NE Buttress Sector All trad climbing

11 routes in cliff

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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.

Descent Notes

Almost all the 'NE Buttress Sector' climbs finish at the top of the buttress. There are a number of ways to descend from here:

  • Follow the rough track along the northeast ridge towards the 'Tibro' summit. Descend either via the 'Caves Route' or the 'West Track' (tourist track).
  • Rap down the last 3 pitches of 'Sunburnt Buttress' then rap straight down to the big tree in the gully below. One more rap off the anchor cable around the tree gets you to the ground. Two ropes required.
  • Rap down 'Blabbermouth' - 7 x 30m raps.
  • Rap down 'El Scorcho' - 4 x 60m raps.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

Read about the development of 'Sunburnt Buttress' in this article on qurank.com

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

About 100m along the cliff base from 'Desperation Wall' is an obvious slabby buttress with the initials "NEB" at its rightmost end.

1
21 * Ross Miller Route Trad 190m

Ross Miller Route 190m, 21 An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Bring a #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing. Access: When you reach the rock face having walked up the access track from the ring road, the Ross Miller Route starts from the ledge directly above you. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right hand side of the tree and traverse right until you see the large rock wall with an ironwood bush at the bottom. The route starts behind this bush. Route:

  1. 25m (18) (sport) Start directly behind ironwood tree, up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

  2. 25m (15) (sport) Typically Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to anchor.

  3. 20m (11) (trad) head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

  4. 25m (18) (sport) up following FH's right of blunt arete.

  5. 25m (19) (sport) engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

  6. 25m (13) (sport) climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

  7. 15m (21) (sport) left to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor.

  8. 30m (16) (sport) follow line of well spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way. To exit:

    • either traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off. or
    • rap back down in 6 pitches:
  9. 30m straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7)

  10. 40m straight down to anchor at top of 5

  11. 40m down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch 3

  12. 20m straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here

  13. 25m traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

  14. 25m to ground and scramble out the way you came in.

FA: Annett Miller, Bernie Walsh, Steve Kloske, 2013

2
23 The Kloske Conection Mixed 55m, 7

The Kloske Connection 50m, 23 Climb to the top of P3 on the Ross Miller Route and scramble 10m L to DBB, Joins the anchors of P6 RMR. I’ll be changing my name from Steve Peckman to Steve Kloske over the next few months so this will be the first of my new routes as Steve Kloske.

  1. 25m 18 Climb up very poorly protected section of rock to a single cam and wire placement from here run it out to the anchor. Anchor has 1 fixed hanger and needs gear. 25m 23 climb up bridging and jamming through rooflet on natural prow of all sorts for about 10m until the bolts (5) are reached then continue up to anchor

Set by Steve Kloske

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2013

FA: Steve Kloske, 2013

3
20 ** Sideshow Bob Trad 250m

Start 10m L of 'The North-East Buttress'. Marked "Sbo".

FA: Wayne Meith, A. Anderson, 2005

4

Start at "NEB" mark.

FA: Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy, 1965

From 'The North-East Buttress' continue along the base of the cliff up the slope. After about 100m the ground levels off at an alcove about 10m wide.

5
16 ** Blabbermouth Trad 200m

Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.

  1. 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.

  2. 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  3. 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).

  4. 20m (13) Straight up past 5 BRs.

  5. 28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).

  6. 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  7. 20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

Rack: to #3 friend.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

6
13 * Blabbermouth VS Trad 22m

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2005

7
11 Rock Garden Trad 220m
8
19 ** Sunburnt Buttress Trad 190m

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

  1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

  2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

  3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

  4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

  5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

  6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

9
21 ** El Scorcho Trad 110m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2005

10
18 ** Tommy Dodd Trad 100m

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

11

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004