NE Buttress Sector All trad climbing12 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.
Almost all the 'NE Buttress Sector' climbs finish at the top of the buttress. There are a number of ways to descend from here:
- Follow the rough track along the northeast ridge towards the 'Tibro' summit. Descend either via the 'Caves Route' or the 'West Track' (tourist track).
- Rap down the last 3 pitches of 'Sunburnt Buttress' then rap straight down to the big tree in the gully below. One more rap off the anchor cable around the tree gets you to the ground. Two ropes required.
- Rap down 'Blabbermouth' - 7 x 30m raps.
- Rap down 'El Scorcho' - 4 x 60m raps.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start 10m L of 'The North-East Buttress'. Marked "Sbo".
FA: Wayne Meith & A. Anderson, 2005
Start at "NEB" mark.
FA: Paul Conaghan & G. Hardy, 1965
A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.
30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegatated gully with schrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag.
35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).
FA: P. Conaghan & G. Hardy, 1965
From 'The North-East Buttress' continue along the base of the cliff up the slope. After about 100m the ground levels off at an alcove about 10m wide.
Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away. All BRs are now FHs.
28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.
34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.
33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).
20m (13) Straight up past 5 BRs.
28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).
32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.
20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.
Rack: to #3 friend.
FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004
Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.
While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.
FA: Darrin Carter & Ross Ferguson, 2005
28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.
25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.
36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.
45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.
20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.
FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2000
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004