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Description

NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the R branch (signposted 'East Face' rock climbers access 600m) and follow this for 400m where it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face (200m uphill). The track meets the rock between 'Carborundum Chimney' and 'Patience Crack'.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Often wet.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Start: 3m right of Patience Crack. Often wet.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin (both led), 2006

Left at the chimney 10m up.

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: 8m R of Carborundum Chimney at a big tree.

This is a great, well-protected route.

  1. 40m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock. From here, there are two options. 1. Trend L and up to ledge then continue up and R for 18m to base of crack. 2. Continue directly up through the half-chimney.

  2. 24m (13) Follow the obvious crack straight up, by layback, bridging and wall climbing. Gain stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree.

  3. 22m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge and TB. Up easy rock and some scree, then out R to join the Caves Route.

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom & Woody Milroy, 1966

The walking track meets the cliff at this point.

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

  1. 25m (17) 5FHs: From start of CC, move up and R to first FH, then blocky highsteps past 3 FH's to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

  2. 25m (16) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

  3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the steep crux section. Use your legs and don't rip off the crucial hold made of ash.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2013

FA: Nigel Joyce & Zac Trembath-pitham, 2014

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

  1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

  2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

  3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge scramble down and right some 30m along Spooky Ledge to locate the chains at the top of p3 of Remains of the Day. From there, 2 x30m and 1 x 20m gets you to the deck. Alternatively you can bush bash up and right from Spooky ledge to meet Caves Route at the Big Scrub above Cave 2

FA: Neill Lamb & Mark Andrews, 1955

First bolted route as the track begins to dip.

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, this route should remain off limits from August - November.

  1. 20m (17) - The most difficult moves on the route are found in the first few bolts which is always off-putting to some. But get through here and you're away on a grand adventure. 7 or 8 FH's to rap station.

  2. 28m (15) - Step off right and down to ledge as for Carborundum Chimney first pitch. Cross ledge and climb easy wall to high FH. Follow the FH's with good, fun climbing through some drummy rock to rap station below steep wall.

  3. 28m (16) - It's all systems go straight off the belay up the steep wall passing several FH's but it soon eases to a naturally protected crack and short chimney. On to spooky tree-covered ledge and rap station.

  4. 30m (16) - Easily up to the left of the belay to high FH but keeping right of arete to stance below steep wall. Crank your way up on good edges passing several FH's to rap station.

  5. 30m (13) - Good vertical face climbing on natural pro up the intermittent crack to a slabby finish passing 2 FH's and an old rap station to newer one on the next ledge up.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin & Bill Strachan, 2007

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1] 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting. Can be climbed as a single pitch by lowering off the anchors of First Contact, or otherwise scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor at the belay.

2] 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half height. Mind the choss before the belay.

3] 20m (21) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4a] 35m (17) Wander right of the belay, then above the lip of the cave, up steep gully and skirt under overhang and continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rapped by following the hangers.

4b] 28m (24) From belay, head up and left along ledge with thin holds. A few powerful moves to get over the lip. Above the lip, wander to the right above the belay. Continue wandering right up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge.

5] 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6] 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Phil Box, Jay McGechan, Steve Peckman 2011. 4b) Glen, Jay McGechan 2012

Rap using one of the options:

A Down Airtime Over Pumicestone (see its description for details).

B Rap back down route. From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge and trend to the right (looking back up the ridge) to then rap down to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by moving to the left i.e. not down the way you came up, you can rap to the 3rd pitch belay on an almost straight drop with an easy pull by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the belay. You can either rap to ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or rap back via the route to the top of the 1st pitch and then to ground. It's a bit of an epic getting back down due to the geology and geography of the terrain. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rap if you follow instructions.

FFA: 2011

FA: Phil Box, Jay MacGechan & Steve Kloske., 2011

This section of the cliff is called Insurrection Wall and offers a handful of moderate single pitch sport routes. Great for an afternoon.

5m L of Banished For Infidelity and first route with black hangers. 7 FHs, lower-off.

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

FA: John J O'Brien & Lee Cujes, 2013

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

Bugger all gear. Dangerous.

Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens.

  1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

  2. 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

  3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. Peregrine Falcons nest just 10 metres to the right of this pitch so best to avoid in breeding season (August to November).

  4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

  5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

  6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

FA: Lee Cujes (1, 2, 4), Phil Box (3 & 6), 2003

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