A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Glasshouse Mountains 658 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.914121, -26.918100

Unique Features And Strengths:

Something for everyone, from short hard sport climbs to long easy trad adventures and everything in between.

Description:

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Access Issues:

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. Rocky Creek scout camp near Landsborough has been recommended as a good cheap place to camp. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

Ethic:

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History:

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

1.1. Mt Tibrogargan 266 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.946609, -26.927205

Description:

The most popular mountain in the glasshouses for rock climbing. The big monkey-looking one near the highway. Sport and trad climbing. Single and multi-pitch. Memorable positions.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Travelling north after taking the 'Glasshouse Mountains' Tourist Route off the Bruce 'Highway', drive for 6.5 km to a L turn onto Caves Ln, marked 'Forestry Nursery' (before reaching the turn-off for the Glasshouse Township). Take it. Take second L under the railway bridge onto Evans Rd, then turn L again onto Berteaus Rd. Follow this with the nursery initially on your right, and then on both sides of you. Take the signposted L-turn towards 'Mt Tibrogargan' (small knee-high green-and-yellow sign just beyond the nursery yard; sandy dirt track). You'll pass two more identical signs before reaching a carpark on the L (1.3km from the main road turnoff).

1.1.1. Slider Wall 50 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.945977, -26.928669

Description:

Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Fires of Jealousy

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: 2006

10Trad 25m
2 Blowing Bubbles

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: 1999

17Sport 15m
3 You win some you lose some

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright, Peta Barrett

27Sport 15m
4 ** Monkey Magic

Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Crimpy climbing. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin, Gary Meyrick, 1999

23Sport 10m, 4
5 * Magictrip

A link-up, linking the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic before heading right and finishing up Tripitaka.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

23Sport 20m, 7
6 * Tripitaka

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

23Sport 14m
7 Pigsy

Stickclip recommended. Five FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: R Ferguson, G Llewellin, S Goldner, A Dougal, 2004

21Sport 12m
8 * The Minx And The Slug

Reversy-traversy

Start: At Something about Sandy

FA: 2007

23Sport 12m
9 Something About Sandy

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

19Sport 13m, 5
10 The Horse

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

16Sport 12m, 4
11 * Monster Master (link up)

A link up.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts beforing heading right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

FA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2007

24Sport 20m
12 * Such A Nice Monster

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

FA: G Llewellin, M Smith, R Ferguson, 2004

15Sport 15m
13 * The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

21Sport 13m
14 * Even Monsters Can Be People

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

24Sport 14m, 7
15 ** The Vampire Master

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

FA: Ross Ferguson, Cass Crane, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

24Sport 10m
16 A Shadow So Huge

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: 2007

21Sport 8m
17 * Outrageous Coincidences

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 8m
18 unknown

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

15Trad 30m

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the fixed ropes up and around this section (a few minutes scramble) to arrive on the relatively flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

19 ** Watermark

FA: Gareth Llewellin

V6Boulder 8m
20 Procrastinator

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 17m
21 ** Procrastislider

Start up Procastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2007

22Sport 16m
22 * Procrastihowler

A link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

24Sport 20m
23 ** Procrastiwailer

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2005

26Sport 23m
24 ** Vigorous Procrastination

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

27Sport
25 ** The Forty Metre Mile

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel, Lee Cujes, 2006

28Sport 38m
26 *** The Expedition

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

28Sport 40m, 24
27 Pandora

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2009

FA: 2009

29Sport 42m, 25
28 *** Departures

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: Ross Ferguson, Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

29Sport 42m, 25
29 *** Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: 2008

22Sport 16m
30 Swinger

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

18Sport 19m
31 *** Squealer

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the frst raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23Sport 18m, 6
32 ** Squealer (pre 2005)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

23Sport 21m
33 *** Madder

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 15m
34 *** Howler VF 25Sport 16m
35 *** Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

24Sport 16m, 5
36 *** Wowler

Linkup, start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

25Sport 18m, 5
37 ** Wailer

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Start: Start as for 'Howler'. Now has it's own first bolt for days when it's busy.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

25Sport 18m, 4
38 *** Chain Reaction

Wailer into Dr Pinocchio into The Overseer. Classic pumper!

27Sport 30m
39 *** Hybrid Vigour

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

27Sport 24m
40 ** The Final Piece

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 17m, 6
41 ** Geppetto(Final Piece into Overseer)

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2008

25Trad 30m
42 ** Doctor Pinocchio 24Trad 20m
43 ** Pinocchio's Extension

Doctor Pinocchio into The overseer. Pumper.

26Sport 28m
44 ** Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

21Sport 27m
45 Overseer RHV 24Sport 30m

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

46 What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2004

22Sport 8m
47 Monkey Swallows The Universe

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

FA: 2006

14Trad 15m
48 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

12Trad 20m

These 2 climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

49 Branigan's Law

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan and Natalie

21Sport 15m
50 * The Robot Devil

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

20Sport 15m

1.1.2. Porcelain Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.946720, -26.928593

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Floater

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

21Mixed 20m, 7
2 Prairie Doggin

FA: Lee Cujes, Duncan Steel, 2007

23Sport 12m, 4
3 (Project) Unknown 12m
4 Dumptruck 24Sport 12m, 6
5 Ripple 22Sport 23m, 7
6 Rattle 18Sport 25m

1.1.3. Celestial Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.946902, -26.928754

Description:© (gremlin)

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with only one 60m rope, although you'll have to carefully plan your abseils to avoid getting stranded. Two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Troposphere p1

Start about 30 metres to the west of the climbers access track. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

15Sport 30m
2 Troposphere p2

Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

17Sport 15m
3 * Troposphere p3

This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

FFA: Phil box, 2007

FA: Phil Box, 2007

18Sport 15m
4 Troposphere p4

Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

15Sport 25m
5 Troposphere p5

Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

16Sport 30m
6 C Section

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name.

Start: At the top of pitch 1 of 'Troposphere'

FA: Phil Box, JJ O'Brien, 2007

18Sport 25m
7 Rescision

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

19Sport 15m
8 Heliosphere

Up the slab passing about ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

14Sport 35m
9 * Zenith

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

24Sport 25m
10 * Vernal Equinox

The line of 11 FH's directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

22Sport 28m
11 ** Latitudes

A long, exciting pitch, and probably a bit stiff for 21, but we don't want to have every route graded 22.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Lee Cujes

22Sport 35m
12 Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall, at the small rock cairn. Marked 'A'.

  1. 35m (16) At rock cairn climb straight up until first FH becomes visible. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L.

  2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on big choss ledge.

  3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

  4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

16Sport 35m
13 ** Voyager p2 22Sport 12m
14 ** Voyager p3

All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch as for 'Aphelion'.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it\'s a tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse. Walk up and then R to 'Halfway House' terrace, or descend rope traverse to top of 'Aphelion' and rap with two 60 metre ropes.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Cam Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

23Sport 100m
15 Voyager p4 17Sport 30m
16 * Aphelion p2 21Sport 12m
17 *** Aphelion p3

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2004

22Sport 30m
18 * Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3 22Sport 10m
19 ** Rubicon p1

Start: 10m L, below first FH. Marked 'R'.

  1. 45m (18) 12 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

  2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

  3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2004

18Sport 45m
20 *** Rubicon p2

FA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box

22Sport 30m

1.1.4. Clemency Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.947516, -26.928656

Description:© (gremlin)

Routes are listed from left to right.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Access as for 'Celestial Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for five minutes, walking over a gully paved with large rocks. 10m past the gully, turn R on a small foot track past a huge white gum. Follow this track for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'. Follow the rock up and right for one minute or so to get to 'Clemency Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Clemency

Description kindly supplied by Ted Cais (updated by Lee).

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the State for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

  1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

  2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 50m rap to ground).

  3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

  4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

  5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

  6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field. A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

FFA: Unknown.

FA: FA Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

16Trad 230m
2 Sent From Above

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

23Sport 12m
3 Apricots

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2006

16Trad 28m
4 * The Mace

3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation.

FA: Phil Box, Lee Skidmore, 2002

22Trad 18m
5 ** Alienation

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, 2002

20Trad 18m
6 ** Divergence

A rope-stretching pitch. Starts directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up. Up 4m to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge (FH). Steep corner through bulge, then follow LLR up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the PR and white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge (double rings at base).

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2002

19Trad 20m
7 Tested Twisticle (left)

FA: Ben Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

17Trad 32m
8 * Tested Twisticle (right)

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ben Carter, 2005

18Trad 35m
9 *** The Simon Vos Memorial

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Rob Saunders, 2006

27Sport 18m
10 *** Caritas

FA: Lee Skidmore Phil Box, 2004

22Sport 18m
11 * Guenevere

Start: 6m L of Lancelot.

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

  1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

  2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

  3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box, Samantha Coles, 2003

17Trad 90m
12 Lancelot 15Trad 90m
13 * Dreadnought

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

  1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

  3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

  4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

  5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

  6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

  7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

  8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

  9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

  10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

  11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

  12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1970

16Trad 380m
14 Dreadnought VF 18Trad 75m

1.1.5. Halfway House 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.946952, -26.928636

Description:© (gremlin)

Hosting some superb routes in a fabulous position, this wall is located 90m off the deck on Tibro's East face (on 'Clemency' Terrace). It can be reached various ways, such as via the first three pitches of 'Clemency' or Lancelot (trad), The Twisticle Connection (three pitch mixed) or 'Aphelion' (four pitch sport). As you walk up to the base of the wall from Clemency's third pitch belay and rap anchor you'll see a 1m roof at head height. This is a landmark for locating routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cunningly Deceptive

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill. Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to rap station on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes, 2003

21Mixed 25m, 2
2 Rocketsauce

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join TD to finish.

Start: Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19Sport 12m
3 Tenacious D

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip rap station on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2007

19Sport 12m
4 The Court Jester p1

Bouldery moves off the deck to good holds. Trend R up obvious ramp/weakness. Negotiate shrubbery to arrive at large triangle ledge. Shared rap station on R end of ledge. The two FH's leading up from here are for Maponus’ second pitch (23).

14Trad 15m
5 * The Court Jester p2

Continue up corner 3m, step L into next corner and up for 4m. Step L out of corner and climb over short steep bit (crux). Walk easily up slab to find rap station underneath large roof. 30m rap to the terrace.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17Trad 20m
6 Emu-less

Start: Directly behind the rectolotomy tree. Boulder up over the roof, then up past two FH's on the front of the pillar. Up and over on to the slab (gear on L) then to the anchors on the triangle ledge.

FFA: James Pfrunder, Phil Box, Pat Daly, 2003

22 RTrad 12m
7 * Gut Punch The Budda

Start: At the landmark roof. The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner above past four FH's to Jester?s rap station on ledge.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

23Sport 12m
8 ** Maponus p1
  1. 12m (22) The arching crackline on natural gear. Finishes on the large triangle ledge (with Jester's rap station).

  2. 25m (23) Directly above belay. Two FH's protect a few gut-busting moves on small crimps. After that, head up and through placing gear to pull on to easy terrain. R and up on slab for about 15m to spiky bush ledge which hides rap station. 35m rap to the terrace, or short rap to Dagda anchors, then 25m to ground.

Start: Start: 3m R of 'Gut Punch The Budda'. The first pitch draws the stars.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Phil Box, 2003

22Trad 12m
9 ** Maponus p2 23Sport 25m
10 * The Sword In The Stone

Start: At Jester's rap station atop pitch one of the original. Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake (above the 24 section). Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of original.

FFA: Phil Box, Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

18Trad 25m
11 ** Dagda

Climb Maponus' first pitch and then directly up past three spaced FH's to station.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

25Sport 25m
12 *** Voluptuous

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak. A high pull-on jug (FH), then perfect finger slots lead to the second of five FH’s. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge (rap station). A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three FH's - has proved more popular now with five.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Phil Box, 2003

24Sport 11m
13 ** Bargearse

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous, just L of the small banksia tree. Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2009

23Sport 15m
14 *** The Elite Republican Guard

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge. Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated rap station.

FFA: Phil Box, Lee Cujes

24Sport 15m
15 ** Hungry Beast

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. After the first bolt (shared with Elite Rebuplican Guard) head sightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock (five more FH's) to lower-off. Steeper than it looks.

FFA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson A.Jones, 2009

20Sport 15m
16 ** Love, Honour and Belay

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse. Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall. Six FH's.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2009

25Sport 16m, 6
17 * I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me

The bolted orange corner.

FA: Pat Daly, 2004

22Sport 30m
18 Switch Blade Honey

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins Pat's route after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

25Sport 30m
19 Pigs In Space

Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. 8 or 9 bolts? Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

26Sport 30m
20 ** DV8

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting. 8 bolts. Also finishes same as for SW.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

27Sport 30m
21 *** Black Op's

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then the anchor is up R (same as SW).

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24Sport 30m
22 Storm Watch

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line. The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn

24Sport 30m
23 Spooky House

Climb D's corner to the top of corner. Instead of stepping R, step L into another gently overhanging corner, climb through bulge and head straight up 15m looking for SW's anchors. Bad gear in 2nd half on crumbly rock.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2003

17Trad 30m

1.1.6. Carborundum Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.948112, -26.927447

Description:

NOTE: Remains Of The Day has nesting peregrines on it. Please stay off this route from August through to November 2011. For further info, contact QPWS Glass House Mtns: 54943983 or follow the thread on www.qurank.com under "Access Issues".

Approach:© (gremlin)

Opposite the carpark is a signposted walking track. Walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the R branch (signposted 'East Face' rock climbers access 600m) and follow this for 400m where it's possible to break L on a smaller track past a Warning sign. Take this, which angles up toward the middle of the east face (200m uphill). The track meets the rock between 'Carborundum Chimney' and 'Patience Crack'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Faith 12Trad 100m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Every Day I Start To Ooze

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Often wet.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

21Trad 18m
3 * Liquid Skin

Start: 3m right of Patience Crack. Often wet.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin (both led), 2006

23Trad 18m
4 ** Patience Crack VS

Left at the chimney 10m up.

13Trad 96m
5 * Patience Crack

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: 8m R of Carborundum Chimney at a big tree.

This is a great, well-protected route.

  1. 40m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock. From here, there are two options. 1. Trend L and up to ledge then continue up and R for 18m to base of crack. 2. Continue directly up through the half-chimney.

  2. 24m (13) Follow the obvious crack straight up, by layback, bridging and wall climbing. Gain stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree.

  3. 22m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge and TB. Up easy rock and some scree, then out R to join the Caves Route.

