Desperation Wall Mostly trad climbing21 routes in area
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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.
Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.
35m 12 FHs to rap station.
35m 11 FHs to rap station.
Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.
FA: Darrin Carter & Kevin Coleman, 2004
FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007
FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007
FA: G.Llewellin B. Strachan, 2007
Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and anchor.
FFA: Ross Ferguson Ben Carter, 2013
Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.
32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.
38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.
35m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.
From final DBB it's easy to scramble up a few metres into Cave 3, then down and L into the large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Descent via the 'Caves Route' consists of easy scrambling with some optional rapping for the steeper sections.
FA: David, Ruth Reeve & a host of helpers, 2010
FA: Bill Strachan & Ross Ferguson, 2008
A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.
20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.
45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.
40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.
15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.
FA: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers, 1969
Climbs the white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. Crap pro, good rock.
Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!
A novel way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as nice as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery. Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gulley that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the Northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.
Scramble up the gully with a short steeper section into the bushes, stop when you find a shady spot or some scrub big enough to belay off.
Climb the short wall into the bushes and repeat as per pitch one.
Climb up between the shitty rock and the harder stuff to the right. Bush bash to something resembling a belay.
Move left and head in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Rope drag will guide this decision.
Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney with zero gear, top out into cave 4. Apply lotion to scratches from bush bashing and then descend by traversing left (facing cave) out of the cave to join the top of Black Orpheus. The unpleasantness of P4/5 and the traverse can be avoided by heading left at the top of P2 and linking up with Orpheus (some bad rock at the start but still about grade 4).
FA: Ron Brooks 1953, Ron Brooks, Neil Lamb & Ron Brooks, 1953