Topo #3108

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Area Type
? Clemency Wall

Routes are listed from left to right.

Area Unlink area
? Halfway House

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

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? Summit Cave

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

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? Caves Route Sector
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? Carborundum Wall

NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on under "Access Issues".

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? Desperation Wall

Access as for 'Carborundum Wall' sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.

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? NE Buttress Sector

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.

Cliff Unlink area
? Celestial Wall

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

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Topo #1424

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 *** Caves Route

Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB. Start: 20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR. 1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this. 2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R. 3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again. 4. 150m (4) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to 'Trojan', then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge. This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.

4 Trad 300m 4 Unlink route
5 Traverse To Cave 4
2 Trad 40m Unlink route
2 * Caves Route Direct
10 Trad 40m Unlink route
3 Super Directissima
12 Trad 23m Unlink route
6 * Caves Route VF

This is the alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney if you want to reach the north-east shoulder to climb to the summit. Starting where the track meets the rock at the half-way scrub scramble the small gully and then traverse right, passing the start of "The Big Empty" until you are on the shoulder. The traverse is easy but needs to be completed on an exposed 45° slab.

4 Trad 130m Unlink route
? Escape from NEB

A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section. 1. 30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegatated gully with schrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag. 2. 35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).

14 Trad 70m 2 Unlink route

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