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, Woody Milroy, 1966

15Trad 86m

The walking track meets the cliff at this point.

6 * Phoenix

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

  1. 25m (17) 5FHs: From start of CC, move up and R to first FH, then blocky highsteps past 3 FH's to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

  2. 25m (16) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

  3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the steep crux section. Use your legs and don't rip off the crucial hold made of ash.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham, Nigel Joyce, 2013

FA: Nigel Joyce, Zac Trembath-pitham, 2014

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, Nigel Joyce, 11th May

16 to 21Sport 70m, 21
7 * Carborundum Chimney

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

  1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

  2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

  3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the 'Caves Route' above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit.

FA: Neill Lamb, Mark Andrews, 1955

11Trad 82m
8 ** Remains Of The Day

First bolted route as the track begins to dip.

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, this route should remain off limits from August - November.

  1. 20m (17)

  2. 28m (15)

  3. 28m (16)

  4. 30m (16)

  5. 30m (13)

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Bill Strachan, 2007

17Trad 150m
9 Banished For Infidelity

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

  1. 30m (17) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting. Can be climbed as a single pitch by lowering off the anchors of First Contact, or otherwise scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor at the belay.

  2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at half height. Mind the choss just before the belay.

  3. 20m (20) Up through some interesting rock to amazing roof, ease around corner to be confronted with some delicate manoeuvers to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge (alternatively, this pitch goes direct through the roof at 24).

  4. 35m (17) Wanders right of the belay above the lip of the cave, up steep gully and skirt under overhang and continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right, up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rapped by following the hangers.

  5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the less than inspiring rock. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

  6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

FFA: 2011

FA: Phil Box, Jay McGechan, Steve Kloske., 2011

20Sport 170m

This section of the cliff is called Insurrection Wall and offers a handful of moderate single pitch sport routes. Great for an afternoon.

10 First Contact

5m L of Banished For Infidelity and first route with black hangers. 7 FHs, lower-off.

20Sport 20m, 7
11 * Into Darkness

2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.

FA: John J O'Brien, Lee Cujes, 2013

20Sport 18m, 7
12 Insurrection

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

18Sport 25m, 7
13 ** Insurrection VS

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

21Sport 28m, 8
14 * Nine Month Sojourn

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

20Sport 25m, 8
15 Leaving On A Jet Plane

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

20Sport 25m, 8
16 Steaming

Bugger all gear. Dangerous.

16Trad 60m
17 ** Airtime Over Pumicestone

Take wires and SLCDs to #3, with a strong emphasis on small SLCDs such as aliens.

  1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

  2. 30m (18) Take lots of small SLCDs. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

  3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L.

  4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

  5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

  6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

FA: Lee Cujes (1, 2, 4), Phil Box (3, 6), 2003

21Trad 250m

1.1.7. Caves Route Sector 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948394, -26.926511

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Caves Route

Queenslands own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). With the recent addition of two rap stations, it provides an easy, safer E-face descent than scrambling. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. To start, scramble up vegetated ledges following worn track to below wall with gully on L side. Up the gully to top and TB.

Start: 20m R of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.

  1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

  2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R.

  3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again.

  4. 150m (4) Easy option (avoiding chimney). Scamper up L to 'Trojan', then walk R under Big Empty to scramble (easy but quite exposed) to the summit ridge.

This is the true line, but a tree that helped climbers climb the chimney is no longer there. It's now a stern crank (perhaps 15 or so) to get established in the chimney. If you want to do this pitch, walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibro.

FA: Bert Salmon, 6th Jun

4Trad 300m
2 * Caves Route Direct 10Trad 40m
3 Super Directissima 12Trad 23m
4 Traverse To Cave 4 / Bertie Salmon Traverse 2Trad 40m
5 Caves Route Alternative

This is the alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney if you want to reach the north-east shoulder to climb to the summit. Starting where the track meets the rock at the half-way scrub scramble the small gully and then traverse right, passing the start of "The Big Empty" until you are on the shoulder. The traverse is easy but needs to be completed on an exposed 45° slab.

4Trad

1.1.8. Summit Cave 55 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.947796, -26.926809

Description:© (djbiggs)

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Overexposed 15Trad 120m
2 Overexposed DF 16Trad
3 Ronald Muck

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

21Trad 45m
4 *** Tangled Up In Blue p1

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

25Sport 30m
5 *** Tangled Up In Blue p2

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

25Sport 30m
6 ** Massive Attack

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

28Trad 28m
7 Massive Attack p2 Sport Project
8 *** Back in Black

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

25Trad 20m
9 ** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

24Trad 80m
10 Raptures

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins

24Trad 60m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Strange Fruit

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24Sport 25m
12 Somebody Else's Weirdo 24Sport 20m
13 * Littlebro

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

24Sport 9m, 4
14 ** Punk's Not Dead

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

23Sport 16m
15 ** Four Seasons

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

22Sport 28m
16 *** Trojan

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 1966

13Trad 72m
17 Achilles

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

26Sport 10m
18 *** The Bends

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

27Sport 15m
19 *** The Beast from the East

FA: A.Donoghue

29Sport 15m
20 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

30Sport 20m
21 Staple It Together

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

20Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** In Between Dreams

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

26Sport 25m
23 * Hyperballad

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

25Sport 15m
24 ** Morning of the Earth

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

24Sport 20m
25 *** Bird Of Prey p1

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

22Sport 20m
26 *** Bird of Prey p2

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

25Sport 13m
27 Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

23Sport 22m
28 ** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 23Sport 13m
29 Short And Sweet 13Trad 35m
30 ** Big Empty p1 21Sport 30m
31 Big Empty p2

FA: Gareth and Ross

21Sport 1m
32 ** Walk the Line

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

17Sport 25m
33 ** Circlet 22Sport 16m
34 *** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1

FA: Gareth?

20Sport 20m
35 ** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2

FA: Gareth?

18Sport 15m
36 The Digital Revolution

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

18Sport 20m, 6
37 ** High Definition

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 20m, 6
38 Kronos 11Trad 23m
39 Jupiter 13Trad 39m
40 Juno 13Trad 30m
41 Hercules 9Trad 30m
42 Prometheus II Traverse 8Trad 60m
43 Prometheus II 8Trad 43m
44 Prometheus II VF 11Trad 20m
45 Prometheus III 13Trad 13m
46 Prometheus II DF 18Trad 20m
47 Boags Lite 12Sport 19m, 4

CAVE 5

48 ** Seven Year Itch

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

28Sport 15m, 6
49 * Puniverse

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

23Sport 3
50 (Link Project - LC)

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

Sport Project
51 * No Membership Required

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

23Sport 10m
52 (The Big Roof Project - Lee)

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

Sport Project 20m
53 ** One Alien, four people and a tree

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

24Sport 8m, 4
54 Crikey

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

22Sport 10m
55 Groundhog Day

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

29Sport 16m

1.1.9. Desperation Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948773, -26.926131

Approach:© (Trent)

Access as for 'Carborundum Wall' sector (east face track), then follow the rock apron down and right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Keloid 9Trad 45m
2 Wasp 10Trad 83m
3 Wasp RHV 12Trad 69m
4 Directissima 13Trad 98m
5 ** Line Of Credit

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

  1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station.

  2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station.

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here.

FA: Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman, 2004

16Sport 70m, 23
6 Desperation Wall 15Trad 130m
7 *** Straight to the Pool Room

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

21Trad 30m
8 ** Pool Room JSV (Jousting Sticks Variant)

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

23Trad 8m
9 * Ishoni 19Trad 35m
10 * Tell Him He's Dreaming

FA: G.Llewellin B. Strachan, 2007

18Trad 29m
11 Ideas Man

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and anchor.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Ben Carter, 2013

19Trad 30m
12 * Zeitgeist

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

  1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

  2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

  3. 45m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble up a few metres into Cave 3, then down and L into the large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Descent via the 'Caves Route' consists of easy scrambling with some optional rapping for the steeper sections.

FA: David & Ruth Reeve and a host of helpers, 2010

17Sport 120m
13 ** Black Angus

FA: Bill Strachan, Ross Ferguson, 2008

15Trad 110m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Black Orpheus

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.

  3. 40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.

  4. 15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

FA: Sid Tanner, Andrew Spiers, 1969

10Trad 140m
15 Black Orpheus Variant 11Trad 35m
16 The Whiteman 12Trad 150m
17 Vagabond 14Trad 150m
18 Orpheus 8Trad 150m
19 Earthenware 10Trad 25m
20 Prometheus I 4Trad 120m

1.1.10. Candy Mountain 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.948956, -26.925500

Description:

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Approach:

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff.

History:

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, Zac Trembath and Nigel Woodward in December 2013.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kind to be Cruel

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. Crap waste of bolts will be chopped in next couple of days.

Set

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

5Sport 12m
2 Cruel to be Kind

Crap waste of bolts will be chopped in next couple of days

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

4Sport 12m
3 Dancing in the Rain

Crap waste of bolts will be chopped in next couple of days

Set by zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

3Sport 12m
4 The Mgical Liopleurodon

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

15Sport 12m
5 This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

17Sport 12m
6 Charlie

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

18Sport 12m
7 More Smart More Safe

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

15Sport 12m
8 After Dinner Delight

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

14Sport 12m
9 Critter Christmas

Starts in the "cave". Low first bolt protects the crux, second bolt is well hidden up to the left. Tend right at the top to the 'Banana King' anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17Sport 12m, 5
10 Banana King

Start up between the two small trees on great holds all the way to the top.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward, Steve Kloske, 2013

14Sport 12m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Cookie Monster

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward, Steve Kloske, 2013

18Sport 12m, 5
12 ** Lichen the Candy

Follows the crack up through the green patch. Shares anchors with 'The Real Rainbow Unicorn'.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske, 2013

17Sport 12m, 6
13 The Real Rainbow Unicorn

Start in front of the comfy belay tree.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske, 2013

15Sport 12m, 5
14 Glove Slap

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

14Sport 12m, 5
15 One Eyed Wanderer

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

18Sport 12m
16 Old Elvis

Up to the left of the orange streak

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

17Sport 12m
17 Papa Smurf

Up to the right of the orange streak

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

19Sport 12m
18 Fairy Floss

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

16Sport 12m
19 Happy Pants

One hard move.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

20Sport 12m

1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.948303, -26.925507

Approach:

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at Candy Mountain. The NEB routes start 20m to the right.

Descent Notes:

Almost all the 'NE Buttress Sector' climbs finish at the top of the buttress. There are a number of ways to descend from here:

  • Follow the rough track along the northeast ridge towards the 'Tibro' summit. Descend either via the 'Caves Route' or the 'West Track' (tourist track).
  • Rap down the last 3 pitches of 'Sunburnt Buttress' then rap straight down to the big tree in the gully below. One more rap off the anchor cable around the tree gets you to the ground. Two ropes required.
  • Rap down 'Blabbermouth' - 7 x 30m raps.
  • Rap down 'El Scorcho' - 4 x 60m raps.
History:

Read about the development of 'Sunburnt Buttress' in this article on qurank.com

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

About 100m along the cliff base from 'Desperation Wall' is an obvious slabby buttress with the initials "NEB" at its rightmost end.

1 * Ross Miller Route

Ross Miller Route 190m, 21 An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Bring a #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing. Access: When you reach the rock face having walked up the access track from the ring road, the Ross Miller Route starts from the ledge directly above you. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right hand side of the tree and traverse right until you see the large rock wall with an ironwood bush at the bottom. The route starts behind this bush. Route:

  1. 25m (18) (sport) Start directly behind ironwood tree, up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

  2. 25m (15) (sport) Typically Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to anchor.

  3. 20m (11) (trad) head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

  4. 25m (18) (sport) up following FH's right of blunt arete.

  5. 25m (19) (sport) engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

  6. 25m (13) (sport) climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

  7. 15m (21) (sport) left to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor.

  8. 30m (16) (sport) follow line of well spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way. To exit:

    • either traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off. or
    • rap back down in 6 pitches:
  9. 30m straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7)

  10. 40m straight down to anchor at top of 5

  11. 40m down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch 3

  12. 20m straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here

  13. 25m traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

  14. 25m to ground and scramble out the way you came in.

FA: Annett Miller, Bernie Walsh, Steve Kloske, 2013

21Trad 190m
2 The Kloske Conection

The Kloske Connection 50m, 23 Climb to the top of P3 on the Ross Miller Route and scramble 10m L to DBB, Joins the anchors of P6 RMR. I’ll be changing my name from Steve Peckman to Steve Kloske over the next few months so this will be the first of my new routes as Steve Kloske.

  1. 25m 18 Climb up very poorly protected section of rock to a single cam and wire placement from here run it out to the anchor. Anchor has 1 fixed hanger and needs gear. 25m 23 climb up bridging and jamming through rooflet on natural prow of all sorts for about 10m until the bolts (5) are reached then continue up to anchor

Set by Steve Kloske

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2013

FA: Steve Kloske, 2013

23Mixed 55m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Sideshow Bob

Start 10m L of 'The North-East Buttress'. Marked "Sbo".

FA: Wayne Meith, A. Anderson, 2005

20Trad 250m
4 The North-East Buttress

Start at "NEB" mark.

FA: Paul Conaghan, G. Hardy, 1965

11Trad 300m

From 'The North-East Buttress' continue along the base of the cliff up the slope. After about 100m the ground levels off at an alcove about 10m wide.

5 ** Blabbermouth

Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.

  1. 28m (12) Up vague corner passing just R of a couple of bushes. After second one, go straight up to DBB. Most parties choose instead to climb 'Blabbermouth VS', which offers cleaner climbing and more protection.

  2. 34m (16) Traverse out L (BR) for about 10m before heading up past more BRs. After last one, trend slightly R up to belay shared with 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  3. 33m (16) Step R 2m then up past 2 BRs. Up past lots of slots then more BRs to ledge (the 'Birdsnest' belay).

  4. 20m (13) Straight up past 5 BRs.

  5. 28m (14) Step L off belay. Up corner (BRs and gear).

