sport 12m
20 ** Hungry Beast Sport 15m
21 Cunningly Deceptive Mixed 25m, 2
22 Emu-less Trad 12m
* I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me Sport 30m
** Maponus p1 Trad 12m
23 ** Bargearse Sport 15m
* Gut Punch The Budda Sport 12m
** Maponus p2 Sport 25m
24 *** Black Op's Sport 30m
Storm Watch Sport 30m
*** The Elite Republican Guard Sport 15m
*** Voluptuous Sport 11m
25 ** Dagda Sport 25m
** Love, Honour and Belay Sport 16m, 6
Switch Blade Honey Sport 30m
26 Pigs In Space Sport 30m
27 ** DV8 Sport 30m