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Description

As Wayne's World is on the southern face there is no sun all day from mid March till early November. During these shaded times it is best to give it about 2 days to dry after rain. Most routes are fully bolted but take a light rack for the mixed routes (I have marked these and listed what gear to use). Take about 10 draws and bolt plates and I recommend some 10mm plates as some of the bolts are a bit fat. As with all Glasshouse destinations bring the Aerogard. Development is continuing so keep off the projects please.

I would like to thank Height Dynamics for donating the anchor stations, the thoughtful few that donated bolts, and the handful of dedicated climbers that helped me develop this area. Play safe! Wayne.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Google Map of Mt Beerwah

From the newly named Steve Irwin Way turn into Barrs Rd (which is just past 'The Glasshouse' Mountains Holiday Village) and continue past 'Mt Tibrogargan' to the Old Gympie Rd intersection. Turn left here then turn right at the Glasshouse- Woodford Rd. Continue on to the 'Glasshouse Mountains' Tourist 'Lookout'. Pass this and keep going and onto the gravel road for another 200 meters then turn right into Connection Rd. Follow this for about 3 kilometers till the third locked gate on the right. Park cars here. Follow the track downwards for about 10 minutes (ignoring the track on the left) till you reach a very small car park and big knobby grey gum on your left with a big log behind it, and a bigger knobby grey gum off the track on the right. From here turn left and follow the faint track and some pink markers for another 15 minutes till you reach the base of the mountain. You have made it!

Routes are listed from right to left...

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Gas Works DS Sport 26m

Start a couple of meters right of the "GW" mark. Up to carrot, climb continues up and left joining Gas Works.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

2
12 Gas Works Sport 26m, 5
  1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

3
13 Megga Happy Ending Trad 25m

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter, 2005

4
14 As If Trad 25m
  1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter., 2005

5
12 Mr. Biggg Sport 14m, 2

2 bolts to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Max Cruz., 2006

6
16 No Way Trad 23m

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

FFA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos., 2005

7
16 * Yes Way Sport 23m, 5

Straight up then keep overhang on your right, continue onto chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Alex Cruz., 2005

8
16 * We're Not Worthy Sport 58m

You will need to trail a rope to get off this one.

  1. 23m (16) Hard start to F/H, then follow left trending line to chains (optional small Alien Cam in crack). (March 2014 update: bring gardening tools if you have any intention of placing an Alien)

  2. 35m (16) Cruxy off the belay then at the 3rd bolt climb leftwards and up to pick up the line of left trending bolts to chains. Keep to the left of the small grassy bush near the top. Easy climbing in top section. Alternatively for those of you who don't want to trail a rope. Start as original then at the 3rd bolt head straight up to chains.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth. (Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, pitch 1), 2005

9
18 * Party On Dude Trad 23m

Blast up wide crack passing first bolt to good medium hex out left. Thin and sustained past next 2 bolts before the going get easier past another bolt, continue on and clip the last bolt of Were Not Worthy. Great at the grade. 5 bolts + medium hex.

Start: Start-crack line left of We're Not Worthy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

10
  1. 20m (17) Climb line to chains, keeping bolts on your right. (If the bolts are on your left it is only a 16)

  2. -m (-) (project)

FA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos., 2006

11
17 Bite Me Trad 22m

Follow right trending line to chains above No 'Stairway to Heaven'.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst., 2006

12
18 ** White Castle Sport 24m

Follow line to chains under roof. Fun move off last bolt.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth., 2006

13
16 Excellent Sport 30m

Great moves for the grade.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst, 2006

14
19 Party Time Sport 30m

Straight up to chains. A tad bold.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst., 2006

15
13 It Will Be Mine p2 Mixed 22m, 4

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

16
16 It Will Be Mine Trad 52m
  1. 30m (16) Was bolted on lead. Pass 4 bolts, then gear to chains. 4 bolts + trad. (Medium hex and big cam).

  2. 22m (13) Was bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 bolts to chains.

  3. -m (-) project.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth (Pitch 1: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter), 2005

17
19 Dream Weaver Trad 31m

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow bolts to chains. Last bolt needs a big bolt plate. Fun thought provoking moves. 7 bolts + optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt to ease the excitement.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

18
18 ** Game On Trad 32m

7 bolts + yellow alien cam.

Up easily past 2 token bolts, then things get a bit more serious.Between the 4th and 5th bolt place cam, but if you are feeling bold blast past this to the next bolt. Work your way up the flake to chains above 'No Honk'.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

19
17 No Honk Trad 57m
  1. 32m (17) Follow line of 8 bolts to chains on spacious ledge. A one move wonder, the rest of the climb is fairly easy.

  2. 25m (13) 4 bolts + trad. Was bolted on lead. Supplement line of bolts with small to medium hexes.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

20
13 No Honk p2 Mixed 25m, 4

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

21
13 Extreme Close Up Trad 31m

Start at small featured groove placing gear then follow right trending line of bolts to chains with another small groove for gear between the first and second bolt. Shares the last 2 bolts with 'No Honk'. 5 bolts + trad. 'Small' hexes and medium to large wires. (For an easy multi pitch continue up pitch 2 of No Honk)

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

22
14 Foxy Lady Trad 28m

Start at featured flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Up flake to bolt, then up and left to gear. Continue straight up to chains. A fun climb with an easy middle section. 4 bolts + trad (Small hexes)

FA: Wayne Mieth & Debra Mieth, 2007

26
11 The Nut Sport 22m

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

FA: Debra & Wayne Mieth, 2007

27
10 Burnt Cookies Sport 28m

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

FA: unknown (climbed and graded by Wayne and Debra), 2000

28

project

Start: Just left of previous climb.

29

project

31
15 Gas Works Direct Sport 26m

Hard start then easy climbing to fun top section. 5 Bolts.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

32

(Project) crack corner system on left end of wall.