  6. 32m (13) Step L off belay then up trending L to finish at 5th belay of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

  7. 20m (10) As for last pitch of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

Rack: to #3 friend.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2004

16Trad 200m
6 * Blabbermouth VS

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2005

13Trad 22m
7 Rock Garden 11Trad 220m
8 ** Sunburnt Buttress

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

  1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

  2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

  3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

  4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

  5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

  6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

19Trad 190m
9 ** El Scorcho

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2005

21Trad 110m
10 ** Tommy Dodd

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

18Trad 100m
11 * The Chris Mann Route

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004

20Trad 98m

1.1.12. Shadow Glen 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.947676, -26.925082

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Peeping Tom 18Trad 8m
2 * Kitsch 22Sport 9m
3 Sweet Flower Girl

FA: ross ferguson gareth llewelyn

25Trad 10m
4 Suburban Sprawl 22Trad 15m
5 Suburban Sprawl Variant 21Trad 15m
6 Domestos 16Trad 15m
7 Vagabond 15Trad 35m
8 Highlander 16Trad 45m
9 * Brick Boxes

Start 10m R of 'Highlander'.

Solo up the moderately difficult slab to 2 FHs at the same (ridiculously high!) height. Clip the L FH then trend L clipping 2 more FHs. After the 3rd FH head sharply R to the 4th and final FH, then straight up to DBB shared with 'The Black Planet'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Alister Robbie, Karl Curnow, 1996

20Sport 20m, 4
10 Tribulation

Start at the 'Brick Boxes' DBB.

Continue up wall on marginal protection to tree belay.

FA: Neil Monteith, Karl Curnow, 1996

13 RTrad 25m
11 * The Black Planet

Start as for 'Brick Boxes'.

On (finally!) reaching the 2 FHs, clip the R one and follow the line of 3 more FHs to the DBB shared with 'Brick Boxes'. Crux is at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1996

20Sport 20m, 4
12 * Flame 'n' Sparks 18Trad 25m
13 Brit Pop 23Trad 15m
14 Liquid Pleasures 18Trad 15m
15 Vege Abattoir

Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'.

Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' DBB. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 RTrad 13m
16 Armageddon

Start on the R-most line of bolts at 'Shadow Glen'. If you reach the cave you've gone too far.

Up easy slab to BR. Over the crux bulge to FH then up easy slab to fishbowl hold (you'll know it). Run it out slightly R to anchor, which could do with some maintenance.

FA: Ana Greer, Neil Monteith, 1996

17Sport 13m, 2
17 Inspiration

Start at crack 3m R of 'Armageddon'.

Follow the curving crack to the 'Armageddon' DBB.

FA: Karl Curnow, Neil Monteith, 1996

10Trad 13m

1.1.13. West Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.944974, -26.927350

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Felp 10Trad 200m
2 Felp II

FA: 2004

13Trad 300m
3 * West Track 1Unknown 370m
4 Microtome 14Trad 100m

1.1.14. South Face 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.945917, -26.928540

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 South Face Route 8Trad 190m
2 Better You Than Me 18Trad 50m
3 On Bended Knee 17Trad 45m
4 Rain Drops 14Trad 45m

1.1.15. North Face 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.946916, -26.926071

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Face Route 8Trad 87m

1.2. Mt Ngungun 170 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.935764, -26.898454

Description:

At 253m above sea level, 'Mt Ngungun' is the smallest of the main 'Glasshouse Mountains'. While there's no 'Mt Tibrogargan' style multipitch epics to be had here, there is nonetheless some great climbing on good rock. Add to that shadiness in summer, great views & easy accessibility, and it's easy to understand its popularity.

There are 6 distinct areas to climb at 'Mt Ngungun': the 'Lower Cliffs', the 'Upper Cliffs', 'The Sentinels', 'The Hidden Slabs', 'Babylon' & 'Andromeda'. The 'Lower Cliffs' are the most easily accessed and probably the most popular.

See also Lee Cujes' awesome "A Climber's Guide To The Glasshouses" at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Approach:

'Mt Ngungun' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 10km before turning left into the Glasshouse Mountains township. Follow the road around as it doglegs over the railway line, becoming Coonowrin Rd as it does so. About 1km down the road is a right turn signposted for "Mt Ngungun". Take this turn and drive along Fullertons Rd until reaching the carpark about 1.5km from the intersection.

View driving map

Note that 'The Sentinels', 'The Hidden Slabs' and 'Babylon' are approached from the opposite side of the mountain.

1.2.1. Andromeda 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.933448, -26.898200

Description:

A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.

Since a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.

Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.

Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have almost completely faded away. Two landmarks to get you started at the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' and the climb in front of the biggest tree at the base is 'Lunar Eclipse'. Climbs are listed from right to left.

Approach:

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching 'Flat Battery Wall' at the 'Lower Cliffs'.

A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction, easily followed and with occasional rock cairns for reassurance. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.

The path meets the cliff at its rightmost end, near 'Graviton' and 'Mars'. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or south to north).

History:

Development commenced in 2010. Most climbs rebolted 2014.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Absolute Zero

Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off.

Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gina Peters, 2011

14Sport 10m, 4
2 Graviton

Start 2m L of 'Absolute Zero'. Marked "G" but the paint is coming off.

Straight up following the line of 4 FHs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2011

18Sport 12m, 4
3 Mars / "M"

Start 2m L of 'Graviton' Marked "M".

Straight up following the line of 5 FHs to DBB. Hardest climbing is around the 2nd bolt. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Jeremy Danielsen, 2011

18Sport 12m, 5
4 Horse Head Nebula

Start 3m L of 'Mars'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts straight up to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

17Sport 17m, 3
5 Alien Encounter

Start 3m L of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

15Sport 18m, 4
6 Asteroid Belt

Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

16Sport 18m, 3
7 Solar Eclipse

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Ros Jackson, 2010

16Sport 20m, 4
8 * Gravitational Equilibrium

Start 2m L of 'Solar Eclipse'. Marked "GE".

Probably the best climb on the cliff. Some nice moves and relatively sustained climbing. Up past a RB and 2 FHs, then head L to another RB and up to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

18Sport 20m, 4
9 Interstellar Journey

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

15Sport 20m, 4
10 Southern Cross

Start 2m L of 'Interstellar Journey'. Marked "SC".

Easier than 'Gravitational Equilibrium' and much easier than 'Worm Hole'. Follow the bolts, traversing R at the top to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Sandra Buscher, 2010

18Sport 20m, 4
11 Space Ride

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Southern Cross', 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Southern Cross'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then straight up to the DBB at 'Alien Encounter' clipping its final bolt on the way.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino, 2010

16Sport 28m, 7
12 Worm Hole

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt is harder than the grade would suggest. A hold may have come off since the original grading? Traverse L at the top to the 'Coal Sack' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

18Sport 17m, 4
13 Dark Matter

Between the Coal Sack crack and Worm Hole. Up following rings to anchor.

FA: Unknown

15Sport 17m
14 Coal Sack

Start 3m L of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "CS".

Easy climbing with trad protection following the crack until it runs out about halfway up. More difficult climbing in the second half protected by 2 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

16Mixed 17m, 2
15 Lunar Eclipse

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs then traverse R at the top to the 'Coal Sack' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Steve Jones, Ros Jackson, Heinz Buscher, 2010

15Sport 17m, 4
16 Event Horizon

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up to the R of the large loose blocks then tend L to the 'Star Dust' DBB. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

14Sport 17m, 4
17 Star Dust

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up to the L of the large loose blocks finishing at the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

13Sport 17m, 4
18 Nebula

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. Traverse sharply L after the 3rd bolt to the 'Orbital Tether' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

11Sport 10m, 3
19 Orbital Tether

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

12Sport 10m, 3
20 Black Hole

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs, both of which are hidden until you're near them. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block traverse R to the 'Orbital Tether' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

16Sport 10m, 3
21 Orion's Belt

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Sandra Buscher, 2010

13Sport 25m, 5

The next four climbs are in the 'Andromeda' "mini adventure" sector. Long pitches up an exposed slab with fantastic views, but relatively runout and with plenty of loose rock – take care. A 60m rope is advisable but a 50m rope and some scrambling will work.

22 Space Dust

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

10Sport 28m, 5
23 Galaxy

Start 3m L of 'Space Dust'. Marked "G".

Follow 4 BRs tending L to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB. Quite runout, particularly to the 1st bolt. The 4th bolt is also the 5th bolt on 'Space Dust' and is easy to miss.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

11Sport 26m, 4
24 Synchronous Orbit

Start 4m L of 'Galaxy'. Marked "SO".

Up the easy slab clipping 2 BRs to the base of the headwall. Clip the 3rd BR then crank through some steeper moves up the headwall to the 4th BR. On up the slab to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

16Sport 27m, 4
25 Singularity

Start 3m L of 'Synchronous Orbit'. Marked "S".

Follow the line of 4 BRs trending R at the top to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

12Sport 26m, 4

1.2.2. Lower Cliffs 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.935766, -26.900951

Description:

A popular and easily accessible crag with some great sport routes and a few easier trad climbs. Nice and shady even in summer but can be wet after rain.

Some of the routes are bolted with carrot bolts (BR in the descriptions) so don't forget your bolt plates. There are also fixed hangers (FHs), ring bolts (RBs) and u-bolts (UBs).

There are 3 distinct areas to climb at the 'Lower Cliffs': 'Flat Battery Wall', 'Owl Pillar' & 'The Lower Main Cliff'. Climbing is prohibited in the 4th area, 'The Cave (closed)'.

Approach:

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. After 10-15 minutes walk you'll reach a fork in the track. The left track continues up to the 'Mt Ngungun' summit. Take the right track and within a minute you'll come to an obvious bolted buttress on the left. This is 'Flat Battery Wall'. 'Owl Pillar' is on the opposite side of the track. Follow the rough track down past 'Owl Pillar' to reach the start of 'The Lower Main Cliff'.

1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall 7 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.935216, -26.900606

Description:

A small slabby wall with three sport and two trad routes, all with easy access for top-roping.

All bolts are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bolt plates are needed. Trees at the top can be used as anchors, however this is a National Park so please use them in a way that won't cause any damage.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach:

'Flat Battery Wall' is the buttress on the left as you arrive at the 'Lower Cliffs'. The top can be accessed from the main summit track or you can scramble up left of 'Bad Move'.

Descent Notes:

Descend either by walking down the track beside the cliff or by rapping/lowering using trees as anchors.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lithium Grit

A grit stone style offering. Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs.

FFA: B.Cobb, 25th Jul

14Trad 10m
2 Bad Move

Start at the L-most line of bolts on 'Flat Battery Wall'.

Balance up the slab past 2 BRs and top out. Quite run out.

FA: Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell, 1993

17Sport 10m, 2
3 Flat Battery

Start 2m R of 'Bad Move'.

Straight up the slab past 3 BRs to the top.

FA: Darrin Carter, Grant Bucknell, 1993

13Sport 10m, 3
4 Where's Marty?

Start 2m R of 'Flat Battery'.

Up past 2 BRs to the top.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1994

12Sport 10m, 2
5 Sexy Legs

Start 2m R of 'Where's Marty?'.

Up vegetated crack and slab to top.

FA: M. Welsh, Ingrid Smits, Martin Worth, 1994

15Trad 15m
6 Hairy Legs

Start from Sexy Legs, over the bulge and to the Ferny crack then follow this crack trending right until you hit the arete. Climb this to the top. This climb is harder than its neighbour but has the advantage of adequate protection.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

17Trad 15m
7 Roof Climb

Start 6m R of 'Sexy Legs'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

12Trad 15m
1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar 6 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.935374, -26.900893

Description:

A freestanding pillar bearing a remarkable resemblance to an owl. Has 5 short but fun sport routes and an easy solo scramble.

The routes are bolted with a mix of FHs & BRs so make sure you have some bolt plates with you before setting off up the climbs. The summit and its chains can be accessed unroped via 'Easy Solo' to set up topropes but make sure your rope goes through your own gear and not directly through the chains.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach:

Located just off the 'Lower Cliffs' access track to the right as you ascend, opposite 'Flat Battery Wall'.

Descent Notes:

There are a set of rap chains on top of the pillar which can be used to descend from all the climbs, with varying degrees of equalisation.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Midnight Makeout

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. It's highly advisable to stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L.

Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains.

FA: Alister Robbie Re-established Neil Monteith, 1994

22Sport 7m, 3
2 The Pillar Connection

Start as for 'Midnight Makeout'.

A traversing link-up. Climb up & R clipping:

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

22Sport 15m, 4
3 Afternoon Delight

Start 2m to the R of 'Midnight Makeout'.

Straight up clipping 2 FHs then a BR. The BR is shared with 'Midnight Makeout'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

18Sport 7m, 3
4 * Dawn Raid

Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'.

Climb past a FH, a BR and another FH tending slightly L. The 1st bolt is high but can be preclipped leaning in from the L. Potential for groundfalls higher up too so take care.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

19Sport 9m, 3
5 Morning Madness

Start 2m R of & a bit down from 'Dawn Raid'. The rightmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'.

Follow the line of 4 BRs to the summit.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1995

18Sport 10m, 4
6 Easy Solo

The easy scramble up the back of 'Owl Pillar'.

FA: An Indigenous fella

4Trad 13m
1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff 26 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.936008, -26.901042

Description:

A long and varied wall with some excellent sport routes, including the mega classic 'Absentia' and the pump-fest 'Acid'. There's also some trad routes in the easier grades but they tend to be quite "adventurous" so take care.

There's a few carrots (BRs) scattered amongst the bolts so carry bolt plates.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach:

'The Lower Main Cliff' starts directly opposite 'Owl Pillar' where it is soon split by the 'Acid' ravine. A rough track continues past the ravine along the base of the cliff for 5-10 minutes with climbs scattered intermittently along the way. 'Claustrophilia' and 'Watch your Back Jack' are located in an isolated ravine found by following the trail above the 'closed cave', then walking approx 50mtrs through the bush to a big rock knob - abseil in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breakaway

Start directly opposite 'Midnight Makeout' on 'Owl Pillar'.

Up juggy groove then slab to finish at ledge.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

7Trad 38m
2 Daily Constitutional

Start 5m R of 'Breakaway'.

Up wide crack then trend L up slab to finish as per 'Breakaway'.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

10Trad 36m
3 Vertical Cabbage

Start at the end of the 'Acid' ravine.

Awful chimney.

FA: Dave Gilleson, Ian Thomas, 1971

10Trad 41m
4 * Bum F**k Idaho

3m L of Acid. Bouldery for 3 bolts than up the corner feature, finishing at Acid's chains.

FA: Alex Straw, Rob Parer, 2011

26Sport 20m
5 ** Idaho Sunshine

Link up. Climb BFI for 3 bolts, then head R into latter half of Acid at its old, low finish.

28Sport 20m
6 *** Acid

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in 'The Lower Main Cliff' just past 'Owl Pillar'.

