Site navigation

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cris Brazzelli Lee Cujes PattyD Brendan Heywood Matt Boulton Dave Gareth Llewellin russ

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Upper Cliffs 63 routes in Area

21
1 The Upper Main Cliff, 2 Nursery Cliff
Summary:
?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.934972, -26.899931

Description:

The Upper Cliffs are divided into two sections - Main Cliff and The Nursery Cliff. These two south-facing cliffs sport numerous cracks, corners and walls of good quality, with plentiful jugs and protection. This means the majority of climbs are in the low to medium grades and most are naturally protected. Most early climbs were initialled for easy location.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

Up to the summit via the tourist track then follow directions to the Main or Nursery cliffs.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

1.1. The Upper Main Cliff 40 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.934807, -26.899968

Approach:

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit. To get to the base of this impressive wall continue past the Cave on the walking track to the summit. Once at the halfway plateau/lookout continue about 125m up the main track until a small white arrow on a rock marks a faint track leading off L (before the turtle-shell rock). Leave the main path here and follow the vague path L and then down and around to the base of the Main Cliff. This path is quite hard to find now and it is a bit of a bush bash. The easiest descent from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Classical Gas

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Climb out, or you may wish to bring tape to rap off. Good protection.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971

16
Trad 27m
andy redmond 5 years ago

Not great. Added new rap sling 10.11.07

Ashley Moore 6 years ago

I think I did this one. with Rebecca

2 * Carpe Jugular
17
Unknown 45m
Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago

good pro and moves. 2nd pitch is exciting!

Stephen Parker 11 years ago

Second both pitches

3 ** Visions Of A Transmitter

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen, Dan Meyers, 1994

18
Trad 45m
Scott Godwin 12 weeks ago

With Jason. Great climbing even though the bomberness of the rock is a bit suspect.

Dan Lukis 6 years ago

Brilliant climb, great moves, a solid lead by Johan. The moves over the roof were great.

4 *** Visions Of A Transmitter DF
18
Unknown
Dan Lukis 6 years ago

Brilliant climb, great moves, a solid lead by Johan. The moves over the roof were great.

Simon Vos 10 years ago

Excellent

5 ** Ensorcelled

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17
Trad 45m
Cameron Semple 4 months ago

Great climb. Some balancy moves.Watch out for the wasp nest in a little scoop on the left about h...

Dan Lukis 5 years ago

2nd Anna, excellent moves and a fun roof to cap it all off.

6 *** Icehouse

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan, Steve Bell, 1975

15
Trad 45m
PattyD 12 weeks ago

More a test of your head than your arms, 50m is a long way to keep you sh1t together. I almost lo...

Scott Godwin 12 weeks ago

With Laura. Great route

7 Six Sided Hell
20
Unknown 45m
Lee Cujes 13 years ago

Third lead shot. Lots of small wires.

8 Hex Heaven
16
Unknown 50m
9 Sticky Fingers
12
Unknown 18m
Kyle Brandon 4 months ago

Fun climb. Crack can be a bit sandy but placements are still bomber.

William Deasy 4 years ago

Unusually Stout for it's grade

10 Angie
13
Unknown 18m
Greg Zadro 5 years ago

Nice moves... Great Bridging

Dan Lukis 5 years ago

Once again nice bridging, Greg got this one clean.

11 * Bloodsucker
18
Unknown 45m
Tom Reid 4 months ago

first pitch of our mini multi

Greg Zadro 5 years ago

First pitch (10) only

12 ** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

17
Sport 12m , 5
Tom Reid 4 months ago

3rd pitch of our mini multi. lots of fun but also wearing quite thin.

DomL 12 months ago

Excellent climb with a real feeling of exposure, if only it were a bit longer

13 * Witch Hunt
21
Unknown 15m
Jeremy Goble 8 years ago

Very nice!

Lee Cujes 13 years ago

Aaron took a big whipper on this

14 * Tower Of Power
16
Unknown 20m
Tom Reid 4 months ago

felt very hard for 16, most of the holds seem basically worn off. still very fun out on the pillar!

Bruce McDougall 2 years ago

Awesome climb, surprisingly good fun!

