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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Access as for 'Carborundum Wall' sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.

© (Trent)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
9 Keloid Trad 45m
2
10 Wasp Trad 83m
3
12 Wasp RHV Trad 69m
4
13 Directissima Trad 98m
5
16 ** Line Of Credit Sport 70m, 23

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

  1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station.

  2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station.

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.

FA: Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman, 2004

6
15 Desperation Wall Trad 130m
7

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

8

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

9
19 * Ishoni Trad 35m
10

FA: G.Llewellin B. Strachan, 2007

11
19 Ideas Man Trad 30m

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and anchor.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Ben Carter, 2013

12
17 * Zeitgeist Sport 120m

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

  1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

  2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

  3. 45m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble up a few metres into Cave 3, then down and L into the large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Descent via the 'Caves Route' consists of easy scrambling with some optional rapping for the steeper sections.

FA: David & Ruth Reeve and a host of helpers, 2010

13
15 ** Black Angus Trad 110m

FA: Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson, 2008

14
10 ** Black Orpheus Trad 140m

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.

  3. 40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.

  4. 15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

FA: Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers, 1969

16
12 The Whiteman Trad 150m
17
14 Vagabond Trad 150m
18
8 Orpheus Trad 150m
19
10 Earthenware Trad 25m
20
4 Prometheus I Trad 120m