Stickclip the 1st RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here but now continues with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2000

27Sport 25m, 8
7 * Acid VF 26Sport
8 Good Vibrations

Start 6m R of 'Acid' at the entrance to the ravine.

Juggy slab route with little protection. Rap from ledge with tree or continue up short wall to exit.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

7Trad 33m
9 Trench Tactics

Start about 15m R of 'Good Vibrations'.

Climbs the opposite side of the 'Acid' buttress. Adequate pro but not so good.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

11Trad 35m
10 Claustrophilia

Located in the steep ravine found by walking above the cave. Look for the big rock knob - ab anchors on the side. Safely bolted (close) due to proximity of back wall. Makes anyone whining about the acid back wall look like a total pansy! Shame, as the features and climbing are excellent, and this would be a rad sport wall were it not in a narrow ravine! Long tricky moves at the start, jugs in the middle, followed by a hard crimpy crux guarding the anchors.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Shannon Keys, 2013

23Sport 12m, 7
11 Watch Your Back Jack

Starts in the same ravine as 'Claustrophilia', at it's opening - hidden above the vegetated corner 15-20m R of 'Trench Tactics'. To find the ravine either climb up the easy slab from below (dodgy trad), or walk to its top from above 'The Cave (closed)' and rap down.

Stickclip 1st FH then use tree to gain start jugs. Up past 2nd FH, #1 or 1.5 SLCD placement and 2 more FHs to rap station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Menno Smits, 1999

20Mixed 18m, 4
12 Forsaken

…but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent.

Start 50m or so R along the cliff from the 'Acid' area at some blocky orange roofs.

Five RBs lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.

FA: Phil Box, Stephen Parker, 2002

22Sport 20m, 5
13 Full Monty

Start 2m R of Forsaken beneath deep orange shield of rock and steepest overhang. Up you go.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

25Sport 15m, 8
14 Cardiac Arrest

Start 5m R of 'Forsaken' on the black rock.

Poor rock with minimal protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

16 RTrad 30m
15 Summer Holiday

Start about 10m R of 'Forsaken'.

Up slab clipping hard-to-spot BR, then overhung climbing past 3 FHs. Past a final BR to chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1998

18Sport 24m, 5
16 Biyatch Pants

Start 3m R of 'Summer Holiday'.

Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join 'Summer Holiday' at its third bolt. Note that the final bolt on 'SH' is a BR so a bolt plate is needed.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2002

22Sport 25m, 5
17 * Serenade For Rings

Start 3m R of 'Biyatch Pants' at featured arête.

Slab up the arête past RB to top (retro BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing straight up the headwall passing two more RBs to rap station on ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Samantha Cujes, Stephen Parker, 2002

21Sport 17m, 5
18 ** Present And Accounted For

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

FA: Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith, 1999

20Sport 18m, 4
19 Xposure

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' anchor.

Currently unclimbable.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 1998

16 RTrad 45m
20 Linkage

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' anchor.

Traverse R and up to finish at the 'Absentia' anchor. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

10 RTrad 15m
21 AWOL

Start 5m L of 'Absentia'.

Up past flake and small bulge passing 4 UBs to DBB.

FA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2010

17Sport 18m, 4
22 ** Absentia

Start about 15m R of 'Present And Accounted For'.

Classic route up a strip of pocketed rock worn smooth by the waterfall that appears each time it rains. 3 FHs & 2 RBs to DBB.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

17Sport 20m, 5
23 Old Scholars

Start 2m R of 'Absentia'.

Juggy wall with a tricky layback flake start through bulge. At 5th bolt step L to join 'Absentia', clipping its final bolt and finishing at its DBB.

FA: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin, 2008

18Sport 20m, 6
24 Dog's Balls

Start at the DBB at the top of 'Absentia'.

Up the wide groove above 'Absentia'. Limited protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, Dave Hall, Alister Robbie, 1994

12 RTrad 50m
25 Kicking Brass

Start at gully 10m R of 'Absentia'.

  1. 15m (3) Up R-leading gully slinging two trees as pro, then climb directly up the easy slab to tree and ledge (natural belay in pockets).

  2. 35m (15) Many of the pockets take gear (mostly hexes), so take a full rack. Diagonally L off the belay to good wire before wide crack, then up to bulge. Go L to avoid the bulge and up to second bulge. Resist temptation to trend R up ramp - instead go L through bulge to pro. Directly up black rock to FH. From here the line is direct up the steep juggy wall passing a crucial #6 hex pocket and second FH. Once on the upper slab, clip the last FH and traverse 5m R along ledge to chains.

FA: 1. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

FA: 2. Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

15Mixed 50m, 3
26 Get Into The Groove

Start as for 'Kicking Brass'.

  1. 15m (3) As per 1st pitch of 'Kicking Brass'.

  2. 35m (15) Slightly L, then R up white corner to mini-rooflet (3 FHs). Over this, then runout slab to headwall. Up this beautifully scooped groove passing 3 FHs to chains.

FA: Lee Cujes, Menno Smits, 1999

15Mixed 50m, 6
1.2.2.4. The Cave (closed) 3 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

The large cave on the right as you continue to ascend the 'Mt Ngungun' summit track beyond 'Flat Battery Wall'. CLIMBING IS PROHIBITED HERE since loose rock can hit passing bushwalkers. The climbs below are listed for historical purposes only.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (Unknown 1) 17Unknown 20m
2 Passive Action 13Unknown 17m
3 (Unknown 2) Unknown

1.2.3. Upper Cliffs 65 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.934972, -26.899931

Description:

The Upper Cliffs are divided into two sections - Main Cliff and The Nursery Cliff. These two south-facing cliffs sport numerous cracks, corners and walls of good quality, with plentiful jugs and protection. This means the majority of climbs are in the low to medium grades and most are naturally protected. Most early climbs were initialled for easy location.

Approach:

Up to the summit via the tourist track then follow directions to the Main or Nursery cliffs.

1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff 42 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.934807, -26.899968

Approach:

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.

The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. When the path turns back right you should see a fairly obvious climbers trail with some markers in front of you - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.

Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

Routes are listed from right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Revenge of Chossmaster

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

16Trad 15m
2 The Chossmaster

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

  1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster' up to ledge and TB on gear.

  2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the left with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

  3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs' ledge. TB.

  4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO' up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

FFA: B. Cobb, C. Brazzelli, 2014

13Trad 78m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Classical Gas

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Considering bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971

16Trad 27m
4 Carpe Jugular

FA: L. Cujes, P. Newton, 1999

17Trad 45m
5 ** Visions Of A Transmitter

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen, Dan Meyers, 1994

18Trad 45m
6 *** Visions Of A Transmitter DF

FA: N. Monteith, M. Blumen, 1995

18Trad
7 ** Ensorcelled

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Icehouse

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan, Steve Bell, 1975

15Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Six Sided Hell

FA: L. Cujes, E. Smith, 1999

20Trad 45m
10 Hex Heaven

FA: R. Scott, 1991

16Trad 50m
11 Sticky Fingers

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge.

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

12Trad 18m
12 Angie

Set by S. Bell, B. Overs, D. Gilleson, 1971

13Trad 18m
13 Bloodsucker

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

FFA: D. Carter, J. Hattink, 1993

18Trad 45m
14 ** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

17Sport 12m, 5
15 ** Witch Hunt

FA: N. Monteith, 1996

21Trad 15m
16 * Tower Of Power 16Trad 20m
17 Keyhole 6Trad 44m
18 Feeling Groovy 15Trad 40m
19 Feeling Groovy VF 15Trad
20 Heartache 17Trad 38m
21 Stand To 16Trad 40m
22 * Deep Purple

Start at DP mark up corner crack and good protection to ledge.

13Trad 25m
23 Leaning Tower 14Trad 27m
24 Rubber Soul

Pitch 1 from RS mark up pockets and cracks to ledge (weak tree or bomber gear in crack belay). Pitch 2 up in the chimney.

15Trad 45m
25 Gyroscope 15Trad 45m
26 Speed King 21Trad 45m
27 Marathon 18Trad 45m
28 Baby Driver 19Trad 25m
29 Carmen Revisited 16Trad 42m
30 Fallen Knight 17Trad 25m
31 Previous Commitment 17Trad 42m
32 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters 15Trad 42m
33 ** CUFA

Set by Unknown, 1970

16Trad 40m
34 Not Recommended For Children

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

18Trad 35m
35 Cantankerous Cantelope

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

17Trad 35m
36 Gone Cruisin'

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 30m
37 Bourgeois Bullshitter

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 30m
38 ** Feargrounds For Insanity

Set by N. Monteith, M. Blumen, D. Carter, 1994

24Trad 20m
39 Stop The Bus

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 25m
40 Strawberry Fields

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

22Trad 25m
41 Ultra Violet Catastrophe

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

14Trad 23m
42 Alchemist

The scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall, marked "A" that follows the exposed crest to the summit of Ngungun.

5Trad 60m
1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff 23 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.935273, -26.899863

Description:

Great little cliff that is just under vertical with plentiful jugs resulting in easy climbs with some nice exposure. Generally good gear provided by the cracks and pockets. Perfect beginner trad leader crag.

Approach:

Access the summit ridge via the tourist track. Walk along the ridge towards the summit then turn left (South) at a detached pillar.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Razor Sedge 10Trad 10m
2 Dishonour Before Death 13Trad 10m
3 Flatliner 17Trad 15m
4 Silver Lining 16Trad 15m
5 * Hard Core 18Trad 15m
6 Tree Line 15Trad 20m
7 Side Line 9Trad 20m
8 Walk The Line 8Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Main Line 10Trad 20m
10 Cee Gee Also 7Trad 20m
11 Cold Girl 8Trad 20m
12 Air Line 12Trad 20m
13 Fine Line 11Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Denim 12Trad 20m
15 Angie Too 10Trad 20m
16 A 13Trad 20m
17 Funky Bass Line 16Trad 20m
18 Ballsup 11Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Bee Line 7Trad 20m
20 Next In Line 7Trad 20m
21 Centre Line 9Trad 20m
22 Plumb Line 8Trad 20m
23 Left Right Out 5Trad 23m

1.2.4. The Sentinels 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.938126, -26.897615

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Climbs are listed from R to L.

1 Groove Armada

FA: Lee Cujes, Took Smits, 2000

17Trad 25m
2 Butterfree

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

8Trad 20m
3 Caterpie

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7Trad 20m
4 Srama

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2000

22Sport 8m, 3
5 My Little Sphinx

FA: Erik Smits, Philippa Newton, 2000

12Trad 8m

1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.937783, -26.896794

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prehistoric Dog 15Sport 30m
2 Prehistoric Dog Hueco Variant 18Sport
3 Purple Pack 8Trad 25m
4 Slow Motion Grass Smoker 13Sport 30m
5 Acid Dropper 11Trad 30m
6 Dinosaurs And Volcanos 10Trad 30m

1.2.6. Babylon 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.935440, -26.895389

Description:

An hour's drive from the city and only a few minutes walk from the carpark, 'Babylon' must be vying for title of most accessible crag out of Brisbane. It encompasses a long stretch of the northern cliffs of 'Mt Ngungun', with climbs scattered along the cliffline wherever the rock is good enough. There is a variety of climbing on offer: plenty of slabby routes for beginners with some more difficult routes up overhanging rock for those looking for something pumpier.

Bolts are a mix of fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) and carrot bolts (BR) which require bolt plates. All the sport routes and many of the trad routes have double bolt belay anchors (DBB) for lowering off.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Approach:

Instead of the usual approach to 'Mt Ngungun', 'Babylon' (along with 'The Sentinels' and 'The Hidden Slabs') is accessed from Ngungun's northern side. Follow the road through the Glasshouse Mountains township as it doglegs over the railway as per usual. However instead of following the road left as it becomes Coonowrin Rd, turn right into Railway Parade. Take the first left into Sahara Rd and drive along this for about 2km. Just after the speed limit increases to 80 km/h there is a dirt parking strip beside the road on the left. Park here.

View driving map

From the carpark follow the small but distinct track up the hill for 100m or so, crossing two vehicle trails. The base of the cliff is reached within a few minutes. The two lines of bolts visible from where the track meets the cliff are 'Rumble In The Jungle' and 'Hijinx'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Baby Grit

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7Trad 15m
2 Smearete

Directly under bush at 10m, in the centre of the arete. A solo problem, no gear. A couple of balancy moves and smears. Downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

9Trad 12m
3 Pikachu

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

7Trad 18m
4 Charmander

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7Trad 18m
5 Bulbasaur

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

5Trad 17m
6 Access Route

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

4Trad 10m
7 Shit Scary

Start as for PE, but don't tend right. Instead head directly up the LLR. Solo FA, however no useful gear was seen... a solo problem. Lots of loose rock, most was removed but some would no doubt remain. Traverse to AR and downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

13Trad 20m
8 Piss Easy

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

5Trad 25m
9 As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue

Start at blunt arete with line of BRs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 BRs to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2001

12Sport 25m, 7
10 * Acumen

Start below highest section of cliff with orange-white headwall, about 15m L of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20Mixed 35m, 4
11 Acumen VF

Start as for 'Acumen'.

FA: Stephen Parker, Lee Cujes, 2001

18 RMixed 40m, 2
12 Rumble In The Jungle

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m L of 'Hijinx'.

Fun pumpy moves up overhanging wall past FH, BR, BR and FH finishing at DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20Sport 16m, 4
13 Hijinx

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m R of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

Juggy but balancy climbing past FH, BR then FH to DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17Sport 16m, 3
14 Gossamer Threads

Start 5m R of 'Hijinx', just around arete.

Preclip 1st bolt by leaning in from ledge to R but start direct. Crimpy moves up smooth face past BR, FH and BR to DBB. Harder if you avoid holds on arete.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

19Sport 13m, 3

From 'Gossamer Threads' follow the cliffline R for about 70m to find a section of wall with BRs. The next 3 climbs are here.

15 Dang Fool

Start at L-most line of bolts on this section.

Nice thin moves past highish BR. Continue past 2nd BR to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2002

14Sport 10m, 2
16 Fool's Errand

Start 3m R of Dang Fool.

Up past 3 tightly-spaced BRs. Then either traverse sharply L to the 'Dang Fool' DBB (makes it difficult to retrieve draws) or run it out up and R to the 'Heinzinator' DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

14Sport 10m, 3
17 Heinzinator

Start 3m R of 'Fool's Errand'.