15 Keyhole
6
Unknown 44m
16 Feeling Groovy
15
Unknown 40m
10 years ago

great long climb, great view

17 Feeling Groovy VF
15
Unknown
18 Heartache
17
Unknown 38m
19 Stand To
16
Unknown 40m
20 Deep Purple
13
Trad 25m
Cris Brazzelli 8 months ago

Sandbag

Bruce McDougall 2 years ago

A bit wet, with Mark and Jet

21 Leaning Tower
14
Unknown 27m
Matt Boulton 5 years ago

Finished up Rubber Soul Chimney. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Dan Lukis 5 years ago

Not bad for an off-width, Eddie did the climb inside the 4 sided chimney, he is a sick man :)

22 Rubber Soul
15
Trad 45m
Matt Boulton 5 years ago

Great pro, great climbing, and some nice jambing and chimneying stuff at the top.

andy redmond 5 years ago

led p2, seconded p1 with Matty S

23 Gyroscope
15
Unknown 45m
24 Speed King
21
Unknown 45m
25 Marathon
18
Unknown 45m
26 Baby Driver
19
Unknown 25m
27 Carmen Revisited
16
Unknown 42m
Mark Gamble 8 years ago

Nice climb & nice lead by Dave. Bit of a scary run-out crux.

28 Fallen Knight
17
Unknown 25m
29 Previous Commitment
17
Unknown 42m
Dan Lukis 5 years ago

Quite sustained with some very committing moves, but good gear. Pushing my limit for leading at ...

30 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters
15
Unknown 42m
Dan Lukis 5 years ago

Not too bad. Similar to PC with an easier start.

Ian Palmer 6 years ago

Nice crack climb for Glasshouse- lots of jamming

31 ** CUFA
16
Unknown 40m
32 Not Recommended For Children
18
Unknown 35m
Neil Monteith 18 years ago

Scary

33 Cantankerous Cantelope
17
Unknown 35m
34 Gone Cruisin'
17
Unknown 30m
Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago

with Ben Carter. runout and hard for the grade. Good climbing though. The hand crack is way shall...

Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago

with Ben Carter. runout and hard for the grade. Good climbing though. The hand crack is way shall...

35 Bourgeois Bullshitter
17
Unknown 30m
Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago

Good moves but solid at 17 and a bit dirty. runout and tricky to protect

36 ** Feargrounds For Insanity
24
Unknown 20m
Simon Vos 9 years ago

The route rocks, awesome bouldery start then sustained technicality to the top...

Lee Cujes 13 years ago

about 6 rests on top rope

37 Stop The Bus
17
Unknown 25m
38 Strawberry Fields
22
Unknown 25m
39 Ultra Violet Catastrophe
14
Unknown 23m
40 Alchemist
5
Unknown 60m

1.2. Nursery Cliff 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.935273, -26.899863

Description:

Great little cliff that is just under vertical with plentiful jugs resulting in easy climbs with some nice exposure. Generally good gear provided by the cracks and pockets. Perfect beginner trad leader crag.

Approach:

Access the summit ridge via the tourist track. Walk along the ridge towards the summit then turn left (South) at a detached pillar.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Razor Sedge
10
Trad 10m
Dan Lukis 4 years ago

Reasonable line, but not great. The top out was fun.

Terry Svingen 10 years ago

onsight solo

2 Dishonour Before Death
13
Trad 10m
3 Flatliner
17
Trad 15m
Lynley Murtagh 6 years ago

2nd Bernie Excellent

Lee Cujes 14 years ago

FFA onsight

4 Silver Lining
16
Trad 15m
Ashley Moore 6 years ago

w/ Richie.

Lee Cujes 14 years ago

The freeing of an old TR route. A bit scary.

5 Hard Core
18
Trad 15m
Dan Lukis 5 years ago

With Eddie.... fell trying to get around the roof (crux?). Will try again another time to get it...

Martin Gotthard 7 years ago

Had a lot of fun on this one. Nice moves.

6 Tree Line
15
Trad 20m
Lewis Templar 5 months ago

I was third up the wall on trad so I top roped it. I tried a lot of the trickier moves to be foun...

Rob Medlicott 5 months ago

I lead this but wandered a little to find pro so may not have been on route the whole time??

7 Side Line
9
Trad 20m
Lewis Templar 5 months ago

A little bit thinner for gear than Walk the Line, but still a bomber route. Good beginners trad.

Greg Zadro 5 years ago

Enjoyed very much

8 Walk The Line
8
Trad 20m
Scott Godwin 12 weeks ago

Climbed it after Laura to check out the gear possibilities. I disagree about this being a great b...

PattyD 12 weeks ago

Warm up for the arms.

