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Description

Neither shady or a glen, this almost north facing black slab was where sport climbing came to Tibrogargan in the 1990s. Most of these routes are quite runout compared to modern sport routes, and a light rack of gear is worth having. All the bolts are in good condition.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right for about 10 minutes or so.

These routes are situated on a compact wall named Shadow Glen just R of Rock Garden. The routes are a mixture of bolted and naturally protected routes on great rock. A small cave at the far R of the crag can be used as a rain shelter. The first routes are on an obvious detached pillar with FH’s.

Descent notes

Most routes have lower-off anchors, however you can top out and walk down the right hand side of the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View historical timeline

Discovered in March 1996 by a teen Neil Monteith. The routes were mostly equipped with either laborious handrilling, or the novel use of a portable 240v generator, long extension cord and power drill. Without a car, Neil took this equipment on the train from Brisbane and walked it to the crag.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

On the left side of this crag is this prominent pillar.

The far left route on the pillar on left edge of crag. Boulder start to crack, up this to stance. Climb the face above past FH to juggy top. Tree belay. Dirty at the start.

FA: Neil Monteith & Stephen Monteith, 1997

Good stuff! Starts at the same point as Peeping Tom, but traverse directly right to first of three black FHs. There is a pronounced crux lunge at 2nd FH. Rap chains at top.

FA: Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones & Neil Monteith, 2000

Tough little unit. Starts 2m right of Kitch. Thin and technical climbing past two FHs to stance. #1 Friend or yellow Alien to chains.

Set by Neil Monteith, 1996

FA: ross ferguson gareth llewelyn, 2005

The first route bolted at Shadow Glen and named after the housing estate that was bulldozed into the base of Ngungun that year. Starts 2m right of Sweet Flower Girl. A technical wake-up call. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to 2nd FH. Traverse left and up to big jug. Slam in #2 Friend behind jug and climb up to crack (cam). Traverse right and up to chains.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

First two bolts of Suburban Sprawl then head right to finish up Domestos. First lead ascent is unknown - but has been done several times.

FA: Karl Curnow (Toprope), 1996

Dangerous and dirty. Start 2m right of Suburban Sprawl. Up very thin crack (RPs) to slabby face above. Up this boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & karl curnow, 1996

This is the large black slab 5m right of the pillar. There is a smattering of high first bolts visible from below.

Old school ground up tradding on good rock. Be solid at the grade before attempting this. Start on wall about 10m right of the pillar at odd looking rock face. Up on good positive edges with marginal protection for 10m. Keep climbing upwards past cracks until on ledge with big loose block. Climb up the wall on the right side if this to slab and tree belay on left.

FA: Neil Monteith & karl curnow, 1996

Despite appearances - this is not a sport route! There is a long runout between the first two bolts, and the top half is entirely trad on small marginal gear.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Start 10m R of 'Highlander'.

Solo up the moderately difficult slab to 2 FHs at the same (ridiculously high!) height. Clip the L FH then trend L clipping 2 more FHs. After the 3rd FH head sharply R to the 4th and final FH, then straight up to DBB shared with 'The Black Planet'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie & Karl Curnow, 1996

Start at the 'Brick Boxes' DBB.

Continue up wall on marginal protection to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Karl Curnow, 1996

Start as for 'Brick Boxes'.

On (finally!) reaching the 2 FHs, clip the R one and follow the line of 3 more FHs to the DBB shared with 'Brick Boxes'. Crux is at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1996

Sustained and technical and probably the best route at Shadow Glen. Start 4m R of TBP below obvious L leaning thin crack. Up crack to top (gear) then runout traverse R and up to FH. Climb unlikely wall above (FH) on surprisingly good holds to slabby stance. Continue up past two more FH's to lower off anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'.

Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' DBB. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR. Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

FA: Ana Greer & Neil Monteith, 1996

Start at crack 3m R of 'Armageddon'.

Follow the curving crack to the 'Armageddon' DBB.

FA: Karl Curnow & Neil Monteith, 1996

Activity

Check out what is happening in Shadow Glen.