Straight up past 3 BRs to DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Steve Jones, 2009

13Sport 14m, 3

From 'Dang Fool' follow vague track towards obvious overhanging buttress about 20m away. 'Brummagem' ascends this.

18 Pockets Of Fun

Start: 5m L of Brummagem at the big chimney/groove. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three BR's to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2001

9Sport 15m, 3
19 A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. To ledge, then climb R and up on good pockets to chains.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2001

10Sport 15m, 3
20 Fillament

FA: Heinz Buscher, Ros Jackson, 2009

13Sport 22m, 4
21 Friday Afternoon Nutcases

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Bridge up the back of the chimney on gear, the exit L and up passing a BR to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2002

13Trad 20m
22 Brummagem

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

21Sport 13m, 2

The next climbs are found approximately 30m R of 'Brummagem'.

23 Flat Out

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

11Trad 30m
24 Slap Slap Shit Splat

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

16Trad 30m
25 Strange Ritual

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20Mixed 30m, 3
26 Aqua Aerobics

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

18Mixed 30m, 1
27 Boulder Problem Gone Wrong

FA: Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, 1999

6Trad 50m

1.3. Mt Beerwah 176 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.885231, -26.896857

Approach:

The Summit track is currently closed, so the rock apron can be accessed via south as per Wayne's World access track and west via an easy bush-bash starting from a closed 4x4 track at S26.897070, E152.876763 (20 min). From here head west through the bush, the rock is 300m away from the track (20 min). Once the rock apron is reached (S26.897876, E152.879982) follow it to the right to access fern wall (3 min), or to the left for Thanksgiving Wall (20 min) and Mosquito Wall (25 min). The Underworld can be accessed by scrambling the West Beerwah Route. The east side is accessed by a well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 that will lead all the way to the beginning of East Beerwah route. Short and Cool Ones sector and Turtles Back Wall can be accessed by a faint track starting immediately before the carpark entry (S26.89050, E152.88791) that will lead to the rock apron (15/20 minutes).

1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall 42 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.885679, -26.894424

Approach:

A small track starting a the carpark entry (S26.89050, E152.88791) will lead to the rock apron (15 minutes) between Short and Cool Ones (to the right 10 minutes) and Turtle's Back Wall (left 2 minutes).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I'll Think Of Something Else

FA: Mark Gamble, Jack Williams, 2007

8Trad 28m
2 I'll Think Of Something

FA: John Hattink, Darrin Carter, 1998

12Trad 25m
3 * What A Dish

FA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink

10Trad 25m
4 Avenger VS 8Trad 15m
5 Avenger

FA: Rob Staszewski, Clive Heckenberg, 1971

10Trad 90m
6 Acquitted

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

8Trad 15m
7 Order In The Court

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

11Trad 15m
8 Jury's Out

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

15Trad 15m
9 Third Degree

FA: Sean Smith, John Hattink, 1997

16Trad 20m
10 Don't Scratch My New Ute

FA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1997

18Trad 90m
11 Sharks Patrol These Waters

FA: FSA Darrin Carter, 1997

17Trad 15m
12 Barracuda

FA: John Hattink, Darrin Carter, 1997

15Trad 15m
13 Mistaken Identity

FA: Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 1997

15Trad 15m
14 Lady With the Handbag

FA: Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando, 2007

10Trad 15m
15 Mr Lazyboots

FA: Pitch 1: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 13/02/1997. Pitch 2: Sean Smith, John Hattink 16/02/1997, 1997

16Trad 85m
16 The Artful Dodger

FA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1997

13Trad 60m
17 Dark And Stormy

FA: Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 1997

15Trad 60m
18 ** Assumed Innocent

FA: Sean Smith, Darrin Carter, 1997

17Trad 60m
19 Proven Guilty

FA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1997

14Trad 60m
20 Wandering Madness

FA: Sean Smith, Simon Moser, 1997

14Trad 60m
21 Short Circuit

FA: Darrin Carter, Kevin Coleman, 2003

15Trad 60m
22 Columbian Necktie

FA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1998

17Trad 95m
23 Burke's Backyard

FA: John Hattink, Darrin Carter, 2008

13Trad 80m
24 Weight Watchers

FA: Kent Jenson, Darrin Carter, 1998

17Mixed 40m, 2
25 Drop Zone

FA: Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson, 1998

14Trad 75m
26 Drop Zone Variant

FA: Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter, 2004

15Trad 45m
27 Blackout

FA: Darrin Carter, Kent Jenson, 1998

16Trad 85m
28 Cut Short

FA: Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter, 2003

18Trad 20m
29 Guillotine

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2003

16Mixed 15m, 3
30 Gun Control

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, Marten Blumen, 1996

14Trad 260m
31 Gun Control (pitch 6 alternate)

FA: Wayne Meith, Craig Molloy, 2004

16Trad 25m
32 Eye On Crime

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

14Trad 30m
33 * Super Size Me

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, Christian Jones, 2004

15Sport 15m
34 Entrapment

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

19Mixed 15m, 3
35 * Shanny

FA: Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter, 2005

21Sport 18m
36 Two & A Half Squirts

FA: Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter, 2004

21Sport 20m, 5
37 Chocolates VS

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2004

13Mixed 25m, 3
38 Chocolates

FA: Darrin Carter, Ross Ferguson, 2004

16Mixed 25m, 1
39 Waterboy

FA: Darrin Carter, Brett Jewel, 1999

14Mixed 45m, 2
40 Just Juice

FA: Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin (Pitch 1), Darrin Carter, Sean Smith (Pitch 2 & 3), 1997

19Trad 150m
41 Time On Your Hands

FA: Darrin Carter, Gareth Llewellin, 1997

14Trad 50m
42 Breakfast At Bobo's

FA: Darrin Carter (Pitch 1), Project (Open?) - Pitch 2, 1999

24Mixed 45m, 4

1.3.2. Turtle's Back Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.888530, -26.895371

Approach:

A small track starting a the carpark entry (S26.89050, E152.88791) will lead to the rock apron (15 minutes) between Short and Cool Ones (to the right 10 minutes) and Turtle's Back Wall (left 2 minutes).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dot Soul

FA: Chris Finn, Darrin Carter, 1998

16Trad 45m
2 Reunion

FA: Darrin Carter, Chris Finn, 1998

18Mixed 45m, 2
3 New Shoe Shuffle

FA: Darrin Carter, Chris Finn, 1998

13Trad 45m
4 Foot Fetish

FA: Chris Finn, Darrin Carter, 1998

15Trad 45m

1.3.3. Mosquito Wall 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.882600, -26.895049

Description:© (gremlin)

Bring bolt plates.

Approach:© (gremlin)

The summit track is closed. This crag can be accessed by following the closed 4X4 track west from the carpark for 150m then bush-bashing left for 350-400m to the rock apron (15 minutes from carpark).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Larva

A traverse over to 'Tropical Strength'.

FA: 2005

15Sport 18m
2 Low Irritant

FA: Darrin Carter, Wayne Mieth, 2005

15Sport 12m, 3
3 Ava Good Weekend 15Sport 12m, 3
4 Mozzie Coil (project) Unknown
5 Malaria

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter, 2005

13Sport 14m, 3
6 Aeroguard

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter, 2005

11Sport 14m, 5
7 Tropical Strength

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter, 2005

15Sport 14m, 5
8 Bitten

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ferguson, Darrin Carter, 2005

15Sport 14m, 5
9 Ross Linker Fever

A traverse from 'Bitten', back to 'Low Irritant'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

15Sport 16m
10 Rid

FA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos, 2005

16Sport 14m, 4
11 Dengue Fever

FA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos, 2005

14Sport 15m, 4
12 Bug Off

FA: Wayne Mieth, Russell French, Roxy Mieth, 2005

14Sport 14m, 3
13 Ava Good Weekend Sport

FA: Darrin Carter, Wayne Mieth, Ross Ferguson, 2005

15Sport 12m
14 Mozzie Coil

Project. To be bolted.

Sport

1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.882004, -26.895713

Approach:

As per Mosquito Wall up to the rock apron, then walk right for 5 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beginners To Advanced

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

14Mixed 27m, 1
2 The Phantom Walks

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, 1995

15Mixed 27m, 1
3 Tides Out

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, Alex McConnell, 1995

12Trad 12m
4 Chips Ahoy

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, 1995

13Trad 12m
5 Gambier II

FA: Greg Stead, Chris Meadows, Bob Anthony, 1968

14Trad 30m
6 Gambier I

FA: FSA Rick White, 1968

14Trad 45m
7 Medosa

FA: John Tillock, Pete Giles, 1966

16Trad
8 First Come First Served

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

14Trad 25m
9 Release The Hounds

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

20Mixed 25m, 3
10 Ants Without Pants

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, 1995

18Mixed 25m, 3
11 Ants Without Pants VF

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

19Mixed 3
12 Edward Scissor Hands

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

23Mixed 25m, 3
13 Mixed Emotions

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, 1995

20Mixed 25m, 2
14 We Don't Do Thickshakes

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

18Mixed 40m, 3
15 Drope Rag

FA: Darrin Carter, Helen Conn, 1995

17Trad 40m
16 Thanks For The Plum

FA: Sean Smith, Darrin Carter, 1995

17Trad 45m
17 Flight Of The Phoenix

FA: Alex McConnell, Helen Conn, 1996

14Trad 40m
18 Surf's Up VS

FA: Sean Smith, Darrin Carter, 1996

20Mixed 3
19 Surf's Up

FA: Darrin Carter, Sean Smith, 1996

17Mixed 13m, 2
20 Project ,ross. 27Unknown 10m
21 Mr Busy

FA: Darrin Carter, 1999

25Sport 12m, 4
22 Obscuria

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1997

15Trad 15m

1.3.5. The Underworld 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.880894, -26.898147

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kenny Moans

FA: Mike Cook, Steve McMillan, Garrie O’Neil, 1997

17Trad 130m
2 Hades

FA: Mike Cook, Darrin Carter, 2000

20Trad 65m
3 Polydegmon

FA: Darrin Carter, Aaron Jones, Mike Cook, 2000

17Trad 65m
4 Vulcan

FA: Darrin Carter, Mike Cook, 2000

15Mixed 55m, 4
5 Midas

FA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole, 2000

16Trad 60m
6 Hermes

FA: Scott Lawrence, Brett Jewel, 2000

18Mixed 50m, 3
7 Hermes DS

FA: Darrin Carter, Scott Lawrence, 2000

17Trad
8 Medusa

FA: Scott Lawrence, Aaron Jones, 2000

17Mixed 50m, 3
9 Interview With A Vampire

FA: Darrin Carter, 2002

22Trad

1.3.6. Fern Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 152.880127, -26.898777

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kokoda

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 2004

21Trad 12m
2 Ski Nautique

FFA: Still waiting.

FA: Chris Gibson, 2004

21Mixed 12m, 2
3 (Open Project) ?(S)Sport 12m, 2
4 Plastic Fantastic

FA: Lee Cujes, Chris Gibson, Erik Smits, 2004

22Sport 12m, 2
5 Lost World

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

A1+Aid 18m, 1
6 Super League

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

16Trad 15m
7 Satan Spawn

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1996

22Mixed 15m, 3
8 Timecode

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

20Mixed 15m, 2

1.3.7. The Organ Pipes 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Aid and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.884092, -26.896374

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tribute A3Aid 110m
2 Ten Thousand Maniacs A4Aid 50m
3 Cuddles A3+Aid 90m
4 Crack Of Dawn A3+Aid 85m
5 Agitator A3Aid 90m
6 *** Stainless Anticlimb A1Aid 130m
7 *** Stainless Climb p1

FFA: Lee Cujes, John J O'Brien, 2012

26Sport 45m, 18
8 ** Stainless Climb p2

FFA: Lee Cujes, John J O'Brien, 2012

27Sport 20m
9 Leviathan A2+Aid

1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.886118, -26.895958

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hiker's Route

Currently closed.

1Unknown 360m
2 North East Beerwah 9Trad 340m
3 East Beerwah

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

1Unknown 390m
4 ClimbX1 15Unknown 13m
5 ClimbX2 15Unknown 13m
6 ClimbX3 13Unknown 14m
7 ClimbX4 11Unknown 14m
8 ClimbX5 15Unknown 15m
9 ClimbX6 15Unknown 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Why is Your Penis Hard

flat hold to gain jug move feet up then stretch to finishing jug.

Boulder 4m

1.3.9. Wayne's World 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.885905, -26.899228

Description:© (gremlin)

As Wayne's World is on the southern face there is no sun all day from mid March till early November. During these shaded times it is best to give it about 2 days to dry after rain. Most routes are fully bolted but take a light rack for the mixed routes (I have marked these and listed what gear to use). Take about 10 draws and bolt plates and I recommend some 10mm plates as some of the bolts are a bit fat. As with all Glasshouse destinations bring the Aerogard. Development is continuing so keep off the projects please.

I would like to thank Height Dynamics for donating the anchor stations, the thoughtful few that donated bolts, and the handful of dedicated climbers that helped me develop this area. Play safe! Wayne.

Approach:© (gremlin)

Google Map of Mt Beerwah

From the newly named Steve Irwin Way turn into Barrs Rd (which is just past 'The Glasshouse' Mountains Holiday Village) and continue past 'Mt Tibrogargan' to the Old Gympie Rd intersection. Turn left here then turn right at the Glasshouse- Woodford Rd. Continue on to the 'Glasshouse Mountains' Tourist 'Lookout'. Pass this and keep going and onto the gravel road for another 200 meters then turn right into Connection Rd. Follow this for about 3 kilometers till the third locked gate on the right. Park cars here. Follow the track downwards for about 10 minutes (ignoring the track on the left) till you reach a very small car park and big knobby grey gum on your left with a big log behind it, and a bigger knobby grey gum off the track on the right. From here turn left and follow the faint track and some pink markers for another 15 minutes till you reach the base of the mountain. You have made it!

Routes are listed from right to left...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gas Works DS

Start a couple of meters right of the "GW" mark. Up to carrot, climb continues up and left joining Gas Works.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

15Sport 26m
2 Gas Works
  1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

12Sport 26m, 5
3 Megga Happy Ending

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter, 2005

13Trad 25m
4 As If
  1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter., 2005

14Trad 25m
5 Mr. Biggg

2 bolts to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Max Cruz., 2006

12Sport 14m, 2
6 No Way

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

FFA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos., 2005

16Trad 23m
7 * Yes Way

Straight up then keep overhang on your right, continue onto chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Alex Cruz., 2005

16Sport 23m, 5
8 * We're Not Worthy

You will need to trail a rope to get off this one.

