A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Upper Cliffs 65 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.934972, -26.899931

Description:

The Upper Cliffs are divided into two sections - Main Cliff and The Nursery Cliff. These two south-facing cliffs sport numerous cracks, corners and walls of good quality, with plentiful jugs and protection. This means the majority of climbs are in the low to medium grades and most are naturally protected. Most early climbs were initialled for easy location.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

Up to the summit via the tourist track then follow directions to the Main or Nursery cliffs.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

1.1. The Upper Main Cliff 42 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.934807, -26.899968

Approach:

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.

The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. When the path turns back right you should see a fairly obvious climbers trail with some markers in front of you - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.

Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

Routes are listed from right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Revenge of Chossmaster

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

16Trad 15m
2 The Chossmaster

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

  1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster' up to ledge and TB on gear.

  2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

  3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs' ledge. TB.

  4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO' up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

FFA: B. Cobb, C. Brazzelli, 2014

13Trad 78m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Classical Gas

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Considering bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971

16Trad 27m
4 Carpe Jugular

FA: L. Cujes, P. Newton, 1999

17Trad 45m
5 ** Visions Of A Transmitter

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen, Dan Meyers, 1994

18Trad 45m
6 *** Visions Of A Transmitter DF

FA: N. Monteith, M. Blumen, 1995

18Trad
7 ** Ensorcelled

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 *** Icehouse

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan, Steve Bell, 1975

15Trad 45m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Six Sided Hell

FA: L. Cujes, E. Smith, 1999

20Trad 45m
10 Hex Heaven

FA: R. Scott, 1991

16Trad 50m
11 Sticky Fingers

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge.

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

12Trad 18m
12 Angie

Set by S. Bell, B. Overs, D. Gilleson, 1971

13Trad 18m
13 Bloodsucker

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

FFA: D. Carter, J. Hattink, 1993

18Trad 45m
14 ** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

17Sport 12m, 5
15 * Witch Hunt

FA: N. Monteith, 1996

21Trad 15m
16 * Tower Of Power 16Trad 20m
17 Keyhole 6Trad 44m
18 Feeling Groovy 15Trad 40m
19 Feeling Groovy VF 15Trad
20 Heartache 17Trad 38m
21 Stand To 16Trad 40m
22 * Deep Purple

Start at DP mark up corner crack and good protection to ledge.

13Trad 25m
23 Leaning Tower 14Trad 27m
24 Rubber Soul

Pitch 1 from RS mark up pockets and cracks to ledge (weak tree or bomber gear in crack belay). Pitch 2 up in the chimney.

15Trad 45m
25 Gyroscope 15Trad 45m
26 Speed King 21Trad 45m
27 Marathon 18Trad 45m
28 Baby Driver 19Trad 25m
29 Carmen Revisited 16Trad 42m
30 Fallen Knight 17Trad 25m
31 Previous Commitment 17Trad 42m
32 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters 15Trad 42m
33 ** CUFA

Set by Unknown, 1970

16Trad 40m
34 Not Recommended For Children

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

18Trad 35m
35 Cantankerous Cantelope

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

17Trad 35m
36 Gone Cruisin'

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 30m
37 Bourgeois Bullshitter

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 30m
38 ** Feargrounds For Insanity

Set by N. Monteith, M. Blumen, D. Carter, 1994

24Trad 20m
39 Stop The Bus

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

17Trad 25m
40 Strawberry Fields

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

22Trad 25m
41 Ultra Violet Catastrophe

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

14Trad 23m
42 Alchemist

The scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall, marked "A" that follows the exposed crest to the summit of Ngungun.

5Trad 60m

1.2. Nursery Cliff 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.935273, -26.899863

Description:

Great little cliff that is just under vertical with plentiful jugs resulting in easy climbs with some nice exposure. Generally good gear provided by the cracks and pockets. Perfect beginner trad leader crag.

Approach:

Access the summit ridge via the tourist track. Walk along the ridge towards the summit then turn left (South) at a detached pillar.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Razor Sedge 10Trad 10m
2 Dishonour Before Death 13Trad 10m
3 Flatliner 17Trad 15m
4 Silver Lining 16Trad 15m
5 * Hard Core 18Trad 15m
6 Tree Line 15Trad 20m
7 Side Line 9Trad 20m
8 Walk The Line 8Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Main Line 10Trad 20m
10 Cee Gee Also 7Trad 20m
11 Cold Girl 8Trad 20m
12 Air Line 12Trad 20m
13 Fine Line 11Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Denim 12Trad 20m
15 Angie Too 10Trad 20m
16 A 13Trad 20m
17 Funky Bass Line 16Trad 20m
18 Ballsup 11Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Bee Line 7Trad 20m
20 Next In Line 7Trad 20m
21 Centre Line 9Trad 20m
22 Plumb Line 8Trad 20m
23 Left Right Out 5Trad 23m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Alchemist Trad 60m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Left Right Out Trad 23m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
6 Keyhole Trad 44m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
7 Bee Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Cee Gee Also Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Next In Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
8 Cold Girl Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Plumb Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Walk The Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
9 Centre Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Side Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
10 Angie Too Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Main Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Razor Sedge Trad 10m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
11 Ballsup Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Fine Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
12 Sticky Fingers Trad 18m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Air Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Denim Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
13 Angie Trad 18m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Deep Purple Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
The Chossmaster Trad 78m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
A Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Dishonour Before Death Trad 10m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
14 Leaning Tower Trad 27m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Ultra Violet Catastrophe Trad 23m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
15 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters Trad 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy Trad 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy VF Trad 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gyroscope Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Icehouse Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Rubber Soul Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Tree Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
16 ** CUFA Trad 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Carmen Revisited Trad 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Classical Gas Trad 27m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Hex Heaven Trad 50m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stand To Trad 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
The Revenge of Chossmaster Trad 15m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Tower Of Power Trad 20m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Funky Bass Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Silver Lining Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
17 Bourgeois Bullshitter Trad 30m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Cantankerous Cantelope Trad 35m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Carpe Jugular Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Ensorcelled Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Fallen Knight Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gone Cruisin' Trad 30m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Heartache Trad 38m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite Sport 12m, 5 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Previous Commitment Trad 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stop The Bus Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Flatliner Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
18 Bloodsucker Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Marathon Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Not Recommended For Children Trad 35m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Visions Of A Transmitter Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Visions Of A Transmitter DF Trad 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Hard Core Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
19 Baby Driver Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
20 Six Sided Hell Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
21 Speed King Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Witch Hunt Trad 15m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
22 Strawberry Fields Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
24 ** Feargrounds For Insanity Trad 20m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff