A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy


Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:


The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Summit Cave 55 routes in Area

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.947796, -26.926809

Description:© (djbiggs)

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Overexposed

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

  1. 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

  2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

  3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

  4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

  5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

FA: Les Wood,Donn Groom, 30th Jul

15 Trad 120m 5
2 Overexposed DF

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

FA: John Oddie,Rick White, 1970

16 Trad
3 Ronald Muck

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

21 Trad 45m
4 *** Tangled Up In Blue p1

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

25 Sport 30m
5 *** Tangled Up In Blue p2

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

25 Sport 30m
6 ** Massive Attack

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

28 Trad 28m 2
7 Massive Attack p2 Sport Project
8 *** Back in Black

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

25 Trad 20m
9 ** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

24 Trad 80m 3
10 Raptures

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins

24 Trad 60m 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Strange Fruit

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24 Sport 25m
12 Somebody Else's Weirdo 24 Sport 20m
13 * Littlebro

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

24 Sport 9m, 4
14 ** Punk's Not Dead

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

23 Sport 16m
15 ** Four Seasons

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

22 Sport 28m
16 *** Trojan

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 12th Mar

13 Trad 72m 5
17 Achilles

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

26 Sport 10m
18 *** The Bends

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

27 Sport 15m
19 *** The Beast from the East

FA: A.Donoghue

29 Sport 15m
20 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

30 Sport 20m
21 Staple It Together

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

20 Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

26 Sport 25m
23 * Hyperballad

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25 Sport 15m
24 ** Morning of the Earth

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

24 Sport 20m
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

22 Sport 20m
26 *** Bird of Prey p2

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

25 Sport 13m
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

23 Sport 22m
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 23 Sport 13m
29 Short And Sweet 13 Trad 35m
30 ** Big Empty p1 21 Sport 30m
31 Big Empty p2

FA: Gareth and Ross

21 Sport 1m
32 ** Walk the Line

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

17 Sport 25m
33 ** Circlet 22 Sport 16m
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1

FA: Gareth?

20 Sport 20m
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2

FA: Gareth?

18 Sport 15m
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

18 Sport 20m, 6
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

25 Sport 20m, 6
38 Kronos 11 Trad 23m
39 Jupiter 13 Trad 39m
40 Juno 13 Trad 30m
41 Hercules 9 Trad 30m
42 Prometheus II Traverse 8 Trad 60m
43 Prometheus II 8 Trad 43m
44 Prometheus II VF 11 Trad 20m
45 Prometheus III 13 Trad 13m
46 Prometheus II DF 18 Trad 20m
47 Boags Lite 12 Sport 19m, 4


48 ** Seven Year Itch

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of A Kneebar Too Far at Mount Coolum.

FA: @rockyrules, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: @leecujes, 2012

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

28 Sport 15m, 6
49 * Puniverse

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

23 Sport 6m, 3
50 (Link Project - LC)

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

Sport Project
51 * No Membership Required

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right. The epic extension out the roof is a closed project.

FA: @rockyrules,@marco32, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

23 Sport 10m, 4
52 (The Big Roof Project - Lee)

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

Sport Project 20m
53 ** One Alien, four people and a tree

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

24 Sport 8m, 4
54 * Crikey

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

FA: @rockyrules,@marco32, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

22 Sport 10m, 4
55 * Groundhog Day

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms. This took Craig over 60 days of work to complete so the grade needs a thorough examination.

FA: @rockyrules, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

27 to 29 Sport 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m
Prometheus II Traverse Trad 60m
9 Hercules Trad 30m
11 Kronos Trad 23m
Prometheus II VF Trad 20m
12 Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4
13 Juno Trad 30m
Jupiter Trad 39m
Prometheus III Trad 13m
Short And Sweet Trad 35m
*** Trojan Trad 72m 5
15 ** Overexposed Trad 120m 5
16 Overexposed DF Trad
17 ** Walk the Line Sport 25m
18 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2 Sport 15m
Prometheus II DF Trad 20m
The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6
20 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1 Sport 20m
Staple It Together Sport 27m
21 ** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m
Big Empty p2 Sport 1m
Ronald Muck Trad 45m
22 *** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m
** Circlet Sport 16m
* Crikey Sport 10m, 4
** Four Seasons Sport 28m
23 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1 Sport 22m
** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 Sport 13m
* No Membership Required Sport 10m, 4
* Puniverse Sport 6m, 3
** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m
24 * Littlebro Sport 9m, 4
** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m
** One Alien, four people and a tree Sport 8m, 4
** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black Trad 80m 3
Raptures Trad 60m 3
Somebody Else's Weirdo Sport 20m
* Strange Fruit Sport 25m
25 *** Back in Black Trad 20m
*** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m
** High Definition Sport 20m, 6
* Hyperballad Sport 15m
*** Tangled Up In Blue p1 Sport 30m
*** Tangled Up In Blue p2 Sport 30m
26 Achilles Sport 10m
*** In Between Dreams Sport 25m
27 *** The Bends Sport 15m
28 ** Massive Attack Trad 28m 2
** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6
27 to 29 * Groundhog Day Sport 16m
29 *** The Beast from the East Sport 15m
30 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun Sport 20m
? (Link Project - LC) Sport Project
(The Big Roof Project - Lee) Sport Project 20m
Massive Attack p2 Sport Project