  1. 23m (16) Hard start to F/H, then follow left trending line to chains (optional small Alien Cam in crack). (March 2014 update: bring gardening tools if you have any intention of placing an Alien)

  2. 35m (16) Cruxy off the belay then at the 3rd bolt climb leftwards and up to pick up the line of left trending bolts to chains. Keep to the left of the small grassy bush near the top. Easy climbing in top section. Alternatively for those of you who don't want to trail a rope. Start as original then at the 3rd bolt head straight up to chains.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth. (Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, pitch 1), 2005

16Sport 58m
9 * Party On Dude

Blast up wide crack passing first bolt to good medium hex out left. Thin and sustained past next 2 bolts before the going get easier past another bolt, continue on and clip the last bolt of Were Not Worthy. Great at the grade. 5 bolts + medium hex.

Start: Start-crack line left of We're Not Worthy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

18Trad 23m
10 No Stairway To Heaven
  1. 20m (17) Climb line to chains, keeping bolts on your right. (If the bolts are on your left it is only a 16)

  2. -m (-) (project)

FA: Wayne Mieth, Wilfred Bos., 2006

17Sport 20m
11 Bite Me

Follow right trending line to chains above No 'Stairway to Heaven'.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst., 2006

17Trad 22m
12 ** White Castle

Follow line to chains under roof. Fun move off last bolt.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth., 2006

18Sport 24m
13 Excellent

Great moves for the grade.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst, 2006

16Sport 30m
14 Party Time

Straight up to chains. A tad bold.

FA: Wayne Mieth, Ross Ernst., 2006

19Sport 30m
15 It Will Be Mine p2

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

13Mixed 22m, 4
16 It Will Be Mine
  1. 30m (16) Was bolted on lead. Pass 4 bolts, then gear to chains. 4 bolts + trad. (Medium hex and big cam).

  2. 22m (13) Was bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 bolts to chains.

  3. -m (-) project.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth (Pitch 1: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter), 2005

16Trad 52m
17 Dream Weaver

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow bolts to chains. Last bolt needs a big bolt plate. Fun thought provoking moves. 7 bolts + optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt to ease the excitement.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

19Trad 31m
18 ** Game On

7 bolts + yellow alien cam.

Up easily past 2 token bolts, then things get a bit more serious.Between the 4th and 5th bolt place cam, but if you are feeling bold blast past this to the next bolt. Work your way up the flake to chains above 'No Honk'.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

18Trad 32m
19 No Honk
  1. 32m (17) Follow line of 8 bolts to chains on spacious ledge. A one move wonder, the rest of the climb is fairly easy.

  2. 25m (13) 4 bolts + trad. Was bolted on lead. Supplement line of bolts with small to medium hexes.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

17Trad 57m
20 No Honk p2

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

13Mixed 25m, 4
21 Extreme Close Up

Start at small featured groove placing gear then follow right trending line of bolts to chains with another small groove for gear between the first and second bolt. Shares the last 2 bolts with 'No Honk'. 5 bolts + trad. 'Small' hexes and medium to large wires. (For an easy multi pitch continue up pitch 2 of No Honk)

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

13Trad 31m
22 Foxy Lady

Start at featured flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Up flake to bolt, then up and left to gear. Continue straight up to chains. A fun climb with an easy middle section. 4 bolts + trad (Small hexes)

FA: Wayne Mieth & Debra Mieth, 2007

14Trad 28m
23 Bohemian Rhapsody (project) --Unknown
24 Ballroom Blitz (project) --Unknown
25 Noah's Arcade (project) --Unknown
26 The Nut

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

FA: Debra & Wayne Mieth, 2007

11Sport 22m
27 Burnt Cookies

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

FA: unknown (climbed and graded by Wayne and Debra), 2000

10Sport 28m
28 Noah’s Arcade

project

Start: Just left of previous climb.

Trad
29 Ballroom Blitz

project

Trad
30 Steep wall left of crack corner Trad
31 Gas Works Direct

Hard start then easy climbing to fun top section. 5 Bolts.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

15Sport 26m
32 Bohemian Rhapsody

(Project) crack corner system on left end of wall.

Trad

1.3.10. West Face 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.881771, -26.897313

Approach:

Easy bush-bash starting from a closed 4x4 track at S26.897070, E152.876763 (20 min from carpark). From here head west through the bush, the rock is 300m away from the track (approx. 20 min).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Why Can't It Be Longer

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7Trad 6m
2 Emma's Dilemma

FA: Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank, 1996

13Trad 15m
3 Bolts And Chips But No Mushy Peas

FA: Stuart Lancaster, Sean Smith, 1996

14Trad 15m
4 Bully's Bulge

FA: Alexis Bull, Emma Greenbank, 1996

16Trad 15m
5 Alpine Route

Starts 50m right of Mr. Busy Pillar (S152,884591, E26.897101) and could possibly be the "easiest" route to the summit from the west side. 110m in 3 pitches of soft rock grade 6 ascending traverse, easily protectable leading south to S26,89742, E152,88223, followed by a nasty steep bush-bash along the base of the lower shoulder (to east) on mank until flat clean rocks are reached (the bivouac S26,89745, E152,88183). From here scramble up to the summit on easier terrain following the northern base of the lower peak (the knob).

FFA: C. Brazzelli, B. Cobb, 2014

6Trad 380m
6 Break Of Noon

FA: Pitch 1, 2, 3: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 22/12/1996, Pitch 3 (extension), 4, 5 Wayne Meith, Darrin Carter 30/07/2004

15Trad 200m
7 Scotch Mist

FA: John Veasey, Rick White, 1968

17Trad 140m
8 Bombastic

FA: Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre, 1998

18Trad 25m
9 Acoustic Motorbike

FA: Darrin Carter, Grant LeLievre, 1998

15Mixed 22m, 1
10 What's Cooking

FA: Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil, 1998

18Mixed 20m, 3
11 Shiver Me Timbers

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Darrin Carter, 1997

19Trad 20m
12 By Hook Or By Cook

FA: Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil, 1998

15Trad 60m
13 Too Many Cooks

FA: Mike Cook, Garrie O’Neil, 1998

18Trad 60m
14 West Beerwah

FA: Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon, 1956

10Trad 91m

1.3.11. South Face 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.884562, -26.898513

Approach:

The south face can be accessed from Wayne's World access track or by following the rock apron left of Fern Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pilgrim's Progress

FA: W. Peascod, N. Lamb, D Groom, 1960

13Trad 260m
2 Mopoke Slabs

FA: W. Peascod, N. Lamb, L. Upfold 1960s

13Trad 260m
3 Why Not

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

13Trad 350m
4 Slip Knot

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, Brian Driscoll, 1966

10Trad 350m
5 Central Rib

FA: J. Stephenson, G. Broadbent, N. Lamb, 26th Jan

12Trad 400m

1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.887866, -26.893761

Description:

A selection of boulders that detached from the mountain long ago. Please help me out with the grading of the problems I have no idea about this V scale.

Approach:

It can be reached buy walking from the base of the summit track (currently closed) along The Short Cool Ones until The Uncut Diamond is reached on the left 20m from the rock face, or walk along the track to east Beerwah till the creek bed is reached, then turn right and follow the creek until the blue markers are reached then turn left following the markers till the boulders are reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Along The Arete Of The Brooding One

Nice layback arête to small stance, finish with dyno or not.

FFA: Brent Cobb, 29th Jun

V0Boulder 6m
2 open project Boulder Project 4m
3 Bluebird Sam

Nice solid holds, using the tree makes it easier.

FFA: Brent Cobb, 1st Jul

V1Boulder 3m
4 Crumbling Crimps

Up slab on rubbish crimps.

FFA: Brent Cobb, 1st Jul

V0Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Katie Made Me a Cup of Tea

FA: Brent Cobb, 1st Jul

V0Boulder 4m
6 Textures You Say V0Boulder 3m
7 Choss Face

Crimp, smear then dyno to sharp hold, easy top out. Rock is dodgy so be careful.

FFA: Brent Cobb, 1st Jul

V1Boulder 3m

1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed) 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.910891, -26.898104

Description:

The Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service (http://www.derm.qld.gov.au/parks_and_forests) closed Mt Coonowrin to all public access in 1999 based on the recommendations of a geological report. A substantial fine applies if you are caught climbing here. The climbs below are listed for historical purposes and in the hopes that the mountain will one day be reopened.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flameout

FA: Donn Groom, Ted Cais, 1966

17Trad 150m
2 Clarks Gully

FA: Jenny, Etty & Sara Clark, Willie Fraser, George Rowley, Jack Sairs, 1912

5Trad
3 Salmons Leap 3Trad 190m
4 Red Lips, Hair And Fingernails

FA: Joe Lynch, Fred From 1980's

21Mixed 50m, 1
5 Prime Rump

FA: Roger Bourne 1980's

21Trad 22m
6 Masturbating On The Spear Of Destiny

FA: Roger Bourne, Fred From 1980's

24Trad 20m
7 Technoboy 501

FA: Roger Bourne, Fred From 1980's

23Trad 22m
8 *** Chookneck

FA: Paul Hoskins 1980's

21Trad 25m
9 Rigid Digits For Frigid Midgets

FA: Gordon Bieske, Roger Bourne, Fred From 1980's

22Trad 25m
10 * Freddie Goes To Sybils

FA: Roger Bourne, Fred From 1980's

21Trad 25m
11 (Unknown 1) 20Trad 25m
12 *** East Crookneck

FA: Ron Cox, Pat Conaghan, John Comino, 19th Sep

FFA: Les Wood, Donn Groom, 1966

19Trad 80m
13 Pillar Of Joy

FA: Fred From, Rob Rankin, 1976

18Trad 20m
14 East Crookneck DS

FA: Trevor Gynther, Robert Staszewski

20Trad
15 Slick Gazelle

FA: Roger Bourne, Evan Bieskie, Fred From, John Fantini 1980's

21Trad 70m
16 Pump More Oil

FA: John Fantini 1980's

23Trad 70m
17 Blackened Decker

FA: Roger Bourne, Evan Bieskie 1980's

23Trad 80m
18 Blackened Decker Burnout Finish 22Trad 25m
19 Light Years Away

FA: John Fantini, Robert Staszewski, 1984

23Trad 70m
20 Light Years Away DF 22 A1Aid 35m
21 Paras And Quads

FA: Fred From, Joe Lynch 1980's

21Trad 70m
22 Luxury Length

FA: Roger Bourne, Fred From, John Fantini 1980's

22Trad 70m
23 K. Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead 1980's

23Trad 70m
24 A Cup Of Tea, A Bex And A Good Lie Down

FA: Fred From, Warren Lee 1980s

21Mixed 55m, 2
25 Mr. Squiggle

FA: Joe Lynch, Fred From 1980s

21Trad 30m
26 Knee Shaker

FA: Alan Millbond, Rod Bolton

13Trad 37m
27 Stairs

FA: Rick White, Rod Bolton, Alan Brown, 1969

7Trad 22m
28 Wild Fruche Fetish

FA: Graham Sanders, Terry Lilenfield

25Sport 12m, 2
29 Pump It Up

FA: Jon Pearson

26Mixed 12m, 3
30 ** Wildfire

FA: Rob Staszewski, Clive Heckenberg, 1971

21Trad 13m
31 (Unknown 2) 24Unknown 11m
32 North East Ramp 14Trad 99m
33 The Track 3Unknown 170m
34 North West Route 6Unknown
35 Mank Master

FA: Dave Reeve, Sid Tanner, Tony Cox, Pauline McMahon, 1968

7Trad 99m
36 Mank Master DF -Unknown
37 West Face Route

FA: Peter Barnes, Peter Marendy, 7th Aug

8Trad

1.4.1. North Face 0 routes in Area

1.4.2. East Face 0 routes in Area

1.4.3. South Face 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Butterfly

FA: Rob Rankin, Gary Huish, John Parslow

16 M2Aid 30m
2 Flameout

FA: Donn Groom, Ted Cais, 1966

17Trad 130m

1.4.4. West Face 0 routes in Area

1.5. Dwarfland 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 152.936579, -26.943118

Unique Features And Strengths:

A sport crag of diminutive proportions!

Description:

'Dwarfland' is a small buttress hidden in the forest south of 'Mt Tibrogargan'. It's hard to find, there's only seven climbs and none of them are longer than 12m. Nonetheless it's well worth a visit. The climbs are well-protected & fun, it has that off-the-beaten-track feel and there's beautiful panoramas incorporating all the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

All climbs have fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) with double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. The approach reaches the cliff at its rightmost end. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or west to east). The wall at 'No Biggie' & 'Elfin' is north-facing and has sun almost all day. The wall at 'Nadir', etc is east-facing and is partially shaded by trees in the morning, completely shady in the afternoon. 'Like Icecream For Spiders' gets some afternoon shade too.

Approach:

'Dwarfland' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 6km before turning left at the rest area, as for 'Mt Tibrogargan'. Turn left down Caves Rd at the railway bridge. Drive along this road (don't turn down Caves Lane) passing a road on the right leading towards Mt Tibberoowuccum at 2km (there's a National Parks sign here but it's not otherwise signposted). About 0.5km past this is a forestry road on the right with a 4WD track opposite on the left (GPS 29.938686 S, 152.933156 E). Park here.

View driving map

From here it's only 700m walk to the crag. However there's no track so it's a bushbash through waist high grass and over small creekbeds. It takes 15 minutes if you go the right way, longer if you get lost.

Walk about 100m along the 4WD track, then veer off into the bush to the left. Bushbash in a roughly SE direction over a saddle between two low hills. After 400m or so you should see the cliff up to your right.

If you have GPS it's much easier. Head towards 26.94302 S, 152.936354 E.

View walking map

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Biggie

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the dark, north-facing, columnar wall you first come to when approaching 'Dwarfland'.

Stem up the shaft past 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'Elfin'.

FA: Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith, 2000

21Sport 12m, 4
2 Elfin

Start 2m L of 'No Biggie'.

Follow the line of 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'No Biggie'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

22Sport 12m, 4
3 Like Icecream For Spiders

Start in the corner about 20m L along the cliff from 'Elfin' & 'No Biggie'.

Climb the corner then traverse R onto the face and up past 4 FHs to the anchors.

The anchors consist of 2 solid FHs with rusty maillons. It's possible for the last person to climb to walk off if lowering/rapping off the maillons doesn't feel safe. Or do everyone else a favour and bring a couple of quality maillons to replace the rusty ones.

