Topo #3108

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Area Type
? Clemency Wall

Routes are listed from left to right.

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? Halfway House

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

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? Summit Cave

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

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? Caves Route Sector
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? Carborundum Wall

NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".

Area Unlink area
? Desperation Wall
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? NE Buttress Sector
Cliff Unlink area
? Celestial Wall

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

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Topo #5945

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Overexposed
15 Trad 120m Unlink route
2 Overexposed DF
16 Trad Unlink route
9 ** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black
24 Trad 80m Unlink route
10 Raptures
24 Trad 60m Unlink route
29 Short And Sweet
13 Trad 35m Unlink route

Topo #2972

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 * Strange Fruit
24 Sport 25m Unlink route
12 Somebody Else's Weirdo
24 Sport 20m Unlink route
13 * Littlebro

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

24 Sport 9m, 4 Unlink route
14 ** Punk's Not Dead
23 Sport 16m Unlink route
15 ** Four Seasons
22 Sport 28m Unlink route
16 *** Trojan
13 Trad 72m Unlink route
17 Achilles
26 Sport 10m Unlink route
18 *** The Bends
27 Sport 15m Unlink route
19 *** The Beast from the East
29 Sport 15m Unlink route
20 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun
30 Sport 20m Unlink route
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge. Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

26 Sport 25m Unlink route
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1
22 Sport 20m Unlink route
26 *** Bird of Prey p2
25 Sport 13m Unlink route
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1
23 Sport 22m Unlink route
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2
23 Sport 13m Unlink route
29 Short And Sweet
13 Trad 35m Unlink route
30 ** Big Empty p1
21 Sport 30m Unlink route
31 Big Empty p2
21 Sport 1m Unlink route
32 ** Walk the Line
17 Sport 25m Unlink route
33 ** Circlet
22 Sport 16m Unlink route
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1
20 Sport 20m Unlink route
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2
18 Sport 15m Unlink route
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

18 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

25 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #4685

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Route Grade Popularity Style
23 * Hyperballad
25 Sport 15m Unlink route
24 ** Morning of the Earth
24 Sport 20m Unlink route
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1
22 Sport 20m Unlink route
26 *** Bird of Prey p2
25 Sport 13m Unlink route
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1
23 Sport 22m Unlink route
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2
23 Sport 13m Unlink route
29 Short And Sweet
13 Trad 35m Unlink route
30 ** Big Empty p1
21 Sport 30m Unlink route
31 Big Empty p2
21 Sport 1m Unlink route
32 ** Walk the Line
17 Sport 25m Unlink route
33 ** Circlet
22 Sport 16m Unlink route
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1
20 Sport 20m Unlink route
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2
18 Sport 15m Unlink route
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

18 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

25 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge. Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

26 Sport 25m Unlink route

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