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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Access as for Carborundum Wall sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right for about 10 minutes or so.

These routes are situated on a compact wall named Shadow Glen just R of Rock Garden. The routes are a mixture of bolted and naturally protected routes on great rock. A small cave at the far R of the crag can be used as a rain shelter. The first routes are on an obvious detached pillar with FH’s.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View historical timeline

Discovered in March 1996 by a teen Neil Monteith. The routes were mostly equipped with either laborious handrilling, or the novel use of a portable 240v generator, long extension cord and power drill. Without a car, Neil took this equipment on the train from Brisbane and walked it to the crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: ross ferguson gareth llewelyn

Start 10m R of 'Highlander'.

Solo up the moderately difficult slab to 2 FHs at the same (ridiculously high!) height. Clip the L FH then trend L clipping 2 more FHs. After the 3rd FH head sharply R to the 4th and final FH, then straight up to DBB shared with 'The Black Planet'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie & Karl Curnow, 1996

Start at the 'Brick Boxes' DBB.

Continue up wall on marginal protection to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Karl Curnow, 1996

Start as for 'Brick Boxes'.

On (finally!) reaching the 2 FHs, clip the R one and follow the line of 3 more FHs to the DBB shared with 'Brick Boxes'. Crux is at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1996

Sustained and technical and probably the best route at Shadow Glen. Start 4m R of TBP below obvious L leaning thin crack. Up crack to top (gear) then runout traverse R and up to FH. Climb unlikely wall above (FH) on surprisingly good holds to slabby stance. Continue up past two more FH's to lower off anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'.

Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' DBB. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR. Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

FA: Ana Greer & Neil Monteith, 1996

Start at crack 3m R of 'Armageddon'.

Follow the curving crack to the 'Armageddon' DBB.

FA: Karl Curnow & Neil Monteith, 1996

Activity

Check out what is happening in Shadow Glen.