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Table of contents

1. Summit Cave 55 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.947796, -26.926809

Description:© (djbiggs)

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Overexposed 15Trad 120m
2 Overexposed DF 16Trad
3 Ronald Muck

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

21Trad 45m
4 *** Tangled Up In Blue p1

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

25Sport 30m
5 *** Tangled Up In Blue p2

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 30m
6 ** Massive Attack

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

28Trad 28m
7 Massive Attack p2 Sport Project
8 *** Back in Black

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

25Trad 20m
9 ** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

24Trad 80m
10 Raptures

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins

24Trad 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Strange Fruit

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24Sport 25m
12 Somebody Else's Weirdo 24Sport 20m
13 * Littlebro

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

24Sport 9m, 4
14 ** Punk's Not Dead

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

23Sport 16m
15 ** Four Seasons

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

22Sport 28m
16 *** Trojan

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 1966

13Trad 72m
17 Achilles

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

26Sport 10m
18 *** The Bends

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

27Sport 15m
19 *** The Beast from the East

FA: A.Donoghue

29Sport 15m
20 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

30Sport 20m
21 Staple It Together

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

20Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

26Sport 25m
23 * Hyperballad

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25Sport 15m
24 ** Morning of the Earth

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

24Sport 20m
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

22Sport 20m
26 *** Bird of Prey p2

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

25Sport 13m
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

23Sport 22m
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 23Sport 13m
29 Short And Sweet 13Trad 35m
30 ** Big Empty p1 21Sport 30m
31 Big Empty p2

FA: Gareth and Ross

21Sport 1m
32 ** Walk the Line

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

17Sport 25m
33 ** Circlet 22Sport 16m
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1

FA: Gareth?

20Sport 20m
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2

FA: Gareth?

18Sport 15m
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

18Sport 20m, 6
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 20m, 6
38 Kronos 11Trad 23m
39 Jupiter 13Trad 39m
40 Juno 13Trad 30m
41 Hercules 9Trad 30m
42 Prometheus II Traverse 8Trad 60m
43 Prometheus II 8Trad 43m
44 Prometheus II VF 11Trad 20m
45 Prometheus III 13Trad 13m
46 Prometheus II DF 18Trad 20m
47 Boags Lite 12Sport 19m, 4

CAVE 5

48 ** Seven Year Itch

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

28Sport 15m, 6
49 * Puniverse

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

23Sport 3
50 (Link Project - LC)

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

Sport Project
51 * No Membership Required

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

23Sport 10m
52 (The Big Roof Project - Lee)

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

Sport Project 20m
53 ** One Alien, four people and a tree

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

24Sport 8m, 4
54 Crikey

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

22Sport 10m
55 Groundhog Day

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

29Sport 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m
Prometheus II Traverse Trad 60m
9 Hercules Trad 30m
11 Kronos Trad 23m
Prometheus II VF Trad 20m
12 Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4
13 Juno Trad 30m
Jupiter Trad 39m
Prometheus III Trad 13m
Short And Sweet Trad 35m
*** Trojan Trad 72m
15 Overexposed Trad 120m
16 Overexposed DF Trad
17 ** Walk the Line Sport 25m
18 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2 Sport 15m
Prometheus II DF Trad 20m
The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6
20 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1 Sport 20m
Staple It Together Sport 27m
21 ** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m
Big Empty p2 Sport 1m
Ronald Muck Trad 45m
22 *** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m
** Circlet Sport 16m
Crikey Sport 10m
** Four Seasons Sport 28m
23 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1 Sport 22m
** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 Sport 13m
* No Membership Required Sport 10m
* Puniverse Sport 3
** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m
24 * Littlebro Sport 9m, 4
** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m
** One Alien, four people and a tree Sport 8m, 4
** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black Trad 80m
Raptures Trad 60m
Somebody Else's Weirdo Sport 20m
* Strange Fruit Sport 25m
25 *** Back in Black Trad 20m
*** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m
** High Definition Sport 20m, 6
* Hyperballad Sport 15m
*** Tangled Up In Blue p1 Sport 30m
*** Tangled Up In Blue p2 Sport 30m
26 Achilles Sport 10m
*** In Between Dreams Sport 25m
27 *** The Bends Sport 15m
28 ** Massive Attack Trad 28m
** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6
29 Groundhog Day Sport 16m
*** The Beast from the East Sport 15m
30 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun Sport 20m
? (Link Project - LC) Sport Project
(The Big Roof Project - Lee) Sport Project 20m
Massive Attack p2 Sport Project