Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

A 60m wide section of east facing cliffline bounded on either side by large facing corners - The Sentinels. There may be scope for further easy sport routes.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

The Sentinels are situated awa from the main Mt Ngungun areas so a different access road is used. After crossing the railway line in the Glass House Mountains twonship, turn right into Coonowrin Road at the T-junction. Follow this around left into Railway Parade, then turn left onto Sahara Road and follow this. A large chocolate brown slab is visible high on the hill. This is 'The Hidden Slabs'. However, 'The Sentinels' is the white section of cliff partly visible through the trees to the left of 'The Hidden Slabs', above the old quarry. At 1.4 km along Sahara Road, turn left into Springburn Drive, then take a quick right on to Stonehaven Lane and follow this to the top. Turn left and drive up to the quarry fence to park. Follow the fence rightwards and then follow a vague track up through the scrub to locate 'The Sentinels'.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route

Climbs are listed from R to L.

1
17 Groove Armada Trad 25m

Start 10m L of the R Sentinel and 6m R of the biggest tree. Up the groove past a couple of trees to short but steep wall. Fill the crack with good gear, the strenuously up on pockets, running it out to finish at the bizarre, U-shaped tree. A confident leader is required, as a fall near the top would cause you to break.

FA: Lee Cujes & Took Smits, 2000

2
8 Butterfree Trad 20m

Start on the clean, low angle slab in the middle of the wall between the Sentinels and 8m left of the biggest tree. Good rock. Up seam into small L facing corner at half height. Continue straight up to rap off the largest tree on the ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

3
7 Caterpie Trad 20m

Start 2m L and immediately R of gully. Up onto small ledge, then into crack with bomber gear to bulge. Either through bulge, or to avoid loose blocks, traverse R and finish up 'Butterfree'. Rap off tree.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

4
22 * Srama Sport 8m, 3

Start about 15m L of 'Caterpie' in the gully just right of the left Sentinel. Religious exertion. Sporty pockets and huecos up an overhanging wall. Scrable up the gully and lean across to clip BR. Pull on and launch into the sequence passing 2 FH's to finish at double rings. It originally topped out but that wasn't true to the spirit of sport climbing.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2000

5
12 My Little Sphinx Trad 8m

Start 15m L of 'Srama'. The cracky weakness up the middle of the left most piece of climbable wall. Meow!

FA: Erik Smits & Philippa Newton, 2000

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Sentinels.