FA: Dan Pit, Scott Lawrence, 1998

19Sport 10m, 4
4 Nadir

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the east-facing wall about 15m L along the cliff from 'Like Icecream For Spiders'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the 'De Shrünkenklimb' DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith, 2000

18Sport 10m, 3
5 * De Shrünkenklimb

Start 2m L of 'Nadir'.

Climb past 3 FHs to the DBB.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

23Sport 9m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Red Dwarf

Start 5m L of 'De Shrünkenklimb'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the DBB shared with 'Bijou'. Consider stickclipping the 1st bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin, Neil Monteith, 2000

22Sport 9m, 3
7 ** Bijou

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the wall, 2m L of 'Red Dwarf'.

Climb past 3 FHs then R to the DBB shared with 'Red Dwarf'. Really nice moves in the first half.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, 2000

23Sport 8m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 * West Track Unknown 370m 1.1.13. West Face
East Beerwah Unknown 390m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
* Hiker's Route Unknown 360m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
2 Traverse To Cave 4 Trad 40m 1.1.7. Caves Route Sector
3 Dancing in the Rain Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Salmons Leap Trad 190m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
The Track Unknown 170m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
4 *** Caves Route Trad 300m 1.1.7. Caves Route Sector
Caves Route Alternative Trad 1.1.7. Caves Route Sector
Prometheus I Trad 120m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Cruel to be Kind Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Easy Solo Trad 13m 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
Access Route Trad 10m 1.2.6. Babylon
5 Kind to be Cruel Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Alchemist Trad 60m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Left Right Out Trad 23m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Bulbasaur Trad 17m 1.2.6. Babylon
Piss Easy Trad 25m 1.2.6. Babylon
Clarks Gully Trad 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
6 Keyhole Trad 44m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Boulder Problem Gone Wrong Trad 50m 1.2.6. Babylon
Alpine Route Trad 380m 1.3.10. West Face
North West Route Unknown 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
7 Breakaway Trad 38m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Good Vibrations Trad 33m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Bee Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Cee Gee Also Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Next In Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Caterpie Trad 20m 1.2.4. The Sentinels
Baby Grit Trad 15m 1.2.6. Babylon
Charmander Trad 18m 1.2.6. Babylon
Pikachu Trad 18m 1.2.6. Babylon
Why Can't It Be Longer Trad 6m 1.3.10. West Face
Mank Master Trad 99m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Stairs Trad 22m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II Traverse Trad 60m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Orpheus Trad 150m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
South Face Route Trad 190m 1.1.14. South Face
North Face Route Trad 87m 1.1.15. North Face
Cold Girl Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Plumb Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Walk The Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Butterfree Trad 20m 1.2.4. The Sentinels
Purple Pack Trad 25m 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
Acquitted Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Avenger VS Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
I'll Think Of Something Else Trad 28m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
West Face Route Trad 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
9 Hercules Trad 30m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Keloid Trad 45m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Centre Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Side Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Pockets Of Fun Sport 15m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Smearete Trad 12m 1.2.6. Babylon
North East Beerwah Trad 340m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
10 The Fires of Jealousy Trad 25m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* Caves Route Direct Trad 40m 1.1.7. Caves Route Sector
** Black Orpheus Trad 140m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Earthenware Trad 25m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Wasp Trad 83m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Inspiration Trad 13m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Felp Trad 200m 1.1.13. West Face
Space Dust Sport 28m, 5 1.2.1. Andromeda
Daily Constitutional Trad 36m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Linkage Trad 15m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Vertical Cabbage Trad 41m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Angie Too Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Main Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Razor Sedge Trad 10m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Dinosaurs And Volcanos Trad 30m 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice Sport 15m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Avenger Trad 90m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Lady With the Handbag Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
* What A Dish Trad 25m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Burnt Cookies Sport 28m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
West Beerwah Trad 91m 1.3.10. West Face
Slip Knot Trad 350m 1.3.11. South Face
11 * Carborundum Chimney Trad 82m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Kronos Trad 23m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II VF Trad 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Black Orpheus Variant Trad 35m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Rock Garden Trad 220m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
The North-East Buttress Trad 300m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Galaxy Sport 26m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Nebula Sport 10m, 3 1.2.1. Andromeda
Trench Tactics Trad 35m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Ballsup Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Fine Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Acid Dropper Trad 30m 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
Flat Out Trad 30m 1.2.6. Babylon
Order In The Court Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Aeroguard Sport 14m, 5 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
ClimbX4 Unknown 14m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
The Nut Sport 22m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
12 Monkey Goes Wild About Heaven Trad 20m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Faith Trad 100m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Super Directissima Trad 23m 1.1.7. Caves Route Sector
Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4 1.1.8. Summit Cave
The Whiteman Trad 150m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Wasp RHV Trad 69m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Orbital Tether Sport 10m, 3 1.2.1. Andromeda
Singularity Sport 26m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Roof Climb Trad 15m 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Where's Marty? Sport 10m, 2 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Dog's Balls Trad 50m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Sticky Fingers Trad 18m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Air Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Denim Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
My Little Sphinx Trad 8m 1.2.4. The Sentinels
As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue Sport 25m, 7 1.2.6. Babylon
I'll Think Of Something Trad 25m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Tides Out Trad 12m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Gas Works Sport 26m, 5 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Mr. Biggg Sport 14m, 2 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Central Rib Trad 400m 1.3.11. South Face
13 ** Patience Crack VS Trad 96m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Juno Trad 30m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Jupiter Trad 39m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus III Trad 13m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Short And Sweet Trad 35m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Trojan Trad 72m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Directissima Trad 98m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
* Blabbermouth VS Trad 22m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Tribulation Trad 25m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Felp II Trad 300m 1.1.13. West Face
Orion's Belt Sport 25m, 5 1.2.1. Andromeda
Star Dust Sport 17m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Flat Battery Sport 10m, 3 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Passive Action Unknown 17m 1.2.2.4. The Cave (closed)
Angie Trad 18m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Deep Purple Trad 25m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
The Chossmaster Trad 78m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
A Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Dishonour Before Death Trad 10m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Slow Motion Grass Smoker Sport 30m 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
Fillament Sport 22m, 4 1.2.6. Babylon
Friday Afternoon Nutcases Trad 20m 1.2.6. Babylon
Heinzinator Sport 14m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Shit Scary Trad 20m 1.2.6. Babylon
Burke's Backyard Trad 80m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Chocolates VS Mixed 25m, 3 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
The Artful Dodger Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
New Shoe Shuffle Trad 45m 1.3.2. Turtle's Back Wall
Malaria Sport 14m, 3 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Chips Ahoy Trad 12m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
ClimbX3 Unknown 14m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
Extreme Close Up Trad 31m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
It Will Be Mine p2 Mixed 22m, 4 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Megga Happy Ending Trad 25m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
No Honk p2 Mixed 25m, 4 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Emma's Dilemma Trad 15m 1.3.10. West Face
Mopoke Slabs Trad 260m 1.3.11. South Face
Pilgrim's Progress Trad 260m 1.3.11. South Face
Why Not Trad 350m 1.3.11. South Face
Knee Shaker Trad 37m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
14 Monkey Swallows The Universe Trad 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Heliosphere Sport 35m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
The Court Jester p1 Trad 15m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Vagabond Trad 150m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
After Dinner Delight Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Banana King Sport 12m, 5 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Glove Slap Sport 12m, 5 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Vege Abattoir Trad 13m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Microtome Trad 100m 1.1.13. West Face
Rain Drops Trad 45m 1.1.14. South Face
Absolute Zero Sport 10m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Event Horizon Sport 17m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Lithium Grit Trad 10m 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Leaning Tower Trad 27m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Ultra Violet Catastrophe Trad 23m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Dang Fool Sport 10m, 2 1.2.6. Babylon
Fool's Errand Sport 10m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Drop Zone Trad 75m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Eye On Crime Trad 30m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Gun Control Trad 260m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Proven Guilty Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Time On Your Hands Trad 50m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Wandering Madness Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Waterboy Mixed 45m, 2 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Bug Off Sport 14m, 3 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Dengue Fever Sport 15m, 4 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Beginners To Advanced Mixed 27m, 1 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
First Come First Served Trad 25m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Flight Of The Phoenix Trad 40m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Gambier I Trad 45m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Gambier II Trad 30m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
As If Trad 25m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Foxy Lady Trad 28m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Bolts And Chips But No Mushy Peas Trad 15m 1.3.10. West Face
North East Ramp Trad 99m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
15 * Such A Nice Monster Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
unknown Trad 30m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Troposphere p1 Sport 30m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Troposphere p4 Sport 25m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Lancelot Trad 90m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* Patience Crack Trad 86m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Overexposed Trad 120m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Black Angus Trad 110m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Desperation Wall Trad 130m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
More Smart More Safe Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
The Mgical Liopleurodon Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
The Real Rainbow Unicorn Sport 12m, 5 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Vagabond Trad 35m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Alien Encounter Sport 18m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Dark Matter Sport 17m 1.2.1. Andromeda
Interstellar Journey Sport 20m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Lunar Eclipse Sport 17m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Sexy Legs Trad 15m 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Get Into The Groove Mixed 50m, 6 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Kicking Brass Mixed 50m, 3 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
* Bridge Over Troubled Waters Trad 42m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy Trad 40m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy VF Trad 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gyroscope Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Icehouse Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Rubber Soul Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Tree Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Prehistoric Dog Sport 30m 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
Barracuda Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Dark And Stormy Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Drop Zone Variant Trad 45m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Jury's Out Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Mistaken Identity Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Short Circuit Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
* Super Size Me Sport 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Foot Fetish Trad 45m 1.3.2. Turtle's Back Wall
Ava Good Weekend Sport 12m, 3 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Ava Good Weekend Sport Sport 12m 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Bitten Sport 14m, 5 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Larva Sport 18m 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Low Irritant Sport 12m, 3 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Ross Linker Fever Sport 16m 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Tropical Strength Sport 14m, 5 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Obscuria Trad 15m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
The Phantom Walks Mixed 27m, 1 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Vulcan Mixed 55m, 4 1.3.5. The Underworld
ClimbX1 Unknown 13m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
ClimbX2 Unknown 13m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
ClimbX5 Unknown 15m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
ClimbX6 Unknown 15m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
Gas Works DS Sport 26m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Gas Works Direct Sport 26m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Acoustic Motorbike Mixed 22m, 1 1.3.10. West Face
Break Of Noon Trad 200m 1.3.10. West Face
By Hook Or By Cook Trad 60m 1.3.10. West Face
V0 Along The Arete Of The Brooding One Boulder 6m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
Crumbling Crimps Boulder 4m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
Katie Made Me a Cup of Tea Boulder 4m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
Textures You Say Boulder 3m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
16 The Horse Sport 12m, 4 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Aphelion p1 / Voyager p1 Sport 35m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Troposphere p5 Sport 30m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Apricots Trad 28m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* Clemency Trad 230m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* Dreadnought Trad 380m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
Steaming Trad 60m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Overexposed DF Trad 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Line Of Credit Sport 70m, 23 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Fairy Floss Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
** Blabbermouth Trad 200m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Domestos Trad 15m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Highlander Trad 45m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Asteroid Belt Sport 18m, 3 1.2.1. Andromeda
Black Hole Sport 10m, 3 1.2.1. Andromeda
Coal Sack Mixed 17m, 2 1.2.1. Andromeda
Solar Eclipse Sport 20m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Space Ride Sport 28m, 7 1.2.1. Andromeda
Synchronous Orbit Sport 27m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Cardiac Arrest Trad 30m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Xposure Trad 45m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
** CUFA Trad 40m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Carmen Revisited Trad 42m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Classical Gas Trad 27m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Hex Heaven Trad 50m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stand To Trad 40m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
The Revenge of Chossmaster Trad 15m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Tower Of Power Trad 20m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Funky Bass Line Trad 20m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Silver Lining Trad 15m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Slap Slap Shit Splat Trad 30m 1.2.6. Babylon
Blackout Trad 85m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Chocolates Mixed 25m, 1 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Guillotine Mixed 15m, 3 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Gun Control (pitch 6 alternate) Trad 25m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Mr Lazyboots Trad 85m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Third Degree Trad 20m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Dot Soul Trad 45m 1.3.2. Turtle's Back Wall
Rid Sport 14m, 4 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Medosa Trad 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Midas Trad 60m 1.3.5. The Underworld
Super League Trad 15m 1.3.6. Fern Wall
Excellent Sport 30m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
It Will Be Mine Trad 52m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
No Way Trad 23m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
* We're Not Worthy Sport 58m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
* Yes Way Sport 23m, 5 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Bully's Bulge Trad 15m 1.3.10. West Face
16 M2 The Butterfly Aid 30m 1.4.3. South Face
17 Blowing Bubbles Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Troposphere p2 Sport 15m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Voyager p4 Sport 30m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
* Guenevere Trad 90m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
Tested Twisticle (left) Trad 32m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
Spooky House Trad 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
* The Court Jester p2 Trad 20m 1.1.5. Halfway House
** Remains Of The Day Trad 150m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Walk the Line Sport 25m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Zeitgeist Sport 120m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Critter Christmas Sport 12m, 5 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
** Lichen the Candy Sport 12m, 6 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Old Elvis Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
This Mountain Tastes Nothing Like Candy Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
Armageddon Sport 13m, 2 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
On Bended Knee Trad 45m 1.1.14. South Face
Horse Head Nebula Sport 17m, 3 1.2.1. Andromeda
Bad Move Sport 10m, 2 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
Hairy Legs Trad 15m 1.2.2.1. Flat Battery Wall
AWOL Sport 18m, 4 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
** Absentia Sport 20m, 5 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
(Unknown 1) Unknown 20m 1.2.2.4. The Cave (closed)
