A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Caves Route Sector 6 routes in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948394, -26.926511

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Caves Route

Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB.

Start: 20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.

  1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

  2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R.

  3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again.

  4. 150m (4) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to 'Trojan', then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge.

This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.

FA: Bert Salmon, 6th Jun

4 Trad 300m 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Caves Route Direct 10 Trad 40m
3 Super Directissima 12 Trad 23m
4 The Cave 3 project (Asimov) (OPEN)

OPEN PROJECT - the line directly up the guts of cave 3. Heads up through the roof and then out onto the steep headwall to finish standing on the ledge. Will be hard!!

Set by Dan Gordon, Sam Bowman & Jonathon Schwartz, 2014

30 to 33 Mixed Project 8m, 7
5 Traverse To Cave 4 / Bertie Salmon Traverse 2 Trad 40m
6 * Caves Route VF

This is the alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney if you want to reach the north-east shoulder to climb to the summit. Starting where the track meets the rock at the half-way scrub scramble the small gully and then traverse right, passing the start of "The Big Empty" until you are on the shoulder. The traverse is easy but needs to be completed on an exposed 45° slab.

4 Trad 130m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
2 Traverse To Cave 4 Trad 40m
4 *** Caves Route Trad 300m 4
* Caves Route VF Trad 130m
10 * Caves Route Direct Trad 40m
12 Super Directissima Trad 23m
30 to 33 The Cave 3 project (Asimov) (OPEN) Mixed Project 8m, 7