9 Main Line
10
Trad 20m
Trent Williams 7 years ago

Same climb as CGA. These climbs are derived. If you climb straight up you still use holds on WL a...

Julian 8 years ago

Fun climb, audience awaits at top.

10 Cee Gee Also
7
Trad 20m
Bernie Walsh 6 years ago

nicest climb of the day

Trent Williams 7 years ago

Same climb as ML. These climbs are derived. If you climb straight up you still use holds on WL an...

11 Cold Girl
8
Trad 20m
PattyD 4 months ago

Distinctly without ledges that usually mare easy climbs in the glasshouse. Fun climb, plenty of g...

Dan Lukis 4 years ago

Not too bad, a couple of good moves.

12 Air Line
12
Trad 20m
PattyD 12 weeks ago

Warm up for the head.

PattyD 4 months ago

Slightly awkward down low then jugs to the top!

13 Fine Line
11
Trad 20m
14 Denim
12
Trad 20m
Joanna Parker 6 years ago

Pretty ordinary. Gear a bit sparse. Belayed in a swarm of flying ants.

Matt Boulton 7 years ago

Fairly well protected

15 Angie Too
10
Trad 20m
16 A
13
Trad 20m
Bernie Walsh 6 years ago

2nd Lisa on the non chimney variant

Martin Gotthard 7 years ago

Nice.

17 Funky Bass Line
16
Trad 20m
Martin Gotthard 7 years ago

Not bad for a first effort away from KP.

Stuart Sheppard 7 years ago

first time slinging anything other than a bollard at KP_

18 Ballsup
11
Trad 20m
Dan Lukis 5 years ago

Not too bad, was a bit wet above the rooflet.

19 Bee Line
7
Trad 20m
Trent Williams 7 years ago

Onsight. Andy Lead

annette miller 11 years ago

Not bad

20 Next In Line
7
Trad 20m
21 Centre Line
9
Trad 20m
Dan Lukis 4 years ago

A few suspect holds, otherwise ok.

Dave 9 years ago

loose block here, watch out!

22 Plumb Line
8
Trad 20m
Dan Lukis 4 years ago

I really enjoyed this one, had a pause to soak up the exposure... lots of jugs.

Joanna Parker 6 years ago

Dreadful gear.

23 Left Right Out
5
Trad 23m
Dan Lukis 4 years ago

Rubbish really, could be a first lead but theres better routes around, lots of friable rock.

Joanna Parker 6 years ago

Getting back on the horse...

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Alchemist Unknown 60m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Left Right Out Trad 23m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
6 Keyhole Unknown 44m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
7 Bee Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Cee Gee Also Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Next In Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
8 Cold Girl Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Plumb Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Walk The Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
9 Centre Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Side Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
10 Angie Too Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Main Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Razor Sedge Trad 10m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
11 Ballsup Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Fine Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
12 Sticky Fingers Unknown 18m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Air Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Denim Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
13 Angie Unknown 18m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Deep Purple Trad 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
A Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Dishonour Before Death Trad 10m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
14 Leaning Tower Unknown 27m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Ultra Violet Catastrophe Unknown 23m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
15 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters Unknown 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy Unknown 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Feeling Groovy VF Unknown 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gyroscope Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Icehouse Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Rubber Soul Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Tree Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
16 ** CUFA Unknown 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Carmen Revisited Unknown 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Classical Gas Trad 27m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Hex Heaven Unknown 50m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stand To Unknown 40m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Tower Of Power Unknown 20m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Funky Bass Line Trad 20m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
Silver Lining Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
17 Bourgeois Bullshitter Unknown 30m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Cantankerous Cantelope Unknown 35m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Carpe Jugular Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Ensorcelled Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Fallen Knight Unknown 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Gone Cruisin' Unknown 30m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Heartache Unknown 38m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite Sport 12m , 5 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Previous Commitment Unknown 42m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Stop The Bus Unknown 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Flatliner Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
18 * Bloodsucker Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Marathon Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Not Recommended For Children Unknown 35m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
** Visions Of A Transmitter Trad 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
*** Visions Of A Transmitter DF Unknown 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
Hard Core Trad 15m 1.2. Nursery Cliff
19 Baby Driver Unknown 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
20 Six Sided Hell Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
21 Speed King Unknown 45m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
* Witch Hunt Unknown 15m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
22 Strawberry Fields Unknown 25m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff
24 ** Feargrounds For Insanity Unknown 20m 1.1. The Upper Main Cliff