Bourgeois Bullshitter Trad 30m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Cantankerous Cantelope Trad 35m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Carpe Jugular Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Ensorcelled Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Fallen Knight Trad 25m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gone Cruisin' Trad 30m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Heartache Trad 38m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite Sport 12m, 5 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Previous Commitment Trad 42m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stop The Bus Trad 25m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Flatliner Trad 15m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Groove Armada Trad 25m 1.2.4. The Sentinels
Hijinx Sport 16m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
** Assumed Innocent Trad 60m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Columbian Necktie Trad 95m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Sharks Patrol These Waters Trad 15m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Weight Watchers Mixed 40m, 2 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Drope Rag Trad 40m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Surf's Up Mixed 13m, 2 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Thanks For The Plum Trad 45m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Hermes DS Trad 1.3.5. The Underworld
Kenny Moans Trad 130m 1.3.5. The Underworld
Medusa Mixed 50m, 3 1.3.5. The Underworld
Polydegmon Trad 65m 1.3.5. The Underworld
Bite Me Trad 22m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
No Honk Trad 57m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
No Stairway To Heaven Sport 20m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Scotch Mist Trad 140m 1.3.10. West Face
Flameout Trad 150m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Flameout Trad 130m 1.4.3. South Face
18 Swinger Sport 19m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Rattle Sport 25m 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
C Section Sport 25m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
** Rubicon p1 Sport 45m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
* Troposphere p3 Sport 15m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Dreadnought VF Trad 75m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* Tested Twisticle (right) Trad 35m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* The Sword In The Stone Trad 25m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Insurrection Sport 25m, 7 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p2 Sport 15m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Prometheus II DF Trad 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Tell Him He's Dreaming Trad 29m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Charlie Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
* Cookie Monster Sport 12m, 5 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
One Eyed Wanderer Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
** Tommy Dodd Trad 100m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Flame 'n' Sparks Trad 25m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Liquid Pleasures Trad 15m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Peeping Tom Trad 8m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Better You Than Me Trad 50m 1.1.14. South Face
* Gravitational Equilibrium Sport 20m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Graviton Sport 12m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Mars Sport 12m, 5 1.2.1. Andromeda
Southern Cross Sport 20m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Worm Hole Sport 17m, 4 1.2.1. Andromeda
Afternoon Delight Sport 7m, 3 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
Morning Madness Sport 10m, 4 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
Old Scholars Sport 20m, 6 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Summer Holiday Sport 24m, 5 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Bloodsucker Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Marathon Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Not Recommended For Children Trad 35m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Visions Of A Transmitter Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Visions Of A Transmitter DF Trad 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Hard Core Trad 15m 1.2.3.2. Nursery Cliff
Prehistoric Dog Hueco Variant Sport 1.2.5. The Hidden Slabs
Acumen VF Mixed 40m, 2 1.2.6. Babylon
Aqua Aerobics Mixed 30m, 1 1.2.6. Babylon
Cut Short Trad 20m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Don't Scratch My New Ute Trad 90m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Reunion Mixed 45m, 2 1.3.2. Turtle's Back Wall
Ants Without Pants Mixed 25m, 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
We Don't Do Thickshakes Mixed 40m, 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Hermes Mixed 50m, 3 1.3.5. The Underworld
** Game On Trad 32m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
* Party On Dude Trad 23m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
** White Castle Sport 24m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Bombastic Trad 25m 1.3.10. West Face
Too Many Cooks Trad 60m 1.3.10. West Face
What's Cooking Mixed 20m, 3 1.3.10. West Face
Pillar Of Joy Trad 20m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Nadir Sport 10m, 3 1.5. Dwarfland
19 Something About Sandy Sport 13m, 5 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Rescision Sport 15m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
** Divergence Trad 20m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
Rocketsauce Sport 12m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Tenacious D Sport 12m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Ideas Man Trad 30m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
* Ishoni Trad 35m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
Papa Smurf Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
** Sunburnt Buttress Trad 190m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Dawn Raid Sport 9m, 3 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
Baby Driver Trad 25m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gossamer Threads Sport 13m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Entrapment Mixed 15m, 3 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Just Juice Trad 150m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Ants Without Pants VF Mixed 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Dream Weaver Trad 31m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Party Time Sport 30m 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Shiver Me Timbers Trad 20m 1.3.10. West Face
*** East Crookneck Trad 80m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Like Icecream For Spiders Sport 10m, 4 1.5. Dwarfland
V1 Bluebird Sam Boulder 3m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
Choss Face Boulder 3m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
20 * The Robot Devil Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Alienation Trad 18m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
** Hungry Beast Sport 15m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Banished For Infidelity Sport 170m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
First Contact Sport 20m, 7 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Into Darkness Sport 18m, 7 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Leaving On A Jet Plane Sport 25m, 8 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Nine Month Sojourn Sport 25m, 8 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
*** My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma p1 Sport 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Staple It Together Sport 27m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Happy Pants Sport 12m 1.1.10. Candy Mountain
* Sideshow Bob Trad 250m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* The Chris Mann Route Trad 98m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Brick Boxes Sport 20m, 4 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
* The Black Planet Sport 20m, 4 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
** Present And Accounted For Sport 18m, 4 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Watch Your Back Jack Mixed 18m, 4 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Six Sided Hell Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Acumen Mixed 35m, 4 1.2.6. Babylon
Rumble In The Jungle Sport 16m, 4 1.2.6. Babylon
Strange Ritual Mixed 30m, 3 1.2.6. Babylon
Mixed Emotions Mixed 25m, 2 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Release The Hounds Mixed 25m, 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Surf's Up VS Mixed 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Hades Trad 65m 1.3.5. The Underworld
Timecode Mixed 15m, 2 1.3.6. Fern Wall
(Unknown 1) Trad 25m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
East Crookneck DS Trad 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
16 to 21 * Phoenix Sport 70m, 21 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
21 A Shadow So Huge Sport 8m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Branigan's Law Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Overseer Sport 27m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Pigsy Sport 12m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* The Most Monstrous Monster Sport 13m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Floater Mixed 20m, 7 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
* Aphelion p2 Sport 12m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Cunningly Deceptive Mixed 25m, 2 1.1.5. Halfway House
** Airtime Over Pumicestone Trad 250m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
* Every Day I Start To Ooze Trad 18m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Insurrection VS Sport 28m, 8 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Big Empty p2 Sport 1m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Ronald Muck Trad 45m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Straight to the Pool Room Trad 30m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
** El Scorcho Trad 110m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
* Ross Miller Route Trad 190m 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Suburban Sprawl Variant Trad 15m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
* Serenade For Rings Sport 17m, 5 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Speed King Trad 45m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Witch Hunt Trad 15m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Brummagem Sport 13m, 2 1.2.6. Babylon
* Shanny Sport 18m 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Two & A Half Squirts Sport 20m, 5 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
Kokoda Trad 12m 1.3.6. Fern Wall
Ski Nautique Mixed 12m, 2 1.3.6. Fern Wall
A Cup Of Tea, A Bex And A Good Lie Down Mixed 55m, 2 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
*** Chookneck Trad 25m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
* Freddie Goes To Sybils Trad 25m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Mr. Squiggle Trad 30m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Paras And Quads Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Prime Rump Trad 22m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Red Lips, Hair And Fingernails Mixed 50m, 1 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Slick Gazelle Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
** Wildfire Trad 13m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
No Biggie Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Dwarfland
22 * Outrageous Coincidences Sport 8m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Procrastinator Sport 17m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Procrastislider Sport 16m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Slider Sport 16m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
What Monkey Calls The Dog-Woman Sport 8m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Ripple Sport 23m, 7 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
*** Aphelion p3 Sport 30m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
* Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3 Sport 10m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
** Latitudes Sport 35m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Rubicon p2 Sport 30m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
* Vernal Equinox Sport 28m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
** Voyager p2 Sport 12m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Caritas Sport 18m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
* The Mace Trad 18m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
Emu-less Trad 12m 1.1.5. Halfway House
* I Am No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
** Maponus p1 Trad 12m 1.1.5. Halfway House
*** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Circlet Sport 16m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Crikey Sport 10m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Four Seasons Sport 28m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Kitsch Sport 9m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Suburban Sprawl Trad 15m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Midnight Makeout Sport 7m, 3 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
The Pillar Connection Sport 15m, 4 1.2.2.2. Owl Pillar
Biyatch Pants Sport 25m, 5 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Forsaken Sport 20m, 5 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Strawberry Fields Trad 25m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Srama Sport 8m, 3 1.2.4. The Sentinels
Interview With A Vampire Trad 1.3.5. The Underworld
Plastic Fantastic Sport 12m, 2 1.3.6. Fern Wall
Satan Spawn Mixed 15m, 3 1.3.6. Fern Wall
Blackened Decker Burnout Finish Trad 25m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Luxury Length Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Rigid Digits For Frigid Midgets Trad 25m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Elfin Sport 12m, 4 1.5. Dwarfland
Red Dwarf Sport 9m, 3 1.5. Dwarfland
22 A1 Light Years Away DF Aid 35m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
23 * Magictrip Sport 20m, 7 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Monkey Magic Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Squealer Sport 18m, 6 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Squealer (pre 2005) Sport 21m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* The Minx And The Slug Sport 12m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* Tripitaka Sport 14m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Prairie Doggin Sport 12m, 4 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
** Voyager p3 Sport 100m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
Sent From Above Sport 12m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
** Bargearse Sport 15m 1.1.5. Halfway House
* Gut Punch The Budda Sport 12m 1.1.5. Halfway House
** Maponus p2 Sport 25m 1.1.5. Halfway House
* Liquid Skin Trad 18m 1.1.6. Carborundum Wall
Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p1 Sport 22m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Adrenaline Gives Me Gas p2 Sport 13m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* No Membership Required Sport 10m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Puniverse Sport 3 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Pool Room JSV (Jousting Sticks Variant) Trad 8m 1.1.9. Desperation Wall
The Kloske Conection Mixed 55m, 7 1.1.11. NE Buttress Sector
Brit Pop Trad 15m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Claustrophilia Sport 12m, 7 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Edward Scissor Hands Mixed 25m, 3 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Blackened Decker Trad 80m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
K. Carrigan Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Light Years Away Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Pump More Oil Trad 70m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Technoboy 501 Trad 22m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
** Bijou Sport 8m, 3 1.5. Dwarfland
* De Shrünkenklimb Sport 9m, 3 1.5. Dwarfland
24 ** Doctor Pinocchio Trad 20m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* Even Monsters Can Be People Sport 14m, 7 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Howler Sport 16m, 5 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* Monster Master (link up) Sport 20m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Overseer RHV Sport 30m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
* Procrastihowler Sport 20m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** The Vampire Master Sport 10m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Dumptruck Sport 12m, 6 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
* Zenith Sport 25m 1.1.3. Celestial Wall
*** Black Op's Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Storm Watch Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
*** The Elite Republican Guard Sport 15m 1.1.5. Halfway House
*** Voluptuous Sport 11m 1.1.5. Halfway House
* Littlebro Sport 9m, 4 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** One Alien, four people and a tree Sport 8m, 4 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Out Of The Blue And Into The Black Trad 80m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Raptures Trad 60m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Somebody Else's Weirdo Sport 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Strange Fruit Sport 25m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Feargrounds For Insanity Trad 20m 1.2.3.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Breakfast At Bobo's Mixed 45m, 4 1.3.1. Short Cool Ones Wall
(Unknown 2) Unknown 11m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
Masturbating On The Spear Of Destiny Trad 20m 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
25 ** Geppetto(Final Piece into Overseer) Trad 30m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Howler VF Sport 16m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Madder Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** The Final Piece Sport 17m, 6 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Wailer Sport 18m, 4 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Wowler Sport 18m, 5 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Dagda Sport 25m 1.1.5. Halfway House
** Love, Honour and Belay Sport 16m, 6 1.1.5. Halfway House
Switch Blade Honey Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
*** Back in Black Trad 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** High Definition Sport 20m, 6 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Hyperballad Sport 15m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Tangled Up In Blue p1 Sport 30m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Tangled Up In Blue p2 Sport 30m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Sweet Flower Girl Trad 10m 1.1.12. Shadow Glen
Full Monty Sport 15m, 8 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Mr Busy Sport 12m, 4 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
Wild Fruche Fetish Sport 12m, 2 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
26 ** Pinocchio's Extension Sport 28m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Procrastiwailer Sport 23m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Pigs In Space Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
Achilles Sport 10m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** In Between Dreams Sport 25m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
* Acid VF Sport 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
* Bum F**k Idaho Sport 20m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
*** Stainless Climb p1 Sport 45m, 18 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
Pump It Up Mixed 12m, 3 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
V6 ** Watermark Boulder 8m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
27 *** Chain Reaction Sport 30m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** Hybrid Vigour Sport 24m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Vigorous Procrastination Sport 1.1.1. Slider Wall
You win some you lose some Sport 15m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
*** The Simon Vos Memorial Sport 18m 1.1.4. Clemency Wall
** DV8 Sport 30m 1.1.5. Halfway House
*** The Bends Sport 15m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** Acid Sport 25m, 8 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
Project ,ross. Unknown 10m 1.3.4. Thanksgiving Wall
** Stainless Climb p2 Sport 20m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
28 *** The Expedition Sport 40m, 24 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** The Forty Metre Mile Sport 38m 1.1.1. Slider Wall
** Massive Attack Trad 28m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6 1.1.8. Summit Cave
** Idaho Sunshine Sport 20m 1.2.2.3. The Lower Main Cliff
29 *** Departures Sport 42m, 25 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Pandora Sport 42m, 25 1.1.1. Slider Wall
Groundhog Day Sport 16m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
*** The Beast from the East Sport 15m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
30 *** A Gaze Blank and Pitiless as the Sun Sport 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
? (Project) Unknown 12m 1.1.2. Porcelain Wall
(Link Project - LC) Sport Project 1.1.8. Summit Cave
(The Big Roof Project - Lee) Sport Project 20m 1.1.8. Summit Cave
Massive Attack p2 Sport Project 1.1.8. Summit Cave
(Unknown 2) Unknown 1.2.2.4. The Cave (closed)
Mozzie Coil Sport 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Mozzie Coil (project) Unknown 1.3.3. Mosquito Wall
Why is Your Penis Hard Boulder 4m 1.3.8. North-east face/Other Ground Level Routes
Ballroom Blitz Trad 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Bohemian Rhapsody Trad 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Noah’s Arcade Trad 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Steep wall left of crack corner Trad 1.3.9. Wayne's World
open project Boulder Project 4m 1.3.12. Spikey Green Jelly Slope
- Mank Master DF Unknown 1.4. Mt. Coonowrin (closed)
-- Ballroom Blitz (project) Unknown 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Bohemian Rhapsody (project) Unknown 1.3.9. Wayne's World
Noah's Arcade (project) Unknown 1.3.9. Wayne's World
?(S) (Open Project) Sport 12m, 2 1.3.6. Fern Wall
A1 *** Stainless Anticlimb Aid 130m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
A1+ Lost World Aid 18m, 1 1.3.6. Fern Wall
A2+ Leviathan Aid 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
A3 Agitator Aid 90m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
Tribute Aid 110m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
A3+ Crack Of Dawn Aid 85m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
Cuddles Aid 90m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes
A4 Ten Thousand Maniacs Aid 50m 1.3.7. The Organ Pipes