Routes are listed from left to right.
Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.
|?||Caves Route Sector
NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".
|?||NE Buttress Sector
Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!
|14|| The Elite Republican Guard
Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.
|15|| Hungry Beast
A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. After the first bolt (shared with Elite Rebuplican Guard) head sightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock (five more FH's) to lower-off. Steeper than it looks.
|16|| Love, Honour and Belay
Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. Six FH's.
|17|| I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me
The bolted orange corner.
|18|| Switch Blade Honey
Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.
|19|| Pigs In Space
Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.
DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW.
|21|| Black Op's
Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).
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