Routes are listed from left to right.
Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.
The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.
|?||Caves Route Sector
NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".
|?||NE Buttress Sector
Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!
|2|| Overexposed DF
|9|| Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
|29|| Short And Sweet
|11|| Strange Fruit
|12|| Somebody Else's Weirdo
Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,
|14|| Punk's Not Dead
|15|| Four Seasons
|18|| The Bends
|19|| The Beast from the East
|20|| A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun
|22|| In Between Dreams
Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge. Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.
|25|| Bird Of Prey p1
|26|| Bird of Prey p2
|27|| Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1
|28|| Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2
|29|| Short And Sweet
|30|| Big Empty p1
|31|| Big Empty p2
|32|| Walk the Line
|34|| My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1
|35|| My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2
|36|| The Digital Revolution
Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.
|37|| High Definition
Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.